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https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/

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Discover gardening made easy. Whether you are a new gardener or an experienced one, we can help you learn new hings and grow your garden. Plus, if you have a gardening question, one of our helpful and friendly gardening experts can help answer it. Happy ardening! Ask a gardening question, get a gardening answer.

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Gardening and Seed Saving Resources - Seed Savers Exchange

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Learn about growing heirlooms from seed in your garden with vegetable growing guides, helpful hints, and advice on saving seeds.

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From our friends at Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds

https://www.rareseeds.com/growing-guide

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GROW THE BAKER CREEK WAY

Each and every year the garden presents a new set of challenges. Baker Creek is here to help from seed to harvest! Our garden experts have put together a brief growing guide to help you have a succesful season. Lets get Planting!
JUMP TO VARIETY: Amaranth
About/History/Special Notes--Amaranth was a staple crop of the Ancient Aztecs who cultivated it for sustenance and considered it a sacred crop. Statues made of amaranth seed and honey were worshiped, broken apart and eaten at religious ceremonies. Conquistadors attempting to dismantle Aztec culture banned the cultivation of Amaranth threatening serious punishment to those who broke the rules and grew the sacred seeds. The seeds could not be totally eradicated as the plants continued to grow wild as weeds. Amaranth eventually resurfaced as an easy-to-grow and protein-rich grain. A truly radical seed! Seed Starting--Amaranth is a warm weather crop that needs soil temperatures of 65-75 degrees to germinate. Surface sow seeds directly in the garden and cover with a very fine layer of soil. Thin seedlings to 18 inches apart. Growing--Amaranth is easy to grow. The plants grow best in moist, well drained soil, but they will tolerate poor soil quality and drought. Amaranth thrives in full sun and will grow to be 5 to 8 feet tall in ideal conditions. Can be planted in rows or used as a natural trellis for beans or used in place of corn in a three sisters garden. Pests/Special Considerations--Keep up with weeding around young seedlings. Once plants become well established, they will be able to out compete weeds. Flea beetles can be a nuisance to amaranth when seedlings are young and tender; try covering seedlings with floating row cover until plants have reached 2 feet tall and can better handle insect damage. Diatomaceous Earth or Kaolin clay can also be applied for extreme flea beetle infestations. Harvest--The young leaves make an excellent spinach substitute and are highly nutritious; pick individual leaves off to allow the plant to continue to grow. The seeds are high in protein and delicious and can be stored for later use. It is time to harvest when you can gently shake seeds off of the flower stalk. You may notice small birds starting to harvest your seeds; this is a good indicator that it is time! Cut entire flower stalk down when plants have matured; place in a large bag and shake vigorously to remove seeds. You can also place a colander on top of a bowl and massage the flower heads until the seeds drop; gently shake the seeds back and forth while blowing the light-weight plant pieces away from you. This leaves only the seeds and removes all of the unwanted plant pieces. Seed Saving-Amaranth is pollinated by the wind; different varieties should be 1000 feet away from other types in order to avoid cross pollination. Also, keep related plants like celosia, cockscomb, lambsquarter and pigweed away to avoid cross pollination. Amaranth seeds remain viable 5-7 years after harvest. Purchase Heirloom Amaranth Seeds HERE

Beans
About/History/Special Notes--It is no wonder we have considered this a staple crop for thousands of years; beans are high in protein and inexpensive to produce. Ancient Native Americans grew beans along with corn and squash in their famous 3 sisters gardens. Other bean relatives have been cultivated all around the world for thousands of years. Dry beans have been found in ancient Egyptian and Aztec tombs. Ancient Asian cultures have cultivated soybeans for over 4,000 years. Seed Starting--Beans are very easy to germinate. Keep in mind that they must have warm weather in order to germinate; cool weather will cause beans to rot in the soil. Direct seed or sow indoors; soil must be above 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Sow seeds 1 inch deep and 2-4 inches apart. Keep seedlings moist but not soaked. Growing-- Bush green beans do not need support and should be thinned to 4 inches apart. Continuously pick to keep plants productive. Pole green beans will need support. Try growing them up a fence or constructing a trellis. Thin pole beans to 6 inches apart. Dry beans are grown just like green beans. They can be harvested when immature and used like green beans or left on the vine to dry. Long beans are the best choice for hot climates; they can handle extreme heat. Most varieties need a trellis and should be harvested when beans reach 12-18 inches long. Soy beans are grown just like green beans and can be harvested when pods reach 2-3 inches long or have completely dried. Important note: Soybeans should not be eaten raw! Dried soybeans mature all at once. Fava Beans are different from most other beans because they prefer cool temperatures; a long, cool season is best. Sow fava beans as soon as the soil can be worked in the spring. They do not like temperatures over 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Pests/Special Considerations--Use drip irrigation to keep leaves dry and disease free. The Mexican Bean Beetle can be a difficult insect pest. Apply organic insecticidal soap to the undersides of leaves to control the eggs. Harvest--Continually harvest fresh eating beans to keep plants productive. Dry beans should be left on the plant until frost causes all of the leaves to fall off of the plant; pull entire plant and shake well in a large bag to release the beans from their pods. Seed Saving--Perhaps the best seed saving project for beginners, beans do not easily cross pollinate and can be grown close to one another. Save seeds from the best looking, best tasting, and most vigorous beans. Store in a cool, dry place for the winter. A glass jar in the refrigerator works well. Purchase Heirloom Bean Seeds HERE

