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Looking into shapes from paintings, pueblo homes, kites, and  apron garments that have shown up throughout my research.
Looking at:
-    Aprons (the garment and it's use as well as the layering on top of other garments, straps and bib shape)

-    Unusual shapes extracted from research (how would these look if they were cut out of a roll of fabric? Tying it around the body)

-    Shirts and folding techniques (how these would look on the body - in which fabrication)

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Photoshop collage of fashion references and mood of garments

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aprons have shown up throughout my research and would be an interesting garment to manipulate

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Francisco Toledo - kite and folding
looking at this shape and using folding techniques

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Francisco Toledo - kite shape and print

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Traditional Mexican dress

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garments and patchwork inspo

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the leaf on the back - interesting shape to look into and with the veins of the leaf

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Pia Riverola

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Print and mixture of prints and lines
3Women and Lorod

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Engraving on cactus - interesting soft print idea? embroidery?

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silhouette, layering, textures

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Inspo for garments and print/patchwork/embroidery techniques

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Boats and boating--Equipment and supplies

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Pia Riverola Mexico

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Pia Riverola

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Diego Huerta

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fine print details

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Towards circular textiles

ReBlend is a social enterprise with a mission to raise awareness about the ecological impact of the textile industry and to inspire the use of looped & renewable raw materials. To offer a solution ReBlend develops textiles and textile products made from textiles that otherwise end up in incineration. The textiles made from recycled fibres are a positive alternative for designers and companies looking for products that look good & feel good.

In collaboration with waste collectors, producers, designers, makers and visionaries ReBlend organizes a full supply chain from start to finish to guarantee their textiles don't harm people and planet and accelerate a new ecosystem for circular textiles.

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Towards circular textiles ReBlend is a social enterprise with a mission to raise awareness about the ecological impact of the textile industry and to inspire the use of looped & renewable raw materials. To offer a solution ReBlend develops textiles and textile products made from textiles that otherwise end up in incineration.

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For the past few months i've held a Q&A session over on my Instagram and most months I got asked how to get started with plant dyeing, so I thought it was about time that I do a blog post to go into this in more detail.

When answering questions, having discussions with you or writing my books I always try to keep things as simple as possible. There is a little bit of science involved in plant dyeing but I try my best to keep any scientific sounding language out of things and to explain things really simple and paired back way. The way I see it, if it was me that was learning about a new craft I would want it to seem attainable and achievable and instructions that are full of scientific words that I've never heard of before would put me off.

I like to think of my plant dye recipes as guides - rather than recipes that should be followed to the letter. Although there are a few cases when exact weights and measures are important (when repeating colours or working with powdered dye extracts or indigo, for example) most of the time I encourage you to read my methods, give them a go and then change them a bit to find the best thing that works for you. There are so many factors that affect the colour results from plant dyes that you may find that your avocado stones do better in hot temperatures than mine do or that the stinging nettles that grow by your house will always make olives - whereas mine might make green - no matter what you do.

All that being said, read on for what I feel you need to know before you get started with plant dyeing.

TIME

A big issue for a lot of people who ask me questions regarding learning to dye with plants is that they are worried about how much time they need to dedicate to plant dyeing and how to fit in a new hobby around their working/family life. My main ethos for plant dyeing is to take is slowly. That means leaving plants soaking in pots for several days (sometimes several weeks, if I've forgotten about them) and doing the same when it comes to dyeing fabrics. I am certain that I achieve such deep and vivid colours from my plant dyes because I let my fabrics soak for so long in the dye pot. Although the whole process of preparing the fabric, extracting the colour from the plant and dyeing the fabric takes a fairly long period of time (generally several weeks) it doesn't actually take up much of YOU time - putting fabric out to dry, keeping an eye on the pot for an hour to make sure it doesn't boil and the occasional stir with a wooden spoon. And I'm sure you'll agree with me when I say that even the most busy person can manage that.

TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT

I bang on about this in all of my books (and in a fair amount of Instagram posts too!) but you really don't need any specialist equipment to being your plant dyeing journey. All that is needed is a pot with a lid to make dye and dye your fabric in, a spoon for stirring, somewhere to hang out washing to dry, a sieve to strain the dye of all its little plant bits and a hob to heat the dye pot on. Unless you don't cook or have a kitchen then you will probably have all of the above in your house already. It really is as simple as that.

