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Yarn and thread whisper stories of the past...

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Yarn and thread whisper stories of the past...

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Over the centuries Bulgarian ebroidery passes on knowledge and love. A recognisable element of our traditional culture and national costumes, it varies from one region to another but bears the same unique symbols and colours.

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The astonishing art - Bulgarian embroidery

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The astonishing art - Bulgarian embroidery

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By Maria Tosheva

The Bulgarian embroidery hides mystic enigmas, containing ancient Bulgarian and antiquity symbols. The placing of the embroidery is not random at all and here is why...

Traditional Bulgarian embroidery is incredibly versatile. There are several types of stitches: straight stitch (horizontal and slanted); cross stitch (or Koumanian); loop stitch, and two-faced stitch. Commonly used materials are woollen and silk threads. Metallic (golden) threads would give a touch of brilliance and magnificence to the embroidery. The designs are primarily geometrical, combined with stylized floral motifs and animal and human figures. The hem embroidered with anthropomorphic figures is typical of the patterns from the town of Samokov. Embroidery from the Sofia region is a symmetrical, elaborate combination of geometrical motifs of ancient origin and meaning. The dense embroidery from South-west Bulgaria, with its typical interplay of red and wine-red hues, is entirely different from the sokai embroidery of the Gabrovo area - open-worked and decorated with gold threads.
The typical colours used in ornamental embroidery designs intended for clothing are red, black, and white. Each of these colours is displayed in a lot of shades and combinations, sometimes clear and brilliant and sometimes dark and harmonious.

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Lilia Ivanova 7A

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Pretty, motley and quite complex, Bulgarian embroidery is one of the highest achievements of traditional culture. Like other Bulgarian crafts, it harbours symbols and meanings, established far back in time.

Most Bulgarian homes have kept to the present day one or two hand-embroidered tablecloths, small mementos from the near past. If we have a good look at them, we will discover stylized figures reminiscent of animate and inanimate nature. The embroidered pictures were a kind of lucky charm, believed to bring good health and inviolability. They revealed the Bulgarian folk beliefs about the world's origin and state of affairs. One of the most common ornaments represented the Tree of Life. Known as the World Tree or the Cosmic Tree, it stands for a three-level vertical representation of our world. The crown symbolizes the Upper World, or the Heavens, the trunk embodies the Earth and the roots stand for the Underworld, the home of demonic forces. The Young Sun or what Bulgarians called The Young Deity was believed to climb down the Tree's branches at a certain time every year to illuminate human life and mark a new beginning. This motif appeared on cardigans and shirts in the entire country.

Once upon a time Bulgarian embroideries revealed the social status and ethnic origin of a person. Festive clothes, especially those of young children and maids, were always hand-embroidered. It comes as an interesting fact that embroideries would be woven on certain areas of the clothes considered to cover vulnerable body parts. So for example, a beautiful young woman would wear embroidered patterns on her skirt, next to the heart and on the sleeves.

By Svetla Elenkova

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Bulgarian Folk Arts and Crafts

Embroidery

Edge of woman's chemise, Doupnitza region,19th century

Edge of woman's chemise, Ihtiman region, 19th century

Sleeve of woman's chemise, detail. Doupnitza region, 19 century

Sleeve of woman's chemise, Sofia region, 19th century

Embroidered belts

The Bulgarian women's embroidering art was noted by many a foreign traveller in the Bulgarian lands during the 16th-19th centuries. The tradition of embroidery was mostly spread among the peasant population and predominantly connected with the decoration of garments. Ornamental needlework involved counting the cloth fibres and, in the case of thin cotton and silk textiles, using an embroidery frame for stretching the material with the pattern being previously drawn on it using a pencil or a stick of charcoal.

