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Contrary to popular belief, small size doesn't necessarily an apartment dog make. Plenty of small dogs are too high-energy and yappy for life in a high-rise. Being quiet, low energy, fairly calm indoors, and polite with the other residents are all good qualities in an apartment dog. And you can find an awesome crate for your dog here to give them a little more personal space in your apartment.
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Breeds with very short coats and little or no undercoat or body fat, such as Greyhounds, are vulnerable to the cold. Dogs with a low cold tolerance need to live inside in cool climates and should have a jacket or sweater for chilly walks. You can find a great jacket for your dog here!
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Some breeds are independent and aloof, even if they've been raised by the same person since puppyhood; others bond closely to one person and are indifferent to everyone else; and some shower the whole family with affection. Breed isn't the only factor that goes into affection levels; dogs who were raised inside a home with people around feel more comfortable with humans and bond more easily.
See Dogs Less Affectionate with Family

Being gentle with children, sturdy enough to handle the heavy-handed pets and hugs they can dish out, and having a blasé attitude toward running, screaming children are all traits that make a kid-friendly dog. You may be surprised by who's on that list: Fierce-looking Boxers are considered good with children, as are American Staffordshire Terriers (which are considered Pit Bulls). Small, delicate, and potentially snappy dogs such as Chihuahuas aren't always so family-friendly.

**All dogs are individuals. Our ratings are generalizations, and they're not a guarantee of how any breed or individual dog will behave. Dogs from any breed can be good with children based on their past experiences, training on how to get along with kids, and personality. No matter what the breed or breed type, all dogs have strong jaws, sharp pointy teeth, and may bite in stressful circumstances. Young children and dogs of any breed should always be supervised by an adult and never left alone together, period.

Friendliness toward dogs and friendliness toward humans are two completely different things. Some dogs may attack or try to dominate other dogs, even if they're love-bugs with people; others would rather play than fight; and some will turn tail and run. Breed isn't the only factor. Dogs who lived with their littermates and mother until at least six to eight weeks of age and who spent lots of time playing with other dogs during puppyhood, are more likely to have good canine social skills.

Stranger-friendly dogs will greet guests with wagging tails and nuzzles; others are shy, indifferent, or even aggressive. However, no matter what the breed, a dog who was socialized and exposed to lots of different types, ages, sizes, and shapes of people as a puppy will respond better to strangers as an adult. Remember that even friendly dogs should stay on a good, strong leash like this one in public!
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Health And Grooming Needs

If you're going to share your home with a dog, you'll need to deal with some level of dog hair on your clothes and in your house. However, shedding does vary greatly among the breeds. Some dogs shed year-round, some "blow" seasonally, some do both, and some shed hardly at all. If you're a neatnik, you'll need to either pick a low-shedding breed or relax your standards. To help keep your home a little cleaner, you can find a great de-shedding tool here!
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Some breeds have hearty appetites and tend to put on weight easily. As in humans, being overweight can cause health problems in dogs. If you pick a breed that's prone to packing on pounds, you'll need to limit treats, make sure they get enough exercise, and measure out their daily food servings into regular meals rather than leaving food out all the time.

Dogs come in all sizes, from the world's smallest pooch, the Chihuahua, to the towering Great Dane, how much space a dog takes up is a key factor in deciding if they're compatible with you and your living space. Large dog breeds might seem overpowering and intimidating, but some of them are incredibly sweet! Take a look and find the right sized dog for you!

Easy to train dogs are more adept at forming an association between a prompt (such as the word "sit"), an action (sitting), and a consequence (getting a treat) very quickly. Other dogs need more time, patience, and repetition during training. Many breeds are intelligent but approach training with a "What's in it for me?" attitude, in which case you'll need to use rewards and games to teach them to want to comply with your requests. Here are some great treats for training your dog to get you started!
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Common in most breeds during puppyhood and in Retriever breeds at all ages, mouthiness means a tendency to nip, chew, and play-bite (a soft, fairly painless bite that doesn't puncture the skin). Mouthy dogs are more likely to use their mouths to hold or "herd" their human family members, and they need training to learn that it's fine to gnaw on chew toys, but not on people. Mouthy breeds tend to really enjoy a game of fetch, as well as a good chew on a toy that's been stuffed with kibble and treats.

Dogs who were bred to hunt, such as Terriers, have an inborn desire to chase--and sometimes kill--other animals. Anything whizzing by, such as cats, squirrels, and perhaps even cars, can trigger that instinct. Dogs who like to chase need to be leashed or kept in a fenced area when outdoors, and you'll need a high, secure fence in your yard. These breeds generally aren't a good fit for homes with smaller pets that can look like prey, such as cats, hamsters, or small dogs. Breeds that were originally used for bird hunting, on the other hand, generally won't chase, but you'll probably have a hard time getting their attention when there are birds flying by.

Some breeds do fine with a slow evening stroll around the block. Others need daily, vigorous exercise, especially those that were originally bred for physically demanding jobs, like herding or hunting. Without enough exercise, these breeds may put on weight and vent their pent-up energy in ways you don't like, such as barking, chewing, and digging. Breeds that need a lot of exercise are good for outdoorsy, active people, or those interested in training their dog to compete in a high-energy dog sport, such as agility. If you want to tire out your energetic dog, you can try this toy that will get them moving!
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10 inches to 1 foot, 2 inches tall at the shoulder

The Pug's comical face, with deep wrinkles around big, dark eyes and a flat round face, can't help but make you smile. It is believed that the Pug's name comes from the Latin word for "fist" because his face resembles a human fist.

Pugs are clowns at heart, but they carry themselves with dignity. Pugs are playful dogs, ready and able for games, but they are also lovers, and must be close to their humans. Pugs love to be the center of attention, and are heartsick if ignored.

Pugs are square and thickset, usually weighing no more than 20 pounds. Their heads are large and round, with large, round eyes. They have deep and distinct wrinkles on their faces. Legend has it that the Chinese, who mastered the breeding of this dog, prized these wrinkles because they resembled good luck symbols in their language. Especially prized were dogs with wrinkles that seemed to form the letters for the word "prince" in Chinese.

The moles on a Pug's cheeks are called "beauty spots." His muzzle or mask is black, with a clearly defined "thumb mark" on the forehead and a black trace down the center of the back. His ears are smooth, black and velvety. He has a characteristic undershot jaw (the lower teeth extend slightly beyond the upper teeth) and a tightly curled tail.

Personality-wise, Pugs are happy and affectionate, loyal and charming, playful and mischievous. They are very intelligent, however, they can be willful, which makes training challenging.

While Pugs can be good watchdogs, they aren't inclined to be "yappy," something your neighbors will appreciate. If trained and well-socialized, they get along well with other animals and children. Because they are a small, quiet breed and are relatively inactive when indoors, they are a good choice for apartment dwellers. Due to the flat shape of the Pug's face, he does not do well in extremely hot or cold weather, and should be kept indoors.

Pugs have a short, double coat, and are known for shedding profusely. If you live with a Pug, it's a good idea to invest in a quality vacuum cleaner!

Highlights

Pugs can be stubborn and difficult to housebreak. Crate training is recommended.

Pugs can't tolerate high heat and humidity because of a short muzzle (air cools down when it passes through the noses of dogs with longer muzzles before entering the lungs). When your Pug is outdoors, watch him carefully for signs of overheating. Pugs are definitely housedogs and should not be kept outdoors.

Despite their short coats, Pugs shed a lot.

Pugs wheeze, snort and snore, loudly.

Because their eyes are so prominent, Pugs are prone to eye injuries.

Pugs are greedy eaters and will overeat if given the chance. Since they gain weight easily, they can quickly become obese if food intake isn't monitored carefully.

Pugs need human constant human companion. If you own a Pug, expect him to follow you around in the house, sit in your lap, and want to sleep in bed with you.

Pug enthusiasts are a fun-loving bunch. They love Pug get-togethers, Pug parades, and dressing up their Pugs.

To get a healthy dog, never buy a puppy from an irresponsible breeder, puppy mill, or pet store. Look for a reputable breeder who tests her breeding dogs to make sure they're free of genetic diseases that they might pass onto the puppies, and that they have sound temperaments.

History

Pugs originated in China, dating back to the Han dynasty (B.C. 206 to A.D. 200). Some historians believe they are related to the Tibetan Mastiff. They were prized by the Emperors of China and lived in luxurious accommodations, sometimes even being guarded by soldiers.

Pugs are one of three types of short-nosed dogs that are known to have been bred by the Chinese: the Lion dog, the Pekingese, and the Lo-sze, which was the ancient Pug. Some think that the famous "Foo Dogs" of China are representations of the ancient Pug. Evidence of Pug-like dogs has been found in ancient Tibet and Japan.

In the latter 1500s and early 1600s, China began trading with European countries. Reportedly, the first Pugs brought to Europe came with the Dutch traders, who named the breed Mopshond, a name still used today.

Pugs quickly became favorites of royal households throughout Europe, and even played a role in the history of many of these families. In Holland, the Pug became the official dog of the House of Orange after a Pug reportedly saved the life of William, Prince of Orange, by giving him a warning that the Spaniards were approaching in 1572. When William of Orange (later called William III) went to England in 1688 with his wife, Mary II, to take the throne from James II, they brought their Pugs with them.

It is known that black pugs existed in the 1700s because the famous artist, William Hogarth, was a Pug enthusiast. He portrayed a black Pug and many others in his famous paintings. In 1785, Goya also portrayed Pugs in his paintings.

As the Pug's popularity spread throughout Europe, it was often known by different names in different countries. In France, it was called Carlin; in Spain Dogullo; in Germany Mops; and in Italy, Caganlino.

Marie Antoinette had a Pug named Mops before she married Louis XVI at the age of 15. Another famous Frenchwoman, Josephine Bonaparte, had a Pug named Fortune. Before she married Napoleon Bonaparte, she was confined at Les Carmes prison. Since her beloved Pug was the only "visitor" she was allowed, she would conceal messages in his collar to take to her family.

In the early 1800s, Pugs were standardized as a breed with two lines becoming dominant in England. One line was called the Morrison line and, reportedly, was founded upon the royal dogs of Queen Charlotte, wife of George III. The other line was developed by Lord and Lady Willoughby d'Eresby, and was founded on dogs imported from Russia or Hungary.

Pugs were first exhibited in England in 1861. The studbook began in 1871 with 66 Pugs in the first volume.

Meanwhile, in China, Pugs continued to be bred by the royal families. When the British overran the Chinese Imperial Palace in 1860, they discovered several Pugs, and brought some of the little dogs back to England with them.

Two Pugs named Lamb and Moss were brought to England. These two "pure" Chinese lines were bred and produced Click. He was an outstanding dog and was bred many times to dogs of both the Willoughby and Morrison lines. Click is credited with making Pugs a better breed overall and shaping the modern Pug as we know it today.

Pugs became very popular during the Victorian era and were featured in many paintings, postcards, and figurines of the period. Often, they were depicted wearing wide, decorative collars or large bows around their short, thick necks.

Queen Victoria had many Pugs, and also bred them. The queen preferred apricot-fawn Pugs, whereas another Pug fancier, Lady Brassey, made black Pugs fashionable after she brought some back from China in 1886.

Pugs were introduced to the United States after the Civil War, and the breed was recognized by the American Kennel Club in 1885. At first, Pugs were very popular, but by the turn of the century, interest in the breed waned. A few dedicated breeders kept breeding and, after some years, the breed regained popularity. Founded in 1931, the Pug Dog Club of America was also recognized by the AKC that year.

