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Reduced tillage practices minimize soil disturbance with targeted and appropriate tillage based on farm goals. Reduced tillage means less intensity, shallower depth, and less area disturbed, either in the bed, field or across the farm. It can mean less frequent tillage and lead to successful adoption of no-till practices.

Practices take many forms. They may be system-wide, applied across the whole farm, or only fit in a part of the rotation for specific crops. They often maintain the benefits of some tillage for managing weeds, making a better seed bed for crop establishment, or incorporating residues. How they take shape on a farm can depend on farm size and soil characteristics, access to equipment or materials, farm skill sets, and labor availability.

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Reduced Tillage in Vegetables - Cornell Small Farms

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Reduced tillage practices minimize soil disturbance with targeted and appropriate tillage based on farm goals. Reduced tillage means less intensity, shallower depth, and less area disturbed, either in the bed, field or across the farm. It can mean less frequent tillage and lead to successful adoption of no-till practices.

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https://dengarden.com/gardening/Urine-for-Plants#:~:text=A%20study%20conducted%20by%20the%20Journal%20of%20Agricultural,rates%20compared%20to%20plants%20receiving%20a%20chemical-based%20fertilizer.

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Ever wondered if you can drink your own urine? Well, your plants can! Urine isn't waste. It's food-plant food that is! Learn how the plants in your garden can benefit from the use of urine. The results are impressive!

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Coconut shells absorb more water and therefore keeps the soil wet and moist for a longer time.

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Creating a rain garden helps to prevent surface water run-off from being channelled through storm drains.

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https://sustainablefoodtrust.org/articles/human-manure-closing-the-nutrient-loop/

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Using human urine and faeces as fertiliser may seem an unappetising concept but it's been common practice for centuries. In the sewage systems of today, which deal with millions of tonnes of domestic waste and industrial effluent, this human fertiliser comes in the form of treated sewage sludge.

Promoting a waste product that some consider hazardous as a resource to grow your food may seem like a paradox, but in Britain, a world leader in recycling sewage into agriculture, it is recognised by the government and the EU as the best environmental option. It diverts waste away from oceans and landfill and provides essential plant nutrients to the soil. Nevertheless, EU organic regulations don't permit the use of sewage sludge on organic farms. So, what are their concerns? Is this form of manure safe for agriculture? Are we putting our health and our soils at risk when we spread human waste on land?

"1% of wastewater is waste. The rest is wasted water."

Human urine and faecal matter are a rich source of essential plant nutrients. Historically, human excreta, 'nightsoils', were collected from towns and villages and spread in raw or composted form on fields in the surrounding farmland. This informal treatment is still practiced in some areas of China, South East Asia, Africa and Latin America, where municipal sewage works don't exist or are poorly functioning. In the 1850s, Europe's growing urban populations and the discovery of the link between raw sewage and cholera led to the implementation of large-scale sewage systems. These water-based systems combined all domestic waste, industrial effluent and road surface run-off. For the next century the resulting sewage sludge was disposed of in landfill and directly into the oceans. Eventually, in the 1970s, growing awareness of the environmental impact of sewage on aquatic life led to widespread bans on ocean dumping across the developed world. Since then, research, technology and regulation of wastewater management have progressed to a high standard.

In Britain, sewage sludge goes through a tertiary anaerobic digestion process that kills off up to 99.99% of pathogens. The treated sewage sludge this produces is referred to as 'biosolids' and most commonly comes in the form of dried cake digestate.

Matt Taylor is an environmental scientist and consultant at ADAS, Britain's largest independent provider of environmental solutions, services and consultancy on recycling materials to land. He says that "the most common outlet for biosolids is agricultural recycling. Around 1 million tonnes of dry solids (that's equivalent to 3.5 million tonnes of fresh solids) were used as fertiliser [in Britain] in 2013."

Biosolids can increase agricultural yields and improve soil condition. They provide nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium in a less soluble form than farmyard manure and artificial fertilisers, which means they remain in the soil for longer and are less prone to leaching into groundwater or run-off, which pollutes waterways. Biosolids also contain useful levels of sulphur and magnesium and trace levels of micronutrients. Unlike artificial fertilisers, biosolids contain 20%-80% organic matter, which is critical for the health of soils.

Could biosolids replace our reliance on artificial fertilisers?

Manufacturing fertilisers requires fossil fuels, so as the price of fuel increases this has a knock-on effect for the price of artificial fertilisers, food production and ultimately the price of food. Our reliance on mined phosphorous is a major concern. The extraction of phosphate rock is not only a very toxic and energy intensive process but it's also a non-renewable resource that's predicted to reach peak supply in 2033. After that the price of phosphorus will increase significantly, bringing the price of food up with it. According to the Soil Association's peak phosphate report, without mined phosphate, crop yields in conventional farming could be reduced by half.

On a global scale we could be recovering much more phosphorus from human waste. It's estimated that only 10% of the phosphate lost from human excreta is recycled back to the land due to inefficiencies in wastewater treatment or the absence of wastewater treatment altogether. Results from a 2009 study in Chemosphere suggest that, if properly collected, the phosphorus available from urine and faeces could account for 22% of the total global phosphorus demand.

Already in Britain we recycle 77% of our sewage onto agricultural land. Could biosolids eventually replace the need for artificial inputs?

According to Taylor, "biosolids can play a role but it's not going to replace other forms of fertiliser. We could do more but we are using the vast majority of sewage sludge already." However, with improved technology we could extract more nutrients. "We're getting more phosphorous out of waters in the form of struvite. This is a mineral build up on pipes, which causes blockages in pipelines. Thameswater has started harvesting this struvite as it contains phosphorous."

Wastewater treatment is improving all the time in Britain as regulations become more stringent and require treatment plants to remove more nitrogen and phosphorous from sewage. As a result the volume of biosolids produced is increasing every year, making more fertiliser available for agriculture.

But is it safe?

There are understandable concerns from farmers, consumers and food retailers about pathogens, heavy metals, pharmaceuticals and other hazardous organic chemicals in sewage sludge. The good news is that biosolids are the most researched and well regulated of organic materials applied to land in Britain and the framework for regulating sewage sludge is more stringent than that of farmyard manures. Numerous pieces of legislation and best practice guidelines, like the Safe Sludge Matrix, must be adhered to by everyone involved in the treatment and use of sewage sludge.

Heavy metals are the main concern. These are strictly monitored, however, and regular testing shows that the levels of heavy metals in soils fertilised with biosolids are significantly below the maximum permissible levels. In fact the levels are so low now that the Soil Association has recommended the European Commission lifts the ban on using biosolids in organic farming. The Soil Association still recognises that the existence of other potential contaminants from organic compounds, such as GMOs and pharmaceuticals, need to be considered.

But there's still a big question mark hanging over the impact of industrial chemicals and personal care products in domestic waste as well as the huge amounts of medicines that pass through the human system. Whilst the vast majority of these are biologically degraded in the treatment process, trace levels of some persist.

WaterUK, a member organisation of the water utilities, states "there are no reported cases of human, animal or crop contamination due to the use of sludge on agricultural soils." Yet studies have found the artificial hormones used in birth control pills affect the endocrine systems of fish exposed to sewage effluent water, which affects fish fertility. There's concern about how this would affect livestock that graze on grassland treated with sludge. Despite the lack of scientific evidence to prove long-lasting damage, there is also not enough evidence to prove it's 100% safe either.

Sanitation fit for the future

The risk of chemical contaminants and pharmaceuticals could be reduced by preventing human waste from mixing with all other domestic and industrial waste in the first place. Ecological sanitation systems are starting to come into use all over the world that separate human excreta from other waste streams. Ecological sanitation (ES) includes urine diverting toilets, high-tech vacuum systems and composting toilets. These inexpensive systems can be used in various contexts from small villages to large municipalities. ES separates greywater, human faeces and urine and stores them in underground tanks.