Broccoli
About/History/Special Notes--A cabbage relative grown for its unopened flower buds, broccoli is a Mediterranean native that thrives in cool (not cold) weather. Prior to the turn of the century, purple broccoli was more common than green. History--Descended from wild cabbage native to the Mediterranean coast, broccoli was bred by the ancient Etruscans. Although Jefferson grew it at Monticello, broccoli would not become commercially grown in the U.S. until the 1920s. Seed Starting--Sow seeds indoors about 4-6 weeks before last frost. Sow seeds ½ inch deep in trays filled with good quality potting mix. Germinate at about 75 degrees; seeds will germinate in 8-10 days. You can also direct seed 2-3 weeks before last frost. Growing--Remember that broccoli does not like extreme heat or cold; plants grow best between 65 and 80 degrees. Transplant out into garden or thin to 1-2 feet apart. Avoid deeply cultivating near plants as they have shallow roots; try instead a thick layer of mulch to retain moisture and suppress weeds. Keep plants moist, as plants do not tolerate drought. You can plant a fall crop of broccoli in most regions of the U.S. Sow 80-100 days before first fall frost date. Pests/Special Considerations--Broccoli, like other cabbage relatives, is very susceptible to cabbage worm, cabbage loopers and diamondback moths. To keep the pests at bay, you can apply BTK (Bacillius Thurengiensis var. Kurstaki) a naturally occurring bacteria that is organic-approved every 1-2 weeks. Purchase beneficial wasps and release in the garden to keep the population down. Interplant thyme with your plants; cabbage worms hate the smell! Harvesting--When heads are firm and 3-4 inches across, use a sharp knife to cut stalks. Cut main stalk and leave the plant intact to encourage the growth of side shoots (smaller heads that will grow after the main stalk has been harvested). Seed Saving- Broccoli is considered a more challenging crop for seed saving, not to say that it can't be successfully done by beginners. Broccoli is a biennial and will not flower until its second year of growth. For those with mild winters, it is easy to keep broccoli alive over winter. Northerners will need to get creative; established broccoli is not tolerant of tempatures below 20 degrees. Purchase Heirloom Broccoli Seeds HERE

Celery & Celeriac
About/History/Special Notes--Woven garlands of celery were found in Egyptian tombs. Celery was considered a holy plant during classical times in Greece. Celery stalks were used in ancient Ayurvedic medicine to treat colds and flu. Celeriac is a European favorite that is especially loved by the French. These two crops are both the same species and originated in the Mediterranean basin. Celery was selected for succulent stalks, while celeriac was selected for a large sweet root. Celery and celeriac are related to carrots and parsnips. Seed Starting--Celery and Celeriac are long-season crops, needing to be sown late winter/early spring and harvested in the fall. Sow celery and celeriac seeds 10-12 weeks before the last frost. Celery likes moisture from sprout to harvest. Keeping consistent moisture throughout the growing cycle will aid in achieving upright, large stalks. Celeriac can handle extreme temperatures a little better and can survive some mild frosts. Growing--Before planting celery, it is highly recommended to add plenty of well-composted manure to the bed. Some growers will dig a trench in celery rows to retain moisture during times of drought. When stalks begin to splay out, loosely tie them together to keep upright and off the ground. Plant celery 2 feet apart. Celeriac can be planted closer together, about 8-12 inches apart. Keep celeriac moist and plant in a rich bed heavy with organic matter for good root growth. In zones 7 and higher, celeriac can be planted in summer for a winter and spring harvest. Harvest/Storage--If you cut about 1-2 inches above the base of celery, new stalks will eventually grow in its place. Celery can be chopped and stored in freezer bags for future use. Celeriac should be pulled after a light frost to allow the root to sweeten up. Celeriac can also be stored in a root cellar, uncleaned, for a few months. Seed Saving--Celery and celeriac are insect-pollinated and should be isolated by 1 mile from each other to ensure seed purity. Both plants are biennial and must either be dug and stored or be left in the ground to overwinter and flower the following spring. Harvest the flowers when they have completely dried on the plant. Celery and celeriac seeds will last for 5 years or more when stored properly. Purchase Heirloom Celery and Celeriac Seeds HERE