HOW TO ACTUALLY MAKE THE DYE AND DYE THE FABRIC

Obviously, this method varies slightly according to what plant you are using to make the dye and what type of fabric you are dyeing with but the basic steps are:

1. Choose and wash your fabric. I recommend a natural fibre like cotton or linen to start with. You could cut up an old white pillow case or bedsheets so that you have lots of smaller pieces of fabric to experiment with at first, rather than slashing out on fabric.

2. Treat your fabric with soya milk. Although some dyes will work without this step, lots of plant dyes won't. Full instructions on this method and an explanation on WHY it works are in all of my books, which you can find here.

3. Choose your dye plant and extract the colour. I recommend starting with avocado stones, fresh turmeric root (it's less messy than the powder turmeric) or stinging nettles. The basic rule to this step is to start the heat of low, gradually increase it and NEVER let it boil.

4. Dyeing your fabric. This is as simple and putting your fabric in the dye, heating it gently and waiting until you are happy with the colour before removing it.

CARING FOR FABRICS DYED WITH PLANTS

There is a huge misconception that plant dyed fabrics don't keep their colours well but this is really not true. I'm not going to deny that there are a few dyes that look great in the dye pot but then wash out instantly or fade as soon as they see the tiniest bit of sunlight (beetroot, I'm looking at you) but with most dyes, as long as they aren't washed at 60 degrees and hung out in the bright mid-day sun to dry then they should keep their colour well.

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Getting started with plant dyeing - Botanical Threads

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For the past few months i've held a Q&A session over on my Instagram and most months I got asked how to get started with plant dyeing, so I thought it was about time that I do a blog post to go into this in more detail.

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Coronavirus: E-Commerce shifts and strategies

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details and construction of the top on the woman on the left

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Mixing prints and disturbing lines

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Gallery of B House _ i_House Architecture and Construction  - 6

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sketchbook page

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Lola Alvarez Bravo

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Mixing of prints
Bode

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Embroidery of the hat, ruffle of the skirt hem
Graciela Iturbide

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This is my friend, Sam, from back home in Chicago. She is half Mexican, loves antiques and vintage clothes. Sam is the perfect muse as she is quite modern but also very vintage inspired. She agreed to take these photos specifically for this project.

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print inspo and placement
Paloma Wool

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sketches and initial ideas

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SKETCHBOOK PAGE

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SKETCHBOOK PAGE

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their about page is interesting and their visuals / sketchbook images

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LOROD creates modular, modern interpretations of American classics.
Emphasizing construction over ornament, a dedication to detail, and an inclination for the understated, LOROD believes utility can be refined, and the familiar can be alluring.

LOROD is made in the USA.

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LOROD creates modular, modern interpretations of American classics. Emphasizing construction over ornament, a dedication to detail, and an inclination for the understated, LOROD believes utility can be refined, and the familiar can be alluring. LOROD is made in the USA.

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Traditional Weaving

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Experimental weaving inspired by traditional Mexican weaving

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Garment, textures
Graciela Iturbide

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Graciela Iturbide

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Lola Alvarez Bravo

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design development and sketching

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design development from 3d sampling with vintage blazers that I cut in half down the front

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Knits, textures, types of garments

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My Embroidery Sampling

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My Embroidery Sampling

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Lola Alvarez Bravo

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Lola Álvarez Bravo

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Lola Álvarez Bravo

(Mexican, 1907–1993) First Mexican female photographer

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3.1 market research - value shifts page 10

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Bode - Vintage inspired garments made into workwear silhouettes

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Combining prints, natural material, simple shapes

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I grew up in woods filled with white oak trees. The big beautiful trees would drop their tiny capped seeds each season, covering the ground with a blanket of acorns. As I have experimented more with natural dyeing, I have discovered acorns produce incredible colors in the dye bath. On their own, they produce soft and rich shades of golden brown, and when dipped in a second bath of iron water, they produce stunning shades of gray, from soft and dusty dove to rich charcoal.

I have foraged acorns both as whole nuts and once they have sprouted. A sprouted acorn is really stunning - the inside of the nut turns an intense magenta. I currently have a dye pot of these sprouted acorns ready to dye with - I will update the post on if their red hue effects the bath at all. Very excited to see the results! As you start working with acorn dye, know both the caps and nuts hold dye potential, and can be used at any point from when they have fallen off the tree before becoming a sapling. Remember with any foraged material to only take a small portion, leaving the rest for wildlife and new growth.

