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I'm massively inspired by Sabrina Carpenters recent outfits on her era's tour. Mainly the corset dress with the heart cut out designed by Frolov.

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Taylor Swift's Eras Tour has already stopped at dozens of U.S. cities, but now, it's officially gone international. Last night, Swift descended upon Mexico City, where she'll play four more nights before moving on to Buenos Aires, Rio de Janeiro, and São Paolo later this year. You know what that means: New countries equal new opening acts, and none other than Sabrina Carpenter is now on the billing.

Making her Eras Tour debut last night, Carpenter wore a custom outfit by Ukrainian designer Frolov. "The new custom designs we've crafted for Sabrina are essentially twin dresses inspired by the pink gown from our couture collection she wore recently," Creative Director Ivan Frolov said in a statement. "Seeing how she and her styling team loved this look, we've decided to create two new exclusive versions using unique lace designs. The black corset dress has sparkling lace embellished with white crystals and showcases our signature heart-shaped cutout." Scroll down to see the photos and shop Frolov pieces for yourself.

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Sabrina Carpenter Just Opened for Taylor Swift Wearing a Crystal-and-Lace Corset

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Sabrina Carpenter just made her Eras Tour debut, opening for Taylor Swift. Get all the details on her custom heart-shaped outfit.

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I wanted to look at what companies are deemed most feminine, as I want to research into designers who embrace femininity. Stella McCartney was one of the top designers, her brand is also mostly vegan which is something id like to research into.

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Up until recently, gender equality was a major issue. The good news is that more and more people are considering women as equals. The reason is due, in part, to the many organizations that support and emphasize femininity. In fact, several fashion brands and designers are not only creating stunning and beautiful pieces of clothing. They are also 100% feminist, and they promote gender equality. So, what are some of the designer brands that emphasize the beauty and power of femininity?

1. Stella McCartney

As you know, Stella McCartney is a famous fashion designer, and her popularity was due to her signature style that involves sexy femininity and natural confidence. Aside from that, her brand is vegan; thus, she doesn't use any animal material in her designs. Best of all, her brand supports charities that focus on women's rights, breast cancer, and domestic abuse.

2. Diane von Fürstenberg

One of the most popular designer brands that emphasize femininity is Diane von Fürstenberg. She is a Belgian-American fashion designer who became famous after she married Prince Egon von Fürstenberg. Today, her fashion brand is available in more than 70 countries.

The best thing about Diane von Fürstenberg is her commitment to empowering women in various ways, including fashion, philanthropy, and mentorship. She also serves on the board of Vital Voices, an organization that assists female entrepreneurs and leaders. Also, she runs the DVF Awards, an organization dedicated to transforming the lives of women.

3. Roksanda

Another great designer brand that emphasizes femininity is Roksanda. In fact, you will notice femininity in their sophisticated yet playful designs. Aside from that, Roksanda Illincic, the founder of this fashion brand, supports women. To be specific, Roksanda promises to emphasize femininity through her "woman-centered design aesthetic."

4. Kate Spade

Kate Spade is an American fashion designer known for her sophisticated handbags, accessories, and clothing. Aside from that, this fashion brand also supports women. To be specific, The Kate Spade and Company Foundation aims to guide women in finding a skill that will help them support themselves and their families. Plus, the fashion brand also has a label known as On Purpose. This label employs women from different countries to empower them.

5. Tory Burch

Tory Burch is among the most popular designer brands that emphasize femininity. She is an American fashion designer, philanthropist, and businesswoman. Aside from creating fashionable clothing, she also founded the Tory Burch Foundation, which aims to empower women, specifically female entrepreneurs.

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Our Favorite Designers Brands that Emphasize Femininity - VIVA GLAM MAGAZINE™

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Up until recently, gender equality was a major issue. The good news is that more and more people are considering women as equals. The reason is due, in part, to the many organizations that support and emphasize femininity. In fact, several fashion brands and designers are not only creating stunning and beautiful pieces of clothing.

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Christina helped design Melanie Martinez's K-12 range for her album and short film. They all have very feminine silhouettes and a pale colour scheme.

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"Help build the dollhouse!"

Christina Flannery

Christina Flannery is a costume designer. She helped Melanie Martinez with the costumes for her film, .

According to Melanie, they met through Instagram.

Christina went to Budapest with the team and stayed during the filming.

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Christina Flannery is a costume designer. She helped Melanie Martinez with the costumes for her film, K-12. According to Melanie, they met through Instagram. Christina went to Budapest with the team and stayed during the filming.

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the subversive power of hyper-feminine fashion

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In a culture increasingly averse to gender codes, girlish aesthetics feel more rebellious than ever.

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Mind map of initial ideas. I want to look into feminine designers and sihouettes.

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Origin and intel. "British designer known for her provocative designs"

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Vivienne Westwood, in full Dame Vivienne Isabel Westwood, née Vivienne Isabel Swire, (born April 8, 1941, Glossop, Derbyshire, England-died December 29, 2022, London), British fashion designer known for her provocative clothing. With her partner, Malcolm McLaren, she extended the influence of the 1970s punk music movement into fashion.

She was a schoolteacher before she married Derek Westwood in 1962 (divorced 1965). A self-taught designer, in 1965 Westwood met and moved in with McLaren, future manager of the punk band the Sex Pistols. Together they pursued a career in fashion. Initially, they operated Let It Rock, a stall selling secondhand 1950s vintage clothing along with McLaren's rock-and-roll record collection. Westwood produced clothing designs based on his provocative ideas. Their customized T-shirts, which were ripped and emblazoned with shocking antiestablishment slogans and graphics, and their bondage trousers-black pants featuring straps inspired by sadomasochistic costume-flew out of the London shop of which the couple became proprietors in 1971. Their boutique-variously named Too Fast to Live, Too Young to Die; Sex; and finally Seditionaries-was a youth fashion mecca. Their erotically charged fashion image enraged Britain's right-wing press, however. Soon after Westwood and McLaren staged Pirates, their first commercial ready-to-wear collection, in 1981, they ended their personal relationship. They remained professional partners for an additional five years, but Westwood soon established her identity as a leading independent designer.

Westwood's "mini-crini" design-a thigh-grazing crinoline produced in both cotton and tweed that debuted as part of her spring-summer 1985 collection-marked a turning point. For the next two decades she created collections that took inspiration from classical sources, notably the paintings of Jean-Honoré Fragonard, François Boucher, and Thomas Gainsborough, as well as historical British dress, including the 19th-century bustle, which Westwood incorporated under elaborate knitwear dresses and tartan miniskirts.

Independently, Westwood built her own eponymous mini fashion empire, operating numerous boutiques and producing two menswear and three women's wear collections annually as well as bridal clothes, shoes, hosiery, eyewear, scarves, ties, knitwear, cosmetics, and perfumes. On April 1, 2004, a retrospective devoted to her creations opened at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London. "Vivienne Westwood: 34 Years in Fashion" was the largest exhibition the museum had ever dedicated to a British designer. She was made an Officer of the Order of the British Empire (OBE) in 1992 and advanced to Dame Commander of the Order of the British Empire (DBE) in 2006.

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Vivienne Westwood | Biography, Designs, & Facts

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Vivienne Westwood, British fashion designer known for her provocative clothing. With her partner, Malcolm McLaren, she extended the influence of the 1970s punk music movement into fashion. She later became a leading independent designer. Learn more about Westwood's life and career.

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From this list I have also choosen Hugo Boss, Fendi, Valentino, and Vesace to look at on my comp shop.

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Vivienne Westwood - 155 Competitors and Alternatives - Tracxn

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Vivienne Westwood has 155 active competitors. Competitors include Ralph Lauren, LVMH.

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Vivienne Westwood shirt, sold within Flannels costing £180 using both flat fell and french seams

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An example of the French seams used within the Vivienne Westwood shirt.

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100% cotton shirt

the embroidery is 70% Viscose and 30% polyester.

I really liked that it specified the type of fabric used for the embroidery as its an important point to mention when looking at sustainability. A lot of brands tend to ignore the trimmings within the care label as they do not have to legally specify what it is made from if it is under 15% of the weight of the garment.

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We spoke about what is needed for a tech pack, what enables us to make a tech pack and why we need one.

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Vivienne Westwood's white shirt care label

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Vivienne Westwood blouse sold in Flannels, cost £385. Made from 100% cotton.

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I wanted to design a few variations of the same waist coats. This particular design is a cropped version of the first design I did and also has a deep round neck instead of a v-neck with faux pockets. This wasn't my favourite I did go on to redesign it very similar but longer.

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I really like this design, I like the V-neck with the faux pockets i think they work well together. I need to do some brainstorming to see how I would attack the pockets onto the waistcoat. Would they need to be attached before the lining? would it be better to make them so they could be used?

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This is my second alteration of the cropped waist coat but longer, cropped would work however I would like to play on the unisex aesthetic that Vivienne works with more by making a stereotypical "Masculine" garment for a female. By making it cropped I almost ruin that.

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This is the design I am going to begin with, I am going to base my original pattern off of this and then look at creating the makeup of of the waist coat like the pockets. I have wanted to look into a tailored style garment and the process of its production so I think this will be really interesting.

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100% cotton

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Task one

Who was the mill? Set.

What was the material? 66%PL Recycled 34%PL & 100% recycled polyester.

Whats the usable weight and width? 90 Gr/mtr 130 gr/mtr.

Where is the mill based? Italian.

Task two

Brand 1

Ozdoku stock sustainable fabric that is certified by the BCI.

26% PES 15% COT 11% ACR 10% VIS 38% AR

Has to be taken to the laundrets, globally recycled standard, organic textile standard approved.

Brand 2

IPecker vegan and recycled. Turkish

53% Cupro 47% Viscose.

30-degree wash, can be ironed, no tumble drying, can use petroleum wash.

Removed all the chemicals that harm animals from their production.

Brand 3

Dongkeuk Korean brand

Modal 48% Rayon 36% and Polyester 16%

92 grams per square metre.