Cucumbers
History--Botanists believe that cucumbers are descended from a wild cucurbit native to the Himalayas. Cucumbers are believed to have been cultivated in Asia since about 1000 BC. Cleopatra is said to have credited her beauty to a steady diet of pickled cucumbers. Seed Starting--Direct seed cucumbers when soil has warmed to at least 65 degrees, or 2 weeks after the last spring frost. Create one-foot mounds about 2.5 feet apart; plant 5 seeds in each mound. Once plants are 3-4 inches tall, thin to one in each mound, leaving the strongest plant. For an early crop start indoors 1 week before last frost date; transplant out when plants are 3 weeks old. Cucumbers that remain in pots longer than 3 weeks become stunted and will grow slowly! Growing--The 1856 Comstock Ferre & Co farmers almanac recommends hog manure and wood ash as the perfect amendments to the cucumber bed. Trellis cukes to save space and make weeding, mulching and harvesting easier. Cucumbers will peak quickly and die off. It is best to succession plant cucumbers every 2 weeks until late summer. Radishes are a great companion plant for cucumbers. A layer of mulch will retain moisture and suppress weeds. Pests/Special Considerations--Cucumbers produce both male and female flowers, but only female flowers produce fruit. At the beginning of the flowering stage, mostly male flowers will appear; you will have to be patient until the females start to flower and fruit. Rain or cold temperatures can inhibit pollination, which is necessary for fruiting. Pollination will resume when weather improves. Cucumber beetle is a pest common throughout the U.S. Often the beetles will chew small cucumber seedlings to the ground or damage the vines. Covering plants with a floating row cover when young will help, although you need to remove the cover when pollination time arrives. Interplant tansy and nasturtiums to repel the pests. Harvest--Cucumbers for pickling should be harvested when small and spiny for crunchier pickles. Slicing cucumbers should be picked when smooth, before skin has turned yellow. Waiting too long will result in seedy cucumbers. Seed Saving--It is very simple to save cucumber seeds. They are annual, so they will set fruit and produce seed in the first season. Cucumbers rely upon insects to pollinate their flowers; for this reason it is best to isolate each variety by 1⁄2 to 1 mile from other varieties to avoid cross pollination. For those gardeners in more densely populated areas with neighboring cucumbers threatening to cross pollinate, caging can help to ensure pure seed, although it will require hand pollination. Another reason why cucumbers are considered easy to save seed is that there are both male and female flowers on each plant. They can pollinate one another without greatly degrading the vigor of the seed stock. (Many other plants need to pollinate flowers from a separate plant). Just a few plants will produce lots of healthy seeds. Properly saved seeds should store for up to 10 years. Purchase Heirloom Cucumber Seeds HERE