A great advantage of ES is this separation. The majority of nutrients in human excreta are in urine - if uncontaminated by faeces it's relatively sterile and can easily be used on crops with little treatment. This low-cost solution makes most sense in rural areas where houses are not connected to centralised sewage systems or in close proximity to agricultural land.

It's harder to justify the cost of retrofitting ES into existing centralised sewage systems that already supply safe drinking water and recycle waste to a sufficient level. WaterUK estimates the total value of nutrients in biosolids recycled to agricultural land in Britain at £40-£50 million per annum. The value of preserving life in our oceans, the health of our soils and the quality of our water is priceless, and as water and energy become more scarce and costly, and phosphorous reserves run out, ES could become a much more attractive and cost-effective prospect.

According to the UN 90% of wastewater in the developing world is expelled, untreated, into the oceans. Whilst rich countries have had the finances and governance to manage sewage effectively, there's still a long way to go in making this universal. How will we, as a global community achieve it? Perhaps that will give you something to ponder when you're next on the toilet.
Photograph: Chesapeake Bay Program

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Human manure: Closing the nutrient loop - Sustainable Food Trust

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Using human urine and faeces as fertiliser may seem an unappetising concept but it's been common practice for centuries. In the sewage systems of today, which deal with millions of tonnes of domestic waste and industrial effluent, this human fertiliser comes in the form of treated sewage sludge.

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Plants that are pest or drought resistant requires less care, water, and pesticides, which saves resources.

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Using mulch can also save you water, time, money, and effort.

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Us organic gardeners love to talk about mulch, and for a good reason! The mindful use of mulch has a direct beneficial impact on soil health, and in turn, the vitality of your plants. It can also save you water, time, money, and effort. Plus, mulching is an excellent way to use materials you have lying around your yard that may otherwise end up in the landfill. If you're not using mulch in your garden yet, it's time to get on it!

Read along to learn all about using mulch in your garden (or general yard space). This article will discuss what mulch is, the benefits that it can provide, the best time of year to add mulch to the garden, and how to apply it. We'll also explore several natural mulch choices like compost, bark or straw, as well as synthetic materials such as landscape fabric.

Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links to products for your convenience, such as to items on Amazon. Homestead and Chill gains a small commission from purchases made through those links, at no additional cost to you.

What is Mulch?

Mulch is a general term for any material placed on the surface of soil. More often than not, natural organic materials are used for mulch, such as straw, leaves, compost, or wood chips. However, synthetic mulch products like plastic sheeting or weed mat fabric are also commonly used. Or, sometimes a combination of both!

Some mulch materials are thick and chunky while others are more fine; many are temporary in nature while some are more permanent. Garden mulch may be used for one or many reasons, such as to reduce evaporation or to suppress weeds.

Why Mulch Your Garden?

There are numerous benefits to using mulch in your garden! Barren, exposed soil is prone to erosion and runoff of water and/or nutrients. It is also an easy target for fast evaporation. In contrast, applying a nice layer of mulch on top of bare soil will simultaneously enhance the soil's ability to retain moisture, protect plants, and nurture the living soil food web below.

Benefits of mulch:

Finally, mulch layers create habitat for beneficial insects. Take ladybugs for example. These awesome aphid predators like to overwinter in leaf piles or similar debris. However, pest insects may also hide in mulch as well. So, this is both a benefit as well as a potential drawback.

Mulch helps to protect and enhance the Soil Food Web - the network of living things that keep plants healthy! Image Courtesy of Heidelberg Farms via Pinterest

How to Apply Mulch: Best Practices

The general rule of thumb is to spread mulch about two to four inches thick over the soil surface. When mulch is too thick, it can be counterproductive and prevent water from reaching the soil. On the flip side, too thin a layer of mulch may not adequately stop weed growth or prevent evaporation as intended. After mulching, you could water it in to help it settle in place (though it isn't required).

In our raised garden beds, we aim to provide about 2 inches of compost mulch. Elsewhere, our gravel and bark mulch is 3 to four inches deep in some places. Keep in mind the depth recommendation can vary slightly - depending on the type of mulch used, the area that it is being applied to, and what type of plants are growing there. For instance, some folks use even deeper layers of straw mulch since it is very light, starts out quite fluffy, and compacts over time.

Preparing the surface

You may need to do somegroundwork before mulching (though not always). If weed suppression is your goal and weeds are already present, it is best to thoroughly weed the area before applying mulch. Or, if you're dealing with incredibly invasive and persistent weeds in open areas such as pathways, consider laying down a layer of cardboard or longer-lasting synthetic material like geo-textile weed barrier fabric first. Then, spread a more natural and attractive-looking mulch material on top.

When to avoid mulch (or go light on it)

Avoid piling mulch right up against the stems of plants or tree trunks. Constant contact with moist mulch could cause tender plant stalks to rot. It may also make plants more susceptible to attack by slugs or other pests hiding in the mulch. This is especially true for freshly planted young seedlings. Therefore, we usually keep our garden mulch pulled back by at least a couple inches around the base of plants in our raised garden beds (or at least until they mature and become more hardy). For trees, it is best to maintain about a 1-foot open ring of space around the tree trunk, or 4 to 6 inches from each side.

If you're growing bulbs or perennials that die back in the winter, lightly pull back any deep mulch layers in the springtime to promote faster growth. Also, just as mulch does a great job at smothering emerging weeds, keep in mind that it can do the same to your sprouting seeds. Therefore, you would not want to direct-sow a bunch of veggie seeds in a garden bed and then heavily mulch over it. Wait to apply thick mulch until after everything has had a chance to sprout and grow a few inches tall.

A nice rich 2-inch layer of compost and fine shredded bark in our raised beds, applied after transplanting the seedlings that were raised in our greenhouse.

When to Apply Mulch

The best time of year to apply mulch is in early to mid-spring, and again in the fall.

Mulching the garden in spring gives everything a fresh look and helps prepare the soil for the growing season ahead. Getting ahead of the emerging spring weeds is ideal, thwarting their efforts to pop up as the soil warms. If you also like to add slow-release granular fertilizer to your garden in the spring, I suggest sprinkling that over the soil surface first. Then, spread your new mulch and water everything in. In a veggie bed, wait to heavily mulch until after any directly-sown seeds have sprouted. However, a thin layer of mulch can help prevent the top soil from drying out and aid in seed germination.

In the fall, a fresh layer of mulch prepares your landscape for the cold winter months ahead. A thick, warm, fuzzy blanket of mulch will insulate the soil and protect plant roots from freezing cold and snow. It will also prevent soil from washing away with excessive rain. As the organic mulch materials sit, mellow, and decompose over winter, they release nutrients and nourish the soil food web in preparation for spring.

I should mention that not all mulch will need to be refreshed that often. Mulch that decomposes slower may only need to be replenished once per year, or less. Or, if it has slightly compacted or only partially broken down, consider adding only a light 1-inch layer instead of a full new 2 or 3 inches.

Types of Garden Mulch

As you look around our garden, there is virtually no exposed soil to be found. Every "open" area is covered with mulch - be it gravel, bark, compost, or even living mulch provided by sprawling plants. Mulch can (and should!) be applied to a wide variety of garden spaces. For example, in vegetable beds, established perennial areas, herb or flower beds, pathways, around shrubs or under trees, and even in potted plants. However, you may want to use different types of mulch for distinct areas!

See a list of popular garden mulch options below.

Common materials used for mulch:

Bark, including chunky bark, fine bark, or shredded bark. You can buy bagged bark products, or order bulk bark from a landscape supply company. Another option is to call up your local tree-trimmer to see if they have any wood chips to spare! I highly suggest using natural bark, not treated or dyed bark products. Note: There is a common misconception that bark or other wood products 'rob' nitrogen from the soil. While it is true that it does draw up some nitrogen, it is small and temporary. I am not personally concerned about it. As long as you're routinely replenishing soil with mild fertilizer and compost (especially for hungry vegetable garden beds), the mulch eventually breaks down to feed the soil anyways.