Size

Pugs weigh between 14 and 18 pounds (male and female). Generally, they are 10 to 14 inches tall at the shoulder.

Personality

Don't expect a Pug to hunt, guard or retrieve. Pugs were bred to be companions, and that's exactly what they do best. The Pug craves affection - and your lap - and is very unhappy if his devotion isn't reciprocated.

He tends to be a sedentary dog, content to sit in your lap as you read a book or watch a movie. This doesn't mean the Pug is a stick-in-the-mud. Au contraire. He is a playful, comical dog that enjoys living it up, and delights his owner with silly antics.

Temperament is affected by a number of factors, including heredity, training, and socialization. Puppies with nice temperaments are curious and playful, willing to approach people and be held by them. Choose the middle-of-the-road puppy, not the one who's beating up his littermates or the one who's hiding in the corner.

Always meet at least one of the parents - usually the mother is the one who's available - to ensure that they have nice temperaments that you're comfortable with. Meeting siblings or other relatives of the parents is also helpful for evaluating what a puppy will be like when he grows up.

Like every dog, the Pug needs early socialization - exposure to many different people, sights, sounds, and experiences - when they're young. Socialization helps ensure that your Pug puppy grows up to be a well-rounded dog.

Enrolling him in a puppy kindergarten class is a great start. Inviting visitors over regularly, and taking him to busy parks, stores that allow dogs, and on leisurely strolls to meet neighbors will also help him polish his social skills.

Health

Pugs are generally healthy, but like all breeds, they're prone to certain health conditions. Not all Pugs will get any or all of these diseases, but it's important to be aware of them if you're considering this breed.

If you're buying a puppy, find a good breeder who will show you health clearances for both your puppy's parents. Health clearances prove that a dog has been tested for and cleared of a particular condition. In Pugs, you should expect to see health clearances from the Orthopedic Foundation for Animals (OFA) for hip dysplasia (with a score of fair or better), elbow dysplasia, hypothyroidism, and von Willebrand's disease; from Auburn University for thrombopathia; and from the Canine Eye Registry Foundation (CERF) certifying that eyes are normal. You can confirm health clearances by checking the OFA web site (offa.org).

Cheyletiella Dermatitis (Walking Dandruff): This is a skin condition that is caused by a small mite. If you see heavy dandruff, especially down the middle of the back, contact your vet. The mites that cause this condition are contagious, which means all pets in the household need to treated.

Pug Dog Encephalitis: PDE is a fatal inflammatory brain disease that is unique to Pugs. Medical researchers don't know why Pugs develop this condition; there is no way test for it or to treat it. A diagnosis of PDE can only be made by testing the brain tissue of the dog after it dies. PDE usually affects young dogs, causing them to seizure, circle, become blind, then fall into a coma and die. This can happen in a few days or weeks. Since PDE seems to have a genetic component, the Pug Dog Club of America, along with the American Kennel Club Canine Health Foundation, is sponsoring research projects to try to learn more about this devastating disease.

Epilepsy: PDE isn't the only thing that can cause Pugs to seizure. They are prone to a condition called idiopathic epilepsy: seizures for no known reason. If your Pug has seizures, take him to your vet to determine what treatment is appropriate.

Nerve Degeneration: Older Pugs that drag their rear, stagger, have trouble jumping up or down, or become incontinent may be suffering from nerve degeneration. Pugs affected with this condition don't appear to be in pain and the condition usually advances slowly. Researchers aren't sure why it occurs. Since their front legs often remain strong, some owners buy carts to help their Pugs get around, and the veterinarian might be able to prescribe medication to help alleviate symptoms.

Corneal Ulcers: Because his eyes are so large and prominent, the Pug's eyes can be injured easily or develop ulcers on the cornea (the clear part of the eye). If your Pug squints or the eyes look red and tear excessively, contact your vet immediately. Corneal ulcers usually respond well to medication, but if left untreated, can cause blindness or even rupture the eye.

Dry Eye: Keratoconjunctivitis sicca and pigmentary keratitis are two conditions seen in Pugs. They can occur at the same time, or individually. Dry eye is caused when the eyes don't produce enough tears to stay moist. Your vet can perform tests to determine if this is the cause, which can be controlled with medication and special care. Pigmentary keratits is a condition that causes black spots on the cornea, especially in the corner near the nose. If the pigment covers the eye, it can cause blindness. Your vet can prescribe medication that will help keep the eyes moist and dissolve the pigment. Both of these eye conditions require life-long therapy and care.

Eye Problems: Because their large eyes bulge, Pugs are prone to a variety of eye problems, including proptosis (the eyeball is dislodged from the eye socket and the eyelid clamps behind it); distichiasis (an abnormal growth of eyelashes on the margin of the eye, resulting in the eyelashes rubbing against the eye); progressive retinal atrophy (a degenerative disease of the retinal visual cells that leads to blindness); and entropion (the eyelid, usually the lower lid, rolls inward, causing the hair on the lid to rub on the eye and irritate it).

Allergies: Some Pugs suffer from a variety of allergies, ranging from contact to food allergies. If your Pug is licking at his paws or rubbing his face a great deal, suspect allergy and have him checked by your vet.

Demodectic Mange: Also called demodicosis, all dogs carry a little passenger called a demodex mite. The mother dog passes this mite to her pups in their first few days of life. The mite can't be passed to humans or other dogs; only the mother passes mites to her pups. Demodex mites live in hair follicles and usually don't cause any problems. If your Pug has a weakened or compromised immune system, however, it can develop demodectic mange. Demodectic mange can be localized or generalized. In the localized form, patches of red, scaly, skin with hair loss appears on the head, neck and forelegs. It's thought of as a puppy disease, and often clears up on its own. Even so, you should take your dog to the vet because it can turn into the generalized form of demodectic mange. Generalized demodectic mange covers the entire body and affects older puppies and young adult dogs. The dog develops patchy skin, bald spots, and skin infections all over the body. The American Academy of Veterinary Dermatology recommends neutering or spaying all dogs that develop generalized demodectic mange because there is a genetic link.

Staph Infection: Staph bacteria is commonly found on skin, but some dogs will develop pimples and infected hair follicles if their immune systems are stressed. The lesions can look like hives where there is hair; on areas without hair, the lesions can look like ringworm. You should contact your vet for appropriate treatment.

Yeast Infection: If your Pug smells bad, is itchy and has blackened, thickened skin, he may have a yeast infection. It commonly affects the armpits, feet, groin, neck, and inside the ears. Your vet can prescribe medications to clear this up.

Hemi-vertebrae: Short-nosed breeds, such as Pugs, Bulldogs and French Bulldogs, can have misshaped vertebrae. Sometimes, only a few of the vertebrae are affected and the dog is able to live a normal life. Others will stagger and display an uncoordinated, weak gait between 4 and 6 months of age. Some dogs get progressively worse and may even become paralyzed. The cause of the condition is unknown. Surgery can help.

Hip Dysplasia: This malady affects small breeds as well as large breeds, including Pugs. Many factors, including genetics, environment and diet, are thought to contribute to this deformity of the hip joint. Affected Pugs are usually able to lead normal, healthy lives with proper veterinary attention.

Legg-Perthes Disease: This is another disease involving the hip joint. Many toy breeds are prone to this condition. When your Pug has Legg-Perthes, the blood supply to the head of the femur (the large rear leg bone) is decreased, and the head of the femur that connects to the pelvis begins to disintegrate. Usually, the first signs of Legg-Perthes, limping and atrophy of the leg muscle, occur when puppies are 4 to 6 months old. The condition can be corrected with surgery to cut off the diseased femur so that it isn't attached to the pelvis any longer. The scar tissue that results from the surgery creates a false joint and the puppy is usually pain free.

Patellar Luxation: The patella is the kneecap. Luxation means dislocation of an anatomical part (as a bone at a joint). Patellar luxation is when the knee joint (often of a hind leg) slides in and out of place, causing pain. This can be crippling, but many dogs lead relatively normal lives with this condition.

Vaccination Sensitivity: There are reports of Pugs suffering from sensitivity to routine vaccinations. Usually, symptoms include hives, facial swelling, soreness and lethargy. A dog that is sensitive to vaccines can develop complications or die, though this is rare. Watch your Pug carefully for a few hours after being vaccinated and call the vet if you notice anything unusual.

Care

Though playful and rambunctious, the Pug is a low-maintenance companion, making it ideal for older owners. Because they are a small, quiet breed and are relatively inactive when indoors, they are a good choice for apartment dwellers as well.

Their compact package belies a great deal of energy, so expect to be entertained with some goofy antics if your Pug doesn't get a walk or some playtime. They are sensitive to heat and humidity, however, so if you live in a hot or humid environment, be sure your Pug doesn't spend too much time outside.

Light sleepers may also want to invest in a pair of ear plugs - Pugs are prone to snore.

Feeding

Recommended daily amount: 1/2 to 1 cup of high-quality dry food a day, divided into two meals.

Note: How much your adult dog eats depends on his size, age, build, metabolism, and activity level. Dogs are individuals, just like people, and they don't all need the same amount of food. It almost goes without saying that a highly active dog will need more than a couch potato dog. The quality of dog food you buy also makes a difference - the better the dog food, the further it will go toward nourishing your dog and the less of it you'll need to shake into your dog's bowl.

While the Pug's first love is human attention, his second love is food. These dogs love to eat, eat, eat. This, combined with their small stature, puts them at risk for obesity. As a Pug owner, you must show great restraint. Do not indulge him with food. Feed appropriate portions, limit treats and encourage exercise.

For more on feeding your Pug, see our guidelines for buying the right food, feeding your puppy, and feeding your adult dog.

Coat Color And Grooming

Even though the coats are short, Pugs are a double-coated breed. Pugs are typically fawn-colored or black. The fawn color can have different tints, such as apricot or silver, and all Pugs have a short, flat, black muzzle.

The coat is short and smooth, but don't be deceived. Pugs shed like crazy, especially in summer. The wise Pug owner accepts this, and adjusts her wardrobe accordingly, wearing light-colored clothing that better hides hair.

Following that, regular brushing and bathing helps keep the coat in good condition and shedding to a minimum. A monthly bath is sufficient, though some owners bathe their Pugs more frequently. The Pug's small size is handy: you can drop him right in the kitchen or utility sink for a bath.

Regular nail trimming is essential, since these housedogs don't usually wear down their nails outdoors like active breeds do. It's a good idea to clean the Pug's ears every few weeks, as well.

What requires special attention is the Pug's facial wrinkles. These folds are hotbeds for infection if allowed to become damp or dirty. The wrinkles must be dried thoroughly after bathing, and wiped out in-between baths. Some owners simply use a dry cotton ball; others use commercial baby wipes to wipe out the folds.

Additionally, the Pug's bulging eyes need special attention. Because they protrude, the eyes are vulnerable to injury and irritation from soaps and chemicals.

Like many small breeds, the Pug can be susceptible to gum disease. Regular brushing with a small, soft toothbrush and doggie toothpaste helps prevent this.

Begin accustoming your Pug to being brushed and examined when he's a puppy. Handle his paws frequently - dogs are touchy about their feet - and look inside his mouth. Make grooming a positive experience filled with praise and rewards, and you'll lay the groundwork for easy veterinary exams and other handling when he's an adult.

