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I agree with the author’s argument that the perceptions of beauty have evolved as the fashion industry has been forced to be more diverse and open-minded in their perception of beauty, due to the forces created by the internet (para 5). In Singapore, this can be seen in Miss Universe Singapore 2021, where the winner Nandita Banna is shown to display a less conventional form of beauty, and expressed that women in the current generation are not just pretty faces, but excel in other areas such as their academics or careers. This defies the norm of how beauty is perceived in my society. As a representative of Singapore on the global stage, it proves that Singapore as a society is accepting and more open-minded in the perceptions of beauty. Therefore, it is highlighted that the perceptions of beauty has evolved past just appearances, embracing the different forms of beauty.

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I agree that the fashion industry has expanded to become more inclusive and representative of diverse opinions of beauty. For example, Farhan Hanis is a Singaporean male plus-sized model who has been defying traditional beauty standards. In a more conservative society like Singapore, males are expected to have a certain standard of beauty features such as height, jawline and hair. However, he defies these standards and is thriving, testament to the greater receptiveness of new and more accepting beauty standards and representation of all sizes in our society.

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The authors

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The authors argue that beauty is a crucial factor in seeking potential mates. This is seen in my country, where 20 per cent of Singaporean women will date a shorter man.  This is reflective of the critical role that perceptions of beauty play in our society, such that it influences the choices of Singaporeans in finding a potential mate. Singaporeans are generally focused on productivity, and beauty as an indicator of wealth and fertility would therefore carry a link towards what they would look out for in a potential partner. While some argue that beauty is not a predominant determining factor, the given statistics beg to differ.

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The author argues that the perceptions of beauty have evolved as the fashion industry has been forced to be more accountable and diverse in its depiction of beauty due to forces created by the internet. We agree with this this stand as in Singapore, younger generations have begun to move towards more progressive, inclusive views including a broader definition of beauty in the fashion industry. For example, fashion brands are increasingly venturing beyond the token plus-sized female models and banking on a diverse cast of faces. A non-binary Singaporean model by the name Alley, has worked with major publications such as Vogue, Female, Elle and Men’s Folio, breaking free from conventional gender classifications, by modelling both male and female segments. Such young models who advocate for greater acceptance of the change in diverse features. Furthermore, Vogue Singapore has come up with covers that featured a diverse range of features and races which was met with great acceptance and appreciation. Due to the large exposure that these publications have, it exposes Singaporeans to a greater range of beauty features, as well as an indication of the evolution of the perception of beauty in Singapore. As such, the shifting mindsets of the young have played a pivotal role in holding the fashion industry accountable for representing different definitions of beauty as well as embracing them.

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The authors argue that society is moving towards a culture of 'big-tent' beauty where the standards of beauty are far more inclusive and accepting of diverse forms. I agree with the author's argument that beauty standards have become more inclusive. In Singapore, we see individuals taking it upon themselves to cater to a greater range of lifestyle choices as well as races in our multicultural society. This can be seen in Sahur Saleim's beauty line. Her latest venture, the eponymous makeup line Sahur’s Art, is inspired by fine art and runs on the ethos of inclusivity. Its products are vegan, alcohol-free and cruelty-free.  She wanted customers to be able to see what the products would look like on them regardless of how they look. So she tried to be very extensive for the campaign shoot. She had five shades of lipstick, but showed nine models wearing them. Although this shows that society is moving to a more inclusive outlook on beauty,  the changes stem from individuals who faced issues due to the lack of inclusivity in major beauty brands that the individuals have to take it upon themselves to ensure they are represented and others are able to do so.

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The authors suggest that people nowadays are more inclined to support fashion labels that adopt more inclusive representations of beauty. This can be clearly seen in Singapore with a new wave of diverse models in the Singaporean modelling scene. This includes non-binary model Alley T with their androgynous style, and plus-sized Farhan Harris who has been making waves by challenging previous notions of toxic masculinity by appearing on catwalks in Singapore. This suggests that Singaporeans are beginning to embrace these once considered non-conformist ideas of beauty and accepting it as mainstream, in-line with the authors’ view that there is no longer a stereotypical way of expressing and seeing one’s beauty.

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The authors..... / While I agree with the authors' argument that.....

In Singapore..... EX + EG + EV (Consider Balance and signpost as CA pls!)

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Relevant classic ideas on the perception and value of beauty but note that article is outdated (2010) and examples cited here are global and are not as recent/modern. 

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Relevant classic ideas on the perception and value of beauty but note that article is outdated (2010) and examples cited here are global and are not as recent/modern. 

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https://amp.smh.com.au/lifestyle/is-beauty-the-key-attribute-for-success-20100415-sg8a.html

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According to Dr Catherine Hakim's controversial article in the European Sociological Review, this "beauty premium" can have as big an impact on your career as your educational qualifications or background - particularly in the private sector and service industries. Those possessing "erotic capital" can expect to earn 10-15 per cent more than those without it.

Obvious? Not necessarily. It is an elusive commodity, ownership of which is not defined by gender, age or conventional physical beauty. And the best news? If you're not born with it, you can learn to have the EC factor.

"Nowhere except in our puritanical, Anglo-Saxon culture do people see looking good as superficial," says the well-turned-out professor. "In Britain, beauty is deemed naturally worthless, and therefore one can denigrate it, but elsewhere people are open about enjoying looking at attractive men and women." Christianity, she explains, which has traditionally always been anti-sexuality, anti-beauty and anti-pleasure, is only partly responsible.

"We have this idea that you can't be beautiful and clever. But what's superficial about beauty? The Greeks and the Romans thought it was incredibly important. Cleopatra exploited her erotic capital and nobody thought the worse of her for it. Europeans feel the same today. When that semi-naked picture of Carla Bruni was released recently, they didn't see it as doing her credibility any damage - they just thought she looked fabulous."

When Dr Hakim started writing her paper and included the (then) anonymous high-class call girl Belle de Jour as an example, her colleagues were up in arms. "Then it emerged that she was Dr Brooke Magnanti, a research scientist, and they were all fine. As long as someone is intelligent as well as being sexual and attractive, then it's OK."