Compost (and manure) - either homemade compost, bagged or bulk compost, or composted manures. The fine texture and nutrient density of compost makes it a wonderful mulch option for vegetable garden beds, though not quite as long-lasting for broader areas. Keep in mind that fresh animal manure is not the same as well-aged composted manures. Fresh manure can be too rich in nitrogen and potentially harm plants.

Other green or dried plant matter. Plant matter such as cut cover crops, pine needles, or dry grass clippings also make excellent garden mulch. We don't have access to pine needles or grass, but love to collect various plant materials from around the garden for mulch. Especially nutrient-rich plants like comfrey, yarrow, borage leaves, and fava bean stalks or leaves. Chop them into smaller pieces before spreading over the soil surface.

Synthetic ground cover. There are several types of man-made mulch products available, such as black plastic sheeting or woven geotextile weed barrier fabric. While they will not break down and contribute to soil fertility like organic garden mulch, synthetic products are more durable - and sometimes more effective. That is, if you choose high quality ones that don't readily rip and tear, like some do! Also seek out materials that are readily permeable to water. Otherwise, plastic sheeting can cause pooling or drainage issues. We use commercial-duty weed barrier fabric below our raised beds and gravel pathway areas. It does a great job at preventing the noxious crabgrass and weeds that were once present from invading.

What type of garden mulch should I use?

The kind of mulch material you choose depends on your individual needs, space, style, budget, and the availability of materials in your area. Furthermore, every type of mulch comes with a unique set of pros and cons. So much so, that needed a designated article of its own! Please see "The Pros and Cons of 8 Types of Garden Mulch" to dig deeper into the unique benefits and also potential drawbacks they each offer.

In general, chunky durable mulch materials like gravel or large bark are best suited for general landscaping around shrubs and trees or pathways. On the other hand, finer organic materials such as compost, straw, shredded leaves, and dainty bark or wood chips make ideal mulch for vegetable garden beds. There, plants are rotated frequently, and you can replenish the mulch once or twice per year as it breaks down and becomes part of the soil biomass. If you use thicker mulch materials in veggie beds, simply plan to push it aside and or work around it when replanting the beds.

Our mulching style

I know you're probably curious, so here is a quick rundown of the kinds of garden mulch we use and where. In our raised garden beds, we use a combination of homemade compost, quality organic bagged compost, and also a bagged "soil building conditioner". The latter is like a very fine woody mulch that has mild slow-release amendments included. Unfortunately, we can't produce quite enough homemade compost to top all 15 raised beds twice per year! We find the bagged products at our local garden centers.

The rock you see around our garden beds and pathways is 3/8" green rock (another local product). It has jagged edges and therefore compacts and locks in place nicely, rather than sinking and moving when walked on (like pea gravel does). We mulch our pollinator perennials, trees, and other shrubs with small to medium redwood or fir bark. In the backyard where the chickens free range, we spread a combination of shredded redwood bark and small bark. (Caution: The natural oil found in cedar is mildly toxic to chickens).

And that's the low down and dirty on garden mulch!

All in all, mulching is an easy way to save water, beautify your space, and keep your soil and plants healthy. I personally find a freshly mulched space incredibly satisfying. If you are new to mulching, I hope this article made you feel pumped to join in! Please let me know if you have any questions, and spread the mulch love by sharing this article! Also, keep an eye out for an upcoming article that will dig deeper into benefits and potential drawbacks of various mulch types. Thank you for reading!

Don't miss these related articles:

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Mulching 101: When, Why & How to Mulch Your Garden ~ Homestead and Chill

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Us organic gardeners love to talk about mulch, and for a good reason! The mindful use of mulch has a direct beneficial impact on soil health, and in turn, the vitality of your plants. It can also save you water, time, money, and effort.

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Adding tea can make the fertiliser and helps increase oxygenation and facilitates the growth of a stronger root system

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https://www.growveg.com/guides/using-eggshells-in-the-garden/

Eggshells contain such an abundance of calcium that they can be used almost like lime, though you would need a lot of eggshells to make a measurable impact

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, written by Barbara Pleasant

Holidays have a way of dredging up old memories, for example my Swedish grandmother's method of putting a dried, crushed eggshell into her old percolator along with the coffee grounds. My grandmother's people came from the north of Sweden where nothing is wasted, but did putting eggshells in the coffee make it better?

Actually, it probably did. Eggshells are made up of primarily of calcium, which readily leaches into warm, acidic liquids like coffee, which has a pH between 4 and 5. Like a low dose of lime, the eggshells probably raised the pH slightly and mellowed its flavor. They also probably enriched the coffee with dietary calcium, which Grandma Ruth would have loved had she known about it.

Indeed, recent research has shown that consuming eggshell powder as a dietary supplement increases the formation of both cartilage and bone in people with osteoporosis, and can significantly strengthen bones of post-menopausal women.

Using Eggshells in the Garden

The calcium from eggshells is also welcome in garden soil, where it moderates soil acidity while providing nutrients for plants. Eggshells contain such an abundance of calcium that they can be used almost like lime, though you would need a lot of eggshells to make a measurable impact. By the time they are well ground, it takes 150 eggshells to make a cup of coarse eggshell powder. I should know. I make precious pulverized eggshells and use them as a dietary supplement for selected plants. Tomatoes that have a handful of eggshell meal worked into the planting site are not likely to develop blossom end rot, and plenty of soil calcium reduces tip burn in cabbage, too.

I have heard ten thousand times that eggshells placed on the soil's surface deter slugs, but when I tried it the slugs just laughed. When some Oregon slug slayers set up two actual tests, they found that a ring of eggshells stimulated slug feeding rather than stopping it (see photo at right). It is a myth that eggshells deter slugs.

Yet eggshells are quite useful in adding calcium to homemade fertilizers, or you can simply make calcium water by steeping dried eggshells in water for a couple of days, and then using the strained water for your plants, including houseplants. Plants that haven't been repotted for some time often perk up quickly when given a good drench of eggshell water.

Clean Eggshells are Safe Eggshells

Eggs are known carriers of salmonella, which should not be present on uncracked eggs that have been well washed, but you never know. Unless the only place the eggshells are going is into the compost bucket, I rinse them well and let them dry in a sunny windowsill.

The dryness should kill any salmonella present, but if you want to store ground eggshells that are safe for you or your dogs to eat (eggshell powder is used as a calcium supplement for dogs, too), sterilize them in a 200°F (93°C) oven for 30 minutes. You can then pulverize the dried eggshells using a mortar and pestle, or let a coffee grinder do the work for you. Stored in an airtight container, crushed eggshells will probably last forever.

By Barbara Pleasant

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written by Barbara Pleasant Holidays have a way of dredging up old memories, for example my Swedish grandmother's method of putting a dried, crushed eggshell into her old percolator along with the coffee grounds. My grandmother's people came from the north of Sweden where nothing is wasted, but did putting eggshells in the coffee make it better?

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Cover crops such as clover, rye, or hairy vetch are planted during off-season times when soils might otherwise be left bare, while perennial crops keep soil covered and maintain living roots in the ground year-round. These crops protect and build soil health by preventing erosion, replenishing soil nutrients, and keeping weeds in check, reducing the need for fertilizers and herbicides.

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joe gardener® | Organic Gardening Like a Pro

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This week, I continue my conversation with Jack Algiere and we shift our focus to cover crops. If you missed last week's episode on crop rotation, be sure to check that out too. Jack is the Farm Director of Stone Barns Center, a highly-regarded expert on sustainable and regenerative farming, and a wealth of information on all of these important aspects of soil health.

Stone Barns Center is located just about 30 minutes from downtown New York City. This spectacular landscape is expertly managed by Jack and his team, providing much of the food for renowned chef Dan Barber of nearby Blue Hill restaurant.

In 2017, we filmed an episode of my show Growing a Greener World® at Stone Barns Center and Blue Hill. While an in-person visit can't be beat, you can tour these leading edge operations by watching our Season Nine episode.

I have been looking forward to this conversation with Jack for a long time, so let's dive in to the rich and diverse world of cover crops in the garden.