56/ 58 square width

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I was quite shocked on Vivienne's rating as they speak very highly about their sustainability. However they still use animal skin and fur and do not provide any evidence to back up a lot of their sustainability claims.

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Vivienne Westwood's environment rating is 'it's a start'. It uses some eco-friendly materials including recycled materials. . There is no evidence it implements water reduction initiatives. It uses recycled packaging. It reuses some of its offcuts to minimise textile waste.

Its labour rating is 'it's a start'. It has a Code of Conduct that covers all of the ILO Four Fundamental Freedoms principles.There is no evidence it ensures payment of a living wage in its supply chain. It traces some of its supply chain. It audits some of its supply chain but does not specify what percentage.

Its animal rating is 'not good enough'. It has a formal animal welfare policy aligned with Five Freedoms and has clear mechanisms to implement. It uses leather, down and exotic animal hair. It has a policy to source wool from non-mulesed sheep but does not provide evidence on how it is implemented. It does not use fur, exotic animal skin or angora.

Vivienne Westwood is rated 'It's a start' overall.

Last updated August 2022

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Vivienne Westwood's environment rating is 'it's a start'. It uses some eco-friendly materials including recycled materials. . There is no evidence it implements water reduction initiatives. It uses recycled packaging. It reuses some of its offcuts to minimise textile waste. Its labour rating is 'it's a start'.

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Political issues that may effect the fashion industry

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Political issues that may effect the fashion industry

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Child labor laws, well being regulations

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a. Political and Legal
A number of political and legal factors can affect the fashion industry. There have been multiple issues in the past such as worker rights and child labor laws. There are activists who are monitoring fashion retailers for violating child labor laws etc. ACME should not fall into the same trap and be aware of the norms in the region and ensure their suppliers are following it too. There are also union workers who could create trouble if their wages or benefits are not as favorable. United States is a free market oriented economy. There are significant employee laws and labor laws such as minimum wages, over time, health and safety such as OSHA regulations.
Some markets are still not open to foreign brands. Asian markets, ...show more content...

There has been a lot of emphasis on using sustainable, recyclable, bio friendly clothes. More and more brands are trying to reduce their environmental impact and governments around the world are also taking actions, framing policies to favor environment friendly brands. Brands like H&M are promising to be 100% sustainably sourced by 2020. There is a lot more awareness amongst people and activists, known personalities are also working towards spreading the word.
a. Threat of New Entrants:
Morgan Stanley predicts that by 2020 active wear will represent $83 billion in sales, "stealing market share from non-athletic apparel". The millennials, who represent 28% percent of the US population (largest demographic) are the driving force behind this trend. Their increased health consciousness, cultural shift towards flexible dress codes is a large contributor towards the popularity of sector.
This huge market opportunity has attracted a lot of new entrants. Designers like Alexander Wang and Stella McCartney have collaborated with fast fashion companies. Even Walmart and Target have joined the race alongside the players like Lululemon, Adidas, Nike, Under Armour ...show more content...

They too serve men and women, boys and girls of all ages.
Lululemon is widely present in the United States and Canada, UK, few countries in Europe and Asia Pacific. Their primary focus was to target women but they have recently started focusing active wear for men and are trying to grow it.
Athleta is only present in the United States and serves women and young girls.

For ACME clothing it should look for opportunities in Asia as affluent millennials are valuing health, family time says study. ACME could thus target households with high income, target both men and women, girls and boys, who have an active lifestyle or are aware of the benefits of good health.
Source: http://retailinasia.com/in-trends/news/consumer/affluent-asian-millennials-value-family-time-health-says-study/

b. Go to Market

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Political Factors Affecting Fashion Industry

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a. Political and Legal A number of political and legal factors can affect the fashion industry. There have been multiple issues in the past such as worker...

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Four stages to a garment

Inspiration-Development-Production-Delivery/instore

Did a cardigan for George asda, started with inspiration (drawings, colours etc), Development (any special requirements e.g. BCI cotton) , production (best place to be made, ensuring its all made correctly etc, metal detecting),

Knitting done in China as they have a similar climate to Europe.

No loops on childrens garments, ribbons/ button holes etc all have to be a specific type or size.

FAB

George ASDA ss/23 burnout party dress.

They sell a lot of this around easter time, however sell a lot of this around the middle east and during Ramadan.

Produce a sheet for the customer so they can pick what they want from the inspiration sheet.

get to the colour they want and the shape. Its then bought and goes into production, fabric takes 55 days to come to the factory.

have to be careful with specific fabrics such as this burn-out fabric do a pull test, this will test the seam strength. Usually will request they do a wearer's trial.

Next boys swimwear

Next ss/23

2PC rash vest

The design team will go to Barcelona or somewhere to get inspiration. They will get a brief and then they will design the drawings for them, the brand will then choose what design they want to use.

Gotta do a lot of testing as its next to the child's skin whilst its wet and its also used in the sun so you have to make sure it's going to keep the child sun safe.

Political part of the PESTLE-China has issues with Taiwan

Dunnes SS/21

Woven swim shorts

Miami, and Barcelona trips, produced in Bangladesh for “cheaper” clothing.

Bangladesh is prone to flooding, low prices, Bangladesh however doesn't have many fabrics, lead times are longer

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Made from 100% organic cotton retails for £135

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Flat fell seams used on the hem of the shirt

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Made from 100% cotton, buttons made of mother of pearl. Retails for £800, sold in selfridges.

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Draw string shirt cuff with intricate sewing around the sleeves.

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Retails for £130 and is made out of 100% cotton

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The sewing on the sleeve of this shirt was arguable the worst i had seen out of all the brands. It wasnt bad sewing however it just wasnt to a high quality like the other brands.

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£150, made from 98% organically grown cotton and 2% spandex

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I did some research for waistcoats or formal fitted clothing within this book. I didn't manage to find any examples of waist coats Vivienne has made throughout the years however I did find some formal fitted pieces I could base my inspiration around.

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This was one of the Garments i liked from the catwalk book, I thought I could take inspiration from the fit of the bodice for my waist coat, looking at whether i would want to make the neck-line lower or keep it higher.

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The history of ready to wear, what is it? Names used for ready to wear and information on made to measure

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Bespoke and made-to-measure tailoring: what to expect from the different services | New & Lingwood

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Bespoke vs made-to-measure: what to expect from the different levels of custom tailoring, including measurements, material choices and style specifications

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made to order is a more sustainable manufacturing technique used by new and upcoming brands who worry about their footprint in the fashion industry.

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A couple of weeks ago, a New York Times article entitled Sweatpants Forever swirled the fashionsphere.

The piece - which uses small and agile leisurewear brand Entireworld and its founder Scott Sternberg as the model for fashion brands resisting the current perils of retail - charts the fashion industry's recession, catalysed by the pandemic.

It argues that fashion's fast pace, number of seasons, the unfavourable wholesale deals brands often sign with online retailers and department stores, the 2008 recession, the rise of social media and a global pandemic has meant that 'fashion seemed to slowly annihilate itself.'

While brands like J. Crew, Neiman Marcus, Brooks Brothers and J.C. Penney filed for bankruptcy over the last few months, the article explains, Entireworld, with its direct to consumer model and perennial styles, has thrived.

But, there is another breed of fashion organisation similarly flourishing under lockdown: 'made to order' brands.

Doing exactly what they say on the tin - making clothes only as and when they are ordered - these brands' business structures not only solve many of the fashion industry's aforementioned problems (the unfeasibly fast pace, paired with newfound pressure to create and produce more and more quantitatively), but also some issues relatively new to public discourse. Namely, fashion's exclusivity (particularly regarding sizing) and significant contribution to the climate crisis.

'It's a far more ethical and sustainable approach because there is no overproduction, reducing the risk of excess unwanted stock going to landfill.' Emma Slade Edmondson, founder of ESE Consultancy which helps brands 'harness social and environmental good', said of the made to order model. 'It avoids encouraging a culture of wanting more and more newness at rapid speed,' she continued, 'Instead, it promotes slow fashion, quality and the love for one well-made piece that can become an heirloom.'

Where Did Made To Order Fashion Go?

Of course, the concept is nothing new. Up until the mid-to-late 20th Century, Western consumers either making their own clothes, or purchasing items made uniquely for themselves, was the norm.

However, with the dawn of fast fashion (a difficult date to pinpoint, but author Lauren Bravo estimates the 1960s in her book How To Break Up With Fast Fashion: 'The 60s spawned Inditex, which owns Zara, and Chelsea Girl, now River Island. They saw Paco Rabanne make disposable dresses from paper, and revived dandyism as a youth pastime for men and women alike') and the the offshoring of clothes manufacturing to developing countries (started in earnest in the 1980s), came a distinct shift in the average shopper's relationship with their own clothes and how they are made.

An intimate understanding of a piece of clothing's worth, with value placed on its longevity or quality, was largely replaced with a (somewhat understandable) desire for low cost and volume, leading to cut-cost manufacturing (bad quality, bad ethics, and bad practice) and a throw-away attitude to our clothes (meaning waste, waste, and more waste).

This is a generalisation of course. Bespoke and couture fashion has continued to exist for those who can afford it, and not everyone has prescribed to the same level of consumption, but looking at the stats (be it textile waste, worker's wages, or CO2 emissions), it's unfortunately a fair assessment that fast fashion reigns supreme.

The New Age Of Made To Order

Cue a new generation, largely birthed by Instagram, of small fashion brands attempting to bring bespoke clothing back to the mainstream.

Businesses like MaisonCléo (founded in 2016 with 79.1k Instagram followers currently), By Megan Crosby (founded in 2019 with 29.9k Instagram followers currently), and Olivia Rose The Label (founded in 2017 with 44k Instagram followers currently) are rapidly increasing in popularity, but not, notably, in scale.

'The process of making to measure for some brands can take up to three months, there will certainly be no competing with next day delivery offerings, and it's a difficult operation to truly scale. But I think especially for those going into it with a more sustainable fashion future in mind, that really is the point', Slade explained.