In this respect, feminism has done little to help the advancement of women, claims Dr Hakim. "The idea that women were making themselves look good for men and therefore should stop, was a false one. Women want to look good for all sorts of reasons." As Simone de Beauvoir, author of The Second Sex, pointed out, sexuality is in large part a performance. "One is not born knowing how to be a woman or a man," Dr Hakim writes in her piece, "one has to learn how to perform the role, as prescribed by the society you live in."

Although appearance may be a central element of erotic capital, good social skills and presentation, sexual competence and "liveliness" are also contributing factors. "Increasingly, in the affluent, service-based society we live in, people are becoming aware that those things do matter. Attractive salespeople are going to sell much more. It's not that ugly people never get roles," she cautions, "but that attractive people tend to have a bigger choice of roles to play."

All of which is now true for males too, she maintains - an argument supported by new research indicating that British men spend an average of pounds 25.22 a month on grooming products. "When the credit crunch hit, and people began to lose their jobs, newspapers were full of stories about men having plastic surgery and buying new ties in order to look their best in a competitive job market. It's not enough for men to be the bread-winners any more - they are expected to be attractive and well-groomed, too."

Topping Dr Hakim's "erotic capital" power list in Britain are David Beckham and Kate Moss, while across the pond the Obamas best epitomise the phenomenon. Other obvious erotic capitalists are music mogul Simon Cowell (whose shtick - teeth included - has netted him pounds 123 million), top TV executive Elisabeth Murdoch (who, with her husband Matthew Freud, is said to be worth pounds 148 million), Net-a-Porter founder Natalie Massenet (who has made an estimated fortune of pounds 53 million selling the designer garments she models so well), Nick and Christian Candy (the property barons behind pretty much every high-end London deal made over the past decade), George Clooney ("who looks good but is a very clever man, too," and the millionaire philanthropist Arpad Busson ("Have you ever heard of any other hedge-fund manager?"). Gordon Ramsay, whose personality - perhaps more than his culinary skills - has made him pounds 67 million, is another obvious example.

"The point about erotic capital is that both sexes immediately warm to people who have it." Isn't that simply charisma? "No," contends Dr Hakim. "Kate Moss, who avoids speaking in public, has erotic capital purely from a visual/behavioural perspective, yet I wouldn't say she has charisma. To have erotic capital, you have to have substance."

Yet substance alone is not enough to give you the sought-after quality - as politicians so ably demonstrate. "Gordon Brown may be very confident as a politician but the public perception is that he is dour, unapproachable and lacking in exactly what Tony Blair had. Yet we were persuaded by Blair and he left us feeling cheated, so in this election we may find ourselves suspicious of politicians possessing erotic capital."

We have this idea that you can't be beautiful and clever. But what's superficial about beauty?

In America, where they have long been natural believers in Dr Hakim's term, the Obamas gave off enough erotic capital to float a multi-national corporation. "From his presentation to the way he looks and speaks, Obama's got it. Even during the campaign, he and his wife were said to work out on Air Force One, and their physical fitness plays a large part in that allure. Michelle didn't want to be wheeled out as 'the wife' in the beginning, but in the end she made a tremendous effort and showed that she had this ability to connect with people. Remember all those British schoolgirls lining up for a hug from Michelle? That's erotic capital. Because of them [the Obamas] it has become more acceptable for politicians' wives to be wheeled out here, too."

Should the leaders' wives - each deploying their own kind of erotic capital - guard against unleashing a surfeit of it? Isn't that what dashed Sarah Palin's dreams of presidency? "No," snaps Dr Hakim. "I think that was her being a bit dim."

For many the EC factor can increase over time. "Both Tina Turner and Catherine Deneuve have it - it isn't as narrow or fleeting as facial beauty, so it won't automatically vanish once you reach a certain age. A lot of men and women are unpolished when younger and acquire better dress sense and social skills as they get older."

So, if you're not born with it, you can develop it. "Of course: just look at Coleen Rooney," grins Dr Hakim. It's true that books have been written about Hillary Clinton's miraculous "extreme makeover", while the Tory leader, David Cameron, is said to be seeking the help of political consultant Anita Dunn, responsible for enhancing Obama's appeal to middle and working-class women.

"As a country, I think we will all get better at it naturally," says Dr Hakim. "We'll pick up European values and learn that looking smarter and being more presentable is an essential part of life - one it'll become increasingly difficult to do without."
The London Daily Telegraph

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Is beauty the key attribute for success?

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According to Dr Catherine Hakim's controversial article in the European Sociological Review, this "beauty premium" can have as big an impact on your career as your educational qualifications or background - particularly in the private sector and service industries. Those possessing "erotic capital" can expect to earn 10-15 per cent more than those without it.

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https://www.herworld.com/gallery/beauty/makeup/impacts-makeup-mental-health/

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We put on makeup for a variety of reasons. Some of us enjoy experimenting with different looks. Others need to put on their 'face' before they can feel themselves. And then there are women who simply love the way they look with make-up.

Not everyone is a fan of makeup though. Some think it makes women seem superficial - or even hiding their true selves. Or that it's shallow to be obsessed with new shades of lipstick or the latest makeup trends.

But did you know that makeup can actually be good for your mental health? While it's always best to be comfortable in your own skin, makeup can also do wonders for your mental wellbeing.

This World Mental Health Day (10 October), we delve into how make-up could help to boost not just the way you look but your mental health too.

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7 surprising ways makeup could help your mental health

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Give your mental health a boost by indulging in your daily makeup ritual

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https://www.straitstimes.com/life/style/meet-the-singaporean-models-who-are-blazing-a-trail

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Meet the inclusive Singaporean models who are blazing a trail

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SINGAPORE - In a departure from their usual line-up, fashion brands are increasingly venturing beyond the token plus-sized female model and banking on a diverse cast of faces. Read more at straitstimes.com.

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Around 78% of Singapore consumers care about diversity and inclusion (D&I) and want to do more to help promote D&I causes. A vast majority of consumers agree that diversity is important to the future of their country as they (74%) believe that their individual actions have a significant impact in helping support D&I causes. Due to this belief, 55% of consumers have changed their shopping habits to help support these causes.

As the world we live in is increasingly becoming a diverse one, D&I are key industry topics ushering in a new era of responsible marketing and advertising. In fact, more than 90% of advertisers say that reducing bias and discrimination in marketing is now a priority as well. Nearly three in four consumers actively consume content related to D&I.