Cover Crops

The most effective cover crops don't produce something you can eat. While that can feel like a waste of space for some gardeners, the benefits to your soil are well worth it.

There are many reasons to grow a cover crop and hundreds of varieties to choose from, so how do you know which is right for your garden? Well, that depends on what you are trying to achieve and the effort you are willing to invest. Even the weeds that grow in your garden can be considered a cover crop if you manage them properly.

Cover cropping is all about thinking ahead and managing as you go. Jack calls it choosing your own adventure. The primary function of a cover crop is to protect the soil surface, but in addition, it can provide your soil environment rest, nutrition, aeration, or "exercise" - or a combination of those benefits.

As a general rule, cover crops are sown in a garden space after the season for edible crops has ended. Once your summer crops are spent and removed from the space, the cover crop is grown within the space during the fall and winter season.

There are three basic families of cover crops, and they each offer specific benefits and challenges:

Grains - like annual grasses, rye, oats, and wheat These crops build biomass and break up soil compaction with extensive root systems. Their leaves also improve water infiltration by slowing down the movement of water from rain or overhead irrigation.

Legumes - like peas, soybeans, clover, and vetch These are commonly known as nitrogen-fixers. The varieties within this family each do slightly different things.

Broadleaves - like buckwheat, mustard, and alyssum These germinate quickly to shade out undesirables, like weeds, and they are easy to turn in for nutrient benefits.

Some of the varieties within each family are perennial and some are annual. Like other plants, their life cycle will often depend on your hardiness zone.

Let's explore some examples.

If you want to add to the nutrient bank in your soil, plan ahead to incorporate legumes or grasses as a cover crop at the end of the summer season. Both these families of cover crops draw more photosynthesis than others, so when you allow them to grow to the proper stage and incorporate the plant material back into the soil, the nutrients held in the plants are released into the soil food web to feed your future edible crops.

If your soil is compacted, the deep roots of grain cover crops will break up and aerate the soil naturally, while also adding organic material and nutrients.

You can watch the episode of Growing a Greener World where I demonstrated cover crops in my raised beds - what they look like and how I incorporated them back into the soil. That episode focused on traditional cover cropping, but there are many variations you can use in your garden.

Some cover crops can require time and a little brute force to work in. Winter rye is a common option, in part because it will grow through even harsh winters. As a grain, its deep roots aerate soil, and it's a great source for feeding your soil with nutrients.

That said, the deep roots of winter rye can require a lot of work on your part to turn over into the soil, so if that's not realistic for you, consider some gentler options. Austrian winter peas can be much easier to work in, but they provide many of the same nutrient and soil protection benefits you may need from a cover crop.

Red clover can be another gentler option, and it can be planted even in early spring, if you didn't get around to planting a cover crop at the end of the summer season. Red clover is so resilient, you can broadcast the seed onto frozen ground. The seed will survive ongoing cold temperatures and will sprout as temperatures warm and the soil softens. This is known as frost seeding. As long as you broadcast the seeds before the first sign of weeds sprouting, the red clover will have time to germinate, grow and be ready to work into the soil before you plant your edibles after the last risk of frost has passed.

So, when is a cover crop ready to work into the soil? Jack explains that the plant is storing up nutrients right through the point at which it sets flower. Once the crop has set flower, it's at the apex of benefit.

The sugars produced by the plant are focused in the flower. While in that form, everything you want transferred from the flower into the soil food web is at the perfect stage. It's also easier to kill the cover crop while it's in the flowering stage, and ultimately, cover crops are grown to be killed and put back to use in the soil.

When a flower transforms to seed, the sugars in the flower turn to starch. As a starch, the energy and nutrient benefit are no longer available to the soil. So, the ideal time to cut down a cover crop is after flowering and before the seeds set.

It's these same principles that apply when cultivating the weeds in your garden as a cover crop. There are nutrients stored in the foliage, flowers and roots of the weed. As long as you turn it back into the soil before the weed goes to seed, you're turning lemons into lemonade by preventing seeds from spreading - and using the weed to feed your soil.

Cut the growth of any cover crop close to the soil surface, and then, you have two options:

1. Turn the plant material and the roots into the soil to take advantage of the nutrients stored in all the plant materials.

2. Add the cut foliage to your compost pile and turn just the roots into the soil.

Option one feeds the most nutrients and organic matter directly into your soil, but it can also take more effort to mix that much material into your garden bed. Option two can provide plenty of benefit with less physical effort. The nutrients within the foliage will still find their way into your soil once the composted material is added to your bed later.

Once you turn the plant materials into the soil, there are certain microorganisms which are triggered to go into digestion mode. They go to work to break down all that fresh organic material. If you sow seeds during this period, the seeds may actually be digested right along with the cover crop.

Jack recommends that you allow 2-4 weeks for the cover crop to be broken down by the soil food web before you sow any edible crops. Roots break down more quickly than foliage, so if you are short on time, turning in just the roots will reduce that digestion period.

Once the "digesters" in the soil have done their work, other microorganisms will go into action to do different things, and it's safe to plant. You will likely still see some dry plant material in the soil at that point. That's not an indication that the digestion period isn't over, it just takes longer for some of those materials to be broken down.

So how does all of this impact soil structure? After all, most gardeners now know that it can be detrimental to break up existing soil structure, which is why a no-till approach is becoming commonly-accepted as most beneficial for a healthy soil food web and, therefore healthy soil.

In Jack's experiences at Stone Barns, he's found that cover crops and the no-till approach can be complimentary. Vegetable crops prefer soil which has been disturbed and aerated, but tilling tends to go deeper than is beneficial. When cover crops are turned in, it's just the first several inches of the soil which are impacted. The complex soil structure further down is left intact.

Tillers tend to reach further into the soil surface, breaking up more of the structure without the benefit of all the organic material and nutrient benefit provided by the cover crop.

A Cover Crop Alternative

Perhaps you have limitations that prevent you from working with cover crops at all? Mulch is a great low-maintenance alternative. Natural mulch materials protect the soil from harsh elements and erosion. The mulch will break down over time to provide organic material and nutrients to the soil, and there's no need to expend effort to turn anything in to the surface.

I teach on the benefits of natural mulch all the time. It's one of the single best things you can do for the health of your garden. I plant cover crops at the GardenFarm occasionally, but not every year. More often than not, I use mulch instead.

I have to say that the seasons after I planted a cover crop, my soil is even richer and healthier than the years I don't. Frankly, it's amazing. But some years, working with a cover crop just isn't feasible for me for one reason or another. You know what? My soil is still amazing thanks to my organic amendments and the natural mulch that I never fail to use. It's not quite as amazing as post-cover crop, but it's pretty darn close.

So don't feel the pressure to cover crop every season - or any season - but never skip the mulch.

Jack and the team at Stone Barns rely on mulch too. He loves using straw and, in spring, he and the team simply pull the straw to the side and plant in the soil beneath it, leaving the straw on the exposed soil areas.

There are living mulches too - which might be the perfect compromise between cover crops and mulch in your garden. Alyssum and white clover will protect the soil and feed nutrients back to it. They can be planted around your edibles without out-competing them, and they have the added benefit of drawing in pollinators.

The team at Stone Barns Center often plants alyssum and clover under the tomato crops. Did I mention they look great in the garden too?

So Many Cover Crop Options

If you plant late fall season crops, like kale, try adding crimson clover or oats around your kale plants. If you sow the seeds in early fall, the roots of the cover crop won't be mature enough to compete with your producing kale. Once the kale is done for the year, allow the plants to die in place, the cover crop will grow up around the dead kale plants to protect the soil through the winter and be ready to turn into the soil in spring.

Did you know some cover crops, like mustard, release chemicals into the soil which deter some harmful nematodes and grubs? There are so many ways the natural world can work for us - without ever requiring that we reach for a treatment product.

At Stone Barns Center, the team often uses cover crop mixes. The diversity of the mix adds to the diversity of the benefit to the whole system. They also use Dutch white clover as a living mulch on their pathways. The clover isn't aggressive enough to outgrow the space, but it's tough enough to take foot traffic.