Often using finite or limited fabric stock (MaisonCléo sources deadstock Couture fabric, while By Megan Crosby only buys high-quality fabric once her orders are in), and priding themselves on their small, reasonably-paid teams (Olivia Havelock of Olivia Rose The Label runs her brand single-handedly, while Megan Crosby of By Megan Crosby has a team of three plus sometimes seamstresses, that she, for example, pays £22.50 to create one 'Leah dress'), transparency, ethics, and sustainability are their calling cards.

'We offer a made to order model as it's the most responsible way of producing garments.' Sarah Bartlett, founder of Carnations (launched in 2020 and with currently 1,632 followers on Instagram) told us. 'It means there will never be unwanted stock, and therefore a need to sell garments off for low and unfair prices. With made to order the customer understands they are getting something really special, they see the value in it.'

These brands price themselves in that mid-range spot - asking for anything between £50-£250 for a top - i.e. expensive enough to ensure fair pay and quality construction, while still being a cheaper option than most designer items on the market.

'The benefit for brands is that prices can legitimately be higher because of a genuine increase in quality and therefore also the projected lifetime of the piece is longer.' Slade Edmonson detailed. 'Often, made to measure set ups allow for more transparency and better sight of your supply chain because it's simpler and slower and many brands are more in touch with what's going on.'

Plenty have followed Marie Dewet of MaisonCléo's lead in creating a public ' receipt' for an item, detailing exactly how they landed on the cost, including everything from fabric to studio space, and ensuring radical transparency.

'I'm really comfortable and confident in having these chats because my profits aren't very big,' Amy Ward of Bug Clothing (launched in 2015 and with currently 9,416 followers on Instagram) told ELLE UK of her price transparency. 'What I make goes back into the business, supports other small businesses such as the companies that make my paper goods, the place I get my machines serviced, my materials, and I also give a percentage to charity. I feel very passionately about how much value we all place on our goods.'

Sitting apart from the current norm where a buyer may see (through targeted ads or expensive runway shows), buy, and receive a new piece of clothing in a matter of hours, these brands demand patience and restraint, with pre-order models that mean clothes may take weeks to arrive on their doorstep. They attract their customers with brand ethos and perennial styles over convenience and trend-driven designs.

And attracted they have been - MaisonCléo's weekly drop sells out in minutes, while both By Megan Crosby and fellow newcomer Before July (founded in early 2019 with 3,287 followers on Instagram currently) have had to temporarily close up shop while getting through their orders in recent weeks. What was the making of a few dresses as a side-hustle, has become a fully-fledged business for many of these designers and creators: Crosby had to relocate from her bedroom to a studio mid-lockdown to handle demand.

And despite the semi-exclusive nature of limited stock and manufacturing capacity, made to order brands have the potential to be wholly inclusive, not only as the designers themselves need no formal training (though many have it), capital, or industry 'contacts' to start their brand, but because most allow for completely bespoke sizing (and sometimes colour and fabric too).

'For me,' Slade Edmonson told ELLE UK, 'the opportunity for offering size inclusivity is a big plus, particularly when it comes to sustainable fashion - as many of the brands offering collections still don't offer even up to a size 18. Made to order brands can cater to this market producing one-offs in deadstock or natural fibre fabrics without running the risk of holding inventory that might not sell.'

As Slade Edmonson said, reasonably-priced, sustainable, and size-inclusive clothing is something of a sartorial white whale. Currently, ecologically-minded 'plus-size' buyers are scrambling for few second-hand options, even fewer quality and modern designer options, and are being left, ultimately to buy fast fashion that actually caters to their size.

'I know that there is a problem in the fashion industry surrounding sizing, it's tough to find pieces that fit with mainstream brands,' Crosby said of offering bespoke sizing. 'I have an entire part of my website dedicated to totally custom and bespoke orders now as they are so so popular - it's such a fun service where people can get absolutely anything they want made. At least three quarters of the orders on regular product is made to custom measurements.'

Made to order brands not only allow size 16 and upwards consumers rare access to invest in relatively affordable, sustainable clothes that are stylish and fun, something they of course, like every consumer, deserve, but for everyone to have a slice of the personalisation pie.

'Today's consumer desires personalisation, an item which is one of a kind and holds a story, and above all, consumer's value experiences.' Nina Van Volkinburg, Lecturer in Fashion Retail at London College of Fashion, UAL, detailed.

What Is The Future Of Made-To-Order Fashion?

With consumer appetite increasingly focusing on the bespoke, experiential and personal, it's perhaps unsurprising that other fashion businesses are turning their attention to made to order.

'Made to order fashion is a huge opportunity for retail.' Van Volkinburg explained. 'When retailers zoom out and start thinking bigger than strictly the garment, there are opportunities to experiment with new forms of collaboration and consumer led experiences which go beyond single transactions. You can build loyalty and a meaningful connection with customers.'

Some brands are widening their scope by beginning to offer bespoke services alongside their off-the-rack selection, namely Cawley Studios (who launched this service under lockdown) and Clio Peppiatt (who launched their service back in 2017).

'My thinking behind this is the more individualistic our approach,' Founder Peppiatt said of her bespoke beaded dresses seen on Jorja Smith and Lady Gaga, 'the more personal and special the garment and the greater it's sentimental value to the customer.'

And department stores are getting in on the action too - MaisonCléo has been creating limited collections for e-commerce giant Net-A-Porter since 2019 where, their Senior Fashion Market Editor Libby Page told ELLE UK, the brand 'drove sales' due to their 'very loyal customer base', while Olivia Rose The Label has taken up space at historic superstore Selfridges.

Under lockdown an important part of any made to measure process - the taking of measurements in person by a seamstress - has been unavailable, with brands relying on customers measuring themselves (something that has been actually largely successful according to the brands we've spoken to and made easier by some creating their own 'how to' guides), this is something Whitney Cathcart, the co-founder and CSO of 3DLOOK, wanted to address.

'We saw a huge demand for contactless body measurement solutions from made-to-measure companies who needed a simple way to measure their customers to stay in business.' Cathcart said of the inspiration to create the Mobile Tailor, which 'enables[brands] to send their customers a measurement link via email or SMS and receive over 70 measurements on a personal business dashboard in under 30 seconds', using just two self-portraits sent in by the potential buyer.

'Not only does this enable [brands] to operate online, but allows them to scale up, since they are no longer limited by the physical location of their customers.' Cathcart said.

But, while reducing human error, ensuring good fit, and attempting to limit returns is of course a good thing, made to order brands should perhaps be wary of scale. Isn't their intimate, small, and slow nature what makes them so appealing to increasingly mindful consumers?

'It's a good way for people to socialise themselves into the idea of a slower more organic and sustainable way to do fashion,' Slade Edmonson said of the slower, but ultimately more gratifying experience.

'You have to wait longer, both you and the maker have to put more thought into the piece itself and it will undoubtedly cost more. But the idea is that it will be worth waiting for - the fit will be better; the cut will be for your body and not the unattainable body that the fashion industry at large makes for, and the piece will be something you hopefully love and treasure for a very long time.'

So, if good quality clothing and happy and healthy creators is what you want, why not treat yourself with a made to order item? Get to know the future of fashion now.
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The Rise Of 'Made To Order' Fashion And Where To Commission Your Next Dress

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A couple of weeks ago, a New York Times article entitled Sweatpants Forever swirled the fashionsphere. The piece - which uses small and agile leisurewear brand Entireworld and its founder Scott Sternberg as the model for fashion brands resisting the current perils of retail - charts the fashion industry's recession, catalysed by the pandemic.

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Saves time and money, reliable, privacy, more rare products etc

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Today, many people prefer online shopping because of its many obvious benefits. Products are easier to find and you can easily and effortlessly order products without going to the store. Enough reason for people to use this service. Online shopping has become very popular because of the growing access to the Internet via mobile and desktop. According to Statista's latest ecommerce research, there are currently 18.43 million ecommerce users in South Africa, with an additional 6.36 million users expected to be shopping online by 2021. More and more online businesses are becoming popular and have trusted and intuitive websites. Millions of products are sold worldwide through the e-business model. Still spending half your weekend at the local shopping centre? We have listed 7 amazing benefits of online shopping which you might not be aware of:

1. Easy to find Finding a product on the Internet is much easier than running through your local store to find the right product or size. You can order your shopping online and have it delivered to a convenient pickup point (Click and Collect) or to a Collect in Store counter.

2. Cheaper products Some products are much cheaper online, as some specials are online exclusive, which means only online shoppers can access them. There are many convenient ways to browse products online and compare prices before you shop.

3. Save time and energy You don't want to waste precious time by waiting and searching the aisles during shopping rush hour, just to find what you wanted is already sold out. This problem can be easily remedied by ordering online and having your items delivered to your nearest and most convenient pickup point.

4. Freedom of choice Product options are much broader if you shop online. A particular product will be online in many more different sizes and colours compared to what you find in-store.

5. High satisfaction Online shopping has become very reliable, hence the high satisfaction rating of online stores. Online shopping is intuitive and trustworthy.

6. Rare products Online shopping can also be very useful for buying rare or niche products. For example that limited edition sneakers you really wanted or the yoga mat that's only available overseas.

7. Privacy When you shop in-store everybody sees what you buy. In some cases this might be problematic or even embarrassing. With online shopping, you always get the desired privacy and anonymity.

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Today, many people prefer online shopping because of its many obvious benefits. Products are easier to find and you can easily and effortlessly order products without going to the store. Enough reason for people to use this service. Online shopping has become very popular because of the growing access to the Internet via mobile and desktop.

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Research into the salary of a photographer for my customer profiling

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Research into the salary of a photographer for my customer profiling

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The salary of a photographer ranges from £28,000 a year to £40,000

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How much does a Photographer make in United Kingdom?

The average photographer salary in the United Kingdom is £28,000 per year or £14.36 per hour. Entry level positions start at £24,000 per year while most experienced workers make up to £40,020 per year.