Kale and Collards
Kale and collards are cold-tolerant, easy to grow and highly nutritious. Collards and kale are very closely related; they are both members of the brassica family, along with broccoli, cabbage, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower and kohlrabi. History--Kale and collards, a.k.a the non-heading cabbages, are believed to be more similar to the original wild cabbage ancestor than more refined brassicas like caulifower and Brussels sprouts. Kale and collards originally hail from the eastern Mediterranean, as well as Asia Minor. The ancient Romans were responsible for dispersing kale and collards to Europe where they were quickly embraced as a cold loving crop perfectly suited to the Northern European climate. Seed Starting--In the spring, sow seeds 8-10 weeks before last fall frost. For fall harvest, sow seeds directly from July-September for a late fall crop that will taste super sweet after a bit of frost exposure. Kale and collards require good moisture and full sun. Set plants out or thin to 12- 18 inches apart. Growing--These primitive cabbage relatives are considered a perfect beginner gardener's crop; they require very little care to thrive. Both crops can tolerate an impressive amount of cool weather. Collards, being a southern staple, are also heat tolerant. For mild climates, both crops can be grown year round, perhaps with a lull in the punishing heat of summer. In cooler climates, kale and collards are considered some of the best crops for season extension; with a bit of protection, they can be grown late into the fall. Pests/Special Considerations--In some areas cabbage worms will wreak havoc on all cabbage relatives; try a homemade garlic and hot pepper spray to discourage these pests from munching your plants. Seed Saving--Like all cabbage family members, kale and collards are biennial. Kale and collards are insect pollinated and will cross with some closely related cabbage family members; it is wise to isolate varieties at least a mile apart to ensure pure seed. Other techniques such as alternate day caging can be used if isolation is not possible. You will need to overwinter plants to harvest seeds. You can mulch plants heavily with straw or cover with row cover and greenhouse plastic in an attempt to nurse plants through the winter. You can also dig up plants and store inside to replant in spring. When the flower spikes emerge in the second year, let the seed pods dry to brown and cut o the entire flower spike. Hang flower stalk upside down over a tarp indoors to allow the seeds to drop onto the tarp. Seeds will remain viable for up to 4 years. Purchase Heirloom Kale Seeds HERE Purchase Heirloom Collards Seeds HERE

Melon
Melons range widely in appearance, climatic requirements and flavor. They are all members of the cucumber family, cucurbitaceae. For those growers with a short growing season, look for short-season varieties like Minnesota Midget. If you are interested in an ornamental variety for a unique display, try a vibrantly striped variety like Tigger. There are many unusual, long-season varieties like the Snake Gourd or the Cassabanana Melocoton for those adventurous gardeners who like a fun challenge. History--Melons are believed to have originated in the Middle East and Central Asia. This comes as no surprise, considering the staggering number of varieties of melon still cultivated in Asia, which is in the thousands! Early melon fruits averaged no larger than an orange, but they have been bred for size over the years. Today there are gargantuan varieties, such as the banana melon. Melons spread from Iran to Egypt, where the fruit has been referenced back to 2400 B.C. Ancient Romans spread the fruit to the Mediterranean. How to Grow--The climatic growing requirements can vary greatly in this diverse family of fruit; however, all melons are known for their love of sandy loam soil. Choose the best variety for your season length. Melons are very frost sensitive, so be sure to plant once the soil has warmed and the nighttime low has reached above 50 degrees. Melons grow best when direct seeded, but it is advisable for those folks with a very short growing season to start plants indoors. Just be careful to not leave plants in pots longer than 3 weeks; cucurbits hate becoming root bound! Plant seeds or thin seedlings to 2 feet apart with rows six feet apart; these vines love to sprawl! Pests/Special Considerations--Weeding around the vines without damaging the plants can be nearly impossible; for this reason most growers mulch around plants with straw. Black plastic mulch will suppress weeds and warm soil for those growers in northern climates. Do not overwater melons; they do not like wet feet. Instead, just water when the soil becomes dry. Related to cucumbers and squash, melons have the same insect pest issues. Seed Saving--Melons are insect pollinated and will readily cross with other melon varieties; they will not, however, cross with their close relatives, watermelon or cucumbers. To ensure pure seed, isolate different melon varieties by 1⁄2 mile or try caging and hand pollinating. Harvest seeds by cutting ripe fruit in half and scooping the seeds into a large bucket; add water until the seeds and pulp are just covered. Allow this to ferment for 2-3 days; be sure to stir the mixture daily. After the seeds have fermented, add water, stir and pour off the pulp. Good seeds sink to the bottom; discard the nonviable, floating seeds. Continue to change fresh water and skim the rotten pulp off the seeds until water runs clear and good clean seeds are left. Spread clean seeds out on a piece of cardboard for 12-15 days to allow to dry. Store in a jar in a cool, dry location; seeds will remain viable for up to 5 years if stored this way. Purchase Heirloom Melon Seeds HERE