I have dyed a range of different fabrics and yarns in acorn dye, and found that dyeing linen napkins has been my favorite. It creates an incredibly rich table setting, adding warmth and earthiness to a winter dinner table. I love the idea of bringing the outdoors in during a season when not much can be gleaned from the outdoors. The linen also takes to acorn dye really well, making it a great first acorn dye project.

Below is my method for creating acorn dye - I am still learning and tinkering, and will candidly share when I am still working through a certain process. Dyeing does take time - from start to finish this process takes several weeks. I would encourage you to enjoy the slow pace - it will make the finished result all the more satisfying. For acorn dye, I have tested both mordanted and un-mordanted fabrics, and found little difference in the result. Acorns are rich in tannins, meaning they don't need a mordant to set the color in fabrics. My method increases the amount of time fabrics spend in the dye to increase the intensity and setting power of the dye.

When I have a pot of dye, it is very hard for me not to fill it to the brim with yarn and fabric. Note that acorn dye has immense dye potential and can be used for several dye baths. The best dye baths allow your fabrics to be stirred easily and covered completely in the dye bath. I focus on dyeing linen napkins in this method, but if you fancy dyeing yarn, clothing or bandanas, experiment with the amount of fibers you add to the pot to have it still be stir-able. Note that all fibers must be 100% natural - synthetic or acrylic fibers do not take on color.

Materials

1 Ball quart jar with plastic lid of iron water: 1 part vinegar, 2 parts water, and 5 iron nails

2 lbs. acorns, nuts and caps

4 quarts water

stainless steel stock pot with lid, just for dye* (iron water can make other metals reactive, and ruin your dye pot for other uses. I would highly recommend using only stainless steel.)

wooden spoon just for acorn dye* (when using iron water, I stick to using one spoon just for acorn dye, so the iron water on the wooden spoon does not contaminate other dye baths.)

fine metal strainer just for dye*

large plastic bowl

old flour sack towels

rubber gloves

12 un-dyed 100% linen napkins

1 large pot

tongs just for dye*

Quick note on safety:

*never cook in a pot or use cooking utensils after you have created dye with it. Dye can be toxic to consume, so should not come into contact with food. Do not eat or cook while making dye.

Dyeing Process

1. Start by creating your iron water. I usually create mine in a glass quart jar with a plastic screw on lid that I reuse over and over for iron water. Place 4-5 rusty nails in the bottom of the jar, then fill the jar with one part vinegar and two parts water - I eyeball this on the side of the jar - it does not have to be exact, just a good mix of water and vinegar. Let this mixture sit for one to two weeks until you are ready to use it - it will take on a cloudy orange color when it is ready.

2. Thoroughly rinse off your acorns, removing any grass or dirt. Discard any acorns that are mushy. Place your clean acorns into your dye pot, covering with water, about 4 quarts.

3. Heat your dye bath on low until very warm - you should still be able to touch the outside of the pot for several seconds. Cover and let it heat at this temperature for 1 hour, stirring and checking the temperature occasionally.

4. Remove your pot from the heat and let it sit covered for one to three days to get the most color out of the acorns that you can. Check it daily to see how the color is looking, and make sure it is not getting moldy. You can store in a cooler location like a garage or basement to prevent anything getting moldy.

5. Pour your dye pot into a fine mesh strainer lined with a flour sack towel over a large plastic bowl. You can keep the acorns to create a second dye bath (yes! they are that full of dye!) or discard. Pour your dye bath back into your dye pot, and heat until warm.

6. Prepare your linens for the dye by bringing a large pot of water to a boil next to your dye pot. Drop your linens in and boil for 2 minutes. Remove each linen napkin from the boiling water with the tongs and drop them into the dye bath. Make sure all napkins are submerged in the dye, and can move easily. Add more water to the dye bath if they are not covered.

7. Cover and warm the dye bath over low heat for another hour, then remove from heat and let sit for three to seven days. The longer you can let it sit, the more dye your fabric will take on. I like to start fabric dyeing on a Saturday, and finish it the following weekend.

8. After three to seven days, wearing rubber gloves, remove your napkins to a sink. Do not rinse or squeeze out any dye from the napkins. You can save your acorn dye for another dye bath, or discard.