Active jobs with salaries

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Photographer Salary in United Kingdom - Average Salary

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Photographer make an average of £28,000 / year in United Kingdom, or £14.36 / hr. Try Talent.com's salary tool and search thousands of salaries in your industry.

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How has fashion effected the LGBT community?

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How has fashion effected the LGBT community?

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Fashion has been a way for the LGBT community to express themselves and help distinguish who is part of the community. Starting with women dressing masculine wearing suits and monocles to just using fashion as a way to feel in touch with their sexuality.

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Clothes and fashion have always been an integral part of our society. Apart from protection from climatic and natural conditions, they also form a basis of self-identity. Historically, there has been a distinct line between the two genders regarding clothes. However, things started changing over the last fifty years. The ever-changing characteristic of fashion made it easy to adapt to the LGBTQ (lesbian, gay, bisexual, transgender, queer and others) trends to create definitive statements and styles. In a way, this is very similar to the political or cultural impacts on fashion.

The queer community and its culture have heavily influenced fashion. Several influential fashion designers in the past century were gay. However, most of them remained closeted during their lifetime due to societal pressure. It was only in the 1980s, that the designers started to showcase queer culture in runway collections. The modern world can see another rise in queer fashion by young designers like Christopher John Rogers, Kelsey Randall, Patrick Church, Ludovic de Saint Sernin etc. These LGBTQ designers strive to bring back the visibility of the queer community in fashion with not just designs but profound advertising campaigns.

Studies show that the 18th century was the turning point, where the distinction between hetero and homo sexuality was finally acknowledged. Before this, all men would dress in a similar way. It was during this era, that the gays in London started using clothing as a way of identification. However, societal oppression pushed this community to secrecy. However, it is essential to note that the interest of this community in fashion was because it helped them to identify themselves and other individuals from the same culture. Fashion, over the years, acted as a tribe that would unite queer people.

A few of the ways in which the LGBTQ community has shaped and influenced fashion over the years is discussed in the section below.

Gay men have been involved in creative fields like fashion, theatre and catering throughout history. Many top designers of the 20th century were gays/bisexuals. The queer community was more open to experimentation with ideas, styles and fabrics. Designers often looked at street fashion as well as gay clubs for design inspiration. The concept of an androgynous man and metro-sexuality made it acceptable for straight men to be interested in fashion. However, even in the magazines targeted at heterosexual men, a gay influence is evident. Stylists, hairdressers, photographers etc from the LGBTQ community also influence fashion.

So, unlike mainstream fashion, people from the LGBTQ community take great care of their styles and collections. It is crucial for them that the clothes they choose help them to express their identity and sexuality. It offers them a platform to discover themselves as well as present in front of others. For these people, style is just not about aesthetics. It is a form of self-expression.

More and more fashion houses acknowledge this concept now. The increased flamboyancy in designs is a result of this. Gender-fluid clothing has become popular. This reduces the rigidity in clothing across the spectrum. Studies indicate that most gay men have a creative flair, and they have an extensive influence on fashion and design. Even with the presence of great heterosexual designers, the clarity that gay men have about fashion is undeniable.

The influence of the queer community on social media as well cannot be undermined. Social media platforms allow people to experiment with their styles. The unique and constantly evolving nature of queer fashion provides it inspiration from different angles. Currently, Tyris Winter, Ziggy Mack-Johnson, Ylenia Riniti etc are a few of the queer influencers who are ruling the social media platforms.

Currently, it is acceptable for straight men to be interested not just in fashion but also the grooming products and lifestyle magazines. The gender fluid characteristic of modern fashion makes it more and more difficult to distinguish between a heterosexual man and a homosexual man. In such an era, the queer community strives to showcase even more flamboyant looks and styles to stand apart from the heterosexual crowd.

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Read article about Clothes and fashion have always been an integral part of our society. and more articles about Textile industary at Fibre2Fashion

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"While many designers these days are openly gay, homosexuality in the industry was once either a fiercely guarded or an open secret."

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The celebrity-heavy unveiling of New York's annual Met Ball may guarantee its home, the Costume Institute, a certain amount of attention each year, but it is not the only museum in the city that explores the history of fashion.

At the Fashion Institute of Technology, museum director and chief curator Valerie Steele has been carving out a reputation for shows that flirt with the fetishistic and expose the often uncovered side of fashion. Her latest, A Queer History of Fashion: From the Closet to the Catwalk, co-curated with Fred Dennis, delves into the LGBTQ contribution to style, from 18th-century London, where "mollies" cross-dressed (here in red velvet capes) and had mock marriages, to present-day America, where gay people can legally marry.

Steele says: "We wanted to put gay people back into history, not just by saying that some designers happened to be gay, but by saying, 'actually, LGBTQ people have had a big impact on fashion for a long time, and it's not just by chance.'". Ranging from the sober to the flamboyant, and referencing hanky codes, Aids awareness, leather and lumberjack, the exhibition explores gay people as both designers and trendsetters, through high fashion, street style and performance gear.

While many designers these days are openly gay, homosexuality in the industry was once either a fiercely guarded or an open secret. Dior was terrified his mother - and the wider world - would find out he was gay; Yves Saint Laurent's relationship with Pierre Bergé was only explicitly romantic later in his career; and Austrian designer Rudi Gernreich (if only we were all floating about in his printed unisex kaftans) was a founding member of gay rights group The Mattachine Society in 1950 - although he quickly quit, terrified he would be arrested and deported from the US.

The show is a small, celebratory sprint through centuries of style. Certain looks stand out: the lesbian elegance of the 1920s, typified by the Monocle club; Marlene Dietrich's looks, which show off her impeccable taste as well as her gender-bending; the moving collection of Aids awareness T-shirts; Versace's leather ballgown, which disgusted wealthy women in Dallas early in his career, but captured the fashion world's imagination during his heyday 15 years later ("Now look: 200 socialites in bondage!" he laughed, according to Steele).

There is great pleasure in imagining the people connected to the clothes, too. A Saint Laurent suit isn't just a great example of the designer's tailoring, but was also worn by Aids activist Larry Kramer. Spanish designer Miguel Adrover's astonishing - but kinda gross - coat is made out of Quentin Crisp's stained old mattress, which he found in the rubbish after the raconteur's death.

Since the exhibition ends with the plain suits worn by a male couple at their recent marriage, the question is: will greater assimilation make LGBTQ fashion less "queer"? Steele thinks not. "People have been saying that for years: 'We're not going to be so edgy! It'll be all bourgeois with gay marriage!' First of all, it's not all New York and London - there's Egpyt, Russia, Uganda, lots of places where there's still tremendous hostility towards gay people. Also, there's the sense of feeling different; that your gender or sex alignment is not the norm. I think that sense of being different is not going to disappear."
* A Queer History of Fashion: From the Closet to the Catwalk is at The Museum at FIT, New York, until 4 January 2014. Topics

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A Queer History of Fashion: From the Closet to the Catwalk - review

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The celebrity-heavy unveiling of New York's annual Met Ball may guarantee its home, the Costume Institute, a certain amount of attention each year, but it is not the only museum in the city that explores the history of fashion.

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Before we started our pattern cutting session we did a lesson on pattern cutting, we was taught how to cut on the grain line/ bias and how to add a 1cm seam allowance using a pattern master

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this artiacle was actually really interesting in never realised how much vivienne had done for the queer community and how her legacy has effected fashion

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I was 13 years old when I discovered Vivienne Westwood. The music came first. From the moment I heard the album Never Mind the Bollocks, Here's the Sex Pistols, I was hooked. Within a few months, I was spending my pocket money on a knock-off Westwood design - tartan bondage trousers. My punk look was completed with ripped t-shirts held together with safety pins, a denim jacket customised with bullet holes in the back, and Doc Martens boots.

It's only recently that I've come to understand that what appealed to me most about the punk aesthetic, pioneered by Vivienne Westwood in the mid-to-late 1970s, was its queerness. From the start of her career in design, Westwood's clothes challenged and undermined gender norms, and it's probably for that reason why she is so revered by the LGBTQI+ community.

Westwood began selling clothes at a shop at 430 Kings Road, Chelsea with her then boyfriend, Malcolm McLaren in 1971. The third and most radical incarnation of that shop SEX, sold rubber and leather fetish gear alongside designs by McLaren and Westwood, including the original bondage trousers that I coveted as a teen.

This is where the queer, S&M aesthetic of punk came from.

Picture of SEX scanned from an adult magazine called Gallery International (1976). Photo: Patrick/Flickr

Queer aesthetic

Queerness as a theoretical and cultural idea was brought into prominence in the 1980s by the French philosopher Michel Foucault. Simply put, queer theory is study of everything that sit outside of the heteronormative.

Heteronormativity places heterosexual desire as the normative (how things ought to be) system of society. This includes the belief in binary gender, and presupposes defined male/female, masculine/feminine behaviour. Anything else, including sexual behaviours perceived as deviant such as sadomasochism, is aberrant (queer).

It was at the shop SEX in 1975 that McLaren and Westwood first sold the iconic gay cowboys T-shirt. A subject chosen more for its shock value than for reason of allyship. It features a design appropriated from American artist Jim French with two men in cowboy clothes without pants, penises almost touching, while one arranges the handkerchief around the neck of his friend.

The text below: "Ello Joe. Been anywhere lately? Nah, it's all played aht, Bill. Gettin' too straight", ironically, mourns the loss of queer spaces. It's prophetic of the once hidden world of gay subculture that is now exposed to the mainstream.

The iconic gay cowboys tshirt designed by McLaren and Westwood. Vivienne Westwood website

That t-shirt led to prosecutions for indecency for shop assistant, Alan Jones, and for Westwood and McLaren too. It became a staple of punk uniform worn by Siouxsie Sioux, Sid Vicious, and many others besides.

Sid Vicious wearing his gay cowboys t-shirt in 1977. Photo: Dennis Morris/Wikimedia.

Challenging the gender binary

Queerness and the challenge to binary gender in fashion have been a part of Westwood's designs since she moved her clothes from the high street to the high fashion runway.