There is so much more to the world of cover crops than you have probably ever imagined. In fact, it can be a bit overwhelming. Don't get bogged down in paralysis by analysis. There are great resources at your disposal to help.

Many seed companies sell cover crops, and their staff is often happy to guide you in your selection. Their advice will be based on your unique needs - the area in which you garden, the season in which you want to plant a cover, the other plants you are wanting to grow, and your cover crop goals (like building fertility or breaking up soil compaction).

Contact your local seed company. They can be an invaluable resource to get you started, but then, don't be afraid to just keep experimenting. Seeds are fairly inexpensive. Try something new and observe the results. Everyone's soil and conditions are different and will change from year to year. A gardener's most powerful tool is the willingness to experiment.

As we try new things and observe results, we learn what works and what doesn't. We also learn how to be more precise in our choices and our timing. Don't fear failure - those are learning opportunities. Embrace the journey.

Speaking of journeys, I can't wrap this up without suggesting that you make a journey to Stone Barns Center sometime. The Center is open to visitation and holds frequent classes to teach more on cover crops, crop rotation, and all the unique agriculture management techniques they employ. It's also just a beautiful place to visit. I loved the time I spent there with the Growing a Greener World crew in 2017 and am looking forward to getting back soon.

Be sure to listen in to my conversation with Jack. He offers so much information and other specific examples for you to consider in your gardening. Scroll to the top of the page and click the Play icon in the green bar under the page title. I hope you enjoy. I sure did.

Which cover crops have you used in your garden? I would love to hear about your experiences in the Comments section below, and our shared stories help other gardeners in their journey too.

Links & Resources
Episode 048: The Simple Science Behind Great Gardening, with Lee Reich Episode 099: Understanding Crop Rotation: The Basics and Beyond, with Jack Algiere joegardener Video: No-Till Gardening: If You Love Your Soil, Ditch the Tiller joegardener Newsletter joegardener Facebook joegardener Facebook Group joegardener Instagram joegardenerTV YouTube joegardener Twitter Growing a Greener World® Episode 512: Fall Garden Prep Growing a Greener World® Episode 901: Stone Barns Center & Blue Hill: The Best of Food and Agriculture Stone Barns Center Blue Hill at Stone Barns Restaurant The Third Plate: Field Notes on the Future of Food, by Dan Barber
Milorganite® - Our podcast episode sponsor and Brand Partner of joegardener.com

About Joe Lamp'l

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Understanding Cover Crops |The Basics and Beyond | joe gardener®

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This week, I continue my conversation with Jack Algiere and we shift our focus to cover crops. If you missed last week's episode on crop rotation, be sure to check that out too. Jack is the Farm Director of Stone Barns Center, a highly-regarded expert on sustainable and regenerative farming, and a wealth of information on all of these important aspects of soil health.

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Using compost and garden waste improves the soil in your garden and reduces the amount of waste that goes to the landfill.

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https://youhadmeatgardening.com/best-music-for-plants/#:~:text=Heavy%20metal%20music%2C%20together%20with%20new%20age%20and,same%20way%20excess%20water%20or%20heavy%20winds%20do.

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Classical & Rock Music for Plants: Do Plants Like Music?

There's plenty of research on this matter, however, there are no definitive conclusions. If you ever asked yourself what is the best music for plants to grow or do plants grow faster with music, we are here to present you with the results we obtained through our experiment.

What is the Best Music to Play for Plants?

Some say classical music is the best music for plants, while others tend to agree any type will yield the same results as long as it's within acceptable noise levels. We decided to put the many theories on the effect of music on plant growth to the test.

Therefore, we conducted our own experiment on with our plants and equipment to find out what kind of music do plants like. Read on to see how we did it, what plants we used, and how we measured the impact of music on plants. You can also use the illustrated results below to check out our results:

Does Music Help Plants Grow? Here's the Research:

It's generally well-accepted that music affects plant growth and health and we also know why:

Certain sound frequencies stimulate the movement of cytoplasm in the plants' cells, which boosts metabolism and, therefore, growth.

Sound also influences the opening and closing of stomata - the tiny pores that act like primitive lungs on plants. Music helps a stoma stay open for longer, thus taking in more air and growing faster.

Some sound frequencies activate genes that speed up plant growth.

Further research on the type of music for plants and sound frequency concluded to the following results:

Classical music made plants grow better, bushier, and greener, with healthier stems.

Jazz music also accelerated growth and made plants fuller.

Heavy metal music, together with new age and Celtic tunes increase both plant mass AND fruit taste.

Country and western music for plants had no effects on development.

Noisy rock music damages plants in the same way excess water or heavy winds do.

Previous Studies & Experiments on the Best Music for Plants

Here's a short rundown of some previous experiments on the effects of music for plants:

Advances in Effects of Sound Waves on Plants

These experiments have been conducted both on open field cultures and greenhouse plants using various levels of sound pressure and frequencies. The research was coordinated by Reda HE Hassanien, Tian-Zhen HOU, Yu-Feng LI, and Bao-Ming LI, and findings were published in the Journal of Integrative Agriculture.

Findings:

Sound waves of 100 dB and 1 kHz played for one hour at a distance of 0.2 meters (7.8 inches):

Sped up the division and cell wall fluidity in callus cells. Researchers also noticed the activity of endogenous hormones and protective enzymes has been enhanced.

The same sound waves also increased sugar and soluble protein contents.

Sound waves of 0.1 to 1 kHz and 65-75 dB played for 3 hours every 2 days from a distance of 30 to 60 meters (98.5 to 197 feet):
Significantly increased yield, as follows:

Cucumber by 37.1%.

Sweet pepper by 30.5%.

Cotton by 22.7%.

Lettuce by 19.6%.

Spinach by 19.6%.

Wheat by 17%.

Tomato by 13.2%.

Rice by 11.4%.

Strengthened plants' immune systems and decreased the incidence of pests and diseases as follows:

Sheath blight of rice by 50%.

Late blight by 11%.

Gray mold by 9%.

Aphids by 8%.

Virus disease in tomatoes by 8%.

Spider mites by 6%.

Dr. T. C. Singh's Experiments on Plants and Music (1962)

Dr. Singh worked at Annamalai University as head of the Botany Department in 1962 when he decided to test the effect of music on plants.

He used balsam plants (Impatiens glandulifera) and initially chose classical music; later on, he tried out raga music played on different instruments (flute, violin, harmonium, and Reena, an Indian instrument Google knows absolutely nothing about from the looks of it). He later repeated the experiment with local field crops using gramophones and loudspeakers.

Findings:

Balsam plants grow 20% faster in height and 72% in biomass when listening to music.

Crop height and overall size increased with 25% to 60%.

Violin was the most effective in boosting growth among all instruments he tried out.

Sir Jagadish Chandra Bose's Science Experiments on Plants (early 1900s)

Sir Bose, a famous polymath (physicist, biologist, biophysicist, botanist, archaeologist), spent his life studying how plants respond to environmental variables. Naturally, his research also touched upon the effect of music on plants.

Findings:

Plants are, indeed, sensitive to sounds and generally grow better when exposed to them.

Plants also react to the attitude with which they are nurtured.

You can review the complete documentation of these extensive studies in Response in the Living and Non-Living (1902) and The Nervous Mechanism of Plants (1926).

Therefore, it's safe to assume there is a scientific basis for the effect of music on plant growth. Now, let's see how some of the most popular indoor plants are affected by music!

The Best Music for Plants: Experiment Plan

Start date: February 15, 2019

End date: March 15, 2019

Okay, so all the research we found online got us really hyped - according to what we've read so far, the sound definitely has an impact on growth. But can it really make or break even the toughest of houseplants? That's what we wanted to find out!

We've got three groups, each comprised of six plants in very similar developmental stages:

Heavy Metal Group (the angry ones)

Classical Music Group (the fancy ones)

Control Group (the normies)

I used Spek to analyze the frequency and volume of the music to make sure it doesn't reach unhealthy levels for our plants.