9. Wearing rubber gloves, pour your iron water through a flour sack towel-lined strainer into your now empty dye pot. Add 4 quarts of warm tap water and stir to distribute the iron water. You can either fill your jar back up with vinegar and water using the same nails, or discard. Do not repurpose the jar for anything but iron water.

10. This is where the magic happens!!! Add your napkins to the iron water pot, stirring gently to make sure they are covered in iron water. Add additional tap water if needed. Watch as your napkins go from brown to gray! You can remove your napkins using rubber gloves or tongs at any point during the iron water bath - it just depends on what color you like. If you want to deepen the gray, let the napkins sit in the iron water 10-20 minutes, then heat very gently over low heat. Watch this very carefully, as iron water can leave large rust patches on the material if overheated. Do not hear for more than 10 minutes. Once the 10 minutes are up, or the desired shade is reached, carefully remove napkins using tongs and discard your iron water. Iron water is safe to rinse down the sink.

11. Using rubber gloves, squeeze all access dye out of your fabric, and rinse well. Wash your linen napkins on the hand wash setting on your washing machine using a free and clear laundry detergent. Line dry. Enjoy your stunning creation at your next cozy winter dinner.

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I grew up in woods filled with white oak trees. The big beautiful trees would drop their tiny capped seeds each season, covering the ground with a blanket of acorns. As I have experimented more with natural dyeing, I have discovered acorns produce incredible colors in the dye bath.

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Black beans are delicious, pooled beside a pile of rice on a plate of enchiladas, but have you ever thought about dyeing fabric with them? We're guessing not, and we understand why. Natural dyeing sounds like the kind of overly complicated activity that takes a whole weekend and still doesn't work-but wrong! After much investigation and a bit of actual testing, we've discovered that naturally dyeing fabric is actually quite easy, once you know the steps. And those black beans? They make the most amazing chalky blue dye, almost like a faded indigo. It's heaven.

There are a lot of things in the natural world that produce dye, from bugs to flowers and barks, but foods are our favorite. First of all, they're easy to source-no need to order your onions from an obscure Etsy dealer to make golden yellow dye from the skins-and second of all, a lot of the dye-producing parts are technically scraps. In the most Millennial news ever, avocado peels and pits make a pale pink dye; a friend of mine saves her up in a freezer bag and had the idea to call a local Chipotle for its castoffs if she needs some blush dye in a hurry. Never know!

Two things to note before you begin: The first is that natural dyes stick best to natural fabrics. Cotton, linen, wool, and silk fall under this category-polyester not so much-because they're highly porous on a microscopic level. Second, don't expect to get the exact color you're aiming for. Everything from the pH of the water to the source of your black beans can contribute to the resulting color, and especially as a first-time dyer it's kind of impossible to guess what you'll get. So be open-minded. It might be more gray than blue, or even green! That's all part of the fun of it. Here are the five steps you need to follow to dye them naturally, with all the supplies in bold.

1. Scour

Please excuse this technical-term moment. It just means cleaning your fabric thoroughly to prep it for dyeing! Plant-based fibers like cotton and linen should technically be scoured with soda ash (also called "washing soda"): Wearing gloves, get a big stock pot and dissolve a few tablespoons of soda ash and a few tablespoons of regular fabric detergent per gallon of boiling water required to fill it. Add your fabric and turn on the heat, letting the concoction simmer for about two hours while stirring occasionally. Um, you're a chef! Drain and rinse when time's up.

2. Make Dye

While your fabric is simmering, make your dye. Choose a food that has lots of tannins-Pinterest can help you identify which make good dyes, but here are some favorites: black beans for blue, red cabbage for purple, beets for pink, avocado skins and pits for peachy pink, yellow onion skins for yellow-orange, ground turmeric for golden yellow, spinach for green. To make dye from black beans, soak them in lots of water overnight and then drain (that black water is the dye!). For the rest, roughly chop the food, pile it high in a stock pot, then fill with water, sprinkle in some salt, bring to a boil, and simmer for an hour. Compost the now-pale food bits and set aside the liquid for dye time.

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4 Steps to Naturally Dyeing Any Fabric With Foods

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Black beans suddenly got much more interesting now that we know about natural dyes

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sustainable plastics - L:SN

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aesthetic and garments

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Nicholas Daley is a London based menswear designer who explores the interplay of fashion, music and culture.

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website and product layout

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Paloma Wool is my name and the name of this project. A project on photography, clothing and other experiments. From Barcelona.