As you groom, check for sores, rashes, or signs of infection such as redness, tenderness, or inflammation on the skin, in the nose, mouth, and eyes, and on the feet. Eyes should be clear, with no redness or discharge. Your careful weekly exam will help you spot potential health problems early.

Children And Other Pets

Pugs love kids. Though small, the Pug is not delicate like some toy breeds, so he is a good breed choice for families with children. However, children who want an active pet to retrieve balls or play soccer will be disappointed with a Pug. Adults should always supervise interactions between children and pets.

Properly trained and socialized, the Pug enjoys the companionship of dogs, and can be trusted with cats, rabbits, and other animals.

Rescue Groups

Pugs are often purchased without any clear understanding of what goes into owning one. There are many Pugs in need of adoption and or fostering. There are a number of rescues that we have not listed. If you don't see a rescue listed for your area, contact the national breed club or a local breed club and they can point you toward a Pug rescue.

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Pug Dog Breed Information, Pictures, Characteristics & Facts - Dogtime

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Contrary to popular belief, small size doesn't necessarily an apartment dog make. Plenty of small dogs are too high-energy and yappy for life in a high-rise. Being quiet, low energy, fairly calm indoors, and polite with the other residents are all good qualities in an apartment dog.

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From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Husky is a general term for a dog used in the polar regions, primarily and specifically for work as sled dogs. It refers to a traditional northern type, notable for its cold-weather tolerance and overall hardiness.[1][2] Modern racing huskies that maintain arctic breed traits (also known as Alaskan huskies) represent an ever-changing crossbreed of the fastest dogs.[3][4]

Huskies have continued to be used in sled-dog racing, as well as expedition and trek style tour businesses, and as a means of essential transportation in rural communities.[5] Huskies are also kept as pets, and groups work to find new pet homes for retired racing and adventure-trekking dogs.[6]

Nearly all dogs' genetic closeness to the gray wolf is due to admixture.[7] However, several Arctic breeds also show a genetic closeness with the now-extinct Taimyr wolf of North Asia due to admixture: the Siberian Husky and Greenland Dog (which are also historically associated with Arctic human populations) and to a lesser extent, the Shar Pei and Finnish Spitz. An admixture graph of the Greenland Dog indicates a best-fit of 3.5% shared material; however, an ancestry proportion ranging between 1.4% and 27.3% is consistent with the data and indicates admixture between the Taimyr wolf and the ancestors of these four high-latitude breeds.

This introgression could have provided early dogs living in high latitudes with phenotypic variation beneficial for adaption to a new and challenging environment, contributing significantly to the development of the husky. It also indicates that the ancestry of present-day dog breeds descends from more than one region.[8]

The term "husky" first came into usage in the mid to late 1700s. At this time, "Esquimaux" or "Eskimo" was a common term for pre-Columbian Arctic inhabitants of North America. Several dialectal permutations were in use including Uskee, Uskimay and Huskemaw. Thus, dogs used by Arctic people were the dogs of the Huskies, the Huskie's dogs, and eventually simply the husky dogs.[9][10] Canadian and American settlers, not well versed on Russian geography, would later extend the word to Chukotka sled dogs imported from Russia, thus giving rise to the term Siberian husky.

Huskies are energetic and athletic. They are distinguished by their hardiness and cold-weather tolerance, in contrast to many modern sprint sled dogs derived from hound and pointer crossbreeds and purebred sprinting dogs which do not have or retain these qualities.[11] Likewise, they are distinguished from laika, as they were not developed for the primary purpose of hunting game and prey animals.[12]

Huskies typically have a thick double coat that may come in a variety of colors.[13] The double coat generally protects huskies against harsh winters and, contrary to what most believe, they can survive in hotter climates. During the hotter climates, huskies tend to shed their undercoat regularly to cool their bodies. In addition to shedding, huskies control their eating habits based on the season; in cooler climates, they tend to eat generous amounts, causing their digestion to generate heat, whilst in warmer climates, they eat less.[14] Their eyes are typically pale blue, although they may also be brown, green, blue, yellow, or heterochromic. Huskies are more prone to some degree of uveitis than most other breeds.[15]

This is a list of dog breeds which contain "husky" in their name. To see a complete list of sled breeds, see Sled dog.

The most commonly used dog in dog sled racing,[16] the Alaskan husky is a mongrel[17] bred specifically for its performance as a sled dog.[18] The modern Alaskan husky reflects 100 years or more of crossbreeding with English Pointers, German Shepherd Dogs, Salukis and other breeds to improve its performance.[19] They typically weigh between 18 and 34 kg (40 and 75 lb) and may have dense or sleek fur. Alaskan huskies bear little resemblance to the typical husky breeds they originated from, or to each other.[18]

The Labrador Husky originated in the Labrador portion of the Canadian province of Newfoundland and Labrador. The breed probably arrived in the area with the Inuit who came to Canada around 1300 AD. Despite the name, Labrador huskies are not related to the Labrador retriever, but in fact most closely related the Canadian Eskimo Dog. There are estimated to be 50-60 Labrador huskies in the world.[20][21]

The term Mackenzie River husky describes several overlapping historical populations of Arctic and sub-Arctic sled dog- type dogs, none of which constituted a breed. Dogs from the Yukon Territory were crossed with large European breeds such as St. Bernards and Newfoundlands to create a powerful freighting dog capable of surviving harsh arctic conditions during the Klondike Gold Rush.[22]

The Sakhalin Husky, also known as the Karafuto Ken (樺太犬), is a breed of dog formerly used as a sled dog, but now nearly extinct. As of 2015, there were only seven of these dogs left on their native island of Sakhalin.[23][needs update? ]

Smaller than the similar-appearing Alaskan Malamute, the Siberian Husky pulls more, pound for pound, than a Malamute. Descendants of the Chukotka sled dogs bred and used by the native Chukchi people of Siberia, a people of Paleosiberian origin, around 2000 BC[24] which were imported to Alaska in the early 1900s, they were used as working dogs and racing sled dogs in Nome, Alaska throughout the 1910s, often dominating the All-Alaska Sweepstakes.[25] They later became widely bred by recreational mushers and show-dog fanciers in the U.S. and Canada as the Siberian Husky, after the popularity garnered from the 1925 serum run to Nome.[26] Siberians stand 20-23.5 inches, weigh between 35 and 60lbs (35-50 for females, 45-60 for males), and have been selectively bred for both appearance and pulling ability.[27] They are still used regularly today as sled dogs by competitive, recreational, and tour-guide mushers.[28]

1. ^ H., Bonham, Margaret (2001). Northern breeds. Barron's. OCLC 1245640121.

2. ^ Schultz, Jeff (28 January 2003). Dogs of the Iditarod. Seattle: Sasquatch Books. p. 41. ISBN 1-57061-292-7.

3. ^ D. K. (2013-10-01). The dog encyclopedia. Dennis-Bryan, Kim, Baggaley, Ann, John, Katie, DK Publishing, Inc. (First American ed.). New York. p. 103. ISBN 9781465421166. OCLC 859155647.

4. ^ Neary, Kathleen (2008-01-14). "How Sled Dogs Work".

5. ^ Keith, Christie (18 February 2011). "Lessons from a sled dog massacre". sfgate.

6. ^ Freedman, A. H.; Gronau, I.; Schweizer, R. M.; Ortega-Del Vecchyo, D.; Han, E.; Silva, P. M.; Galaverni, M.; Fan, Z.; Marx, P.; Lorente-Galdos, B.; Beale, H.; Ramirez, O.; Hormozdiari, F.; Alkan, C.; Vilà, C.; Squire, K.; Geffen, E.; Kusak, J.; Boyko, A. R.; Parker, H. G.; Lee, C.; Tadigotla, V.; Siepel, A.; Bustamante, C. D.; Harkins, T. T.; Nelson, S. F.; Ostrander, E. A.; Marques-Bonet, T.; Wayne, R. K.; Novembre, J. (2014). "Genome Sequencing Highlights the Dynamic Early History of Dogs". PLOS Genetics. 10 (1): e1004016. doi:10.1371/journal.pgen.1004016. PMC 3894170. PMID 24453982.

7. ^ Skoglund, P.; Ersmark, E.; Palkopoulou, E.; Dalén, L. (2015). "Ancient Wolf Genome Reveals an Early Divergence of Domestic Dog Ancestors and Admixture into High-Latitude Breeds". Current Biology. 25 (11): 1515-9. doi:10.1016/j.cub.2015.04.019. PMID 26004765.

8. ^ Dalziel, Hugh (1879). British dogs; their varieties, history, characteristics, breeding, management and exhibition. University of California Libraries. London, The bazaar office. pp. 205-213.

9. ^ Brown, S K; Darwent, C M; Wictum, E J; Sacks, B N (2015-06-24). "Using multiple markers to elucidate the ancient, historical and modern relationships among North American Arctic dog breeds". Heredity. 115 (6): 488-495. doi:10.1038/hdy.2015.49. ISSN 0018-067X. PMC 4806895. PMID 26103948.

10. ^ VLADIMIR., BEREGOVOY (2019). HUNTING LAIKA BREEDS OF RUSSIA. ROSEDOG PR. ISBN 978-1-64426-696-0. OCLC 1231601344.

11. The Oxford Pocket Dictionary of Current English 2009 online ^ http://www.encyclopedia.com/topic/husky.aspx

12. Uveodermatologic syndrome, ^ http://www.vetmed.ucdavis.edu/courses/vet_eyes/conotes/con_chapter_11.html Archived 2012-06-06 at the Wayback Machine

13. ^ a Cary, Bob (2009). Born to pull : the glory of sled dogs. Internet Archive. Minneapolis : University of Minnesota Press. ISBN 978-0-8166-6773-4. b

14. ^ Brown, S K; Darwent, C M; Wictum, E J; Sacks, B N (December 2015). "Using multiple markers to elucidate the ancient, historical and modern relationships among North American Arctic dog breeds". Heredity. 115 (6): 488-495. doi:10.1038/hdy.2015.49. ISSN 0018-067X. PMC 4806895. PMID 26103948.

15. ^ Hoyles, Samantha (Summer 2017). "The Great Labrador Husky". Inside Labrador: 60-64.

16. ^ Losey, Robert J.; Wishart, Robert P.; Loovers, Jan Peter Laurens, eds. (2018-06-13). Dogs in the North: Stories of Cooperation and Co-Domestication. Routledge.

17. ^ MacQuarrie, Gordon (December 1997). "Kenai, Dog of Alaska". The Gordon MacQuarrie Sporting Treasury: 98-99.

18. ^ "Siberian Husky". 15 December 2018.

19. ^ Thomas, Bob; Thomas, Pat (2015). Leonhard Seppala: the Siberian dog and the golden age of sleddog racing 1908-1941. Missoula, Montana: Pictorial Histories Publishing Company. ISBN 978-1-57510-170-5. OCLC 931927411.

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Toggle the table of contents From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia Husky is a general term for a dog used in the polar regions, primarily and specifically for work as sled dogs.

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The Bengal could never be called delicate. They're athletes: agile and graceful with a strong, muscular body, as befits a cat who looks as if they belong in the jungle.

Despite their wild appearance, Bengal cats are actually quite affectionate with their human families. That said, they also have high energy and a fun-loving, playful side. They want to stay active and need a home that can match their energy.

If you can fulfill the Bengal's need for exercise, you'll have a smart, loving cat who can keep you on your toes.

Read below for a complete list of Bengal cat breed characteristics!