The Experimental Setup

This took us a while to figure out as the three groups of plants need to have identical or very similar environments.

We've ultimately decided to isolate the three groups using three glass showcases and set them up in a 3rd-floor office, in a North-East facing window. Humidity levels were low and, obviously, there were no cold drafts to affect them.

I've repotted the aspleniums, fittonias, marantas, and epipremnums on February 11th (4 days before starting the experiment) and placed them in their showcases to give them some time to get accustomed to their new environments. The jade trees and the cacti can handle another few months in their current pots, so I've postponed their repotting for a bit.

I used Pokon potting soil and clay pellets for drainage. I chose Santino pots because I'm pretty happy with how my own houseplants behave after potting them in such planters.

However, if you want to repeat the experiment or simply get high-quality soil and containers for your houseplants, feel free to check out our guides on the best potting soil products available on the market, and the best self-watering pots and planters for your lovely indoor plants!

Plants' Care

Watering the Aspleniums, Fittonias, Marantas, and Epipremnums once per week has proven optimal so far. I estimate the jade trees and cacti will need watering once every 2 to 4 weeks.

Measuring Progress

We have measured the following aspects once a week:

Plant height

New leaves

Lost leaves

Number of plant babies

Asplenium Nidus

Fittonia Albivenis

Epipremnum Aureum

Maranta Leuconeura

Crassula Ovata

Echinocactus Grusonii

Rock

Classical

Control

Rock

Classical

Control

Rock

Classical

Control

Rock

Classical

Control

Rock

Classical

Control

Rock

Classical

Control

Day 1
(February 15)

Height

7

6

8.5

5.5

4.5

5.5

8

8

9

7

7.5

9

5

4.7

4

3.8

3.8

4

Leaf Count

78

67

82

64

58

69

15

16

17

13

10

13

49

60

54

-

-

-

Plants

3

2

3

7

10

9

5

6

5

4

3

5

3

3

3

1

1

1

So, Does Music Help Plants Grow After All?

The short answer is yes - but it really depends on the type of music and the plants, too!

Check out the weekly progress of our experiment on the effect of music on plant growth or scroll down to see our findings after the whole experiment:

The Effect of Rock Music on Plant Growth

The effects of rock music are overall better than I initially expected - even though most plants preferred classical music, most of our angry outcasts did better than their brothers and sisters in the control group. The only exception to this was the Asplenium which, surprisingly, grew much better in complete silence.

So, is rock music bad for plants? NO! On the contrary, it helps your plants grow better! But let's get into some details!

The Asplenium listening to rock music started with 78 leaves and ended up with 81 leaves total, way lower than the growth registered by the Asplenium in the control group (25 extra leaves), and the one in the classical music group (16 extra leaves). Therefore, according to our Aspleniums, silence is the best music for plants.

The Fittonia in the rock music group ended up with 12 extra leaves and 1.5 inches in height - way better than the control group which only gained 4 new leaves and 1 inch in height during this month. However, it doesn't stand a chance to the one listening to classical music which grew a whopping 16 new leaves!

The Epipremnum that listened to rock music registered the most progress - 6 new leaves and 1.5 extra inches on its longest stem. If it were only up to our pothos plants, we'd declare rock as the best music for plants!

Marantas gave us a textbook example of how music helps plants grow no matter the type - the one listening to rock music unfurled 5 new leaves during this past month and its longest stem grew 1 inch in length. This progress is similar to the one registered by the prayer plant listening to classical music but way better than the one in the control group.

The jade tree listening to rock music is doing the worst of all - it only has one extra leaf and, although it tried to grow more new ones, they were dropping like crazy during the last two weeks of our experiment. In case you wonder why your succulent leaves are falling off for no apparent reason, be mindful of the music you listen to while you are in the same room with them. You never know what discoveries you could make!

The cactus in the rock music group shows the same progress as the one in the classical music group. The one in the control group stagnated.

Major Takeaways

Some plants may like rock music while others may not. For instance, pothos seems to genuinely enjoy rock music and thrive, while our jade tree showed clear signs of wishing to steer clear of this music genre.

But despite being so mixed, the results are much more encouraging than those of other similar experiments, in which plants reportedly died after being exposed to too much rock music (3 hours or more) or literally grew away from the speakers.

In our experiment, most of our plants grew (slightly) faster while listening to rock music than their peers in the control group, but in some cases, they did not fare as well as those in the classical music group.

All in all, nearly all our plants seem to enjoy some music than no music at all, a conclusion in line with the findings of MythBusters during the 'Exploding House' episode.

The Effect of Classical Music on Plant Growth

Overall, our experiment confirms yet again that classical music is the best music for plant growth. Even though there have been some ups and downs for some of the plants listening to classical music, their evolution has been the most consistent and noteworthy.

Nevertheless, it's important to note that rock music is not as harmful as previously thought - in fact, in many cases, the plants listening to rock music did way better than the ones in the control group.

The Bird's nest fern listening to classical music is doing better than the one listening to rock music but doesn't stand a chance to the one in the control group, which is simply thriving.

The Fittonias prove that classical music is the best music for plant growth - the one in the fancy group grew 16 new leaves and 1.2 inches in height, while the one in the control group only popped up 4 new leaves and grew 1 inch in height.

The Epipremnum listening to classical music grew 1.5 inches in height and popped up 4 new leaves. This doesn't hold a chance when compared to the one in the rock music group but it's still better than the one in the control group.

Our Prayer Plants are giving us textbook results - the one listening to classical music popped up 6 new leaves and grew 1.5 inches in length over the last month, a bit better than the one in the rock music group and way better than the control plant.

The Jade tree listening to classical music is doing a bit better than the one in the rock music group with 0.3 extra inches in height and 6 new leaves but still can't compare to the one in the control group (0.5 extra inches and 8 new leaves).

The cactus listening to classical music registered the same growth as the one in the rock music group; the one in the control group stagnated.

Major Takeaway

Classical music for plants is hands-down a much better music alternative for plants than rock music, as our small-scale experiment has shown. So, if you want bushier and happier houseplants Bach, Beethoven, or Schubert need to be your weapons of choice.

Best Music for Plants: Results and FAQs

Before we deliver the conclusion of our experiment, let's see a short round-up of the results while answering some of the most frequently asked questions coming from our readers.

Do plants grow better with music?

Yes. As strange as it may seem, plants do thrive in the presence of music. As you have seen above, it depends on the types of plants you grow and the music you are offering, but as an overall result, sound waves and vibrations have an impact on plant growth.

What is the best music to play for plants?

Our experiment showed that some plants grow better with classical music, while others enjoy classical music. As other experiments and studies showed (we mentioned them already and we give you a bibliography at the end of the article for more references), the best music for plants revolves around string instruments. Research shows that jazz, heavy metal, ragas, and Indian classical music encourage plant growth, the yield of leaves and fruits, and more.

Is rock music bad for plants?

Despite myths, rock music is not bad for plants. As you have seen above, pothos is a true rock fan. It seems that some plants enjoy heavy metal and we would be very curious to learn about other plant experiments involving rock subgenres.

Does classical music for plants help them grow?

It seems so. Classical music appears to be the best music for plants to grow and thrive in your home. Now, keep in mind that classical music is not everybody's cup of tea, so if you plan to listen to some masterpieces while watching your plants grow, make sure you choose something you also enjoy. As we said above, the preferred instruments are the string ones, but if you play piano music to your houseplants and you get significant results, we want to hear about them!

What other experiments for plant growth can you conduct?

If you ever wondered what affects plant growth and you want to perform some experiments on your houseplants (that are hard to kill, otherwise we don't recommend any), check out our experiment on the influence of negative words on plant growth. It would mean using some swear words, but we believe you will get a surprise from the results. You may learn, as we did, that

negative discourse intended to instigate resentment and hostility affects plant growth rate

so it would be better to refrain from this experiment if you love your plants and you don't want to bully them into withering.

