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I found a lot of useful information on this page about the history of Polyester. Polyester wasn't always such a commonly used praised fabric. Durng the 70s sales of Polyester plummeted due to hippies becoming more popular and wanting more natural fabrics for their clothing.

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to do list

[ ] look back over old presentations and add notes to the PowerPoint

[ ] look at my slides on the clothes and finish those

[ ] look more into the history of polyester

[ ] look at designers i like and their use of polyester

[ ] go on to edited and compare stats

inclusivity of fashion

what do diversity, equity, and inclusion mean to you?

Being accepting of people's religion, race, sexual orientation, and identity. Not letting old beliefs affect how we see one another now.

No discrimination.

Allowing everyone feel comfortable and like they can fit in, everyone needs to feel welcome and equal.

equity is a reference to fairness and justice it acknowledges we do not start at the same place and that adjustments have had to be made for imbalances.

equality- providing the same to all.

inclusion- the act of the state of including or being included within a group or structure. also providing equal access to opportunities and resources.

task- find a brand that has ran an inclusivity campaign save the campaign and highlight it.

Nike realsed a number of campaigns in 2017 which were targeted towards women getting over their fear and to go out sporting. they were ran in Turkey, the Middle East and russia. Their goal was to encourage women to get active, regardless the physical, societal, cultural barriers.

“The films aired on broadcast in each local market and are supported by integrated campaigns including print, Out Of Home (OOH), social and digital executions, influencer activity and events.”

these countries were picked due to the sport barriers women face.

https://medium.com/ad-discovery-and-creativity-lab/believe-in-more-how-a-nike-campaign-crossed-three-borders-cbf6381104ed

labels are for clothes

create a mood bored of an inclusive range.

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found in the book Material Matters, new material in design by Phillip Howes and Zoe Laughlin

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Found in the book Material Matters, New material in design by Phillip Howes and Zoe Laughlin

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Found in the book Material Matters, New material in design by Phillip Howes and Zoe Laughlin

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This outfit was also 100% recycled Polyester. The trousers retailed £110 and the top £79

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We then moved onto Hobbs after we looked in H&M where I found a number of Polyester products. This dress for example was 100% Polyester and retailed for £199

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This ladies shirt was 100% recycled Polyester, it also retailed for £21.99

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I also found these trousers that were 66% Polyester, 30% viscose and 4% elastane. The lining was 100% Polyester.

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After the 30 years of London exhibition we went round shops in Kengsington area looking for products under our fabric. Within this I found this jumper which retailed for £21.99 and was 43% Polyester 57% cotton.

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we worked on measuring a shirt, focusing on the different measuring points like center back etc.
SNP- Side neck point
CB- center back
FIL- from imaginery line

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the start of my swatch sketch book

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On our sewing induction we were given sheets of paper to practice our accuracy with corners and curves

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This lesson we learnt how to do a number of seams on Calico. We learnt how to do an open seam, closed seam, flat fell seam, French seam and Hong Kong seam.

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master class 19/9/23

sustainability

textile engineer

ahmet baris ay

you need to consider whether its socially, environmentally and economically sustainable.

the fashion industry emits more carbon than international flights and ….

cotton creation needs to be more sustainable due to the use of water to make one cotton shirt. It takes 700 gallons to make one cotton shirt.

due to the loss of ice in the north pole, the boats can take the North Sea route which is a shortcut.

65% of the share of main fibers in 2016 was synthetic IE polyester.

linear and circular products

linear- creation to not be recycled

circular- should be able to be recycled i.e. reused or recycled.

organic cotton not using any harmful chemicals, will not harm the environment or the fabric.

all ecosystems were killed in cotton fields no more animals in cotton fields.

organic cotton is not the best solution for sustainability, there is a new one called regenerated cotton. regeneration farming is used to try and recreate what farming was like before industrialization. it's not used just in textiles.

regenerated cotton will become more popular in the next few years.

cotton from lab, galy.co

industrial hemp is the closest to cotton. using 50% of cotton, less water used.

hemp is used still but less due to its price as there isn't many farms for it

viscose is not sustainable and there are also poisonous fibre left overs which are poisonous nyoco …..mixed rec

canopy is in the business of plannet changing.

viscose is made from eucalypti good cause you need a fast-growing tree.

renewcell dissolves used cotton, and other natural fibers, into a new biodegradable raw material. you should have at least 80% of cotton in the material learn about future present and future

biobased polyester

the solution from now is that we can make polyester with crops and not oil.

silk, vegan silk is the solution, look on the powerpoint (confused)

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research

. research the origins of the fabric

. why were synthetic fabrics invented?