These numbers are found by an online survey Integral Ad Science ran among Singapore consumers to better understand consumer attitudes toward D&I overall and in digital advertising specifically. This study explores why diversity matters in advertising and measures how inclusive messaging affects consumer sentiment, receptivity and purchase behaviour. Furthermore, this report gauges the impact that contextual adjacency has on consumer sentiment and behaviour in relation to brands' D&I efforts.

Around 88% of consumers think advertisers and brands should make an effort to place ads around content that promotes diversity as local consumers believe that it's important for advertisers and brands to promote diversity and inclusion in their advertising and media buys too.

About 63% of Singapore consumers would be likely to engage with an ad that appears alongside content that promotes diversity and inclusion efforts, and 65% would be likely to purchase a product or service from an ad that appears alongside content that promotes diversity and inclusion efforts.

If brands don't include D&I efforts, almost half (40%) of consumers would most likely not even interact or purchase products from ads placed alongside content that oppose D&I.

Around 38% of consumers also say that engagement with an ad would also decrease as consumers would feel less favourable towards a brand that has an ad that appears alongside content that opposes D&I efforts.

The brand and content surrounding the ad can be linked in the minds of Singapore consumers, impacting ad performance and brand perception. So it isn't surprising that staggering 81% of local consumers believe that brands have a responsibility to reflect our modern culture and that 63% of consumers hold advertisers most responsible for th type of content ads appear near, the study said.

If brands don't take D&I seriously, around 47% of consumers would most likely boycott a brand. That is a pretty big number for brands to take on.

Loyal customers (57%) that have been fans of a brand for a long time might switch from a brand if the brand demonstrates poor diversity and inclusion values.
Including D&I in ads
The D&I factors that brands can consider in their campaigns are race, gender identity, age and socio-economic status. However, brands should also take note of using D&I in their ads solely for increasing their profits as 56% of Singapore consumers are aware of that. When brands do that, consumers are wary of these hollow or inauthentic attempts to address diversity in advertising.

Advertisers have to be careful of the content surrounding an ad, as consumers can associate brands with the content which will lead them to believe that advertisers may be endorsing adjacent content. Around 73% of Singapore consumers believe advertisers approve of the content near their ads.
Don't miss: Will podcasts be the next arena for brand safety issues?
A large majority of Singapore consumers agree that brands should reflect modern culture, and also be involved in social conversations around diversity and inclusion. Meanwhile, 81% of Singapore consumers believe that brands have a responsibility to reflect our modern culture

There is an expectation for fashion (65%), food/beverage (55%) and retail (52%) brands to advocate for D&I. They are the top advertisers consumers expect to advocate for D&I.

According to the survey, there are benefits for brands to place advertisements around content that promotes D&I. Ultimately, Singapore consumers hold advertisers and brands most responsible for the type of content ads appear with - but publishers also have a role to play.
Related articles: How Crayola coloured the world with diversity through crayons
Study: Majority of APAC consumers care about diversity, equity and inclusion
Global make up brand Laura Mercier's SG ad grilled for lack of diversity in KOL choice

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Quick stats: Around 78% of SG consumers care about D&I efforts in ads

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About 63% of Singapore consumers would be likely to engage with an ad that appears alongside content that promotes diversity and inclusion.

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https://sg.yougov.com/en-sg/news/2017/11/29/partner-attributes/#:~:text=The%20battle%20between%20looks%20and,of%20men%20say%20the%20same.

The battle between looks and personality is a classic dating dilemma, and the research shows that Singaporeans overwhelmingly come down on the side of personality. 85% of women in Singapore rank personality as more important than good looks, whereas 72% of men say the same.

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When people look for love, what is thing they prize most highly? A new 20-country YouGov international study examines which attributes people most prioritise in a partner. The results are good news for the romantics, as across the planet personality is prized ahead of looks.
Singapore
Here in Singapore, personality is by far the most important attribute. Among both men and women, 50% rank having "a personality I like" as the characteristic they prioritise most highly in a romantic partner (and a further 22% rank it as the second most important).

Sense of humour comes next, with 24% ranking it second (along with the 16% of women and 8% of men who rank it first).

Men and women differ most on the importance of looks, as Singaporean men place a noticeably higher stock than women in a partner's physical appearance. While 70% of men rank good looks in their top three priorities, this figure is just 30% for women.

The battle between looks and personality is a classic dating dilemma, and the research shows that Singaporeans overwhelmingly come down on the side of personality. 85% of women in Singapore rank personality as more important than good looks, whereas 72% of men say the same.
International results
The preference for personality over looks is replicated across the globe. the overall results in every country surveyed show that people are more likely to rank personality as more important than good looks. The only deviation from this trend comes among Vietnamese men among whom only 46% rank personality more highly than good looks (compared to 64% of Vietnamese women).

In each of the 20 countries studied women are more pro-personality than men. This difference was most pronounced in Saudi Arabia (where 79% of women ranked personality more highly than looks, compared to 52% of men, a difference of 28 points) and Egypt (83% of women compared to 55% of men, also a difference of 28 points).

Women in the Nordic countries place the most stock in a partner's personality - it is ranked as the single most important attribute by 73% of Swedish women, 69% of Danish women, 66% of Norwegian women and 59% of Finnish women.
Click here to see the chart for men or women
By contrast, those who are most fixated on looks are Vietnamese men (44% of whom ranked it is the single most important characteristic a partner could have), Indonesian men (35%), Saudi Arabian men (also 35%), Thai men (33%) and Hong Kong men (also 33%).
Love notes
The study finds that the countries where a partner having decent financial means is the most valued attribute are Malaysia (where 36% of women ranked it as a top-three priority), Vietnam (32%) and Indonesia (30%).

However, it should be noted that in all of these countries (and, indeed, all countries surveyed) women are still much more likely to rate a partner's personality, sense of humour and intelligence as a more important attribute than wealth.
See the full results here Photo source: Getty Image

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20-country study finds that people are more likely to value a partner's personality over their looks

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When people look for love, what is thing they prize most highly? A new 20-country YouGov international study examines which attributes people most prioritise in a partner.