Salsify
This bizarre-looking relative of the sunflower family is also known as goat's beard and oyster plant. Popular during the Victorian era, the strange, hairy roots have a unique taste, which some liken to that of an oyster; others consider the flavor akin to parsnips mixed with artichoke. Salsify has been regaining popularity among chefs and culinary enthusiasts in America, who have breathed life back into this mysterious crop from yesteryear. History--This scraggly root is native to the Mediterranean. It was originally foraged by the ancient Romans and Greeks until the 1500s when people began to cultivate it. It was introduced to the Americas in the 1700s, where it remained a popular root crop due to its great keeping quality. Salsify was grown by Thomas Jefferson at Monticello and was included in the Joy of Cooking in the 1930s. With the advent of modern refrigeration and the availability of perishable foods out of season, this useful root crop fell out of favor. Seed Starting--Sow seeds directly into the soil one half inch deep and 1 inch apart just following the final spring frost, Seeds take up to 3 weeks to germinate but usually pop in the first week. How to Grow--This is a long-season crop that is sown in the spring to harvest in fall. Be sure to prepare a slightly alkaline bed for these roots which prefer a pH of 7 or above. If you have more acidic soil, you can lime the bed several months before planting to raise the pH. Thin plants to 2-4 inches apart and mulch with straw. Pests/Special Considerations--Weeds are the biggest threat to a productive salsify crop. Salsify is a slow grower and can become quickly overtaken by competitors; be sure to keep up with hand weeding. Consistent moisture will keep roots from becoming tough. Avoid excessive heat by planting in part shade; flavor and texture will suffer in temperatures above 85 degrees. Seed Saving--Salsify is a biennial and will send up pretty, daisy-like flowers in its second year. In most regions a heavy layer of mulch will work to keep plants alive until the second season for seed production. For those areas that experience hard freeze, dig roots, cut tops to 3 inches in length and store in a root cellar in sawdust. Replant in spring. Pick dried seed heads as they mature. Dry out of direct sunlight for a few days. Salsify seed will remain viable for up to 4 years. Purchase Heirloom Salsify Seeds HERE

Spinach
Spinach is a leafy green vegetable that grows best in cool weather. True spinach is very cold tolerant, one of the first crops planted at winter's end, and one of the last in early fall. History--Spinach comes from central and southwestern Asia where it may have originated from Spinacia tetranda, which is still gathered as a wild edible green in Anatolia. Spinach was unknown to the ancient Mediterranean world. The first references to spinach are from Sasanian Persia (about 226-640 A.D.), and in 647 it was taken from Nepal to China where it was, and still is, known as the "Persian green." The first written evidence of spinach in the Mediterranean is in three tenth-century works. Spinach became a popular vegetable in the Arab Mediterranean and arrived in Spain by the latter part of the twelfth century. Seed Starting--Spinach, whether true or warm-season substitutes, requires lots of nitrogen and water. It is a fast-growing plant and yields many leaves in a short time in the mild weather of spring and fall. Although it prefers full sun, spinach will still produce a decent harvest in partial shade. Plant about 4 to 6 weeks before the last frost in the spring, and again 6 to 8 weeks before the first frost in the fall. Space plants 12 inches apart; this gives leaves room to reach full size. Growing--In zone 6 and above, leaves can sometimes be harvested all winter long. Farther north, it may be possible with row cover or high tunnels. We offer some warm-weather spinach substitutes, as well, and these are quite the opposite: they yield abundant greens in summer's heat, when growing true spinach would be out of the question. Pests/Special Considerations- Several fungal diseases, like downy mildew (blue mold) and fusarium wilt, can become problems. Space your spinach plants so they get good air circulation, and try to keep water off the leaves in the evening. Seed Saving--In the spring, plants will grow tall and bloom (called bolting) as soon as the days are longer than 14 hours. Heat also speeds up bolting, since spinach prefers temperatures between 35 and 75 degrees. Commercial spinach seed crop is separated by 5-10 miles. Its pollen is so fine that it easily penetrates mesh screen, but is severely restricted by spun polyester fabric. Plants are either male or female. Maintain a ratio of one male to two female plants, though this is hard to determine until the seed stalks have formed. Close plantings in wide beds will provide the greatest chance that the ratio will be hit. Starting at the bottom of the plants, strip off the seeds (using gloves for the prickly type) in an upward motion, letting them fall into a bag. Allow to completely dry and store. They will retain 50% germination for up to 5 years when stored in ideal conditions. Purchase Heirloom Spinach Seeds HERE