Traditional Bulgarian embroidery is characterized by great regional and local diversity. There is a wide variety of flat, raised and open-work stitches. Among those most often applied are several types of stitches: straight stitch (horizontal and slanted); cross stitch (or Koumanian); loop stitch, and two-faced stitch. The high artistic value of the designs is largely due to the skilful selection and treatment of materials. Commonly used are woollen and silk threads. Metallic (golden) threads would give a touch of brilliance and magnificence to the embroidery. The designs are primarily geometrical, combined with stylized floral motifs and animal and human figures.
Colour is of key importance for the ethnic specificity of Bulgarian folk costumes. The typical colours used in ornamental embroidery  designs intended for clothing are red, black, and white. This seemingly narrow range of colours, however, does not represent  the actual situation. Each colour is displayed in a number of shades and combinations, sometimes clear and brilliant, sometimes dark and harmonious, and sometimes deep and contrasting.
By Nadia Rashkova

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Edge of woman's chemise, Doupnitza region,19th century

Edge of woman's chemise, Ihtiman region, 19th century

Sleeve of woman's chemise, detail. Doupnitza region, 19 century

Sleeve of woman's chemise, Sofia region, 19th century

Embroidered belts

The Bulgarian women's embroidering art was noted by many a foreign traveller in the Bulgarian lands during the 16th-19th centuries. The tradition of embroidery was mostly spread among the peasant population and predominantly connected with the decoration of garments. Ornamental needlework involved counting the cloth fibres and, in the case of thin cotton and silk textiles, using an embroidery frame for stretching the material with the pattern being previously drawn on it using a pencil or a stick of charcoal.

Traditional Bulgarian embroidery is characterized by great regional and local diversity. There is a wide variety of flat, raised and open-work stitches. Among those most often applied are several types of stitches: straight stitch (horizontal and slanted); cross stitch (or Koumanian); loop stitch, and two-faced stitch. The high artistic value of the designs is largely due to the skilful selection and treatment of materials. Commonly used are woollen and silk threads. Metallic (golden) threads would give a touch of brilliance and magnificence to the embroidery. The designs are primarily geometrical, combined with stylized floral motifs and animal and human figures. The hem embroidered with anthropomorphic figures is typical of the patterns from the town of Samokov. Embroidery from the Sofia region is a symmetrical, elaborate combination of geometrical motifs of ancient origin and meaning. The dense embroidery from South-west Bulgaria, with its typical interplay of red and wine-red hues, is entirely different from thesokai embroidery of the Gabrovo area - open-worked and decorated with gold threads.

Embroidery ornamentation accounts for much of the specificity and uniqueness of Bulgarian costumes. It is typical of all areas, but mostly spread in North and North-West Bulgaria, and in the region of Macedonia. It is a regular element of men's shirts, women's chemises, aprons, and belts, the soukman andsaya dresses; it is found on the curtains of the two-apron costume. Adornment with embroidery motifs is also characteristic of textiles used for the headdress of married women. Embroidery worked on costumes is varied in technique, structure, pattern, substance, colour and place of application.

Both textile decoration and embroidery are remarkable with their ornamental designs and motifs some of which are rather ancient such as the "tree of life", rosette, swastika, circle, cross. The rhomb is particularly rich in graphic patterns.

Three elements of traditional Bulgarian embroidery: rhythm, symmetry, and contrast, are common throughout the Bulgarian ethnic territory. Compared to the textile ornamentation, embroidery compositions are characterised by even greater variety owing to the specific technique of ornamentation.

Colour is of key importance for the ethnic specificity of Bulgarian folk costumes. The typical colours used in ornamental embroidery designs intended for clothing are red, black, and white. This seemingly narrow range of colours, however, does not represent the actual situation. Each colour is displayed in a number of shades and combinations, sometimes clear and brilliant, sometimes dark and harmonious, and sometimes deep and contrasting.

Sleeve of woman's chemise, Samokov, 19th century

Sleeve of woman's chemise, Doupnitza region, 19th century

Sleeve of woman's chemise, Trun region, 18the century

Shirt sleeve, detail. Sofia region, 19th century

Sokai embroidery

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Edge of woman's chemise, Doupnitza region,19th century Edge of woman's chemise, Ihtiman region, 19th century Sleeve of woman's chemise, detail. Doupnitza region, 19 century Sleeve of woman's chemise, Sofia region, 19th century Embroidered belts The Bulgarian women's embroidering art was noted by many a foreign traveller in the Bulgarian lands during the 16th-19th centuries.

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The traditional Bulgarian embroidery is a wonderful art that goes back to ancient times, and it was a way to show information about the person who wore the designs, fundamentally their marital status, their social class and their place of origin. Embroidery used to have great symbolic value. It was believed to protect the human body from evil spells and spirits. People believed that cutting a part of the embroidery of one’s garment would blaze a trail for the evil spirits and make the person vulnerable.