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https://www.todayonline.com/world/indias-brown-beauty-make-influencers-go-global-2145376?cid=telegram_tg-single_social-free_26012019_today

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MUMBAI - Under the glow of a ring light in the spare bedroom of a Mumbai high-rise apartment, Indian make-up maven Debasree Banerjee has found fans across the world with a simple philosophy: B rown is beautiful.

Ms Banerjee's audience includes women from as far afield as the Middle East and US who also have a deeper complexion but have historically been overlooked by the cosmetics industry.

"I actually have a lot of followers who are outside India, and I feel like it's probably because our skin tones match," Ms Banerjee told AFP.

"They can see how the product looks like on my skin tone, how the lipstick applies on my skin tone, and just have that sense of belongingness."

Ms Banerjee, 34, began experimenting with make-up videos in her spare time a decade ago, after graduating from university and moving to Mumbai to work in sales.

She is now a full-time beauty and lifestyle influencer, teaching more than half a million followers how to beautify themselves on Instagram and YouTube.

Early inspirations included British beauty content creators Tanya Burr and Fleur De Force - both white and with millions of followers between them.

But Ms Banerjee said she had found no role models who resembled her.

She credits Rihanna for the seismic shift towards greater inclusiveness in the cosmetics industry.

In 2017, the pop superstar launched her make-up line Fenty Beauty, which offered 40 shades of foundation and turned her into a billionaire.

"Fenty Beauty really, really changed the game," Ms Banerjee said. "I think that's when people knew that this is important."

While other international brands have tried to keep up, many still have "miles and miles to go" before they can be considered truly inclusive, she added.

"I still see products being launched in three shades, in four shades, calling them 'universal'. And it's just ridiculous," Ms Banerjee said.

"In India, everywhere you go... you see our features changing, our language changing, our skin colour changing. So it's very, very important to have more inclusive make-up."

'LEARNING TO LOVE OURSELVES'

Cheap internet data, rising income levels and the world's largest population of young people have fuelled an explosion in India's beauty and personal care market.

The industry is now worth US$15 billion (S$20 billion) nationally each year, with Euromonitor projecting that figure will double by 2030.

Homegrown e-commerce platform Nykaa - which helped make global cosmetic brands easily available to Indians for the first time - was one of India's most-anticipated IPOs in 2021.

"People thought brown skin is not pretty," Ms Faby, another beauty influencer living in Mumbai, told AFP. "But now we've started learning to love ourselves."

Ms Faby has nearly 900,000 Instagram followers and has established herself as one of India's top cosmetic stylists, recently teaming up with top Bollywood actress Deepika Padukone to promote a skincare line.

Almost her entire apartment has been refashioned into a studio with professional lights, camera equipment and retractable backdrops to stylise her regular online tutorials.

The work can be taxing, with some daylong shoots lasting until well after midnight, but the money Ms Faby makes from brand collaborations is enough to comfortably support both herself and her mother.

"It has been difficult, but now I can have my own Dior bag, I can have whatever I want," said Ms Faby. "It's all because of the followers who are watching."

'LOOK MORE BEAUTIFUL'

India's government belatedly recognised the explosive growth of online content creation last year, announcing a 10 per cent tax on promotional gifts worth over 20,000 rupees (S$324).

That move brought part of the country's US$120 million influencer market under the tax net - chiefly those advertising products beyond the purchasing power of the vast majority of Indians.

A single lipstick by a prominent international brand can cost around 2,000 rupees locally - more than what half of India's households pay for their weekly groceries, according to British market research firm Kantar.

But the gap between material desires and means has proven to be fertile ground for other Indian influencers showing their audiences how to keep on-trend without breaking the bank.

"There are many people who cannot afford expensive products, so my DIY shows them how to look more beautiful," Ms Kavita Jadon, 34, told AFP.

From her home a couple of hours' drive from the capital New Delhi, the housewife and mother-of-two makes videos showing how to make ersatz concealers out of moisturiser and coffee grinds, at a fraction of the cost of name-brand products.

Despite filming from a cheap phone, editing with free software, and lacking Ms Banerjee and Ms Faby's elaborate studio setups, Ms Jadon has amassed more than 169,000 followers on Facebook.

Many of her homemade product ideas are the result of painstaking trial and error, with her audience eagerly sharing their own ideas or petitioning her with requests.

"Using products from big brands is not essential - it's possible to use local products and create beauty products at home too," she said.

"That's why my page has grown so significantly." AFP

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India's 'brown beauty' make-up influencers go global

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MUMBAI - Under the glow of a ring light in the spare bedroom of a Mumbai high-rise apartment, Indian make-up maven Debasree Banerjee has found fans across the world with a simple philosophy: Brown is beautiful.

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Influencer and makeup maven Sahur Saleim on inclusivity in beauty

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It's so easy to have a conversation with Sahur Saleim, even if you're a stranger that she's just met. The 23-year-old popped up on Zoom, clad in a loose Metallica T-shirt, bare-faced with her hair pulled back into two fishtail braids. Never mind that she had just recovered from a bout of food poisoning over the weekend - you wouldn't be able to tell from her upbeat, high energy tone. The makeup maven sounds exactly like how she presents herself in her video tutorials that have endeared her to 303K followers and counting on Instagram (@sahursart): bubbly, animated and sincere.

Since the beginning of her social media career, it is clear that Sahur stands for inclusivity. She doesn't filter away her acne or the resulting post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, and her beauty tutorials feature not only herself but also other women, showcasing her artistry on a myriad of skin tones, textures and facial features. Her latest venture, the eponymous makeup line Sahur's Art, is inspired by fine art and runs on the ethos of inclusivity. Its products are vegan, alcohol-free and cruelty-free.

"Nothing gets approved till I've seen it on at least three different skin tones," she says. "I cannot imagine launching a brand without inclusivity being at the forefront."

As of now, there's the Mona eyeshadow palette ($48), which features 10 highly pigmented shades, and The Kiss ($23), a long-wearing liquid lipstick range in five colours. There's another eyeshadow palette that is "more fun" in the works, but Sahur is coy about the details. What she does share, though, is how she bootstrapped a business in the midst of a global pandemic, her strong stance on representation, and her journey towards self-acceptance.