Squash

Squash is a beautiful and tremendously important crop. Many winter types will store in cool, dry conditions for up to 1 year when cured properly. The small, quick-growing forms that are eaten before the rinds and seeds begin to harden are called summer squash. History--Our word "squash" comes from the Massachuset Indian word askutasquash, meaning "eaten raw or uncooked." Although the Indians may have eaten some forms of squash without cooking, today we like our winter squashes cooked. The Pilgrims considered the winter squash a life-saver during those first few hard winters. Seed Starting--Plant in spring or early summer; harvest in fall before a hard frost. You can direct seed or start squash indoors; just be extra careful not to let plants become pot bound! All cucurbits will not tolerate outgrowing their pots; it will stunt their growth. Sow seeds or put out transplants about one to two weeks after the chance of frost has passed, as these plants absolutely cannot handle frost. Growing--Squash plants like rich, well-drained soil and plenty of sun. If you do not have a lot of space in your garden, be sure to choose bush type squash varieties; otherwise you will have a trailing vine that may crowd other plants. There is a major bonus to growing vine types, however: Squash vine borer has a much more difficult time killing them than bush types. Sow seeds one foot apart in rows, and rows should be six to ten feet apart if vining types are grown. When plants get to be about 6 inches tall, you can thin to two to three feet apart in the rows. It can be very tricky not to disturb delicate vines if you have to weed around mature plants, so weed often when plants are young. As they get older, their massive leaves will help reduce weeds. Winter squash are left on the vine to harden and have a long storage life. Pests/Special Considerations--The primary pests found are squash beetles and vine borers. We take a multi-step approach to combatting the issue. Aside from crop rotation, we delay planting until after the squash bug season has peaked in late June, and we spray with pyrethrum and neem oil Seed Saving-There are four different species of squash: Cucurbita maxima, C. Pepo, C. moschata, and C. mixta. These will not cross pollinate with each other. Therefore, it is possible to grow one of each species for seed saving and not have to worry about cross pollination. If you are planning to grow several varieties of more than one species, you can bag the blossoms and hand pollinate to avoid crossing. Whether it is a summer or winter squash, you must let the fruit completely mature before extracting the seeds. You will want to cure the squash for at least two weeks as well. Scoop the seeds, place in bucket, and add just enough water to cover. Let sit at room temperature for 2 days before rinsing off the pulp. Lay seeds out to dry on newspaper or paper plate. Seeds will remain viable for up to 4 years. Purchase Heirloom Squash Seeds HERE

Sweet Potato
Sweet potatoes are a delicious and nutritious member of the morning glory family. The roots of this cold-sensitive vining plant become massive and swollen, full of starch and delicious. Plants are heat tolerant as well as fairly drought tolerant and uafflicted by insect pests, making them a super reliable crop. History--Sweet potatoes are native to Latin America, exactly where is up for debate. Spanish conquistadors brought tubers back to Europe where they were embraced and quickly spread throughout the east. Growing--Sweet potatoes are not grown from seed but from live plants. Set plants outdoors after all chance of frost has passed in spring. Sweet potatoes are a long-season crop, and black plastic mulch to warm the soil in northern climates can be helpful. Set plants 12-18 inches apart in beds that are mulched with either plastic mulch or a thick layer of straw mulch. It is so important not to skip this step; the vines will become out of control quickly if not weeded. The mulch will also warm the soil and retain moisture. Harvesting and Storage--The tubers can be dug and eaten at any time once they are large enough; however, a nip of frost will sweeten them up and allegedly increases the vitamin content of the roots. Wait until the vines have yellowed or blackened from frost. Harvest as soon as vines begin to blacken, as the roots will rot very quickly after leaves turn black. Dig with a spade, then leave the fresh tubers out in the sun to dry for the afternoon. Next you will want to cure the sweet potatoes to ensure good storage quality and reportedly a better taste than uncured roots. The best way to cure is to place dry roots in a box lined with newspaper in a warm room at about 85-90 degrees. The humidity should be at around 85 percent. Let roots cure for about 10 days. After curing they can be kept for months in a root cellar at about 55-60 degrees. Purchase Heirloom Sweet Potato Live Plants HERE

