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3.6 Identify acceptable material faults and marks for future identification

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3.6 Identify acceptable material faults and marks for future identification

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Note on fabric defects - Nadia Goretti
'Most of the quality control of fabrics is done before the fabrics leave the mill, however when manually lay planning the cutter responsibility to make sure that any fabrics fault is recorded on the fabric inspection document, faults in the cloth are marked with stickers. The stickers can be round and colourful and/or red arrow stickers pointing to the fabric fault are also used.'

Examples of fabric faults:
Woven
- Knots; a fastening made by tying together the ends
of yarn. Caused by thread breaks during process of winding, warping, sizing or weaving. Non mend able.
- Slub; a bunch of yarn having less twist or no twist and has a wider diameter compared to normal spun yarn. Caused by improper carding/combing or a broken tooth in the chain of gear system. The slub should be cut with the clipper from both the ends. The resultant bare patch can be corrected by
combing with a metallic comb or by insertion of a separate thread with the help of fine needle.
- Broken pattern; a broken pattern is the non continuity of a weave/ design/ pattern caused by the wrong drawing in of threads and/or incorrect shedding. Non mend able.
- Float; the improper interlacing of warp and weft threads over a certain area, caused by improper sizing (ends sticking) and/or broken end entangling with the other ends. Only minor floats can be rectified. The floating threads are cut with a clipper . Combing in both direction rectifies the resultant patch
Knit faults
- Bariness; a fabric defect characterised by textural bands or
colour bands in the course direction of a weft knitted fabric. A product of use of irregular yarn having higher long term irregularities. Using different count thread. Non mend able.
- Bunching up; this is largely influenced by take-up
mechanism and whether it functions properly or not. Caused by too weak fabric take-up or a thick place in yarn. Non mend able.

See below for credits and further reference on fabric defects.

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3.5 Manually lay-up fabric within tolerance in accordance with organisational rules, codes, guidelines and standards

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3.5 Manually lay-up fabric within tolerance in accordance with organisational rules, codes, guidelines and standards

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As a broad rule the biggest concern for manufacturers is efficiency of fabric use - the manufacturer 'Fashion Enter' recommends the use of at least 85% of a sheet of fabric from manual lay planning. This however is often difficult, especially when using patterns, knitted fabrics, napped fabrics all of which must be provisioned for in some way; as we discovered in the previously mentioned lay planning exercise. Accordingly, they further note that fabric consumption must in all practicality be confirmed by the unit price of a garment. Other concerns including product control, faults and defects can be found outlined below. It in particular looks at the regulations regarding implementation and acceptable scope of quality control and the respective implications and obligations of the various companies and bodies throughout the garment construction process.
Of particular relevance to this unit is it's interest in the assessment of rolls and acceptable margins of error outlined in the 'four point system' - a particular method of assessing and scoring the quality of fabric rolls and their use.

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Whenever working with checks (the same is true of stripes) one must first ascertain whether or not the plaid is even or uneven - this is fairly simple as one can just fold the corner and see if the stripes line up (if so it is an even plaid - if not it is uneven). If working with an uneven plaid one must lay the fabric flat and do each component individually, if the plaid is even one can cut on the fold. having aligned the pattern/marker with the grain-line one should mark onto the pattern the position of the stripes that pass through it. Having done so one can align the pattern piece with the piece that would adjoin it on the garment using the marks on the first pattern piece as a reference for the positioning of the stripes.The stripes should then be marked onto the next piece and the first can be cut. This process should then be repeated until all the requisite pieces for the garment have been cut.

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Whenever working with a fabric with a nap or pile (for instance velvet) one must align the pieces all going in the same direction - typically decided by the direction one intends the nap will lay. If one neglects to do this the garment will hang oddly. Typically the nap runs down from the roll end of the fabric but if in doubt one can just run their hand along the fabric, if the fabric feels rough one is running against the nap, while if it is smooth the opposite is true.

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See below for guidance on working with stretch fabrics.
Note - remember to note the point the fabric returns to to gauge recovery for future reference.

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3.4 Demonstrate and explain how to 'mark in' ensuring the correct positioning and placing of patterns for economic use of material.

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3.4 Demonstrate and explain how to 'mark in' ensuring the correct positioning and placing of patterns for economic use of material.

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See below for guidance on working with check fabrics

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This work was done in class as documented below.

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Manual lay planning:
- Fabric is carefully pulled off the roll onto a table and spread and cut to the appropriate measures. This is repeated several times until the requisite number of layers is built up. It is at this stage faults are checked for.
- The markers and pattern pieces are then arranged as befits the pattern and fabric type (this is discussed in more depth later).
- Having checked the arrangement the pattern will then be cut.