Congratulations on the launch of Sahur's Art (@sahursartbeauty)! What made you decide to create your own beauty brand?
It's been one of my dreams ever since I was young. I did accounting and finance in university, and my plan was to work as an accountant for 10 to 15 years, save up some money, have my own salon and then launch my own makeup line once I have some sort of reputation as a makeup artist. But thanks to social media, things kind of sped up a little bit.

Your business is entirely self-funded, with no bank loans, no investors and no money from family. Was bootstrapping scary for you?
It was terrifying! I basically put all the money I've ever made, everything I've saved over the past two- and-a-half years, into the business. There were points when I thought that if this doesn't work out, then years of savings would disappear into thin air. I had a lot of anxiety over it for a while, but eventually I came to see it as an investment in myself and my future - if I work hard and my brand is successful, it could completely change my life. I felt a lot more assured once I stopped seeing it as a waste of money.

You had to halt production many times because of Covid-19. What was the whole process like?
Everything that could go wrong, went wrong. I started looking for a manufacturer in October 2018, when I was still in university, to help formulate the eyeshadow. It took me a whole year - a lot of labs have a minimum order quantity of hundreds of thousands of units, and it just wasn't feasible. I eventually found someone in China that I was happy with and could afford, and by December 2019, I had my final prototype ready. I transferred the deposit to my supplier in January, right before the Chinese New Year weekend, and I'm sure you know what happened right after that.

As time passed, I just didn't see the Covid situation getting better and I didn't know when they could start work, so I decided to move production to Italy, even though it was going to be so much more expensive, and I'd have to restart the whole process. Within the next couple of months, Italy also started shutting down. The same thing happened with our lipsticks, which are manufactured in Turkey.

What was going through your mind when all of that happened?
Not nice things (laughs). I was an absolute wreck, there was so much uncertainty and I didn't know what to expect. I persevered because I just really wanted to have a finished product to show everyone - I had been working on this consistently for almost a year and a half with nothing to show for it. I couldn't let all this hard work go to waste.

How are your products different from what's already out there?
First is the comfort matte formula. When I was formulating the lipsticks last year, I was also on Accutane for acne. Accutane ruins your lips - it dries them out so much. Throughout that year, I couldn't wear any matte lipsticks, even though they're my favourite. So without realising it, I ended up formulating my matte liquid lipsticks to be hydrating and comfortable, while still being matte. They're really long-wearing as well.

Then there is our Mona palette. It's vegan and cruelty- free, which makes it really hard to formulate intense colours, especially the reds because carmine (which comes from crushed beetles) is used to create the red pigments. It took a lot of back and forth to get that right. The formula is super easy to blend, and the palette is very beginner-friendly because I want people who are just starting to do makeup to feel welcome, not intimidated, by it. But it's also good for those who are experienced - there are pops of colour that they can use to create more complex or fun looks.

One of the ethos for Sahur's Art is that it's inclusive. Why is that important to you?
It's a given. Yes, I'm a makeup artist and I have experience trying so many different products. But if it only works for me, is it really a good product or does it just work for me, you know what I mean?

As I was working on the brand, I found that a lot of people don't get as much representation as they should. I have a platform that I can use for the better, and because we're currently only available online, I want customers to be able to see what the products would look like on them. So I tried to be very extensive for the campaign shoot. I had five shades of lipstick, but showed nine models wearing them. It was a lot of work to organise, but I think it's important.

What does beauty inclusivity mean to you?
Including people from all walks of life and celebrating the way that beauty is across different cultures, sizes, shapes, hair, etc. I feel like brands can do more. You can have people who are very, very different. In Sahur's Art's campaign photos, there was a lot of contrast and juxtaposition, and I felt like that made them more beautiful.

Do you experience creative burnout? Do you feel social media fatigue as well?
Honestly, it happens very often, and what I like to do is to just step away a little bit. It's normal, and it's good to be a bit more understanding with yourself. I'm really lucky because my followers are quite understanding and compassionate too. I've never had people going like, "Ugh what are you saying, influencers don't even do any work". Instead it's always, "Take care of yourself", "Get some rest", or "I hope you're doing OK".

On the flip side, how do you deal with mean comments?
I started at 18, and it used to affect me a lot. I had really bad acne at that time and didn't think much of it, but I used to get really awful comments. They were all about my acne and nothing on the makeup look, which was discouraging. Mentally, it's important to differentiate between a hate comment and constructive criticism. So if my foundation match looks off and people point that out, I'd be like "Yeah maybe they're right, they don't mean anything malicious by this". Then there are people who are like, "Your face looks like a Crunch bar". What do you gain from saying this? If someone is just being rude, you cannot live if you take it personally. I think misery loves company, so I never entertain that sort of stuff. I won't reply. I don't even delete the comments or block those people.
PHOTOGRAPHY Wee Khim, assisted by Alwyn Oh
CREATIVE DIRECTION Windy Aulia
HAIR & MAKEUPSha Shamsi & Nikki Fu, using Chanel & Keune This article first appeared in the July 2021 issue of Her World.

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Influencer and makeup maven Sahur Saleim on inclusivity in beauty

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The CEO of her own beauty brand, Sahur Saleim is taking a strong stance on representation through her makeup line.

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Not a relevant example for the topic of beauty here. 

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Not a relevant example for the topic of beauty here. 

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(CNN) An ethnically Chinese actor who allegedly darkened his skin to portray characters of different races in an advertisement has sparked a "brownface" controversy in multi-ethnic Singapore.

Part of a government initiative to promote electronic payments, the ad features actor Dennis Chew, from the city state broadcaster Mediacorp, dressed as four characters, including what appears to be a Malay woman wearing a headscarf.

It has since been taken down.

Singapore is known for being a well-integrated, multiracial society. Its population is more than 75% ethnically Chinese, 15% ethnic Malay and 7% ethnic Indian, according to the Singaporean Prime Minister's Office.

Critics online have questioned why Malay actors were not hired to portray themselves in the ad.

"Brownface in a Singaporean ad in 2019. I thought we already went over this," posted Ruby Thiagarajan, editor-in-chief of a Singaporean cultural magazine.

Another Twitter user asked: "They could've hired an artist for every single race?? Is it really that hard?"

But some defended the ad, with one Twitter user posting: "As a Malay I find this funny. We also play Chinese characters from time to time, so I don't really feel offended."