. could look into the use of dam in jackets from a ethical point of view and how they could use polyester

Homework

. upload work on padlet

. start title page for sketchbook

. look through wardrobe at polyester fabrics

notes from the class

. List functional garments

dungarees, workwear denim

scuba diving gear/ wet suit- neoprene (knitted, lots of layers within, usually seams are bonded together so there isnt big seams)

snow suit- warmth, insulation, needs to be heavy enough but needs to be mobile, needs to be breathable and resistant

waterproof jacket/ rain coat- higher end the jacket the better waterproof it is

hospital scrubs- durable, potentially a heavy weight tulle, hypoallergenic?

gloves- insulation, thermal gloves (polyester lining?)

gym wear- absorbent, stretch jersey therefore knitted, need to be strong

. function fit for purpose?

strength

durability

crease-resistant

flame resistant

protective for labor work

sustainable/ recyclable

stain resistant

waterproof resistant

cost has to meet margins

. comfort in a garment

no big seams

small labels

baggy

no unnecessary buttons

tracksuits-knitted, elastane in the waist, made of cotton or a cotton blend, nylon

pjs- loose, soft maybe brushed fabric? or a smooth fabric

satin- could be pjs, dresses, jackets,

true knitwear- fashion wear, function warmth. generally quite soft

. comfort

absorbency

breathability

elasticity

softness

. what are your main fabric considerations

softness

quality/ durability

time of the year/ seasons, transitional

event- wedding attire etc

fit- how would the quality, type of fabric effect the fit

sustainability, vegan/ organic

micro trends

how see through it is

what should we consider what fabric should we use?

sleepwear- nothing to heavy, bulky, how soft it is. what fabric is it depending on what season int he winter it may be a brushed fabric were as in the winter it may be a lightweight cotton or silk. continuous washing, flame-retardant, anti-static.

childrenswear- what may be uncomfortable for them (I.E. big seams, material, softness etc) whether they would be able to get changed themselves as they get older not a tight fabric or one that requires buttons. durability as children are accident prone and how well it washes and is stain resistant. safe, non-irritable, age appropriate, lightweight, strong, hardworking, washable, cover.

swimwear- something not heavy and that isn’t going to go see through. is going to dry relatively quick when out of the water.

sportswear- breathable, wont break, stretches well for exercising. washes well to keep it fresh.

workwear-

formal- suits gonna be a good fabric for the season, ie more lightweight for winter

practical- fire-resistant if needed/ waterproof if needed. durable if its a hands on job.

. what aesthetics do i look for in clothes

baggy clothes-

design and looks-

colour-

the fit-

the quality-

the makeup-

. what makes a garment sustainable

whether it was built to last for a night out or a season

if it can be put into the fashion circulation

if it was made for a micro or macro trend

type of fabric

organic/ vegan?

basic weaves and knits

woven- generally non stretch, versatile,

plain weave- most basic fundamental weave, forms a strong versatile, durable cloth.

oxford/basket weave similar to a plain weave but its two or more yarns woven as one.

twill weave- most widely used weaves

herringbone- known as a broken twill weave, made in a v shaped pattern

satin weave-

fashion/ decades and subcultures

edwardian era

edwardian dress and the birth of the fashion designer

corsets the rational dress society founded in 1881 sought to free women from the constrictions of corsets the edwardian lady began to travel, enjoy sport, work and needed freedom. corsets are having a fashion revival.

la belle epoque

the 19th century was all about bustles crinolines, polonaises, dolmans and frills. a move to simplicity in womens clothing designs was given.

ww1 effect ion womens clothes

patching

jumpsuits

more practical workwear

1914-1918

during the ww1 women worked in the factories drove ambulances, tended to the wounded in field hospitals and therefore reearranged their wardrobe to suit. skirts become shorter, hair was tied up or cropped. fashion designers were outpaced by the march of history. tailored suits with an easy movement was used by women.

1920s the jazz age

the first world war ending 1918 new attitudes around gender play into this optimistic decade.

women gained the vote in the UK

1920s women new freedom. downtown abbey etc

1920s fashion media vogue, harpars bazzar etc

look at coco chanel

key designer of the 1920s

recession fashion the wall street crash less fabric was used due to costs

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trends, cost of living, environmental impact

what is globalisation, globalisation is the process which the world has became increasingly interconnected as a result of a increased trade and cultural exchange.

pros of globalisation, more customers for brands, more money into the fashion industry, help the economy

cons mass produced, bad for micro trends,

master class with ruby

BAA buyers admin assistant

after break lesson

fast fashion

fast produced on the shop floor in a few weeks, mass produced, disposable, low cost to maximise profits

ethical fashion is when a company makes sure they are socially and environmentally responsible

slow fashion is usually under a limited stock base they may be made to order eg fancier dresses like wedding dresses

fast fashion fast produced micro trends