Bengal Cat Breed Pictures

Additional articles that will interest you:

Breed Characteristics:

Vital Stats:

17 to 22 inches, not including tail

More About This Breed

History

With his distinctive spotted coat and large size, the Bengal looks like a wild cat on the prowl, but although one of his ancestors is the small, wild Asian leopard cat, he's a domestic cat through and through.

Bengals take their name from the Asian leopard cat's scientific name, Felis bengalensis. They were created through crosses between an Asian leopard cat - which in the 1950s and into the 1960s could be purchased at pet stores - and domestic shorthairs. Jean Mill, a breeder in California, was the first to make such a cross, but not because she wanted to create a new breed. She had acquired a leopard cat and allowed her to keep company with a black tom cat so she wouldn't be lonely. To her surprise, since she hadn't thought the two species would mate, kittens resulted, and Mill kept a spotted female. Breeding her back to her father produced a litter of spotted and solid kittens.

At about the same time, Dr. Willard Centerwall was crossing Asian leopard cats with domestic cats at Loyola University. The leopard cats were resistant to the feline leukemia virus, so researchers were interested in finding out if the trait could be passed on to hybrid offspring.

Various breeders became interested in developing the cats as a breed. Mill was one of them. Changes in her life had caused her to give up cat breeding, but she was ready to begin again. She had acquired some of Dr. Centerwall's hybrids and sought out suitable males to breed to them. One was an orange domestic shorthair that she found in India, of all places, and the other was a brown spotted tabby acquired from a shelter. Bengals today are considered to be one and the same with domestic cats, and any Bengal purchased should be at least four generations removed from any ancestors with wild bloodlines.

The first cat association to recognize the Bengal was The International Cat Association, which granted the breed experimental status in 1983, followed by full recognition in 1991. The Bengal is also recognized by the American Cat Fanciers Association, the Canadian Cat Association and the United Feline Organization.

Bengal cats are so sought after, that a British woman paid over $50,000 for her bengal cat in 1990, dubbing them the "Rolls Royce" of feline companions.

Size

This is a medium-to-large cat. Bengals weigh eight to 15 pounds or more.

Personality

The Bengal is highly active and highly intelligent. This makes him fun to live with, but he can sometimes be challenging. On the whole, the Bengal is a confident, talkative, friendly cat who is always alert. Nothing escapes his notice. He likes to play games, including fetch, and he's a whiz at learning tricks. His nimble paws are almost as good as hands, and it's a good thing he doesn't have opposable thumbs or he would probably rule the world. Bored bengal cats can also adopt some unconventional (and slightly destructive) habits, including: turning light switches on and off, fishing seals out of drains and excitedly plucking CDs from your DVD player.

Fond of playing in water, the Bengal is not above jumping into the tub or strolling into the shower with you. Aquarium and pond fish may be at risk from his clever paws. He also loves to climb and can often be found perching at the highest point he can reach in the home. A tall cat tree or two is a must for this feline, as are puzzle toys that will challenge his intelligence.

On the rare occasions that he isn't swinging on chandeliers or swimming in your pool, the affectionate Bengal will be pleased to sit on your lap. It goes without saying that he will share your bed. And yes, he steals the covers.

Health

Both pedigreed cats and mixed-breed cats have varying incidences of health problems that may be genetic in nature. Bengals are generally healthy, but the following diseases have been seen in the breed:

Distal neuropathy, a nervous system disorder that causes weakness. It can occur in Bengals as early as 1 year of age. Fortunately, many cats recover on their own, although a few relapse.

Flat-chested kitten syndrome, a deformity that can range from mild to severe. Kittens who survive to adulthood usually show no signs once they reach maturity.

Hip dysplasia, which in severe cases can cause lameness

Hypertrophic cardiomyopathy, a form of heart disease that is heritable in some breeds.

Patellar luxation, a hereditary dislocation of the kneecap that can range from mild to severe. Severe cases can be alleviated with surgery.

Progressive retinal atrophy, a degenerative eye disease.

Care

The short, thick coat of the Bengal is easily cared for with weekly combing to remove dead hair and distribute skin oils. A bath is rarely necessary.

Brush the teeth to prevent periodontal disease. Daily dental hygiene is best, but weekly brushing is better than nothing. Trim the nails every couple of weeks. Wipe the corners of the eyes with a soft, damp cloth to remove any discharge. Use a separate area of the cloth for each eye so you don't run the risk of spreading any infection. Check the ears weekly. If they look dirty, wipe them out with a cotton ball or soft damp cloth moistened with a 50-50 mixture of cider vinegar and warm water. Avoid using cotton swabs, which can damage the interior of the ear.

Keep the litter box spotlessly clean. Cats are very particular about bathroom hygiene, and a dirty box may cause them to start using other places in the house instead.

It's a good idea to keep a Bengal as an indoor-only cat to protect him from diseases spread by other cats, attacks by dogs or coyotes, and the other dangers that face cats who go outdoors, such as being hit by a car. Keeping him indoors also protects local birds and wildlife from this avid hunter. If possible, build your Bengal a large outdoor enclosure where he can jump and climb safely. Bengals who go outdoors also run the risk of being stolen by someone who would like to have such a beautiful cat without paying for it.

Coat Color And Grooming

The Bengal could never be called delicate. He is an athlete: agile and graceful with a strong, muscular body, as befits a cat who looks as if he belongs in the jungle. His broad head is a modified wedge shape, longer than it is wide, with rounded contours. Atop it are medium-size to small ears that are relatively short, set toward the side of the head. Large oval eyes are almost round. Joining the head to the body is a long, muscular neck. Supporting the body are medium-length legs, slightly longer in the back than in the front, with large, round paws. A thick, medium-length tail tapers at the end and is tipped in black. When a Bengal rolls over, you can see that another characteristic is a spotted belly.

Enhancing the Bengal's wild appearance is a short, thick pelt that feels luxuriously soft and silky. It comes in several colors and patterns, including brown tabby, seal mink tabby, black silver tabby, and seal silver lynx point. The coat can be spotted randomly or in horizontal patterns, or it can be marbled, with horizontal stripes arranged randomly on a lighter background. Some Bengals have a coat that is described as "glittered." The fur shimmers in the light, as if it were tipped with gold dust.

Children And Other Pets

The active and social Bengal is a perfect choice for families with children and cat-friendly dogs. He will play fetch as well as any retriever, learns tricks easily and loves the attention he receives from children who treat him politely and with respect. He's smart enough to get out of the way of toddlers but loves school-age children because they are a match for his energy level and curiosity. Nothing scares him, certainly not dogs, and he will happily make friends with them if they don't give him any trouble. Always introduce any pets, even other cats, slowly and in a controlled setting.

Like many active cats, bengals have a high prey drive and should not be trusted with smaller prey animals such as: hamsters, smaller rabbits and guinea pigs.

Rescue Groups

Although bengal cats are popular pets, they too find themselves without homes on occasion. If you're interest in adopting or fostering bengal cats, here are a few rescue groups that specialize in this exotic breed:

You can also try CatTime's adoption page that lets you search for adoptable cats by breed and zip code!

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Bengal Cat Breed Information, Pictures, Behavior and Care

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The Bengal could never be called delicate. They're athletes: agile and graceful with a strong, muscular body, as befits a cat who looks as if they belong in the jungle. Despite their wild appearance, Bengal cats are actually quite affectionate with their human families. That said, they also have high energy and a fun-loving, playful side.

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This article is about the modern, long-faced breed. For the traditional round-faced type, see Thai cat.

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Holland Lop is a breed of domestic rabbit that was recognized by the American Rabbit Breeders Association (ARBA) in 1979 and by the Netherlands' Governing Rabbit Council in 1984. The Holland Lop, with a maximum weight of 4 lb (1.8 kg) (as stipulated by ARBA), is one of the smallest lop-eared breeds.

Holland Lops are one of the most popular rabbit breeds in the United States and the United Kingdom. They were first bred by Adrian de Cock, as a hybrid of the French Lop and the Netherland Dwarf. Holland Lops are miniature rabbits that only weigh from about 2 to 4 pounds. They are muscular, relative to their compact stature, and have a wide variety of coat colours. Their lopped ears are one of their most distinctive features.

The history of Holland Lops began with Dutch breeder Adrian de Cock from Tilburg, Netherlands. Holland Lops, or the "Netherlandse Hangoor Dwerg", are acknowledged by American Rabbit Breed Association (ARBA) in 1979 and made known to the public in 1980.

When Adrian de Cock realized that French Lops were over-sized and Netherland Dwarfs were under-sized in 1949, he decided to breed the two with each other in hopes that their off-springs will inherit the optimal size. French Lops weigh anywhere from 10 pounds (4.5 kilograms) to 15 pounds (6.8 kilograms) while Netherland Dwarfs only weigh around 1.1 pound (0.5 kilogram) to 2.5 pounds (1.13 kilogram). Unfortunately, the results were nothing like what de Cock expected. Their off-springs were way too big and died as a result. The mother (female Netherland Dwarf) also died from the breeding process. In 1951, de Cock decided to try the breeding process again. Instead of using a Netherlands Dwarf doe, he used a male Netherland Dwarf buck. He did not think that this was possible at first, because the French Lop was much bigger than the Netherland Dwarf buck. The results exceeded de Cock's expectations. All of the offspring were normal-sized and had standard ear positions. In 1952, de Cock wanted the rabbits' ears to be lopped (hanging limply), so he let a French Lop's and a Netherland Dwarf buck's off-spring breed with the Sooty Fawn, an English Lop with visibly lopped ears. The results were one with lopped ears, 2 with normal ears, and one with semi-lopped ears. At the end of the breeding process in 1955, a Holland Lop weighing less than 6.6 pounds (2.7 kilograms) was born. 11 years after this significant event, de Cock announced Holland Lops weighing less than 4.4 pounds (2 kilograms). Another goal at the time was to publicize Holland Lops. In 1964, these rabbits were finally recognized by Dutch breeders and authorities, which led to the introduction of Holland Lops across many countries in Europe.

Sometime in 1965-1975, these rabbits made their first appearance in the United Kingdom thanks to George Scott, an English rabbit breeder from Yorkshire county who found these Holland Lops. At this time, the average weight of this breed was only about 3.3 pounds (1.5 kilogram). The history of the well-known Mini Lop is also related to the history of the Holland Lop. When Scott found these Holland Lops, he sought to make them even smaller, so he let the lightest Holland Lop off-springs breed with each other. The result of this breeding process was the Mini Lop, which was acknowledged by the British Rabbit Council in 1994. In 1976, Holland Lops made their way to the United States, where they were acknowledged by the American Rabbit Breeders Association 3 years later. Over the years, Holland Lops have traveled across the globe and their breeders' accepted maximum weight has changed insignificantly with the actual weight of these rabbits. Holland Lops are now one of the most well-known rabbit breeds in the United States and the United Kingdom.

Similar to most rabbits, Holland Lops' fur is very diverse with a wide variety of colors and combinations. The first type of fur color is light orange, which can also be referred to as "fawn". The second type of fur color is a mix between purple and grey. Although there are many shades of grey, Holland Lops' grey is usually luminous. The third type of fur color is dark brown, which is distributed evenly across the Holland Lop's fur. The fourth type of fur color is luminous brown, which makes Holland Lops resemble squirrels. The fifth type of fur color is white. Holland Lops with white skin and red eyes can tend to resemble white rats, due to the fact that they are also very small animals with single-colored eyes (for example, humans have very large sclera, the white part of our eyes, while rabbits and rats do not). The sixth type of fur color is dark orange, which is very rare among Holland Lops.