For her Pirate collection in 1981 the designer let the models, male and female, choose the clothes themselves regardless of gender. It was a style sold at Worlds End the final incarnation of 430 Kings Road, remodelled to suggest a pirate ship. The shop remains a mecca for Westwood devotees today. The pirate look was worn by Malcolm McLaren's music protégés Adam Ant, Boy George, and Bow Wow Wow: New Romantic dandies who played with gender and androgyny.

Vivienne Westwood runways featured men in skirts and dresses long before, Harry Styles, Sam Smith, and Jaden Smith were wearing non-binary fashions to red-carpet events.

A model walks the runway at the Vivienne Westwood show during Milan Men's Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2016/17. Photo: taniavolobueva/Shutterstock.com

The recent fashion for men wearing pearl necklaces and pearl drop earrings was equally foreshadowed by Westwood who had men in pearls on the runway from the early 1990s. Westwood pearl jewellery has never been more in fashion. Timothée Chalamet cemented his "pretty boy" reputation when he wore a Vivienne Westwood pearl choker to the premier of the film Bones and All in Rome last year.

Westwood and drag culture

When Westwood died on 29 December 2022, tributes flowed from the fashion and entertainment community. Among them were many of the stars of the global reality television hit RuPaul's Drag Race. This year, RuPaul's Drag Race launched its 15th season in North America. Its move to MTV (remaining on Stan in Australia) has secured a place in the mainstream for the subversive queer culture of drag.

British drag star Bimini Bom Boulash took to Instagram, posting:

"Heartbroken at the news. If only the world was more like Vivienne Westwood. Rest in Power Vivienne. My Inspiration forever."

Winner of the first season of RuPaul's Drag Race UK, The Vivienne, who takes her name from the designer, posted:

"Vivienne Westwood is the woman that showed me I could do anything, I could wear what I wanted, she was an ICON and I lived my life through hers in some sort of way."

Raja Gemini who took the Crown of season three of Drag Race is widely regarded as first and foremost among the fashion queens. Her runway look of episode five: a high-piled powered wig, corset, and trousers printed with pastel forms reminiscent of French Rococo paintings strongly recalls Westwood's 1991 Portrait collection. If you listen carefully, you can even hear the show's judge Michelle Visage say "there's Westwood" as Raja walks out on the mainstage.

Under the creative direction of Westwood's husband, Andreas Kronthaler, the brand has become a leader in non-binary fashion. Skirts, dresses, and heels are worn by models regardless of their gender identity.

It is under Kronthaler that the former contests and noted fashion queens of Drag Race have become part of the Westwood family. Drag queen Milk was photographed for a Westwood SS2018 campaign by Jurgen Teller to coincide with the opening of a new boutique in New York City in 2018. Queens Miss Fame and Symone sat front row at Vivienne Westwood shows for Paris Fashion Week dressed in the designer's clothes in 2021.

Now, some 30 years after I first found out about her work, I'm lucky enough to own Westwood clothes. Wearing one of her kilts, a billowing toga shirt, wonky "alcoholic trousers", and pirate boots raises eyebrows and admiration in equal measure. Westwood once said: "you have a more interesting life if you wear impressive clothes".

I can attest to that. Her clothes make me feel more authentically myself as a queer person.

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Fashion, sex and drag: Vivienne Westwood's queer legacy

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From an infamous cowboy t-shirt to RuPaul's Drag Race, Vivienne Westwood's impact on the queer community cannot be understated.

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Colour trends our 2024 spring/summer collections

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Colour trends our 2024 spring/summer collections

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Pops of colour, darker tones, two dark tones together eg brown and navy

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When it comes to everyday outfits, pulling looks off the runway isn't always the most practical. Schiaparelli's recent sci-fi-couture collection, for example, while fabulously chic, may be better suited for the catwalk or the red carpet. That said, when it comes to styling and tricks of the trade, the runways are ripe with inspiration. One such trick we've been paying attention to recently? Color combinations. The spring 2024 runways offered a masterclass in mixing and matching unexpected shades to excellent effect.

Whether it was with the unusual pairing of two neutrals, like rich navy blue and deep chocolatey brown, or the combining of contrast colors, like purple and Kelly green, all of our favorite designers seemed to be pushing their palettes this season. If you want to get in on the fun, but don't know where to start, we've put together a little primer on styling some of our favorite spring 2024 color trends and pairings in the edit below.

Brown + Navy

While traditional styling wisdom may preach against the pairing of navy and dark brown, we think the combination looks crisp and elegant for spring, and Miu Miu showed us a great way to wear it. Go for a warm chocolate brown (the suede adds a sumptuous touch of texture) with a dark, clean navy, and keep the extras simple.

Shop more chocolate brown pieces:

Red + Gray

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6 Unexpected Color Combinations We Loved From the Spring Runways-And How to Style Them Now

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From gray and Kelly green to navy and deep chocolatey brown, here's how to incorporate and style six spring 2024 color trends into your wardrobe now.

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Is grunge aesthetic back? Yes grunge has been seen to make a come back within the fashion world. Specifically on social media and with celebrities

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Written by Helen Boogzel

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Posted on January 27 2024

Fashion influences culture and culture influences fashion - it all goes hand in hand. Grunge fashion is just one of the many perfect examples of this.

The Origins of Grunge Fashion

Throw it back to Seattle, Washington in the late 1980s. The underground music scene was quickly making its way into the mainstream.

Grunge music was escaping the underground, growing in popularity and saturating the airwaves. The sound could be described as an amalgamation of punk, rock 'n' roll, and heavy metal.

Bands like Nirvana, Pearl Jam, and Soundgarden were topping the charts and taking their places on magazine covers and television screens.

As Grunge music became the sound of the late 80s and early 90s, the grunge aesthetic naturally followed suit and quickly became the fashion of the era. It was all about the disheveled, could not care less, just rolled out of bed and woke up like this style. It seemed like the whole point of grunge fashion was to look like you didn't care about fashion at all.

Androgynous, ill-fitting, and oversized garments were just the right style and the right size. If you had stepped out the door looking like you didn't brush your hair and had haphazardly thrown on your clothes, then you were entirely in fashion.

In contradiction to the opulence that the 80's is also known for; grunge fashion was all about clothes that looked as if they came from a thrift store or were hand-me-downs, while actually coming from some of the trendiest stores or designed by the It designers of the era.

By the time the 90s rolled around, grunge style was at the peak of its popularity. Marc Jacobs leaned into the grunge aesthetic while designing for Perry Ellis, along with designers Calvin Klein and Anna Sui, who infused it with her quintessential hippie vibe. Even high fashion houses like Versace and avant-garde designers, including Ann Demeulemeester and Comme des Garçons, indulged in the grunge style for their own collections.

Celebrity Influencers of Early 90s and Modern Grunge Fashion

Of course, you can't talk about grunge fashion without talking about the icons of the aesthetic.

Among the leading proponents of the grunge style were none other than the Nirvana front man Kurt Cobain and his partner Courtney Love.

Whether on stage or off stage, the couple rocked the style like no other.

Model Kate Moss is another 90's icon that embodied the grunge style on numerous catwalks, as well as on sidewalks, donning the style for her model off duty look. Together with her then boyfriend Johnny Depp, the in-style duo could be considered the faces of the early 90s.

Among the other celebrities who made grunge style part of the 90s zeitgeist were Brad Pitt, Drew Barrymore, and Winona Ryder. Decades before social media, these superstars were the ones who dictated the style of the day.

As with many 90's trends, the old is once again new and grunge fashion is back with popular demand. These days, while many are interpreting grunge their own way, few have been doing grunge fashion better than Olivia Rodrigo, Billie Eilish, Bella Hadid, and Hailey Baldwin Bieber.

You yourself can readily adopt the modern version of the grunge aesthetic into your own wardrobe and all you have to do is to come to us at Boogzel Clothing for everything you'll need. There are a few key elements to consider when choosing grunge clothes and styling your own grunge outfits.

How to Create a Grunge Aesthetic Outfit: Step-by-Step Guide

Grunge Aesthetic Outfits

1. Large and Loose

First and foremost, regardless of the specific style of garment, when it comes to grunge outfit, you'll want to remember two words: large and loose.

Think baggy jeans, loose shirts, extra-large sweaters, and oversized outerwear. Look as disheveled and grunge as can be in ill-fitting clothes that look too large to be your own. Take it a step even further by pairing your men's fitting t-shirt with baggy trousers and layer on an oversized sweater.

2. Knit Sweaters or Cardigans

Nothing says grunge quite like a knitted oversized sweater or cardigan. After all, it was a staple in no less than Kurt Cobain's very own wardrobe. With its extended neckline, dropped shoulders, overlong sleeves, and loose fit, it easily screams cozy, comfortable, and without a care. Slip your own oversized knitwear over a t-shirt or any other top to channel your own grunge style.

3. Black and White

While there is no hard and fast rule to the colors of grunge, considering the grit and grim associated with the aesthetic, it should come as no surprise that black and white are the most dominant colors of grunge fashion. You can't go wrong wearing grunge clothes with graphic designs, stripes, abstract or tie-dyed prints in black and white.

4. Graphic T-Shirts

Make a statement with your grunge style by wearing a graphic t-shirt. In terms of the grunge aesthetic, your graphic t-shirt can come in any design, whether it be a single word, a simple slogan, or a visually captivating print. The key characteristic of the graphic t-shirt is that it should either fit very loose or very tight - nothing in between. Remember, grunge style is about carelessly putting something on, even if it doesn't seem like it fits you and appears more like you borrowed someone else's clothes.

5. Plaid and Stripes

While stripes and plaid patterns may immediately conjure up images of preppy, school uniforms, they're also key elements of the grunge aesthetic. Look no further than Anna Sui's own original grunge collection from the 90's, which was streaked with grunge clothes in all sorts of colored stripes. The key is to combine plaid and stripped clothes with garments that fit the other characteristics of grunge fashion. Remember the 90's cult classic film Clueless? Just think of how Dionne in her plaid skirt suit and Murray in his baggy jeans and t-shirt made just the perfect match.