CAD (Computer Aided Design) - this is essentially a digital design process and accordingly is only available to those with a high level of technical skill and equipment.
The pattern is drawn up digitally and fed into a computer configured cutting device - be it with automatic blades, lasers et cetera.
Accordingly in theory the spreading process can be the same as manual. Normally, however,  the spreading is done with the assistance of a vacuum board rather than table (typically because all the stages can be done on one machine) which helps mitigate slippage and enables the cutting of many more layers of fabric. From here one simply has to engage the pre-set up machine with the pattern pieces which will cut the pattern as programmed. Only one person is needed to ensure the machine is running correctly. While expensive it is a very simple procedure.
Note - with regards to CAD, the stages of this process depends on the machinery in use.
See below for more information.

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final lay plan components:

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lay plan:

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3.1 Describe the roles within a team laying fabric manually.

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3.1 Describe the roles within a team laying fabric manually.

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In manual lay planning there are relatively few roles (though hit should be noted that due to technical limitations and the physical strain of the work you will often require many people to continue the same role). The core roles can be found below:
- Someone is required to lay and spread the fabric, often in multiple layers (though assuming one is manually cutting as well typically no more than three layers). This involves unrolling the fabric off the role, making sure it is the requisite way up and all fabric layers are suitably aligned (all the while checking for fabric faults to address). The exact method of this is all totally dependant on the technology in use.
- The only other essential role is who is cutting the pattern out having arranged the markers as appropriate to fabric and product - the exact method of this is again technology dependant and somewhat self explanatory.

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2.4 List the paperwork needed for lay planning

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2.4 List the paperwork needed for lay planning

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lead sheet:

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2.3 Identify fabrics that require special attention when lay planning.

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2.3 Identify fabrics that require special attention when lay planning.

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Transcript:
- printed fabrics
- slippery weaves of silk (in which case one should lay out on paper and cut through paper - limiting movement)
- any fabric with nap or pile
- any fabric with reverse of face (wrong and right side respectively)
- bias cut fabrics cannot be cut in more than a layer due to its tendency to warp and move

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2.1/2 Explain the characteristics of a range of knitted/woven fabrics.

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2.1/2 Explain the characteristics of a range of knitted/woven fabrics.

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Woven characteristics:
-weft and warp interlocked together
-woven on a loom with yarns in perpendicular arrangement (warp and weft)
-assorted kinds of weave dictated by distribution of threads which dictate finish...
-often has distinct sides dictated by weave, nature of yarn and the processing of the fabric.
Knit Characteristics:
- weft or warp knitted
- long lengths of yarn looped together, running in rows
- can be done by hand or machine

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For this unit the appropriate use of scissors is of particular relevance, accordingly the key points are listed below.

'Focus on the task at hand when using scissors. Stop using the
scissors if you want to look up.
• When using scissors, cut in a direction away from your body and
fingers, hands, arms, and legs.
• Do not attempt to catch a dropped pair of scissors. Let the
scissors fall and then pick them up.
(Note: only use scissors in well-lighted work areas.)
• Never engage in horseplay with scissors.
• Only use scissors for their intended cutting purpose. Do not use scissors for prying, screwing,
scraping, or pounding.
• Do not run or climb while carrying a pair of scissors.
• Use the proper type of scissors for the task at hand. For example, use fabric scissors or
pinking shears for cutting cloth and trimming scissors or a thread clip for cutting loose threads.
• Always pass a pair of scissors handle first to another person.
• When using shears, cut away from your body in regular, small strokes. Resting the shears
against a table allows for better cutting control. It is easier to cut from right to left when you are
right handed and from left to right when left handed.
• Practice good posture when using scissors. Avoid bending over a table when cutting with
scissors.
• Whenever possible, use scissors with your wrist held in a neutral position and not bent at
awkward angles or positions.
• A good practice is to keep your scissors sharp so they require less hand force to use.
• When necessary, have scissors sharpened by a professional scissors sharpener.
• Regularly clean dust, fluff, and cut fragments from the scissor cutting edges and blades.
• Periodically oil the screw slot and hinge area with a drop of fine oil.
• When finished, clean the work area (including the floor) and return scissors to their assigned
storage space.
• If you suffer an injury while using a pair of scissors, tell your group leader, parent, or guardian.
Seek medical attention if the injury is serious.'

For original document and credits, see below.

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1.1 Follow safe practices in the workroom.

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1.1 Follow safe practices in the workroom.

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Health and Safety unit