Havas Worldwide, the agency hired to create the ad, and Mediacorp's talent management group, The Celebrity Agency, have since apologized for the controversy.

"The message behind this advertising campaign is that e-payment is for everyone," Havas Worldwide and The Celebrity Agency (TCA) said in a joint statement to CNN.

"For that reason, Dennis Chew, well-known for his ability to portray multiple characters in a single production in a light-hearted way, was selected as the face of the campaign. He appears as characters from different walks of life in Singapore, bringing home the point that everyone can e-pay."

The Singapore incident follows a number of recent "blackface" controversies.

In February, pop star Katy Perry's namesake brand faced a backlash for two shoe designs that resembled blackface, while Gucci apologized for a black sweater that featured large red lips. American fashion model Gigi Hadid also faced criticism last year for her allegedly darkened appearance on the cover of Vogue Italia.

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(CNN) An ethnically Chinese actor who allegedly darkened his skin to portray characters of different races in an advertisement has sparked a "brownface" controversy in multi-ethnic Singapore. Part of a government initiative to promote electronic payments, the ad features actor Dennis Chew, from the city state broadcaster Mediacorp, dressed as four characters, including what appears to be a Malay woman wearing a headscarf.

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https://tnp.straitstimes.com/news/singapore/miss-universe-singapore-2021-more-just-pretty-face

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Winning a pageant takes more than surface-level beauty, and the newly crowned winner of Miss Universe Singapore (MUS) 2021 is testament to that.

Miss Nandita Banna backs up her victory with strong education credentials, high career ambitions and a deep sense of social justice.

She attended Raffles Girls' School and Raffles Institution and is currently a third-year double degree student at Singapore Management University, majoring in business management and information systems (business analytics).

The 21-year-old undergrad told The New Paper that it is important not to pigeonhole women, saying: "Just because someone is beautiful does not mean she is not going to be smart, or if she goes to a good school that she will not focus on interests outside of it."

She added: "Most women nowadays are well-rounded individuals, and we are interested in our education and furthering our careers, but we also have creative outlets.

"For me, it is modelling and dance. For others, it could be music or painting. We are multi-faceted individuals and we shouldn't be judged on only the one or two things we are seen doing."

Miss Nandita, who is 1.76m tall and has been modelling professionally since 2017, never harboured any ambitions on joining a pageant but did so at the urging of her modelling agent.

"The typical image of a pageant girl - great smile, beautiful hair - I didn't think I had any of that," she said.

"But I signed up to push myself, try something new and build my confidence."

She juggled preparing for MUS with school and an internship with a data analytics firm. Her efforts culminated in her crowning moment on Sept 17.

Miss Nandita, who hopes to have a career in a field that combines data analytics and urban planning, said she felt honoured to be bestowed the MUS title.

"It is easy to assume a pageant is just about beautiful girls in swimsuits and to write it off. But Miss Universe has come a long way from that, and it now embraces people of various colours and body shapes and also transgender women.

"It gives the platform for participants to change the perception of what beauty can be and an opportunity for us to stand up for causes we believe in."

One of those causes for Miss Nandita is racial harmony in Singapore.

Miss Nandita, whose parents came to Singapore from India before she was born, was deeply affected when a slew of race- related incidents made the news earlier this year, including the one involving a lecturer who accosted an interracial couple in public.

Though she has never been a victim of any outright and egregious acts of racism, she has experienced casual racism before, including comments that she looked "beautiful for an Indian", being teased about her accent and being asked if she really was a Singaporean.

Miss Nandita said: "I hope I can use my position to remind people to embrace diversity, and that we wouldn't be here if not for the contribution of the different communities."

Ensuring racist incidents are highlighted and organising community events to bring people of different backgrounds together are some of the ways she hopes to use her title to further the cause.

For now, she is gearing up to represent Singapore at the 70th Miss Universe competition in Eilat, Israel, in December.

She said: "I am a bit nervous going up against women from countries that have strong pageant cultures, and many of them are much more experienced than me. But I have faith in myself that I will be well prepared to at least give them good competition.

"Also, it has been so long since I travelled, and I am looking forward to visiting a place I have never been before."

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Miss Universe Singapore 2021 is more than just a pretty face

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Winning a pageant takes more than surface-level beauty, and the newly crowned winner of Miss Universe Singapore (MUS) 2021 is testament to that. Miss Nandita Banna backs up her victory with strong education credentials, high career ambitions and a deep sense of social...

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https://www.todayonline.com/singapore/singaporean-women-prefer-taller-and-richer-men-believe-men-should-make-first-move-survey

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Singaporean women prefer taller and richer men, believe men should make first move: Survey

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SINGAPORE - If you are a single man looking to date a Singaporean woman, your odds of finding a match would be a lot higher if you were tall and rich.

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https://asia.nikkei.com/Editor-s-Picks/Tea-Leaves/Thailand-s-revolution-in-beauty-standards-only-skin-deep

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Tea Leaves

Latest choices might break the mold but Miss Universe contest holds Thailand back from broader social change

Jasmine Chia and Pear Maneechote

When the broad-shouldered, athletic Anchilee "Ann" Scott-Kemmis was crowned Miss Universe Thailand in late October, local and foreign media portrayed the moment as a win for Thai women everywhere. "Thailand has grown to appreciate more athleticism in a female body," claimed a regional media report. "The standard of beauty [queens] has been shaken to the core," stated Thai publication Khaosod English, heralding a new era of "real-sized" beauty.

In reality, such claims are misleading, or even disingenuous. For most Thai women who still skip meals, spend inordinate amounts on beauty treatments and diet obsessively in pursuit of the skeletal, pale-skinned ideal, beauty standards still reflect the prejudices we grew up with.

Sponsored Content

About Sponsored Content This content was commissioned by Nikkei's Global Business Bureau.

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Thailand's 'revolution' in beauty standards only skin-deep

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When the broad-shouldered, athletic Anchilee "Ann" Scott-Kemmis was crowned Miss Universe Thailand in late October, local and foreign media portrayed

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Ah Girls Go Army actress Xixi Lim calls out netizen who fat-shamed her

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She said: "Everyone is unique and everyone deserves to be loved no matter how you look." Read more at straitstimes.com.