The ears are one of Holland Lops' most distinct features. As mentioned in the history of Holland Lops above, they inherit their lopped ears from the French Lop and Sooty Fawns. These almond-shaped ears are about 4.7 inches (12 centimeters) long. Since Holland Lops are very small, their legs are also short and stubby. They also have claws that are not used very often.

As mentioned above, Holland Lops, unlike humans, have very small sclera. Their eye color is usually black.

Holland Lop's tails are small but straight, sturdy, and fluffy.

The feet of the Holland Lop can be categorized into 6 types: ideal, narrow hindquarters, pinched hindquarters, thin bone, thin long bone, pinched and narrow hindquarters.

Ideal Holland Lop feet are parallel and symmetrical. This foot type indicates that the rabbit will have heavy compact bone, and mass. Narrow hindquarters feet are closer, but still parallel. This indicates less width towards the back, but they still maintain a heavy bone and compact type. Pinched hindquarters heels point towards each other, causing the feet to create a V-shape. This may cause the feet to appear at the bottom when posing for a show. Thin boned feet are shorter and thinner than other structures. This indicates that the rabbit will have medium bone and will remain compact, however will have less mass. Thin, long boned foot structure can cause a change throughout other areas of the rabbit's body, making the head pointier, and the ears longer and thinner. In addition, the feet are longer than thin boned feet, and increase the overall size of the rabbit. Pinched and narrow hindquarters is a combination of the pinched hindquarters and narrow hindquarters foot structures. The heels point towards each other and are closer together, which leads to the hindquarters to appear more hollow.

According to the Holland Lop show standards, they are expected to be muscular for their short size. "Broad shoulders and deep hindquarters" are expected traits from a high quality Holland Lop, according to a judge from the Holland Lop Specialty Club. They also added that the legs should be "thick, short, and heavily boned." In shows, the body is worth a total of 32 points.

The Holland Lop is typically 60 cm wide when fully stretched, as well as 60 cm tall. The Holland Lop's flesh is known to be muscular and well-toned. This is especially true when applied to high ranking show Holland Lops. They have "short rounded noses," which differentiates them from other lop breeds, such as the mini lop. Holland Lops usually weigh between 2-4 pounds. However, according to ARBA show standards, the Holland Lop at maximum weight, is 4 pounds.

Holland Lops as a breed are considered to be very active rabbits. As a result of this, owners can expect to spend time exercising their Lops to "unlock their full potential." In addition to exercise, Holland Lops also require toys to chew on. This is not only important for keeping them occupied, but also for avoiding potential dilemmas. If neglected, this could ensue in the destruction of personal items, or even walls, as reported by some owners.

As a whole, the Holland Lops is considered to be a friendly breed. Although there is individual variation for each rabbit, this is what is reported. Also, Male rabbits, or bucks have been reported to be less nippy than female rabbits, or does, As does tend to experience a stage where they are shyer and nippy. This typically occurs when they would like to be bred. However, the resulting consequence is that females are not as animated.

The Holland Lop is a breed of rabbit that is healthy and simple to care for compared to other rabbits, since the majority requires only basic grooming. There are no hereditary diseases unique to Holland Lops, but they still can suffer from other common rabbit diseases. They are an active breed that require plenty of physical stimulation and playtime to be happy and healthy pets. They live an average of seven to ten years. Holland Lops need weekly brushing in order to prevent intestinal blockages that can be the result of fur ingestion during self-grooming. Additional brushing is needed during the yearly two weeks of molting. Nails should be trimmed monthly.

Checking for overgrown teeth is a must as well, since these can be very painful for the rabbit. A diet consisting of plenty of timothy hay should be enough to prevent this from occurring. In the case that the teeth do become overgrown this can cause their mouth to shift and in turn lead to possible infection and abscesses. The Holland Lop diet should consist of around 70 percent timothy hay along with high quality pellet feed and a variety of fruits and vegetables. In addition, these rabbits need an unlimited supply of fresh water.

To maintain a healthy rabbit the correct housing is another essential element. Cages should be no smaller than 18 inches by 25 inches although it is always better for the cage to be larger than this. Wire bottoms must be avoided too as these are bad for their feet and will cause sore hocks. While they can be kept in a cage, they are very active rabbits that require plenty of physical activity and it is highly recommended to let them have out of cage time to release their energy. The Holland Lop is not at risk for any specific hereditary health issues, but they are still susceptible to the same common health issues as other rabbit breeds are. In younger baby rabbits under eight weeks old they should be watched for enteritis along with gut stasis and bloat. As a lop-eared breed of rabbit they can also suffer from ear infections such as otitis.

Parasites are another common issue to all breeds of rabbit, specifically cheyletiella mites which cause itching and hair loss. Although these can easily be treated by either a spot-on treatment or injection form of anti-mite preparations. Spaying and neutering also decreases the chance of reproductive system related diseases such as uterine cancer that can occur in does.

"The History of the Mini Lop Rabbit and the True UK Mini Lop Standard." Mini Lops Scotland, Mini Lop history article

"Holland Lop Rabbit Facts, Size, Lifespan and Care." Caring for Pets, 14 Feb. 2019, Article on how to care for your rabbit.

Dickson, David. "Holland Lop Rabbit Who Loves to Chew (and Chew Some More)." Best Friends Animal Society, 29 Nov. 2017, Article on Holland Lop's teeth

Fletcher, Ann (2013). "Holland Lop Rabbits The Complete Owner's Guide to Holland Lop Bunnies How to Care for your Holland Lop Pet, including Breeding, Lifespan, Colors, Health, Personality, Diet and Facts", p. 68. Evolution Knowledge Limited. ISBN 9781909820043

Phil Batey, "History of the Holland Lop", dnarabbitry, Article on the history of Holland Lops

"Holland Lop Appearance." hollandloprabbits, 1 Jan. 1970, Blog post on the appearance of Holland Lops

"Four Steps to Healthy Teeth." Petplan, Article on how to take care of rabbit teeth

"Holland Lop - Breed Information and Advice." Petplan, Article on the general information about Holland Lops

"Holland Lop Rabbit Breed." Lafeber Co. - Small Mammals, 14 Feb. 2019, Article on the general information about Holland Lops

"Holland Lop Rabbit Health, Temperament, Coat, Health and Care." PetGuide, 31 Jan. 2019, Article on health and behaviors of Holland Lops

"Holland Lop Type." Holly's Hollands Rabbitry, Blog post regarding Holland Lops' appearance

"Introduction to Holland Lops." Sand N Pines, Article on general information about Holland Lops

"Judging the Holland Lop." Lots of Lops Rabbitry, Article on how to judge a Holland Lop

Tamsin. "Rabbit Hutch/Cage Size Guide." The Rabbit House, 10 June 2014, Article on how to find the right Holland Lop cage size

Shapiro, Amy. "'Lops Are Mellow and Other Dangerous Myths'", House Rabbit Sociey, Article on myths about Holland Lops.

Stroupe, Laura. "Judging Lop Rabbits:Evaluating Ears and Crowns Holland, Mini, and Fuzzy Lops." Show Rabbit Information, Article on how to judge Holland Lops

"The Ideal Diet for Rabbits." PDSA, Article on the ideal diet for rabbits

Howard, Anthony. "Welcome to the HLRSC." Hlrsc, Article on the history of Holland Lops

"What Is a Holland Lop? | How to Care, Lifespan, FAQ (With Pictures)." RabbitPedia, Article on how to care for Holland Lops

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Holland Lop is a breed of domestic rabbit that was recognized by the American Rabbit Breeders Association (ARBA) in 1979 and by the Netherlands' Governing Rabbit Council in 1984. The Holland Lop, with a maximum weight of 4 lb (1.8 kg) (as stipulated by ARBA), is one of the smallest lop-eared breeds.

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The Rex Rabbit wasn't born yesterday, ya know! This is an illustrious little bunny with quite a rich history worth exploring. The Rex Rabbit was developed around 1919 in the French village of Louché-Pringé, by breeders who were impressed by this wild rabbit's beautiful and luscious fur. This stunning breed was developed from a litter of wild gray rabbits . They were selectively bred into a domestic breed and shown in an international rabbit show in Paris in 1924, where there was great interest among breeders because of the recessive rex gene.

These rabbits may have been found int the wild initially, but they quickly exploded in popularity and became coveted as pets. Following its first showing in Paris, the breed was introduced to the United States that same year and was shown by American rabbit breeder John C. Fehr and his partner Alfred Zimmerman. The breed was accepted by the American Rabbit Breeder's Association (ARBA) soon after. It's been a stable in the homes of rabbit lovers ever since. To see a Rex Rabbit in person is to fall hard into bunny love. You'll need to own one immediately and you won't regret it.

The Rex rabbit has short, soft fur that points out instead of against their bodies, making this breed super plushy.

The Rex rabbit has a commercial-sized body type and can weigh anywhere between 7.5-10.5 lbs. once fully grown. The ideal weight for bucks is around 8 pounds and 9 pounds for does. Pretty standard stuff.

According to the ARBA Standard of Perfection, the Rex Rabbit is a well-proportioned animal, with medium body length, well-rounded hips and a loin, ribs, and shoulders that complement them. These rabbits are real lookers. Their head is broad and set close to the body- and, as everything about these bunnies, it's in perfect balance with the rest of their stunning physique. The ears are erect and medium-thick, evenly covered with short plush fur typical of the breed, and their legs are short and straight.

As for the personality and behavior of the Rex Rabbit, you can expect this breed to be docile, friendly, and open to handling and petting. In other words, these are sweethearts and charmers in the rabbit world, destined to bring joy to any home that welcomes them in as a pet. Rabbits aren't always the most social pets, so that makes this breed particularly attractive for bunny lovers who like to get up close and personal with their pets. They love receiving attention from their humans, which makes them ideal rabbits for homes with children (who are often disappointed by the antisocial nature of many rabbits).

The Rex Rabbit has a unique gene which gives its coat a velvety texture. The coat is extremely dense, and the hair's length and quality uniform all across the body. Hairs are short but not shorter than half an inch- or longer than ⅞ of an inch. This short, soft fur that points out instead of against their bodies like most rabbits makes this breed feel super plushy. Unfortunately, their smooth and dense fur made them interesting to the fur industry. Many horrible owners often kept this breed around for their pelts alone. Thankfully, we are long past that unfortunate chapter in the Rex Rabbits history. They are now owned only by those who who love them as living beings regardless of how pretty their fur might be.

Now, when the Rex Rabbit is a popular pet, their unique coat is considered to be just one of their many charming qualities and not a source of profit. Despite its one-of-a-kind coat, though, this breed is not high maintenance when it comes to grooming. In fact, it requires even less grooming than other rabbit varieties. Owners should try to groom this rabbit as little as possible, as over-grooming can damage its coats. If there's excess dirt on your rabbit's coat, simply clean it with a damp cloth. Never bathe your bunny, as this causes great stress and can cause cardiac problems and even result in death. As much as you might enjoy bunny bath time, it's simply not a good idea for your pet. Fortunately there are plenty of easy alternatives.

In the United States, there are 16 accepted coat colors for the Rex Rabbit breed. Some of these include castor, seal, chinchilla, opal, black, white, Californian, amber, as well as Broken (which is any color mixed with white). In other words there is a Rex Rabbit out there to suit any personal pet preference.