Grunge Outfit with a plaid shirt

6. Ripped, Distressed

Grunge style just isn't complete without at least a single rip, tear, or distress. Consider that grunge clothes take inspiration from old, thrift store finds and you'll surely realize that distressed styles and ripped garments are part and parcel of the grunge look. Step into a pair of heavily distressed jeans, put on a shirt riddled with holes along with a ripped sweater and you've got the grunge style down.

7. Chains and Buckles

Inject flair into your grunge style with an array of chains and buckles. This is where the punk and heavy metal influences of grunge music and therefore grunge style make their appearance. Think chain belts or belts with lots of studs and grommets, jeans with hanging chains, as well as tops and skirts with prominent buckle closures and chained designs.

8. Grunge Style Leather Jackets and Skirts

Essential to any grunge wardrobe is the leather jacket, a piece that's as iconic as it is versatile. Whether it's the classic black, radiating that untamed rock vibe, or a bold red that's breaking the mold, these jackets are more than just attire; they're a nod to the rebellious spirit of the rock scene. Go for a tight cropped fit or an oversized bomber - each style screams grunge in its own way. And let's not forget about leather skirts and pants. These aren't just fashion statements; they're tributes to the grunge ethos, seamlessly blending with the raw, unfiltered essence of rock. In the world of grunge, leather isn't just a material; it's a symbol of defiance and individuality.

Grunge Style Shoes

When it comes to grunge style shoes, it's all about striking the right balance between comfort and edgy aesthetics. Classic sneakers, like Converse, are a staple - effortless and unmistakably grunge. For those who prefer a bit more support, comfy sneakers are the go-to, blending practicality with the grunge vibe. But it's not just about laid-back kicks; leather boots add a touch of ruggedness, perfect for nailing that grunge look. And for a twist of femininity without losing the grunge essence, consider buckled sandals or chunky high-platform shoes. These options infuse a bit of elegance while keeping the rebellious spirit alive, proving that grunge can be both bold and versatile

Combat and Platform Boots

Before you step out in grunge style, make sure you have a pair of combat boots, platform boots or a combination of both on your feet to perfectly complete your grunge outfit. Think Doc Martens or any other pair of chunky, clunky, heavy duty looking combat boots. Feel free to go with your preferred style of lace ups, zippered or buckled boots or even a style with dual closures for added drama. While you can't go wrong with a pair of black boots, there is also no limit in terms of color. Red, white, orange, blue or green - any color will take your grunge style to the next level.

Grunge Accessories

Finish off your grunge outfit with just the right accessories. When it comes to grunge, it's all about the silver hardware. Show your personality with your choice of accessories. Opt for more effeminate styles like metal bows, flowers, and hearts on rings, necklaces, bracelets, and hairclips. On the contrary, you can also choose a design with a bit more edge and a rebellious vibe with barbwire-style necklaces, padlocked bracelets, double rings, and dangling ear cuffs. For those who prefer something entirely unique, we at Boogzel have got unorthodox styles that will surely be conversation starters. Oversized safety pin and kitchen knife shaped hairclips, dripping water earrings, band-aid shaped nose rings, and a unicorn skeleton pendant are just a few of the eye- catching accessories that you can choose from.

Grunge Sunglasses

To truly complete a grunge outfit, a pair of is key. Whether it's the iconic Kurt Cobain-style white frames , exuding a blend of nostalgia and edgy cool, or for an extra punch of attitude. Even classic round, black sunglasses can add that final touch of grunge chic, seamlessly tying together the outfit with a nod to the rebellious and unconventional spirit of the style. These aren't just accessories; they're the defining stamp on your grunge statement. sunglasses with metallic accents

Grunge Sub Aesthetics: Exploring Fairy Grunge, Grunge Sleaze, Sexy Grunge

Fairy Grunge

In addition to the general characteristics of grunge clothes that we've now broken down for you, another aspect you may want to consider is the subculture of fairy grunge style.

This aesthetic combines the androgynous style of grunge clothes with more feminine and whimsical design elements. Think skeletal fairies, studded stars, distressed and cutout butterfly designs, tulle combined with denim, patchworked hearts, and tissue paper style miniskirts, just to name a few.

Sexy Grunge

Today's modern iteration of grunge style also features a sexier side. Take inspiration from Bella Hadid and Olivia Rodrigo. Instead of going full on oversized or androgynous, consider pairing your baggy jeans with a plaid cropped top or a bralette with buckles and other metal hardware. Conversely, can also wear a pleated mini skirt with your oversized sweater. Another option is to style your distressed bottoms and combat boots with a sexy cutout top or a tight-fitting mesh top.

Don't think that just because you're going for a grunge look that it means you can't look sexy as well. After all, grunge is all about looking like you just rolled out of bed and what can be sexier than that?

Grunge Sleaze (Indie Sleaze)

Grunge sleaze (Indie Sleaze) , a distinctive fashion phenomenon, merges the raw, edgy elements of 90s grunge with glitzy, glam rock influences, creating an eclectic and bold aesthetic.

Emerging as a prominent style in the late 2000s, it reflects a blend of grunge's gritty textures and the flamboyant aspects of fashion glam. This style is characterized by a mix of rough grunge staples like leather, distressed denim, and oversized clothing, with the glimmer of fashion - think sequined skirts, shiny dresses, and glittering accessories.

Key influencers and representatives of grunge sleaze include artists like Sky Ferreira and Pete Doherty.

Sky Ferreira, with her edgy yet glamorous style, embodies the essence of grunge sleaze. Her fashion choices often include elements like leather jackets paired with glittery attire, striking a balance between grunge's ruggedness and glam's sparkle. Pete Doherty, known for his music as well as his distinct style, also represents this trend. His look often combines classic grunge elements like tattered shirts and leather boots with more polished, fashion-forward pieces.

Pete Doherty - Indie Sleaze Outfits

Grunge sleaze as a style statement is not just about the clothing but also about the attitude. It represents a carefree, bold approach to fashion, where mixing and matching seemingly contrasting elements is encouraged. This style is about breaking the norms, combining the unconventional, and creating a look that is both rebellious and chic. It's a nod to the past, yet it's thoroughly modern, appealing to those who want to make a statement with their wardrobe choices, blending the unpolished with the refined.

While there may be a number of style elements that you have to consider to put together the perfect grunge outfit, there's no need for you to feel overwhelmed. You need not look any further than Boogzel Clothing because we've got all you need to get ready and take the grunge (pun intended.)

Keywords: grunge clothing, grunge outfits, grunge style, grunge aesthetic

Check out also Related Aesthetics:

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GRUNGE IS BACK: Top Outfit Ideas and Styling Tips ⛓️

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Discover the latest in grunge style with our comprehensive guide. From iconic grunge outfits to modern twists like grunge sleaze, we cover top pieces and styling tips. Dive into the rebellious world of grunge fashion and find inspiration for your nex tgrunge aesthetic outfit

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fit shape and trend

[ ] finish out with the new in with the old

[ ] waist coat page

[ ] history of the waist coat

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[ ] comp shop waist coats

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[ ] vivienne body

[ ] sizing

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[ ] colour acrossthe market

[ ] colour across the market

[ ] colour across the market

[ ] fabric choices

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[ ]continue the journey and upload photos

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originally they were worn as a protection and ornamentation layer in the 18th and 19th century

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Culture: probably British

Medium: silk, metal, linen

Credit Line: Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of the Brooklyn Museum, 2009; Gift of Edwin A. Neugass, 1959

Accession Number: 2009.300.2839

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Waistcoat | probably British | The Metropolitan Museum of Art

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Culture: probably British Medium: silk, metal, linen Credit Line: Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of the Brooklyn Museum, 2009; Gift of Edwin A. Neugass, 1959 Accession Number: 2009.300.2839

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Women wearing waist coats stem off of historical power and allowing queer and gender fluid people to feel more free.

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The garment influenced the gender non-conformity movement.

The vest has been making its return for some time now.

In recent years, it's been spotted on the runway, and models like Kendall Jenner and Bella Hadid have been sporting a reimagined version of the garment sans undershirt.

And while you might associate this street style staple with the fashion of the early aughts, its lineage can actually be traced back to the 17th century, when King Charles II of England introduced the garment as part of " correct dress" for men (as fashion embraces the Regencycore aesthetic, it's only fitting that the vest - and its royal lineage - follow suit).

The unassuming top would later symbolize rebellion against ideas of gendered clothing, today exuding a stylish aura of androgynous comfort.

Its appeal is in its versatility. When worn tightly with nothing underneath (à la model off duty), the vest gives off an undeniably sleek vibe. But this wasn't always the case.

Originally resembling a floor-length coat in the 17th century, later versions of the vest were cut short and the attire became known as a "waistcoat." Throughout subsequent centuries, the waistcoat's elaborate embroideries and bright hues were traded in for more understated designs and colours.

For much of history, the vest was made exclusively for men - until it was used to subvert gender norms.

The vest is a symbol of gender rebellion, Fashion TikToker Gabrielle Jones said in a recent video, and the appropriation of men's clothing. Women first adopted waistcoats as a form of revolt against the French government in the late 18th century, they noted.

Vests designed for women was more commonplace in the late 19th century, according to the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York City, at which time the garment became a symbol of gender non-conformity.

In the 1920s, women wore the vest and other traditionally male garments to reject notions of gendered clothing. Gay women, specifically, have a history of using clothing designed for men in creative ways to defy gender norms, writes Dressing Dykes, a lesbian fashion history platform.

It was during this decade that women dubbed " modernists " would opt for an androgynous look by donning pieces made to be worn by wealthy men, including high collars, tailored jackets, short haircuts and, of course, vests or waistcoats.

The 1920s fostered a queer fashion subculture in which communities experimented more openly with gender fluidity. Rosalind Jana writes for Refinery29 that the vest has "historically [defied] not only convention, but also various restrictive laws surrounding gendered clothing."

By wearing a piece of clothing that represented men of wealth and influence, queer and gender-diverse people were able to reclaim the symbolic cultural power that the vest has held throughout its history.