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I 've always thought of myself as smart, not pretty. For much of my childhood and adolescence, friends, family, and even strangers would make intrusive comments about my appearance, offering unhelpful advice on how to decrease the width of my hip bones, fix my textured face, or smooth out my thick, curly hair. As a self-proclaimed nerdy feminist who grew up in the "girl boss" era, I would always promptly respond, "I want to be successful, not beautiful."

It wasn't until I was older that I realized the two often go together.

One afternoon, after a visit to the mall with my parents when I was sixteen, the three of us sat down at a nearby Moxies- or Earls-type restaurant. The teenage waitress was dressed in a typical uniform: a tight black skirt and fitted long-sleeve shirt. After she took my family's order, my dad quipped to my mom, "Look at the way that waitress looks." My mom agreed. "That's what men like, right, Ashley?" Brimming with anxiety, I looked up at my dad, my face contorted. "That's what you should look like so you could work here," he said matter-of-factly.

Many of us are well aware that the workforce doesn't treat women-especially women of colour-fairly. In Canada, a 2017 study found the gender pay gap to be 11 percent, and women are also far less likely to be promoted or to hold leadership positions. But this was the first time it was made clear to me that beauty is an additional barrier. Looking the part can be a determinant of who gets a job and who doesn't, who succeeds and who fails, or even whose labour we value most.

In an article for The Cut, titled " Yes, Beautiful People Have a Totally Different Experience of Life," writer Drake Baer discusses the beauty premium in the labour market, where workers who are more attractive have a higher level of confidence, which leads to higher wages. One study from Iza World of Labor found that attractive workers earn around 10 to 15 percent more than average-looking ones. That's in addition to those workers being more likely to get the job in the first place and to receive better evaluations.

However, this beauty premium also reveals a more sinister side of work. The entertainment industry has perfected the concept of objectifying women for financial gain. But other industries, especially restaurant and retail, are equally guilty of the same exploitation. And in a world where the pressure of presentation feels unavoidable, many workers feel the need to take on the additional burden of aesthetic labour-that is, the time and cost put into looking, sounding, and even acting the part-in order to succeed.

W e all have a mental image of what each profession looks like, whether it's the white coat-wearing doctor or the lawyer in a power suit. And whether consciously or not, odds are you've performed some form of aesthetic labour over the course of your professional life.

According to Joya Misra, a provost professor of sociology and public policy at the University of Massachusetts Amherst who studies social inequality, different beauty expectations based on class, age, gender, and race exist for workers. Certain professions can have more intense restrictions than others, she adds.

At many establishments, servers are expected to be well groomed, without any visible tattoos, facial piercings, or extreme hair or cosmetic styles, though some have dress codes that have become more flexible in recent years. The specific uniform varies, but most require form-fitting pants, skirts, and shirts. Then there are the "breastaurants," like Hooters, where low-cut tank tops and skimpy bottoms have historically been required. (In 2021, Hooters introduced a new uniform-causing much controversy-that included shorts more closely resembling underwear, though the policy was later rolled back.) In Japan, most women are required to wear high heels in the workplace. Female politicians and businesswomen are often heavily criticized for their outfits in a way that their male counterparts aren't. In many cases, those who don't abide by these arbitrary standards risk repercussions, including losing their jobs. In 2011, a Winnipeg waitress was fired for shaving her head. A few years earlier, the same thing had happened to a Las Vegas bartender who refused to wear makeup-a decision that was upheld in court.

Christin El-Kholy knows about these pressures better than most. Now thirty-two years old and a full-time graduate student, she started working in the service industry at the age of sixteen. Coming from a family of Egyptian immigrants who got their start in Canada as dishwashers, El-Kholy was used to getting her hands dirty and being bare faced at work. But, she tells me, she had to invest more in her appearance in order to survive once she started working in customer-facing jobs.

While working at Le Château, her first retail job, when she was sixteen, El-Kholy says, she was expected to wear dresses. "I was always pretty simple. . . . I had, like, a very basic way of getting ready," she recalls. "After starting, [my bosses] would tell me, 'Oh, you have to dress a little more girly.'" Later, while working at Moxies and Joey's, she was shocked to see how many regulations existed, from how high her heels had to be to how her naturally curly hair had to be styled. It took her about an hour each day to straighten her hair and apply makeup and then another hour to commute from Scarborough to Toronto for work. In a 2012 study by YouGov America, 38 percent of women who responded, compared to 21 percent of men, said that they spend more than thirty minutes getting ready in the morning.

In addition to the time investment and psychological stress that goes into presenting oneself a certain way in the workplace, there's also an undeniable financial component. A 2017 survey by SkinStore found that the average American woman uses sixteen products each day. That works out to about $9 a day for a woman who works in Delaware and $11 per day for one who works in New York. Over the course of her lifetime, the survey estimated, the average New York woman will spend about $300,000 on makeup.

I myself have working-class, racialized friends who have spent hundreds of dollars on beauty procedures while living paycheque to paycheque. One of my cousins even used her hard-earned money to buy a new purse instead of a textbook for a university class she needed to graduate. I remember her squealing about the bag, telling me she looked like the "ladies who work in offices." I'm not shaming them, because I've been there too. When I was younger, I wanted to be a chemist and create a makeup brand for darker skin tones. In my mind, I took the saying "Dress for the job you want, not the job you have" literally. I gleaned what a scientist should look like from television-think Gwen Stacy from Spider-Man -and wanted to look like that too. In my third year of university, I tried to pay-with my student loans-for a nose job and a laser skin resurfacing procedure, which the doctor refused to do. A good five years of my youth were spent starving myself, micromanaging my facial expressions, and monitoring my high-pitched voice to fit my idea of a scientist and, later, a journalist.

Some have been quick to criticize other women for striving to uphold these beauty standards in the first place, saying that they should simply reject them altogether. On an episode of the NPR podcast Code Switch, Noliwe Rooks, an associate professor at Cornell University, argued that people should instead attempt to decolonize Western beauty standards. However, it's often much more complicated. Pushing back against employment standards is a privilege, since not everyone can afford to jeopardize their employment-especially at a time when, according to the Canadian Centre for Policy Alternatives, over "28 percent of Indigenous Peoples and 31 percent of racialized individuals live with economic insecurity, compared to 16 percent of white individuals." Coupled with unfair wages, these factors force racialized folks-who make up about 21 percent of the general workforce but account for 22 percent of retail and 30 percent of hospitality work, according to 2016 census data used in a Future Skills Centre report-to take on the additional burden of having to advocate for themselves when it comes to beauty standards.