Rex Rabbits are great pets for seniors and first-time pet parents as well as singles or couples.

To make sure your bunny stays healthy and happy under your roof, you will need to provide proper rabbit housing . The two main aspects to consider are the size and the type of materials. Enclosures need to be large enough for your rabbit to comfortably stretch out in, have enough room to play, do its business and eat. This translates to at least 12 feet of cage space (6 x 2 feet), coupled with a minimum of 32 square feet of bunny-safe playing space, which is usually fenced by a pen or a playpen gate.

As for the bunny-safe materials of the enclosures, choose indoor cages made of strong wire that have a solid bottom. Wire bottom at the cage is a big no-no, as it will hurt your bunny and lead to sore hocks. The enclosure needs to be lined with bedding, spot-cleaned every day and completely replaced at the end of every week.

In order to become a socialized, well-rounded rabbit, pets need to be taken out of its enclosures as often as possible and allowed to roam free in a bunny-safe room. The longer they interact with their human families, the sweeter and more docile (and playful!) they will become. More often than not, owners decide on giving their rabbit the free reign of home. Well, after rabbit-proofing everything, of course.

Rabbits have extremely strong teeth and a tendency to chew everything, which often leads to catastrophe. Not only that your furniture or shoes could be ruined, but your bunny could die after nibbling on electric wires or eating a dangerous houseplant. So, to avoid any potential problems, ensure that the space is safe for your pet (and your valuables protected) before you let your bunny roam free. In case you have a garden or a backyard where your Rex Rabbit can play, make sure to let them out only in a well-secured pen and with you supervising them.

In terms of their ideal diet, the Rex Rabbit is no different than most other bunny breeds. They require a diet that consists of 70 percent high-quality hay (such as orchard hay) with the rest being a good mix of leafy greens, fruits, pellets and vegetables. Hay such as alfalfa should only be given in moderation and fruits/vegetables which contain high levels of sugar should be used mostly as treats. Always research what kind of food you are giving to your rabbit, as there are some that are safe and others that can make them sick. Additionally, you should ensure your rabbit always has access to fresh and clean water.

Unlike most animals, rabbit teeth never stop growing. Thankfully, they are also constantly being worn down by everyday activities such as chewing their food (mostly hay). If your rabbit's teeth are not being worn down, its teeth may start growing into its jaw and face, causing severe pain. Signs of overgrown teeth or an infection due to overgrown teeth include loss of appetite, slugging activity or drooling around the mouth.

Be sure to check your rabbit's mouth weekly for signs of overgrown teeth and bring them to the vet if you suspect they have an infection, as it can be treated with antibiotics, and veterinarians can also fix their overgrown teeth problem.

In addition to helping your bunny grind down their teeth, roughage (hay) will promote better digestion, too. Rabbits are avid groomers and will ingest a lot of their own hair during the self-cleaning process. Unfortunately, they can't vomit hairballs like cats do, and instead, clumps of hair get stuck inside their intestines. This is known as GI stasis, a potentially fatal condition that affects all rabbits. To prevent it, feed a lot of high-quality hay, groom your pet regularly, especially in the heavy shedding seasons, and inspect their feces for signs of poop that looks like string of pearls.

Ears should also regularly be checked for ear mites, as this is a common condition in rabbits, especially outdoor rabbits.

If you decide to spay or neuter your rabbit, some owners notice that their rabbit tends to be less aggressive, however this breed of rabbit is not known to be hostile, so neutering your Rex may do nothing to its personality but make them calmer. Does can be spayed once they are 4-6 months old while bucks can be neutered as young as 3 and a half months old.

Breeders/owners should try to groom Rex rabbits as little as possible, as over-grooming can damage their coats.

Rex rabbits are generally docile rabbits who won't mind being picked up and petted, especially if it's by a family who frequently lets them out of their cage to explore their surroundings. Like any domesticated animal, it will grow attached to the family member who spends the most time with them and feeds them the most often, but it will generally be unafraid of any person who picked them up with care and pets them.

Its low maintenance makes them great pets for seniors and first-time pet parents as well as singles or couples who would like to try pet ownership. This rabbit breed is suitable for children so long as they understand how to pick up and care for rabbits, as it is a fragile animal and requires a different care than cats or dogs.

In terms of toys, each rabbit has its own personality and may enjoy some toys to chew and entertain itself with. It may be as simple as a toilet paper roll to an elaborate pet toy from your local pet store.
Photo credit: Life on White/Bigstock; nathanclifford/Bigstock; Marina Jay/Bigstock

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Rex Rabbit Breed Information and Pictures - PetGuide.com

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The Rex Rabbit wasn't born yesterday, ya know! This is an illustrious little bunny with quite a rich history worth exploring. The Rex Rabbit was developed around 1919 in the French village of Louché-Pringé, by breeders who were impressed by this wild rabbit's beautiful and luscious fur.

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The guppy (), also known as millionfish or the rainbow fish, is one of the world's most widely distributed tropical fish and one of the most popular freshwater aquarium fish species. It is a member of the family Poeciliidae and, like almost all American members of the family, is live-bearing. Guppies originate from northeast South America, but have been introduced to many environments and are now found all over the world. They are highly adaptable and thrive in many different environmental and ecological conditions. Male guppies, which are smaller than females, have ornamental caudal and dorsal fins. Wild guppies generally feed on a variety of food sources, including benthic algae and aquatic insect larvae. Guppies are used as a model organism in the fields of ecology, evolution, and behavioural studies.

Guppies were first described in Venezuela as Poecilia reticulata by Wilhelm Peters in 1859 and as Lebistes poecilioides in Barbados by De Filippi in 1861. It was named Girardinus guppii by Albert Günther in honor of Robert John Lechmere Guppy, who sent specimens of the species from Trinidad to the Natural History Museum in London. It was reclassified as Lebistes reticulatus by Regan in 1913. Then in 1963, Rosen and Bailey brought it back to its original name, Poecilia reticulata. While the taxonomy of the species was frequently changed and resulted in many synonyms, "guppy" remains the common name even as Girardinus guppii is now considered a junior synonym of Poecilia reticulata.

Guppies are native to Antigua and Barbuda, Barbados, Brazil, Guyana, Trinidad and Tobago, and Venezuela. However, guppies have been introduced to many different countries on every continent except Antarctica. Sometimes this has occurred accidentally, but most often as a means of mosquito control. The guppies were expected to eat the mosquito larvae and help slow the spread of malaria, but in many cases, these guppies have had a negative impact on native fish populations. Field studies reveal that guppies have colonized almost every freshwater body accessible to them in their natural ranges, especially in the streams located near the coastal fringes of mainland South America. Although not typically found there, guppies also have tolerance to brackish water and have colonized some brackish environments. They tend to be more abundant in smaller streams and pools than in large, deep, or fast-flowing rivers. They also are capable of being acclimated to full saltwater like their molly cousins.

Sexual polymorphism exhibited in the Trinidadian guppy (above male, below female)

Guppy breeds

Guppies exhibit sexual dimorphism. While wild-type females are grey in body color, males have splashes, spots, or stripes that can be any of a wide variety of colors. The development and exhibiting of color patterns in male guppies is usually due to the amount of thyroid hormone that they contain. The thyroid hormones not only influence color pattern, but control endocrine function in response to their environment. The size of guppies vary, but males are typically 1.5-3.5 cm (0.6-1.4 in) long, while females are 3-6 cm (1.2-2.4 in) long.

A variety of fancy guppy strains are produced by breeders through selective breeding, characterized by different colours, patterns, shapes, and sizes of fins, such as snakeskin and grass varieties. Many domestic strains have morphological traits that are very distinct from the wild-type antecedents. Males and females of many domestic strains usually have larger body size and are much more lavishly ornamented than their wild-type antecedents.

Guppies have 23 pairs of chromosomes, including one pair of sex chromosomes, the same number as humans. The genes responsible for male guppies' ornamentations are Y-chromosome linked and are heritable.

Two generations of guppies per year occur in the wild. Guppies are well developed and capable of independent existence without further parental care by the time they are born. Young guppies school together and perform anti-predator tactics. Brood size is extremely variable, yet some consistent differences exist among populations depending on the predation level and other factors. Females of matching body sizes tend to produce more numerous but smaller-sized offspring in high-predation conditions. Female guppies first produce offspring at 10-20 weeks of age, and they continue to reproduce until 20-34 months of age. Male guppies mature in 7 weeks or less. Total lifespan of guppies in the wild varies greatly, but it is typically around 2 years. Variations in such life historic characteristics of guppies are observed in different populations, indicating that different evolutionary pressures exist.

Guppies' body sizes are positively correlated with age, and their size at maturation varies highly depending on the predation risk of the occupied environments. Male and female guppies from high-predation regions mature faster and start reproducing earlier, and they devote more resources to reproduction than those from low-predation regions. Females from high-predation regions reproduce more frequently and produce more offspring per litter, indicating that they are more fecund than low-predation females. Female guppies' reproductive success is also related to age. Older females produce offspring with reduced size and at increased interbrood intervals.

One major factor that affects wild guppies' senescence patterns is the mortality rate caused by predation. Guppies from high-predation environments suffer high extrinsic mortality rate because they are more likely to be killed by predators. Female guppies from high-predation environments experience a significant increase in mortality at 6 months of age, while those from low-predation environments do not suffer increased mortality until 16 months. However, guppies from high-predation environments were found to have longer lifespans because their reproductive lifespans are longer. No significant difference is seen in postreproductive lifespans.[dubious ]

In addition to senescence pattern, resource availability and density also matter in regulation of guppy populations. Guppies reduce their fecundity and reproductive allocation in response to scarce food. When food is abundant, they increase brood size. Differential reproductive allocation can be the cause of seasonality of life-history characteristics in some guppy populations. For example, during the wet season from May to December, guppies in the Northern Range of Trinidad reduce their investment in reproduction regardless of predation level, possibly in response to decreased food resources. Population density also matters in simpler environments because higher intraspecific competition causes a decrease in reproductive rate and somatic growth rate, and a corresponding increase in juvenile mortality rate due to cannibalism. It was confirmed that in low-predation environments, guppy populations are in part regulated by density.

Guppies have the mating system called polyandry, where females mate with multiple males. Multiple mating is beneficial for males because the males' reproductive success is directly related to how many times they mate. The cost of multiple mating for males is very low because they do not provide material benefit to the females or parental care to the offspring. Conversely, multiple mating can be disadvantageous for females because it reduces foraging efficiency and increases the chances of predation and parasitic infection. However, females gain some potential benefits from multiple mating. For example, females that mate multiple times are found to be able to produce more offspring in shorter gestation time, and their offspring tend to have better qualities such as enhanced schooling and predator evasion abilities.

Female guppies mate again more actively and delay the development of a brood when the anticipated second mate is more attractive than the first male. Experiments show that remating females prefer a novel male to the original male or a brother of the original male with similar phenotypes. Females' preference for novel males in remating can explain the excessive phenotypic polymorphism in male guppies.

Inbreeding avoidance

Inbreeding ordinarily has negative fitness consequences ( inbreeding depression), and as a result species have evolved mechanisms to avoid inbreeding. Inbreeding depression is considered to be due largely to the expression of homozygous deleterious recessive mutations. Numerous inbreeding avoidance mechanisms operating prior to mating have been described. However, inbreeding avoidance mechanisms that operate subsequent to copulation are less well known. In guppies, a post-copulatory mechanism of inbreeding avoidance occurs based on competition between sperm of rival males for achieving fertilization. In competitions between sperm from an unrelated male and from a full sibling male, a significant bias in paternity towards the unrelated male was observed.