Tomatillo
Also called "husk tomato," for the paper-like calyx or husk that encloses each fruit. They are grown much like tomatoes, except that they are seldom staked. They do tend to grow a bit faster from seed than most tomatoes and are a little more tolerant to cold weather. Tomatillos are used in fresh salsas and cooked in any number of sauces, including Mexican-style chili verde. History-Native to Mexico and domesticated by the Aztecs around 800 B.C., tomatillos played an important part in the culture of the Maya and the Aztecs, and was more important than the tomato. Seed Starting- (see tomato) Growing--Grown much like a tomato, but it is a lighter feeder. In order for the tomatillo flowers to set fruit, you must grow at least two tomatillo plants. They are incredibly prolific and fruit nonstop until killed by frost. They are moderately drought tolerant but do best with an inch or so of water a week. Pests/Special Considerations--Flea beetles are a common tomatillo pest. Trap plants, such as bok choi, horse nettle, and datura will take on a good bit of the flea beetle damage for you, but be sure to manage their seeds carefully. Some people also use sticky traps. Seed Saving--Fermentation is not necessary. Allow to ripen for a week or longer after picking, remove the husks, and select the ripest for seed. According to Seed to Seed by Suzanne Ashworth, the paper husks are removed and the berries are placed in a blender or food processor with enough water to cover them. When the fruits are totally blended, empty the contents into a large bowl. Add enough water to double the mixture; stir vigorously, and allow the good seeds to settle to the bottom. Gently pour off the debris and hollow seeds. Add more water and repeat the process until only clean seeds and water remain. The clean seeds are poured into a strainer, but always be sure the seeds are not small enough to pass through the strainer's holes. Wipe the bottom of the strainer on a towel to remove as much moisture as possible and dump the seeds onto a glass or ceramic dish to dry. They will remain viable for three years when stored in a cool, dry, dark place. Purchase Heirloom Tomatillo Seeds HERE

Turnip & Rutabagas
Turnips and Rutabagas (Swedes) are closely related cabbage family members. Turnips have a great pungent bite to them and are roughly the size of a baseball. Rutabagas are set apart by being larger and sweeter. These large root veggies are also used as a fodder crop for animals. They are a popular root crop in Europe. In Scotland, they are referred to as neeps and are served with haggis. History--The turnip was cultivated by the ancient Romans and brought to the Americas in the 16th century by a French explorer. Rutabagas are believed to have originated in Russia. They were first mentioned by a Swiss botanist who observed them growing wild in Sweden in the 1600s. Although they are a popular vegetable in Europe, they are not as cherished in Germany. This is because rutabaga stew, consisting of just water and rutabagas, was a staple during the food shortages of World War I and World War II. Seed Starting--Turnips and rutabagas like rich, well worked soil, so try double digging to ensure a fluffy root zone. Sow seeds 90 days before first frost date for rutabagas, and 50-60 days before first frost for turnips. Thin plants to about 8-12 inches apart. Keep plants moist and well weeded. Growing--Turnips and rutabagas are mostly grown the same way, the only difference being that turnips are harvested earlier than rutabagas. Rutabagas are a long-season crop, requiring 90-120 days. Both are cold-tolerant and taste best when harvested in late fall. Pests/Special Considerations--Both plants are are insect-pollinated, so they will need ¼ mile spacing from other varieties to ensure pure seeds. (Turnips cross with other turnips but not with rutabagas.) Flea beetles, leaf miners and the cabbage maggot can be controlled in spring crops with row covers. Cover at seeding and seal the edges with soil to exclude the cabbage maggot fly. Seed Saving--Like other cabbage family members, these crops are usually biennial, which means they flower in the second year. You will need to either overwinter plants with mulch or row cover, or dig the roots up and replant in the early spring. Digging is preferred because it allows you to select only the largest, choicest roots for seed production. Cut flower stalks when pods have dried, place into a bag and shake seeds loose. Seeds will store for 5 years. Purchase Heirloom Turnip Seeds HERE Purchase Heirloom Rutabaga Seeds HERE