A century later, our modern fashion landscape is once again embracing the vest. Take Harry Styles, an artist lauded for his gender-bending style, who recently donned a flashy gold sequin fringe vest while performing on tour for his album Fine Line.

The trend has also been seen on Tyler, The Creator, a queer artist who's known for embracing gender-fluid aesthetics via fashion statements like painting his nails and sporting a blonde bob wig. Tyler, The Creator has an impressive sweater-vest game, but unlike Styles, Jenner or Hadid, he often opts for the oversized layered version.

A sign of prestige and class throughout history, the vest now represents the new age of gender-fluid fashion.

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As The Vest Makes Its Return, We Revisit Its Gendered History

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The garment influenced the gender non-conformity movement. The vest has been making its return for some time now. In recent years, it's been spotted on the runway, and models like Kendall Jenner and Bella Hadid have been sporting a reimagined version of the garment sans undershirt.

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View and edit this palette on Coolors.co or create your own color schemes.

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layering, charms,motocross, fabric manipulation

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WORDS Baillie Jones
HEADER IMAGE Backstage at Masha Popova by Heidi Jones

As the Spring/Summer 24 fashion season comes to a close, we investigate the biggest trends on show throughout the collections and how these luxury aesthetics can be reimagined by incorporating elements into our everyday wears.

This is an accessible way to emulate your favourite looks from the runway and revive preloved pieces, lowering our consumption is a more ethical shopping choice for both the environment and our wallets. Even if you want to buy something new to modify, you can still stay on trend for less.

As the well-documented cost of living crisis continues to soar, so has the popularity of repurposing our belongings. According to parliament, inflation reached over 11% at the end of 2022, with the combination of this and the aftermath of lockdown it's no surprise that people became resourceful with their clothing.

During these difficult times, creativity is beginning to flourish with people up-cycling the pieces they already own and the tutorials are all over our TikTok feed. With the DIY hashtag having over 380 billion views, TikTokers have become the best guides on replicating the latest trends with their accessible tutorials. There are many benefits to getting imaginative with your closet. Adding your own spin on a piece only adds to its value, making it an original that no one else will have, not even the runway.

CHARMS

Balenciaga asks: how many charms are too many? Introducing a heavily embellished bag to the runway in Paris; embossed with charms, hanging keychains, chains and tassels. This trend has been revived thanks to Gen Z's fascination with Parisian style and

Jane Birkin pioneered the trend of heavily overdecorated handbags. Inspired by the way Birkin wore her Hermes bag and made it her own signature piece even further than its title, people have been transforming their own handbags and 'birkinifying' them. Whether it be adding charms, badges, safety pins and bows, people have been showing the outcome of this inspiration through their videos with the hashtag #janebirkinsbag withholding over 162k views.

Chopova Lowena took over London with both its charm and charms, sported through the collection of embellished skirts, and dresses and even replacing zipper tags with more jewels.

LAYERING

As well as offering of-the-moment trend items, we can also thank Fashion Month for providing sartorial suggestions to reimagine wardrobe staples.

The Maison Margiela show was playful and inventive with its styling, incorporating masses of layers, compiling oversized shirts, stacking jumpers, jackets and coats all accompanied by classic loafers and thick white socks. This is a look that can be achieved with wardrobe staples- even raiding your Dad's work closet to achieve the elevated classic office-wear look.

Masculine tailoring was imbued with emphasis on androgyny this season. Continuing the heavily amplified office wear chic, trench coats and longline blazers dominated the forefront of this season's collections by Coach, Burberry and JW Anderson. There are countless online tutorials on how to effectively layer basics to create a high fashion look, TikTok creator demonstrates how to casual down office wear for everyday style with their captivating get ready with me videos.

MOTOCROSS

Motorcross aesthetics have been a lasting trend over the past couple of years - no doubt thanks to Diesel's mega-revival in Milan and Mowalola's racy offerings in London. This season, biker chic could be seen throughout fashion month with designers including Masha Popova, Courreges and Chloé among the many walking leathers down the runway.

The high octane and intense energy of the sport is expressed outwardly through toying with form and sculptural shapes to create movement. Elements of this trend can be easily imitated at home by upcycling old denim and leather. The worn-in element is the main component of capturing the essence of the sport, as if you've just jumped off your motorcycle, removed your gear and are ready for action.

Acne Studios reigns supreme with its dusty, worn-in leather jackets which can be replicated by wearing down the surface of your favourite leathers with sandpaper or leather treatments. Diesel's iconic acid wash finish can be created by soaking your old denim with household bleach. To parallel the sleek, matrix-style Courreges looks, opt for an all-black outfit paired with vintage leather from your favourite local vintage market.

FABRIC MANIPULATION

Continuing with the manipulation of fabric and proportions, brands like Ann Demeulemeester, Y-project and Loewe created silhouette-altering shapes and asymmetry by displaying conventional pieces in unconventional ways.

Instead of buying something new you can transform an item by wearing it the 'wrong' way; wear a dress as a skirt, a skirt as a top or layer pieces to change their original appearance. Creator @itsjakeflemm has produced a series of tutorials on TikTok, displaying how they use pieces in their closet to create whole new outfits; including button-up shirts as maxi skirts and trousers contorted into tops. Structure can be further manipulated within our closets by using safety pins to gather the fabric together to create ruching and movement, adding a playful element to an otherwise plain piece.
Enjoyed this story? Help keep independent queer-led publishing alive and unlock the BRICKS WORLD Learner Platform, full of resources for emerging and aspiring creatives sent to you every week via newsletter. Start your 30-day free trial now.

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DIY Fashion Month's Hottest SS24 Runway Trends - BRICKS Magazine

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Following another flashy fashion month, BRICKS contributor Baillie Jones shares how to get the runway looks for less using simple styling hacks.

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I took some photos from here to show leather is in trend for SS 24

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The Spring/Summer 2024 season of Paris Fashion Week has come and gone in a swift yet hectic week. With back to back shows and memorable moments that included Sarah Burton's farewell to Alexander McQueen, Marni's eclectically vibrant and stripped collection and Anthony Vaccarello's inspection of historically female aviators for Saint Laurent.

When it comes to the September to October fashion week window, the weather is often unpredictable. Paris days could easily be filled with blazing rays of sun and in a turn of moment, torrential downpour. This season saw showgoers dress in casual layering to keep themselves prepared for the ever changing weather in the city of Paris. While color palettes were muted, with many sticking to classic black, white and tan hues, details were in the silhouettes and the texture of the pieces. From all leather get ups to distressed denim to casual t-shirts and trousers, one thing is certain is that comfort is at the center of styling. Even the oversized Rick Owens jacket is synonymous with a fluffy cloud.

Cardigans and knitted vests bring the texture and colour to the streets. Accessories like the Loewe Wave Mask sunglasses give attendees an element of mystery and a dramatic focal point amongst their outfits. Stars from all over the world descended upon Paris, including the likes ofPeggy Gou, Usher, Erykah Badu and Jennie from BLACKPINK. Take a look above at some of the best streetwear outfits we saw at PFW SS24.

In other street style news, here were some of the best Milan Fashion Week SS24 fits.

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Paris Fashion Week SS24 Street Style: Casual layering is emphasized for the transitional Fall weather.

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Among these, several countries have gained international recognition as the crème de la crème of leather production. In this article, we embark on a journey to explore the world's best leather-producing countries, examining their rich heritage, advanced techniques, and unparalleled craftsmanship that have cemented their status at the forefront of this industry.

When it comes to leather production, Italy stands unrivaled. With a history spanning centuries, the country has perfected the art of creating exquisite leather goods. Italian leather is renowned for its exceptional quality, meticulous attention to detail, and a distinct sense of style. From Florence to Milan and Tuscany, Italian cities are bustling hubs of leather production, where the finest hides are transformed into luxurious handbags, shoes, jackets, and furniture.

Argentina boasts a rich heritage in the leather industry, deeply rooted in its gaucho culture and cattle ranching tradition. Argentine leather is celebrated for its durability and distinctive grain patterns. Vast expanses of grazing land provide a constant supply of high-quality hides. Argentine artisans skillfully craft these hides into beautifully designed leather goods, including boots, belts, saddles, and accessories. Buenos Aires, in particular, is renowned for its leather markets and boutiques, offering a wide range of premium leather products.

United States:

The United States has emerged as a major player in the global leather industry, renowned for its stringent quality standards and cutting-edge innovation. States like Texas and California, home to large cattle ranches, ensure a steady supply of top-grade raw materials. American tanneries employ advanced techniques and eco-friendly processes, resulting in ethically produced, highly desirable leather. From high-end fashion accessories to automotive upholstery, American leather products are highly sought after worldwide.

Brazil:

Brazil's expansive landscapes and diverse ecosystems have positioned it as a key player in the leather industry. The country benefits from abundant raw materials, including high-quality hides sourced from its vast cattle ranches. Brazilian leather is esteemed for its exceptional durability and natural beauty. Skilled artisans meticulously transform these hides into a range of products, including footwear, upholstery, and garments. Brazil's leather industry is committed to sustainability, with many tanneries adopting eco-friendly practices to minimize environmental impact.

India:

India boasts a rich history of leather craftsmanship that spans centuries. The country's traditional tanning techniques, passed down through generations, result in uniquely textured and characterful leather. Indian leather goods, such as bags, shoes, and garments, showcase intricate detailing and exquisite craftsmanship. The city of Kanpur, known as the "Leather City of India," is a major hub for leather production, housing numerous tanneries and manufacturing units. India's leather industry is renowned for its quality and offers an extensive range of colors and finishes.

Turkey: A Fusion of Heritage and Innovation:

Turkey, an integral part of the leather industry, deserves special recognition. With a rich heritage in leather production and its strategic location bridging Europe and Asia, Turkey has cultivated a distinct position in the global market. Turkish leather is esteemed for its exceptional quality, craftsmanship, and innovative designs. Istanbul, a vibrant center for leather production, hosts a blend of traditional workshops and modern manufacturing facilities.