Bulgarian women were allowed to embroider only until their wedding day – after that, they were having the right to do it again only when their own daughters become 12 years and they need to learn how to do it.The girls start at 12 years old embroidering what it will be later her trousseau when she gets married, and this was the highest skill of all domestic crafts.The color of the dresses as well have significance, many colors dye the Bulgarian costumes, but the main ones are red and green, yellow and white.

The red color symbolizes the mother’s blood and the continuation of life. It will protect from “bad eyes” and spells. The bride wore a red veil (this was common practice until 1920′ s), and the newborn child was a red-haired diaper; red is also the first Christ’s egg painted for resurrection. The green color was the expression of eternal life and was connected with the Tree of life – the universal human symbol of the universe.

The yellow with its shine was associated with the sun, the fire, and the light, and on the other side the dead and the prosperity of the people that they were predetermined.

The white color revealed the purity, the impenetrability, the immaculate youth, and the divine light. And to this day, as a transformation of the old traditions, the.  newlyweds have come to pay for whitewash; white wool set the bride in the wedding ceremony. Traditional Bulgarian embroidery is characterized by great regional and local diversity and can be seen on regional costumes of both men and women. Once upon a time, Bulgarian embroideries revealed the social status and ethnic origin of a person.
Tree of Life: It stands for a three-level vertical representation of our world. The crown symbolizes the Upper World or the Heavens, the trunk embodies the Earth and the roots stand for the Underworld, the home of demonic forces. The Young Sun or what Bulgarians called The Young Deity was believed to climb down the Tree’s branches at a certain time every year to illuminate human life and mark a new beginning. This motif appeared on cardigans and shirts in the entire country.
The swastica:The Swastika is associated with the cult of the Slavic god of the sun and the fire of Svaroh.and have been in the Bulgarian embroidery since the early Neolithic period. For thousands of years, it has illuminated people’s best hopes for fertility, success, love, joy, and prosperity.
By Yoana Lyubenova

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Bulgarian embroidery provides coded information

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Bulgarian embroidery provides coded information

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Lilia Petrova

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Bulgarian embroidery is part of the traditional Bulgarian folk costume, and it harbours symbols and meanings that were established far back in time. Traditionally the embroidered patterns are combinations of geometric shapes, which form together to create stylised images.
The patterns of Bulgarian embroidery can be traced back at least 3500 years, to the Bronze Age of Thrace. Though their origins remain obscure, due to an absence of written records, it’s clear the Thracians left a lasting mark on the development of European culture and beliefs, having influenced both the Greek and Roman cultures. It is also thought that the Thracians were responsible for creating the oldest golden treasure in the world, dating back to over 6,000BC, which was discovered near the city of Varna, Bulgaria.
Bulgarian embroidery is not just used for beautiful decoration. It also serves as a narrative, a symbol of status and provides coded information. The position of triangles and other basic shapes, and how they slot together, can tell different messages and represent ideals such as nation, family and kinship. Some of the oldest motifs come from the skulls of Bulgaria.

The colours that are used also carry their own symbolism, and heavily influence the meanings behind the designs. Associated with the Tree of Life, the colour green represents eternal life and resurrection. Red, is the symbol of maternal blood and life expectancy, and is often found used alongside green. White, as in many cultures, symbolises purity and innocence, but also joy, grandeur and beauty. Today, contemporary designers adopt on-trend colours to recreate these folkloric elements in modern design.
There are a variety of symbols, but one of the most important is the rhomb, which represents the feminine being. Different combinations of rhomb produce different shapes and messages, and each position has an individual meaning. Traditionally, the shapes and colours of a woman's clothing will be used to communicate her social status, for example, whether she is married or where her family came from.

Contemporary designers often draw their inspiration from an array of sources, both modern and ancient, to express their ideas in new and unique ways. Bulgarian embroidery has provided inspiration to many designers over the years, from fashion design to jewellery, graphics and interiors.
Bulgarian embroidery is a modern enigma, which houses deep-seated embedded technology and ancient unbreakable codes.

Lilia Petrova