Females' mating choice

Female guppy choice plays an important role in multiple mating. Female guppies are attracted to brightly colored males, especially ones with orange spots on the flank. Orange spots can serve as an indicator of better physical fitness, as orange-spotted males are observed to swim longer in a strong current. There is also the concept of color association to possibly explain mate choice since one of the food sources wild guppies compete vigorously for is the fruit of cabrehash trees (Sloanea laurifolia), an orange carotenoid-containing fruit. The orange coloration that female guppies select for in males is composed of carotenoids, the saturation of which is affected by the male's carotenoid ingestion and parasite load. Guppies cannot synthesize these pigments by themselves and must obtain them through their diet. Because of this connection, females are possibly selecting for healthy males with superior foraging abilities by choosing mates with bright orange carotinoid pigments, thus increasing the survival chance of her offspring. Due to the advantage in mating, male guppies evolve to have more ornamentation across generations in low-predation environments where the cost of being conspicuous is lower. The rate and duration of courtship display of male guppies also play an important role in female guppies' mating choice. Courtship behavior is another indicator of fitness due to the physical strength involved in maintaining the courtship dance, called sigmoid display, in which the males flex their bodies into an S shape and vibrate rapidly.

Sigmoid display of male guppy

Female mating choice may also be influenced by another female's choice. In an experiment, female guppies watched two males, one solitary and the other actively courting another female, and were given a choice between the two. Most females spent a longer time next to the male that was courting. Female guppies' preference for fit males allows their descendants to inherit better physical fitness and better chance of survival.

Aequidens pulcher, a common predator of guppies

Guppies have many predators, such as larger fish and birds, in their native range. Some of their common predators in the wild are Crenicichla alta, Anablepsoides hartii, and Aequidens pulcher. Guppies' small bodies and the bright coloration of males make them easy prey, and like many fish, they often school together to avoid predation. Schooling is more favored by evolution in populations of guppies under high predation pressure, exerted either by predator type or predator density. Coloration of guppies also evolves differentially in response to predation. Male guppies that are brighter in color have an advantage in mating as they attract more females in general, but they have a higher risk of being noticed by predators than duller males. Male guppies evolve to be more dull in color and have fewer, smaller spots under intense predation both in wild and in laboratory settings. Female guppies in a high-predation environment also evolve to prefer brightly colored males less, often rejecting them.

Predator inspection

When guppies encounter a potential predator, some of them approach the predator to assess danger. This behavior, called predator inspection, benefits the inspector since it gains information, but puts the inspector at a risk of predation. To reduce the risk, inspectors avoid the predator's mouth area-called the 'attack cone'-and approach the predator from the side or back. They may also form a group for protection, the size of which is larger in high-predation populations. Although evidence indicates predators are less likely to attack an inspector than a non-inspector, the inspectors remain at higher risk due to proximity to the predator.

Risk-taking behaviors such as predator inspection can be evolutionarily stable only when a mechanism prevents selfish individuals from taking advantage of "altruistic" individuals. Guppies may adopt a conditional-approach strategy that resembles tit for tat. According to this hypothesis, guppies would inspect the predator on the first move, but if their co-inspectors do not participate in the predator inspection visits or do not approach the predator close enough, they can retaliate by copying the defector's last move in the next predator inspection visit. The hypothesis was supported in laboratory experiments.

Predator diversion

When guppies detect a predator, their irises rapidly darken from silver to jet black, which draws predators to attack the guppies' head instead of their body's center of mass. Perhaps counterintuitively, this predator divertive behavior allows guppies to rapidly pivot out of the way as predators lunge where the guppies' head was; this "matador-like" anti-predator behavior was first described in guppies but may be found in other animal species with bright, attention-grabbing coloration located on vital organs, such as epaulette sharks.

Guppies are also host to a range of parasites and one of these, Gyrodactylus turnbulli, has been used as a model system for studying host-parasite interactions. Recent work on this has shown that the interaction between exposure to chronic anthropogenic noise and G. turnbulli can decrease guppy survival. While a short burst of underwater noise has positive effects on parasite densities on the host. Most likely resulting in negative fitness effects for guppies.

Wild guppies feed on algal remains, diatoms, invertebrates, zooplankton, detritus, plant fragments, mineral particles, aquatic insect larvae, and other sources. Algal remains constitute the biggest proportion of wild guppy diet in most cases, but diets vary depending on the specific conditions of food availability in the habitat. For example, a study on wild Trinidad guppies showed that guppies collected from an oligotrophic upstream region (upper Aripo River) mainly consumed invertebrates, while guppies from a eutrophic downstream region (lower Tacarigua River) consumed mostly diatoms and mineral particles. Algae are less nutritious than invertebrates, and the guppies that feed mainly on algae have poor diets.

Guppy food - Daphnia magna

Guppies have also been observed eating native fishes' eggs, occasionally expressing cannibalism, also eating its own young, when kept in laboratory conditions.

Guppies' diet preference is not simply correlated to the abundance of a particular food. Laboratory experiments confirmed that guppies show 'diet switching' behavior, in which they feed disproportionately on the more abundant food when they are offered two food choices. The result shows that different groups of guppies have weak and variable food preference. Diet preference in guppies could be related to factors such as the presence of competitors. For example, the lower Tacarigua River has a larger variety of species and competition for invertebrate prey is higher; therefore, the proportion of invertebrates is small in the diets of those guppies.

Guppies often forage in groups because they can find food more easily. Shoaling guppies spend less time and energy on antipredatory behavior than solitary ones and spend more time on feeding. However, such behavior results in food that is found being shared with other members of the group. Studies also show when an evolutionary cost exists, guppies that tend to shoal are less aggressive and less competitive with regards to scarce resources. Therefore, shoaling is preferred in high-predation regions, but not in low-predation regions. When guppies with a high tendency to shoal were isolated from high-predation regions and were relocated to predator-free environments, over time, they decreased their shoaling behavior, supporting the hypothesis that shoaling is less preferred in low-predation environments.

Birth of guppy fry

A guppy fry in an aquarium at one week of age

Guppies are highly prolific livebearers. The gestation period of guppies varies considerably, ranging from 20 to 60 days at 25 to 27 C and depending on several environmental factors. Reproduction typically continues through the year, and the female becomes ready for conception again quickly after parturition. Male guppies, like other members of the family Poeciliidae, possess a modified tubular anal fin called the gonopodium, located directly behind the ventral fin. The gonopodium has a channel-like structure through which bundles of spermatozoa, called spermatozeugmata, are transferred to females. In courted mating, where the female shows receptive behavior following the male's courtship display, the male briefly inserts the gonopodium into the female's genital pore for internal fertilization. However, in the case of sneaky mating where copulation is forced, the male approaches the female and thrusts the gonopodium at the female's urogenital pore.

Once inseminated, female guppies can store sperm in their ovaries and gonoducts, which can continue to fertilize ova up to eight months. Because of the sperm-storage mechanism, males are capable of posthumous reproduction, meaning the female mate can give birth to the male's offspring long after the male's death, which contributes significantly to the reproductive dynamics of the wild guppy populations.

The guppy has been successfully hybridised with various species of molly (Poecilia latipinna or P. velifera), e.g., male guppy and female molly. However, the hybrids are always male and appear to be infertile. The guppy has also been hybridised with the Endler's livebearer (Poecilia wingei) to produce fertile offspring, with the suggestion that, despite physical and behavioural differences, Endler's may represent a subspecies of Poecilia reticulata rather than a distinct species.

Due to the extensive selective breeding of guppies for desirable traits such as greater size and colour, some strains of the fish have become less hardy than their wild counterparts. Immense inbreeding of guppies has been found to affect body size, fertility and susceptibility to diseases.

Guppy standards

Large strains:
A - Veil tail
B - Triangle tail
C - Fan tail
D - Flag tail

Sword strains:
E - Double sword
F - Upper sword
G - Lower sword
H - Lyre tail

Short strains:
I - Spade tail
J - Spear tail
K - Round tail
L - Pin tail

Guppies prefer a hard-water aquarium with a temperature between 25.5 and 27.8 °C (78 and 82 °F) and salt levels equivalent to one tablespoon per 19 L (5 US gal). They can withstand levels of salinity up to 150% that of normal seawater, which has led to them being occasionally included in marine tropical community tanks, as well as in freshwater tropical tanks. Guppies are generally peaceful, though nipping behaviour is sometimes exhibited between male guppies or towards other top swimmers like members of the genus Xiphophorus (platies and swordtails), and occasionally other fish with prominent fins, such as angelfish. Guppies should not be kept as a single fish in an aquarium because both males and females show signs of shoaling, and are usually found in large groups in the wild. Its most famous characteristic is its propensity for breeding, and it can breed in both freshwater and marine aquaria.

Guppies prefer water temperatures around 22.2-26.1 °C (72-79 °F) for reproduction. Pregnant female guppies have enlarged and darkened gravid spots near their anal vents. Just before birth, the eyes of fry may be seen through the translucent skin in this area of the female's body. When birth occurs, individual offspring are dropped in sequence, typically over a period of one to six hours. The female guppy has drops of two to 200 fry at a time, typically ranging between 30 and 60.

Well-fed adults do not often eat their own young, although sometimes safe zones are required for the fry. Specially designed livebearer birthing tanks, which can be suspended inside the aquarium, are available from aquatic retailers. These also serve to shield the pregnant female from further attention from the males, which is important because the males sometimes attack the females while they are giving birth. It also provides a separate area for the newborn young as protection from being eaten by their mother. However, if a female is put in the breeder box too early, it may cause her to have a miscarriage. Well-planted tanks that offer barriers to adult guppies shelter the young quite well. Guppy grass, water sprite, water wisteria, duckweed, and java moss are all good choices. A continuous supply of live food, such as or brine shrimp, keep adult fish full and may spare the fry when they are born. Young fry take roughly three or four months to reach maturity. Feeding fry live foods, such as baby brine shrimp, microworms, infusoria and vinegar eels, is recommended. Alternatives include finely ground flake food, egg yolk, and liquid fish food, though the particulates in these may be too large for the youngest fry to eat.

Guppies are susceptible to various diseases, which may stem from bacterial, parasitic, or fungal infections. Maintaining a clean tank, a balanced diet, and regular monitoring can help in preventing these diseases.

Ichthyophthirius multifiliis (Ich)

Ichthyophthirius multifiliis, commonly known as ich, is a protozoan parasite that infects guppies and other freshwater fish. The infection is characterized by white cysts appearing on the skin, gills, and fins of the affected fish, giving a distinct white spot appearance which is often referred to as "white spot disease".

The life cycle of Ichthyophthirius multifiliis involves three stages: the trophont stage, the tomont stage, and the theront stage.

Fin rot is primarily caused by bacterial infections, although fungal infections can also be a culprit. The condition manifests through the progressive decay or fraying of the fins, often accompanied by discoloration, usually turning the edges of the fins white, black, or red. The primary causative agents of fin rot are gram-negative bacteria such as Pseudomonas fluorescens and Aeromonas hydrophila. Poor water quality, overcrowding, and stress are significant contributors to the onset and progression of the disease, as they create an environment conducive for bacterial growth and can compromise the fish's immune system.