Conclusion

Even though both classical and rock music stimulates plant growth and health, the winner seems to be classical music due to the speedy growth it has promoted in most of the plants. Nevertheless, the plants listening to rock music had the smallest incidence of yellowing, browning, or dry leaves, which might mean that rock music offers a steadier and healthier, albeit slower growth than classical music does.

More Sources & Studies on Music and Plant Growth

You Had Me at Gardening

Read Our Week-by-Week Music for Plants Experiment Progress

About the Author - Florina Ionescu

Hi! My name is Florina and I've been a plant junkie for 4 years now. I love nature, hiking, reading, watching movies, and spending time with my friends and my cat. I'm also very enthusiastic about the World Wide Web - I think it's an amazing source of info and a great channel for communication.

SEND AN E-MAIL TO THE AUTHOR

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Classical vs Rock Music for Plants to Grow: Plant Experiment - YHMAG

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There's plenty of research on this matter, however, there are no definitive conclusions. If you ever asked yourself what is the best music for plants to grow or do plants grow faster with music, we are here to present you with the results we obtained through our experiment.

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Using mulch can also save you water, time, money, and effort.

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Us organic gardeners love to talk about mulch, and for a good reason! The mindful use of mulch has a direct beneficial impact on soil health, and in turn, the vitality of your plants. It can also save you water, time, money, and effort. Plus, mulching is an excellent way to use materials you have lying around your yard that may otherwise end up in the landfill. If you're not using mulch in your garden yet, it's time to get on it!

Read along to learn all about using mulch in your garden (or general yard space). This article will discuss what mulch is, the benefits that it can provide, the best time of year to add mulch to the garden, and how to apply it. We'll also explore several natural mulch choices like compost, bark or straw, as well as synthetic materials such as landscape fabric.

Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links to products for your convenience, such as to items on Amazon. Homestead and Chill gains a small commission from purchases made through those links, at no additional cost to you.

What is Mulch?

Mulch is a general term for any material placed on the surface of soil. More often than not, natural organic materials are used for mulch, such as straw, leaves, compost, or wood chips. However, synthetic mulch products like plastic sheeting or weed mat fabric are also commonly used. Or, sometimes a combination of both!

Some mulch materials are thick and chunky while others are more fine; many are temporary in nature while some are more permanent. Garden mulch may be used for one or many reasons, such as to reduce evaporation or to suppress weeds.

Why Mulch Your Garden?

There are numerous benefits to using mulch in your garden! Barren, exposed soil is prone to erosion and runoff of water and/or nutrients. It is also an easy target for fast evaporation. In contrast, applying a nice layer of mulch on top of bare soil will simultaneously enhance the soil's ability to retain moisture, protect plants, and nurture the living soil food web below.

Benefits of mulch:

Finally, mulch layers create habitat for beneficial insects. Take ladybugs for example. These awesome aphid predators like to overwinter in leaf piles or similar debris. However, pest insects may also hide in mulch as well. So, this is both a benefit as well as a potential drawback.

Mulch helps to protect and enhance the Soil Food Web - the network of living things that keep plants healthy! Image Courtesy of Heidelberg Farms via Pinterest

How to Apply Mulch: Best Practices

The general rule of thumb is to spread mulch about two to four inches thick over the soil surface. When mulch is too thick, it can be counterproductive and prevent water from reaching the soil. On the flip side, too thin a layer of mulch may not adequately stop weed growth or prevent evaporation as intended. After mulching, you could water it in to help it settle in place (though it isn't required).

In our raised garden beds, we aim to provide about 2 inches of compost mulch. Elsewhere, our gravel and bark mulch is 3 to four inches deep in some places. Keep in mind the depth recommendation can vary slightly - depending on the type of mulch used, the area that it is being applied to, and what type of plants are growing there. For instance, some folks use even deeper layers of straw mulch since it is very light, starts out quite fluffy, and compacts over time.

Preparing the surface

You may need to do somegroundwork before mulching (though not always). If weed suppression is your goal and weeds are already present, it is best to thoroughly weed the area before applying mulch. Or, if you're dealing with incredibly invasive and persistent weeds in open areas such as pathways, consider laying down a layer of cardboard or longer-lasting synthetic material like geo-textile weed barrier fabric first. Then, spread a more natural and attractive-looking mulch material on top.

When to avoid mulch (or go light on it)

Avoid piling mulch right up against the stems of plants or tree trunks. Constant contact with moist mulch could cause tender plant stalks to rot. It may also make plants more susceptible to attack by slugs or other pests hiding in the mulch. This is especially true for freshly planted young seedlings. Therefore, we usually keep our garden mulch pulled back by at least a couple inches around the base of plants in our raised garden beds (or at least until they mature and become more hardy). For trees, it is best to maintain about a 1-foot open ring of space around the tree trunk, or 4 to 6 inches from each side.

If you're growing bulbs or perennials that die back in the winter, lightly pull back any deep mulch layers in the springtime to promote faster growth. Also, just as mulch does a great job at smothering emerging weeds, keep in mind that it can do the same to your sprouting seeds. Therefore, you would not want to direct-sow a bunch of veggie seeds in a garden bed and then heavily mulch over it. Wait to apply thick mulch until after everything has had a chance to sprout and grow a few inches tall.

A nice rich 2-inch layer of compost and fine shredded bark in our raised beds, applied after transplanting the seedlings that were raised in our greenhouse.

When to Apply Mulch

The best time of year to apply mulch is in early to mid-spring, and again in the fall.

Mulching the garden in spring gives everything a fresh look and helps prepare the soil for the growing season ahead. Getting ahead of the emerging spring weeds is ideal, thwarting their efforts to pop up as the soil warms. If you also like to add slow-release granular fertilizer to your garden in the spring, I suggest sprinkling that over the soil surface first. Then, spread your new mulch and water everything in. In a veggie bed, wait to heavily mulch until after any directly-sown seeds have sprouted. However, a thin layer of mulch can help prevent the top soil from drying out and aid in seed germination.

In the fall, a fresh layer of mulch prepares your landscape for the cold winter months ahead. A thick, warm, fuzzy blanket of mulch will insulate the soil and protect plant roots from freezing cold and snow. It will also prevent soil from washing away with excessive rain. As the organic mulch materials sit, mellow, and decompose over winter, they release nutrients and nourish the soil food web in preparation for spring.

I should mention that not all mulch will need to be refreshed that often. Mulch that decomposes slower may only need to be replenished once per year, or less. Or, if it has slightly compacted or only partially broken down, consider adding only a light 1-inch layer instead of a full new 2 or 3 inches.

Types of Garden Mulch

As you look around our garden, there is virtually no exposed soil to be found. Every "open" area is covered with mulch - be it gravel, bark, compost, or even living mulch provided by sprawling plants. Mulch can (and should!) be applied to a wide variety of garden spaces. For example, in vegetable beds, established perennial areas, herb or flower beds, pathways, around shrubs or under trees, and even in potted plants. However, you may want to use different types of mulch for distinct areas!

See a list of popular garden mulch options below.

Common materials used for mulch:

Bark, including chunky bark, fine bark, or shredded bark. You can buy bagged bark products, or order bulk bark from a landscape supply company. Another option is to call up your local tree-trimmer to see if they have any wood chips to spare! I highly suggest using natural bark, not treated or dyed bark products. Note: There is a common misconception that bark or other wood products 'rob' nitrogen from the soil. While it is true that it does draw up some nitrogen, it is small and temporary. I am not personally concerned about it. As long as you're routinely replenishing soil with mild fertilizer and compost (especially for hungry vegetable garden beds), the mulch eventually breaks down to feed the soil anyways.

Compost (and manure) - either homemade compost, bagged or bulk compost, or composted manures. The fine texture and nutrient density of compost makes it a wonderful mulch option for vegetable garden beds, though not quite as long-lasting for broader areas. Keep in mind that fresh animal manure is not the same as well-aged composted manures. Fresh manure can be too rich in nitrogen and potentially harm plants.