Herbs
Many people have depended on herbs for medicine, nutrition, or to spice their foods. Many of the herbs humans have come to love are hardy, drought and poor soil tolerant, and grow without much help from us. History--Like flowers, herb history is intertwined with religious significance. Herbs were credited with bringing luck or blessings, and even warding off evil. Herbs are mentioned in the oldest holy and medical books. Awareness of herbs for medicine is making a come-back, and many of our popular culinary herbs and spices are just as useful for medicine or nutrition. Some herbs are also great as companion plants in the garden, attract pollinators, act as trap plants, and can repel unwanted pests. Growing--Many culinary, yet medicinal herbs, like sage, oregano, thyme, rosemary, flowering carrot, yarrow, sorrel, cilantro, lemon balm, purslane, monarda, evening primrose etc., are incredibly easy to grow, and just disturbed ground is enough to get a large number of them going. Herbs, like basil, oregano, rosemary, lemongrass and thyme are also great for container gardening. Many herbs grow like weeds and do very well in garden edges and walkways. Basil is a tender and aromatic herb that grows wild in West Africa and is loved by home gardeners. Though it will do well sown directly in the garden after fear of frost, you can also start herbs like basil indoors 4-6 weeks before the last frost in rich, well draining soil between 70-90 degrees. Other herbs that can be grown like basil are lemon balm, lovage, sorrel, and thyme. Oregano was first used by the Greeks, and the name is derived from the Greek phrase, "Joy of the Mountain". Herbs like oregano can be started indoors 8-10 weeks before the last frost in poor, but light and well draining soil. It can take 10-14 days to germinate and needs warm conditions. It likes to be watered and heated from the bottom of the pot. Other herbs that can be grown like oregano are chamomile, parsley, rosemary, rue, sage and even thyme can also tolerate poor soils. For some popular herbs like lemongrass, start indoors in rich soil and place the seeds about 1" apart. Lightly cover with starting soil and gently water. Wrap the seed tray in clear plastic and keep at 70-75 degrees. Mist or gently water daily; remove plastic wrap when the seeds sprout, and place in full sun. Water once every three days. Transplant outdoors after fear of frost, when they are about 12" tall. Stevia can be started in a similar manner but does best with temps not much over 70 degrees. Stevia is also planted out after fear of last frost, and when it has a good bit of foliage. Dill does not do well being transplanted and prefers to be directly sown outdoors after the danger of frost. Plant in full sun and well draining soil for the best results. Other herbs that do best started directly outdoors are chervil, coriander, lavender, mints, tarragon. Many other herbs, even some mentioned above, will do just fine direct-sown in the garden. There are a huge variety of perennials or easy self-seeders in the herbal family. Most like full sun, but some will tolerate partial shade. Some perennial herbs are anise, chives, coneflower, dock, echinacea, evening primrose, fennel, dandelion, horehound, hyssop, lavender, lemongrass, oregano, sage, mallow, rosemary, sorrel, tarragon, thyme, valerian and yarrow. Uses--Besides their use in cooking, herbs have been in liquid herbal products (infusions, decoctions, and teas), or infused in oil, vinegar, or alcohol. These menstruums were used to preserve the herb harvest, and it also made some of the medicinal compounds and minerals found in the herbs easier to digest. Herbs are used to strew on floors and animal bedding to repel bugs, stored with linens, for dyes, and a number of other purposes. Purchase Heirloom Herb Seeds HERE

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We offer over 1350 heirloom varieties, www.rareseeds.com. We only sell open-pollinated seeds: pure, natural & non-GMO! Started in 1998 by Jere Gettle, as a means to preserve heirloom seeds. We are located in Mansfield, Mo. and now in Petaluma, Ca.

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This site has many resources for children and some possibilities for teachers.

https://community.kidsgardening.org/home

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Join a growing community of educators, families, and volunteers bringing the joys of gardening to kids.

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Why save seeds?

https://www.seedsavers.org/why-save-seeds

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People save seeds for lots of different reasons and there is no single right reason to get started saving your own garden seeds.

Save Money

A typical package of 50 pepper seeds costs $3 or more, while transplants can cost $5 each! By growing food from seeds you have saved, you can significantly reduce the cost of producing healthy food.

Preserve Genetic Diversity

Lots of great varieties will never see the fame of a commercial seed catalog. Many of these unique plants only exist in the hands of one or two gardeners. Lend a hand and save some of those seeds that are in danger of disappearing!

Flavor

Ever find the best tasting tomato from a seed catalog one year only to discover you can't buy it anywhere the following year? Seed savers don't have this problem!

Connect With Your Garden

Every seed holds a connection to the future and the past. From 'Grandpa Ott's Morning Glory' that was passed down from Grandpa Ott to our co-founder, Diane, to the rogue tomato plant that you've saved seeds from and will pass on to your children, the stories of seeds connect us to our history, our culture, our family, and our sense of who we are.

Help #SaveTheBees

Insect pollinators perform a $24 billion service each year in the United States alone. And many of these species are in decline. While you wait around for your flowers to produce seeds, they are providing invaluable food for bees, butterflies, and beetles.

Build Community

Seed saving and seed sharing go hand-in-hand. Share with a neighbor, help a community garden become more self-sufficient, or take a new gardener under your wing and teach them how to save their own seeds.

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People save seeds for lots of different reasons and there is no single right reason to get started saving your own garden seeds. A typical package of 50 pepper seeds costs $3 or more, while transplants can cost $5 each! By growing food from seeds you have saved, you can significantly reduce the cost of producing healthy food.