Columnaris, also known as cotton mouth disease or cotton wool disease, is a common bacterial infection in guppies and other freshwater fish, caused by the bacterium Flavobacterium columnare. This bacterium thrives in warm, freshwater environments. Treatment for columnaris should commence promptly to prevent severe mortality. Common treatment measures include: Improving water quality, Antibacterial medications such as Kanamycin, Erythromycin, or Oxytetracycline, and in extreme cases, antibiotic injections.

Velvet, also known as gold dust disease, is a prevalent ailment caused by the dinoflagellate parasites of the genus . When these parasites attach to a fish's skin, gills, and eyes, they trigger a range of symptoms. Notable symptoms include a fine gold or rust-colored dust appearing on the fish's body, clamped fins, scratching against objects, rapid gill movement due to irritation, decreased feeding, lethargy, and, in advanced stages, respiratory distress.

Swim bladder disease is a common condition which impairs their ability to maintain buoyancy. This condition is associated with the swim bladder, a gas-filled organ that aids fish in remaining buoyant at varying water depths. The symptoms of swim bladder disease are quite distinctive and include difficulty in maintaining buoyancy which causes the fish to either float to the top or sink to the bottom, abnormal swimming patterns such as swimming on the side or upside down, and a bloated appearance or a visibly enlarged belly.

Several factors can contribute to the onset of swim bladder disease. Overfeeding is a common cause, leading to constipation which may press against the swim bladder. Bacterial or viral infections affecting the swim bladder can also trigger this condition. Physical injury or congenital deformities of the swim bladder are other potential causes.

Houde, Anne E (1997). Sex, Color, and Mate Choice in Guppies. Princeton, NJ: Princeton University Press. p. 227. ISBN 978-0-691-02789-0.

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The guppy (), also known as millionfish or the rainbow fish, is one of the world's most widely distributed tropical fish and one of the most popular freshwater aquarium fish species. It is a member of the family Poeciliidae and, like almost all American members of the family, is live-bearing.

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Most people will have seen a molly fish at one point or another. They are one of the most commonly kept fish amongst fish keeping enthusiasts.

They are perfect for people new to the hobby as they are easy to care for.

As an active and social group, you will see plenty of interesting behaviors and unique personalities begin to develop. They are a simple way to add some beautiful fish to your tank.

Molly fish come in lots of varieties with different colors and shapes. With so many to choose from there's one to suit everybody.

In this article we cover the most popular varieties as well as explaining their ideal setups, preferred diet and much more.

Molly fish, or just mollies, are freshwater fish from the genus Poecilia, in the Poeciliidae family. All the species in this genus are mollies except for the Endler's livebearer.

There are currently 40 species in this genus, so 39 of them are mollies.

These fish are native to the Americas, but their habitat can vary significantly.

An interesting fact about mollies is that, like guppies, they are livebearers. This means that they hold their eggs inside their body until they can give birth to live young straight into the water.

They are a very popular group of fish. Most species are hardy and easy to care for, making them great for beginners. They work well in peaceful community aquariums. If kept in a healthy environment, a group of mollies will thrive and can live up to 5 years.

It's rare that you will come across a fish store that doesn't sell mollies - they are one of the most popular freshwater fish.

Common varieties can be found for $2-$4 per fish, though rarer species cost more.

Typical Behavior

They are a peaceful bunch most of the time but can show signs of aggression when crowded or surrounded by aggressive tank mates. Therefore, it's important that their tank is big enough, and that they have suitable tank mates (more on this later).

Mollies are active and social so they enjoy schooling together. A shoal should be predominantly female since males are known to harass and stress females.

It's easy to spot personalities in active fish like these. Watching them for a while will quickly get you attached as you notice their individual differences.

Molly Fish Types and Appearances

There are lots of molly fish varieties - most are very similar to the common molly (Poecilia sphenops). The main differences are colors and patterns, but sizes and shapes can differ too.

The common molly has a flattened body. It's tall in the middle and narrows towards a point at the mouth. At the other end is the caudal fin which is a large fan that can be transparent or colorful.

The dorsal fin can be raised as a fan, resembling the caudal fin, or flatter against the body.

Sexing these fish isn't too hard and they are easy to mate. Females have an anal fin that spreads into a fan, whereas a male's is pointier. Females are larger too, potentially reaching 4.5 inches. Males grow to 3 inches.

Pregnant females will look even larger. Their bellies swell to be much bigger than other females.

Here's a summary of a few popular mollies for home aquariums:

Black Molly Fish

These fish are black all over. Apart from that, they're virtually the same as the common molly.

Sailfin Molly

This variety is bred in lots of different colors and patterns. It's most distinctive feature is the large dorsal fin which is taller and runs from behind the head to just before the caudal fin.

Lyretail Molly

Just like the sailfin molly, the lyretail stands out because of its fins, but this time it's the caudal fin. The top and bottom of the fin narrow into points which trail behind the rest of the fish.

Other popular mollies include the Dalmatian, Balloon, Red, White and Orange.

Habitat and Tank Conditions

In the wild, a molly's habitat can vary. They have adapted to lots of different water conditions, including a tolerance to brackish waters and high hydrogen sulfide levels.

They are mostly found in the shallow parts of rivers and streams across North and South America. Here the substrate would be sandy with rocks and debris sat on top.

Plants would be plentiful too, they mainly use these as shelter but they're important for reproduction as well. The rivers are in tropical climates so get a good supply of light for plant growth.

The waters would be warm and slow moving. pH tends towards being slightly alkaline.

Mollies bred in captivity for the aquarium trade are all used to similar environments, so you don't need to worry about each variety needing a different setup.

A layer of sandy substrate along the bottom of the tank is a good idea. Whilst they won't spend much time down at these levels, the fine-grains are good for keeping plants.

You are free to choose your favorite plants, but taller options like Anubias nana make good shelter for these mid-level swimmers. Use decorations like rocks to create caves and crevices. They're useful for all fish to get away from others that could be harassing them.

A tropical fish like this needs a heater in the tank to maintain temperatures of 72-78°F. Keep pH between 6.7 and 8.5, and hardness between 20-30 KH.

Some people recommend slightly brackish waters for your mollies. The benefits of this are not confirmed, and it limits the tank mates you can keep with them, so we would avoid this.

Standard aquarium lighting will be enough. You don't need any other special equipment (like a water/air pump) either. These fish are used to slow-moving water which the filter outlet will provide.

What Size Aquarium Do They Need?

A molly fish needs at least a 10 gallon aquarium. This size would be suitable for up to four depending on the species - larger mollies like the sailfins will need a 30 gallon tank.

Each additional molly will need around 3 gallons to live comfortably.

As peaceful fish they don't cause many problems, so they go great with other peaceful species in a community aquarium.

Some good choices include: Cherry Barbs, Corydoras Catfish, Danios, Dwarf Gourami, Harlequin Rasbora, Platies, Rosy Barbs, Tetras, Yo-yo Loaches, and Zebra Loaches.

There are lots more to choose from, most small peaceful community fish will be fine.

Fish to avoid are large or aggressive. Large fish will try to eat your mollies, aggressive ones may attack and stress them out to the point of death.

Cichlids are a group that contains numerous bad examples. For instance, Convict Cichlids have an aggressive reputation and don't play well with others. Some cichlids aren't a problem though, like Angelfish.

Most invertebrates will be happy living alongside your mollies, they'll mostly be ignored. Shrimp and snails are popular options, and there are plenty of species to choose from.

Keeping Molly Fish Together

You should keep them in groups of at least four or more, they naturally stick together. The group should be made of mostly females since males are known to harass them. Reproduction is usually the only cause of aggressive behavior.

What To Feed Them

As omnivores there are lots of different food types that you can feed them. In the wild they'd eat small invertebrates, but mainly plants and algae. There are many similar foods to give them in an aquarium.

Algae is a big part of their diet, they use their lips to scrape it from surfaces. Vegetation is important too, you can use small pieces of green vegetables from your kitchen. Lettuce, spinach, and zucchini are all good options to drop into your aquarium. You can even use them to make your own homemade fish foods.

Artificial foods like flakes and pellets are an easy option. Try to supplement these with other foods to provide an wide range of nutrients.

Live and frozen foods are excellent sources of protein. Bloodworms and brine shrimp will be happily accepted, but most other options work well too. Live foods are more interesting for the fish come feeding time too.

Feed them small amounts twice a day. This gives their digestive system chance to process the food. Give them as much as they can finish in two minutes.

Molly Fish Care Guide

Mollies are some of the most hardy and more adaptable fish out there.

Just like any other fish, the big thing is a clean tank. You need to know how to clean effectively. This includes monitoring the water conditions and checking that ammonia and nitrites are at 0ppm.

Your mollies may develop a condition called "molly disease" (or "livebearer disease", or "shimmies"). This isn't actually a disease because it's caused by poor water conditions.

Affected fish will swim around less, wiggling and shimmying in one spot. Check your water parameters and correct any issues, once conditions return to normal you should see improvements in the health of your mollies.

In addition to molly disease, they can get a range of diseases common in many freshwater fish, such as ich and velvet. Keep an eye on your fish to spot signs of disease.

Common signs include a loss of appetite, inactivity, spots, wounds and color changes.

Cleaning the tank and switching up their diet are a couple of easy ways to reduce the intensity of disease. If the problems persist, there are treatments that you can purchase from stores.

How To Breed Molly Fish

Mollies are livebearers, which means their eggs develop inside their body so that live fry can be released. They are one of the easiest fish groups to breed in captivity and will mate regularly.

Conditions in a breeding tank need to be perfect, the water (and tank in general) should be clean.

Raising the temperature slightly could help to initiate mating, but don't go higher than 78°F. Males perform a courting display for the females, when the female is ready to mate she will allow the male to fertilize her eggs. Sometimes the male tries to "sneak-copulate" where he approaches an unaware female from behind.

Females often choose to mate with the largest males.

After fertilization it will take 35-45 days before the young are released. Larger females could release up to 100 juveniles.

The young need to be separated from the adults or they will get eaten. One option is to put pregnant mollies in a breeders box before they give birth, the young are free to leave the box through small holes but the adults stay trapped.

You can feed them foods like broken flakes until they're big enough to eat the same foods as the adults. At this point they can be mixed back in with them.

FAQs on Breeding

Q: What does a pregnant Molly Fish look like?
A: A female's belly will swell to be much larger than usual. This is generally easy to spot, especially when comparing them to other mollies in the tank.

Q: What do Molly Fish babies look like and how do you care for them?
A: The fry look like small versions of adults, with large black eyes. Colors will vary depending on the species. Keep the fry separated from other fish (including their parents) until they are a similar size.

Are Molly Fish Suitable For Your Aquarium? (Summary)

There aren't many reasons not to get mollies, they are a great choice for community aquariums. You just need to consider do you have the right tank mates? You need to avoid large or aggressive fish.

Their health is also dependent on the conditions of the tank, which need to be within their preferred range. They can tolerate a wide range though, so they can go in lots of different tanks.

You won't have a problem with their diet either, they can eat lots of different food types.

Overall, they are very easy to care for if you have the right tank. In return you get a group of fish that are easy to breed, introduce lots of color, and display lots of activity.
What is your favorite kind of Molly Fish? Let us know in the comments below...

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Molly Fish 2020: Types, Care Guide, Mating And More... - Fishkeeping World

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Most people will have seen a molly fish at one point or another. They are one of the most commonly kept fish amongst fish keeping enthusiasts. They are perfect for people new to the hobby as they are easy to care for. As an active and social group, you will [Continue reading ...]