Turkish leather products encompass a wide range, including handbags, shoes, jackets, and accessories. Renowned for its softness, suppleness, and an extensive color palette, Turkish leather is highly sought after in both fashion and interior applications.

Sustainability is a priority for the Turkish leather industry, with many tanneries adopting eco-friendly practices such as using vegetable-based dyes and minimizing water consumption during the tanning process.

Turkey has gained recognition as a leading exporter of leather goods, supplying prestigious fashion brands and retailers worldwide. The fusion of traditional craftsmanship with modern techniques has solidified Turkey's position among the world's top leather-producing nations.

From Italy's timeless elegance to Argentina's leather tradition, the United States' commitment to quality, Brazil's natural abundance, India's traditional craftsmanship, and Turkey's fusion of heritage and innovation, these countries represent the epitome of leather production. Each nation brings unique strengths, rich heritage, and distinct techniques to the industry, ensuring a diverse range of exceptional leather products for consumers worldwide.

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World's Finest Leather Producing Countries

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Leather, a material cherished for its durability, versatility, and luxurious appeal, is sourced from various regions worldwide.

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Why you should choose the Italian leather trade, all about the new process called vegetable tanning in which organic substances are used to make leather.

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Express shipping to the US. 100-day trial & Lifetime warranty

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Published 1 years ago

Much like delicately aged French wine or grass-fed Argentinian beef, Italian leather is synonymous with quality and tradition.

The Italian peninsula has long been regarded as the epicentre of leather production worldwide, but what's all the fuss about? And is leather Italia everything it claims to be? If you're eager to find out, keep reading below.

What is Italian leather?

Put simply, Italian leather is that which is produced in Italy. The nation boasts many of the best tanneries in the world, who often specialise in a particular method of leather production called vegetable tanning. The process involves using natural vegetable tannins - organic substances found in tree bark, plants and fruit - to create leather.

The premium leather that Italy is renowned for is the full-grain, vegetable-tanned kind. Removed from the outermost layer of the animal's skin - the most durable part of the hide - full-grain leather has an unaltered grain structure and is subsequently extremely robust. By combining the highest quality grain of leather with a complex but rewarding tanning method (vegetable tanning), Italian artisans are able to produce an exceptional type of leather.

It must be stated, however, that the term 'Italian leather' is not protected, and so does not guarantee consumers a certain degree of quality. The phrase merely advertises the location in which the material is manufactured. Cheaper, inferior types of leather are also produced right across Italy. 'Italian leather' is really a catchall, geographical term, but sellers will often use it in their marketing collateral to benefit from the prestige associated with it.

There are tell-tale signs for identifying premium Italian leather goods, but more on that later. First let's explore Italy's historical relationship with leather.

History of Italian leather

Leather tanning in Italy has a rich socio-cultural history that dates back to the Etruscan civilisation in the 8th century BC. The Etruscans were the first people to explore and harness the technique of vegetable tanning, the basic principles of which remain the same today. Key to this early progression were expert shoemakers, who produced durable sandals for everyday use.

Leather production grew in social importance under the Romans, as the material was used in everything from transportation, to clothing and warfare. During this period, the art of vegetable tanning also became a regulated industry, and complex leatherworks started to spring up across the Roman Empire. Excavations of the ruins of Pompeii, a city destroyed by a volcanic eruption in 79AD, revealed a once-thriving tannery.

In 1282, the Arte dei Cuoiai (Leather Workers Guild) was born. It was one of many professional guilds in Florence (others were present in developed cities like London), secular institutions that protected trade secrets and enforced strict quality standards. This ensured the city's leather industry remained highly competitive on the international stage. To this day, dotted along the banks of the river Arno from Florence to Pisa, esteemed leather artisans continue to operate.

At the beginning of the 20th century, a selection of now leading fashion houses began their commercial lives as leather goods stores, including Prada (1913), Gucci (1921) and Ferragamo (1927). Demand for their products in the ensuing decades allowed the Italian leather industry to grow in stature and profitability.

In contemporary times, The Genuine Italian Vegetable-Tanned Leather Consortium has played a vital role in safeguarding the tradition of vegetable tanning in Tuscany. The twenty tanneries within the organisation share a philosophy that values time-honoured expertise, craftsmanship and environmental responsibility. The tanneries continue to produce some of the best leather in the world.

Why is Italian leather so highly regarded?

Part of the success can be attributed to the passing down of knowledge through generations of leather artisans. This is particularly relevant to the practice of vegetable tanning, where the specific blend of tannins used in the process has a definitive impact on the physical properties of the leather, such as the colour and texture. A master tanner will adjust his blend according to the desired finish, often relying on the wealth of information his ancestors have relayed to him.

Another feature of the Italian leather production process is that each stage is highly specialised. Vegetable tanning is a lengthy and complex procedure that can last up to 60 days. The division of labour permits factories to specialise in certain aspects of the process, such as the application of finishing treatments, leading to efficiency gains and increased expertise: each affects the price and quality of the leather.

While Italian leather artisans lean heavily on their heritage, they marry this with a simultaneous desire to innovate and refine existing techniques. Much of this comes down to a willingness to embrace the latest technological developments. 80% of tanning machinery is produced in Italy - allowing the nation's tanneries to stay in tune with technological developments.

In addition, the constant evolution of legislative requirements ensures that businesses are forward-thinking and the quality of leather remains high. Just as Parmigiano Reggiano is made in compliance with strict specifications, Italian laws on leather processing are equally stringent. Manufacturers found to have ignored quality measures risk being deregistered. From an environmental perspective, the Italian tanning sector is also leading the industry's sustainability agenda, but more on this later.

The characteristics of Italian leather

Premium Italian leather (of the full-grain, vegetable-tanned variety) possesses a distinct set of characteristics. Firstly, it has a rich, earthy and woody aroma - the kind you probably already associate with leather. And it tends to be oilier than leather from other countries, largely due to the application of certain finishing treatments.

In terms of physical characteristics, high-quality Italian leather often exhibits warm tones that intensify over time. Because the leather is permeable, it gradually absorbs different elements - like water and dirt - when it comes into contact with them. Over time, fine Italian leather goods will typically display a distinct patina: a desired outcome in the eyes of many leather connoisseurs. And from a structural perspective, Italian leather is renowned for being supple and flexible.

Because full-grain Italian leather does not have its grain structure altered, any natural markings on the surface of the animal's hide will still be perceptible after the tanning process is complete. Scars or bites fall into this category. As such, each piece of full-grain leather has a wholly unique and natural appearance - which only adds to the aura of exclusivity.

Uses of Italian leather

Designer handbags are probably the consumer good most closely associated with Italian leather. The enduring popularity of fashion houses like Prada, Bottega Venetta and Gucci has kept the material in the international spotlight for decades. The fashion world favours Italian leather for its versatility and beauty, but it's utility extends far beyond handbags.

From shoes to bags and car upholstery, Italian leather is a great option for producing everyday items that can withstand frequent use and poor weather. And due to the superior look, feel and ageing pattern of vegetable tanned hides, it can also be used to manufacture stylish accessories like Italian leather wallets and belts.

At Carl Friedrik, we work exclusively with the finest raw materials available. Our leather is sourced from an Italian tannery called, Artigiano Del Cuoio, based in the heart of Florence. The family-run factory belongs to The Genuine Italian Vegetable-Tanned Leather Consortium and takes great pride in the art of leatherwork. The leather they produce is butter-smooth, refined and long-lasting: it is the underlying material across our collection, from contemporary briefcases to functional home office accessories.

The future of Italian leather

Exports of Italian leather fell by 27% in 2020, largely due to a drop in demand caused by the pandemic. Aside from that, the country is facing pressure from other leather producing players like China, India and Brazil. Chrome tanning, another production method that uses man-made chemicals, is flourishing in Asia. Italian artisans risk losing market share to factories selling inexpensive, inferior types of leather, destined to become mass-produced products.

The situation is not entirely bleak, however. For one thing, Italian tanneries are championing the movement towards eco-sustainability in the industry. Tuscan tanners now strive to directly manage not only purification, but also the proper management of by-products. In a society where consumers increasingly demand industries to show social responsibility, Italian tanneries are adopting a proactive approach.

Tied to the increasing focus on sustainability in the leather industry is the rise of vegan leather. This synthetic leather is touted as an ethical alternative; one that reduces meat consumption and the large amount of greenhouse gas emissions associated with the livestock sector. Here again, Italian tanneries are driving the diversification of leather.

There are other reasons to remain positive. Demand for luxury leather goods is forecasted to grow in the next few years, fuelled by the rise of wealthy middle classes in Asia. And the Italian leather industry remains a behemoth, with an abundance of talent and specialisation. There is little doubt that Italy will remain a dominant and innovative force in the international leather market for the foreseeable future, particularly because the luxury goods is forecasted to see double digit growth in 2021.

Summary

By leveraging centuries-old techniques and remaining open to technological innovation, Italian tanneries have stayed at the cutting edge of leather production. Coupled with strict domestic regulations on the industry, these factors ensure that Italian leather - notably of the full-grain, vegetable-tanned variety - remains a highly sought after commodity.

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Italian leather: the best leather in the world?

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Express shipping to the US. 100-day trial & Lifetime warranty Bags Luggage Accessories Home office Location: United States (US) Published 1 years ago Much like delicately aged French wine or grass-fed Argentinian beef, Italian leather is synonymous with quality and tradition.

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Good on you sustainability rating for deadstock

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Good on you sustainability rating for deadstock

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It can be sustainable as long as its done in the correct way, eg a sustainable small business who are already making strategies to improve their footprint

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What Is Deadstock Fabric and Is It Sustainable? - Good On You

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Deadstock or leftover fabric is touted as sustainable by the industry, so is it really the answer to a pressing waste problem or just greenwashing?

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I'm currently finishing my Level Four diploma in Garment Technology and I am interest in becoming a Junior Garment Technologist.

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I looked at some tweed fabric i thought Vivienne may use.