Other green or dried plant matter. Plant matter such as cut cover crops, pine needles, or dry grass clippings also make excellent garden mulch. We don't have access to pine needles or grass, but love to collect various plant materials from around the garden for mulch. Especially nutrient-rich plants like comfrey, yarrow, borage leaves, and fava bean stalks or leaves. Chop them into smaller pieces before spreading over the soil surface.

Synthetic ground cover. There are several types of man-made mulch products available, such as black plastic sheeting or woven geotextile weed barrier fabric. While they will not break down and contribute to soil fertility like organic garden mulch, synthetic products are more durable - and sometimes more effective. That is, if you choose high quality ones that don't readily rip and tear, like some do! Also seek out materials that are readily permeable to water. Otherwise, plastic sheeting can cause pooling or drainage issues. We use commercial-duty weed barrier fabric below our raised beds and gravel pathway areas. It does a great job at preventing the noxious crabgrass and weeds that were once present from invading.

What type of garden mulch should I use?

The kind of mulch material you choose depends on your individual needs, space, style, budget, and the availability of materials in your area. Furthermore, every type of mulch comes with a unique set of pros and cons. So much so, that needed a designated article of its own! Please see "The Pros and Cons of 8 Types of Garden Mulch" to dig deeper into the unique benefits and also potential drawbacks they each offer.

In general, chunky durable mulch materials like gravel or large bark are best suited for general landscaping around shrubs and trees or pathways. On the other hand, finer organic materials such as compost, straw, shredded leaves, and dainty bark or wood chips make ideal mulch for vegetable garden beds. There, plants are rotated frequently, and you can replenish the mulch once or twice per year as it breaks down and becomes part of the soil biomass. If you use thicker mulch materials in veggie beds, simply plan to push it aside and or work around it when replanting the beds.

Our mulching style

I know you're probably curious, so here is a quick rundown of the kinds of garden mulch we use and where. In our raised garden beds, we use a combination of homemade compost, quality organic bagged compost, and also a bagged "soil building conditioner". The latter is like a very fine woody mulch that has mild slow-release amendments included. Unfortunately, we can't produce quite enough homemade compost to top all 15 raised beds twice per year! We find the bagged products at our local garden centers.

The rock you see around our garden beds and pathways is 3/8" green rock (another local product). It has jagged edges and therefore compacts and locks in place nicely, rather than sinking and moving when walked on (like pea gravel does). We mulch our pollinator perennials, trees, and other shrubs with small to medium redwood or fir bark. In the backyard where the chickens free range, we spread a combination of shredded redwood bark and small bark. (Caution: The natural oil found in cedar is mildly toxic to chickens).

And that's the low down and dirty on garden mulch!

All in all, mulching is an easy way to save water, beautify your space, and keep your soil and plants healthy. I personally find a freshly mulched space incredibly satisfying. If you are new to mulching, I hope this article made you feel pumped to join in! Please let me know if you have any questions, and spread the mulch love by sharing this article! Also, keep an eye out for an upcoming article that will dig deeper into benefits and potential drawbacks of various mulch types. Thank you for reading!

Don't miss these related articles:

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Mulching 101: When, Why & How to Mulch Your Garden ~ Homestead and Chill

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Us organic gardeners love to talk about mulch, and for a good reason! The mindful use of mulch has a direct beneficial impact on soil health, and in turn, the vitality of your plants. It can also save you water, time, money, and effort.

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Adding coffee grounds to your soil, increases nitrogen levels which help plants to grow..

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If you make a daily pot of coffee, you have a fabulous source of organic matter right at your fingertips. Coffee grounds can make your garden happier in several ways, and not just that coffee gives you more energy for weeding and pruning. Don't toss the grounds! You can put them to work.

Coffee in Compost

Put coffee grounds in your compost bin. There are two types of compost material: brown and green. Your coffee grounds may be brown in color, but in compost jargon they are green material, meaning an item that is rich in nitrogen. Coffee grounds are approximately 1.45 percent nitrogen. They also contain magnesium, calcium, potassium, and other trace minerals. Other green compost materials include food scraps and grass clippings.

Adding coffee grounds and used paper coffee filters to your compost will provide green compost material. However, it must be balanced with brown compost material, which includes dry leaves and newspapers. There should be a 4-to-1 ratio of brown compost material to green compost material. If you have too much green material your compost pile will start to smell. If you don't have enough, the compost pile won't heat up.

Fertilize With Coffee Grounds

Add coffee grounds directly to the soil in your garden. You can scratch it into the top couple inches of soil, or just sprinkle the grounds on top and leave it alone. In smaller amounts, especially when mixed with dry materials, coffee grounds will give up their nitrogen. Used coffee grounds are actually nearly neutral in pH, so they shouldn't cause concerns about their acidity. Be careful not to use too many coffee grounds or pile them up. The small particles can lock together, creating a water resistant barrier in your garden.

You can also make coffee ground "tea." Add 2 cups of used coffee grounds to a 5-gallon bucket of water. Let the "tea" steep for a few hours or overnight. You can use this concoction as a liquid fertilizer for garden and container plants. It also makes a great foliar feed you can spray directly on the leaves and stems of your plants.

Feed Your Worms

Add coffee grounds to your worm bin every week or so. Worms love coffee grounds! Just don't add too many at once, because the acidity could bother your worms. A cup or so of grounds per week for a small worm bin is perfect. In addition to using coffee grounds in your worm bin, earthworms in your soil will also be more attracted to your garden when you use them mixed with the soil as fertilizer.

Keep the Pests Away

Create a slug and snail barrier. Coffee grounds are abrasive, so a barrier of grounds placed near slug-prone plants may just save them from these garden pests. However, be warned that some researchers quibble with this advice and don't think it is effective. You may want to have a backup plan in mind if it doesn't work. Many cats dislike the smell of coffee grounds and may avoid using your garden as a litter box if you mix coffee grounds into the soil.

Fresh Coffee Grounds for Acid-Loving Plants

While used coffee grounds are only slightly acidic, fresh (unbrewed) coffee grounds have more acid. Your acid-loving plants like hydrangeas, rhododendrons, azaleas, lily of the valley, blueberries, carrots, and radishes can get a boost from fresh grounds. However, tomatoes do not like fresh coffee grounds; keep them out of that area of the garden. This could be a good use for coffee that is getting old in your pantry or a type you bought for visiting friends but isn't your usual cup of joe.

Fresh coffee grounds still have most of their caffeine content as well as the acid. Don't use coffee grounds on seedlings or very young plants, as caffeine can stunt their growth. Be cautious in using fresh grounds around pets or your wire terrier may become extremely wired.

Dissenting Research Into Coffee Grounds in the Garden

One 2016 research study found that using spent coffee grounds in growing broccoli, leek, radish, viola, and sunflower resulted in poorer growth in all soil types, with or without additional fertilizer. The good news is that the coffee grounds improved the water holding capacity of the soil and decreased weed growth. The researchers think the poorer growth was due to the plant-toxic compounds naturally present in the coffee grounds. If you aren't getting the results you hoped for with coffee grounds, you may want to try your own experiments with and without them in your garden.

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How to Reuse Coffee Grounds in Your Organic Garden

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If you make a daily pot of coffee, you have a fabulous source of organic matter right at your fingertips. Coffee grounds can make your garden happier in several ways, and not just that coffee gives you more energy for weeding and pruning. Don't toss the grounds! You can put them to work.

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All that digging, planting and pulling does more than produce plants. Gardening also will increase your hand strength. What a great way to keep your hands and fingers as strong as possible for as long as possible.

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Use Recycled Materials as Gardening Supplies

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Use Recycled Materials as Gardening Supplies

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Recycling helps keep items out of the landfill. Before your go out to buy mulch, weed barrier or anything else you may need for your garden, think about what you already have that could be recycled into what you need. (This green gardening tip can also save you a few dollars, too.)

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When composting tea bags with your Lomi home countertop compositing bin, it is important to remember the balance of items added into the composter. Tea bags can be composted but they will break down faster and generate better soil in the end if they are mixed in with other scraps and materials as well.

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adding vegetables in your soil adds high-nitrogen material