According to Misra, many retail companies have a racial beauty hierarchy: white on top; a mix of various racial groups such as Latinx, Middle Eastern, or Asian or multiracial people in the second tier; and then visibly Black people at the bottom. This hierarchy, she adds, dictates who gets the best schedules and raises. As part of her research for her new book, Walking Mannequins: How Race and Gender Inequalities Shape Retail Clothing Work, she interviewed former and present retail workers about their experiences. "As women's skin tones got darker and darker, they were treated less and less well," she says.

Just look at Abercrombie & Fitch. In Netflix's 2022 documentary, White Hot: The Rise & Fall of Abercrombie & Fitch, former employees criticized the retailer's strict practice of only hiring "hot" people (meaning white, blond, and fit). Former workers discussed how they were rated on their appearance. Those who had higher scores were given more shifts, while employees with lower rankings, many of whom were Asian or Black, were slowly given fewer shifts until they weren't on the schedule. Despite the successful class action lawsuit that was filed against the company in 2003-which claimed that its "looking the part" policy was discriminatory toward Asian American, African American, and Latino individuals-Abercrombie & Fitch continued to adhere to its unfair standards for employees. In 2015, Samantha Elauf, a Muslim fashion blogger, filed a charge against the company when she was denied a job because she wears a hijab; the US Supreme Court ruled in her favour, and she was awarded $20,000 (US) in damages. It's not just women who are discriminated against. Last July, the World Sikh Organization reported that discriminatory dress-code policies were forcing Sikh security guards out of their jobs because some companies required their workers to be clean shaven, meaning those with religiously mandated beards would not be eligible for employment.

If employers are going to continue to push for restrictive dress codes, Misra suggests, workers should also be compensated for what it takes to meet those standards. According to Misra, this is a form of wage theft, and employers should be accounting, in their employees' overall work hours and pay, for the time and resources they spend on meeting such standards. If workers need specific outfits or makeup, employers need to cover the associated costs. If it takes a worker an hour to get ready, they should be able to count that toward their work hours.

And perhaps we're starting to see some progress. A few years ago, over 7,000 employees filed a class action lawsuit against Cosmopolitan Casino in Las Vegas after the company implemented a policy whereby workers were required to change into their uniforms on site but without pay for that time: the employer negotiated a $10 million settlement with the workers. In Canada, some workplaces have, at the very least, started to relax their dress codes. In Ottawa, a group of hospital workers challenged a policy that banned visible tattoos and piercings and won, while in 2018, the Canadian Union of Public Employees filed a human rights violation charge against Air Canada for its policies on uniforms and makeup.

As I've gotten older, I've still felt the pressure to become beautiful and stay beautiful, but I'm often reminded of my younger self, sitting in that restaurant, thinking to myself that I'd rather be smart. I hope, one day, we won't be judged by our appearances so much.

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How workplace beauty norms affect women's lives on-and off-the clock

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https://tdy.sg/3ehwOVC

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#trending: '50 shades of ivory' - Laura Mercier's beauty campaign in Singapore draws flak for poor skin tone representation

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SINGAPORE - An advertising campaign by beauty brand Laura Mercier has drawn flak from online users for featuring people who appear to have lighter skin tones in the campaign videos.

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The authors argue that the perceptions of beauty have evolved as the fashion industry has been forced to be more accountable and diverse in its depiction of beauty due to the forces created by the Internet. (Paragraph 5)

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The authors argue that the perceptions of beauty have evolved as the fashion industry has been forced to be more accountable and diverse in its depiction of beauty due to the forces created by the Internet. (Paragraph 5)

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The authors highlight that with increased cultural enlightenment and political correctness, brands now have be careful and avoid cultural minefields while finding best ways to market to their consumers. (Paragraph 6)

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The authors highlight that with increased cultural enlightenment and political correctness, brands now have be careful and avoid cultural minefields while finding best ways to market to their consumers. (Paragraph 6)

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The authors argue that in seeking for potential mates, beauty is a key factor as it is associated with vitality, and thereby, fertility. (Paragraph 7) 

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The authors argue that in seeking for potential mates, beauty is a key factor as it is associated with vitality, and thereby, fertility. (Paragraph 7) 

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The authors argue that being percieved as beautiful is existential, serving as a validation of our very existence and an essential point of self-worth. (Paragraph 9) 

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The authors argue that being percieved as beautiful is existential, serving as a validation of our very existence and an essential point of self-worth. (Paragraph 9) 

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The authors argue that looking beautiful is no longer an exclusive trait as everyone has the tools and means to enhance their looks. (Paragraph 4)/ do note that this does not fully align with overall positive stance taken on beauty in the passage: "Their role is constant ‘uplift’: to tell us that we are perfect just as we are, all while growingan audience and securing their market share.") 

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The authors argue that looking beautiful is no longer an exclusive trait as everyone has the tools and means to enhance their looks. (Paragraph 4)/ do note that this does not fully align with overall positive stance taken on beauty in the passage: "Their role is constant ‘uplift’: to tell us that we are perfect just as we are, all while growingan audience and securing their market share.") 

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The authors argue that on a personal level, beauty immensely boosts one's emotional state, leading to increased assuarnce in one’s own skills. (Paragraph 7) 

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The authors argue that on a personal level, beauty immensely boosts one's emotional state, leading to increased assuarnce in one’s own skills. (Paragraph 7) 

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The authors argue that society is moving towards a culture of 'big-tent' beauty where the standards of beauty are far more inclusive and accepting of diverse forms.  (Paragraph 2) 

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The authors argue that society is moving towards a culture of 'big-tent' beauty where the standards of beauty are far more inclusive and accepting of diverse forms.  (Paragraph 2) 

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The authors argue that beauty has financial value, where attractive staff earn higher wages etc.  (Paragraph 8) 

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The authors argue that beauty has financial value, where attractive staff earn higher wages etc.  (Paragraph 8) 