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If you've ever worn a bodysuit you're familiar with one of two things: when it comes time to use the bathroom ya gotta take your whole dang outfit off just to pee, or you've experienced the awkward/uncomfortable snap-buttons conveniently * sarcastically said* located under your crotch.

Well, one entrepreneur from Canada is calling for an end to both with her innovative bodysuits.

Caroline Bertrand is the brain behind the super stylish and incredibly convenient new line of bodysuits, Borderline Bodysuits. Without jeopardizing style or quality, Bertrand keeps functionality a high priority when designing the bodysuits, so you don't end up "in full frontal nudity," when trying to use a public restroom.

With a stretchy lace material that buttons in the back (not on your crotch) one can easily unbutton then slide the built-in lace thong (sewn at the sides of the bodysuit) under their bum and take care of business.

2009: Takes entire bodysuit off.
2019: Bottom half of suit can slide down and around, allowing you to get in and out and back to life!

Growing up as a gymnist, Bertrand was very familiar with the leotard + bathroom situation and as bodysuits became more trendy the past few years she decided to put an end to the madness and create a bodysuit that allowed for a convenient bathroom break.

The year is 2019. You're dressed in a stylish and chic bodysuit. You head in to use a public restroom and there's a sense of calm confidence residing over you. You flashback to a scarier time when peeing in a bodysuit resulted in full frontal nudity or strange acrobatics. Quickly waking up from your horrible daydream of a innovative, you thank Borderline Bodysuits for blessing you with a functional and trendy fashion statement that brings peace of mind and efficiency. You take care of business without the slightest struggle. Imagine that. (But you don't have to because they already exist.)

Follow @borderlinebodysuits on Instagram for updates and new styles!

@borderlinebodysuits showing off their styles with owner and innovator Caroline Bertrand.

With love,

Jessie

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The Future of Bodysuits - Borderline Bodysuits

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If you've ever worn a bodysuit you're familiar with one of two things: when it comes time to use the bathroom ya gotta take your whole dang outfit off just to pee, or you've experienced the awkward/uncomfortable snap-buttons conveniently * sarcastically said* located under your crotch.

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China, Turkey, India - main sourcing countries

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Generation Z consists of those born after 1997. The eldest members of this cohort are in their early 20s, graduating college and entering the workforce. This generation differs greatly from all previous cohorts in saving, spending and overall money management habits.

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Whether you're nailing your downward dog or pedalling to a pumping beat, we have all the kit you'll need to slay your 2020 fitness goals. Plus, you can do it sustainably too.

The perfect fusion between fashion and fitness, this collection is packed full of tech features that mean whatever your motivation to move, you'll be doing it in comfort. With key pieces and matching sets made from recycled polyester, this performance wear is kind to the planet too.

Sweatproof, breathable fabrics mean you'll look cool, calm, and co-ordinated even when you're not, while multiway stretch and seamless construction mean you can really step up your workout without worries about tears.

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Primark Alice Liveing Fitness Collection | Primark UK

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Whether you're nailing your downward dog or pedalling to a pumping beat, we have all the kit you'll need to slay your 2020 fitness goals. Plus, you can do it sustainably too. The perfect fusion between fashion and fitness, this collection is packed full of tech features that mean whatever your motivation to move, you'll be doing it in comfort.

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For the last few years, tennis fashion has been one of the biggest trends of the summer. Thanks to fans of Wimbledon and US Open, as well as people who've never held a tennis racket in their life, tennis skirts, vintage polos, and the like have risen in popularity off the court. And, while the pandemic has put on a hold on many tennis tournaments this season, the trend has once again taken over fashion: According to a Lyst report, searches for tennis-inspired outfits, tennis court shoes, and visors have all gone up in June. Now, to get you in the game, on and off the court, tennis pro Venus Williams' clothing line EleVen is launching a new collection of tennis wear.

"I've always viewed tennis apparel as being functional yet chic. The pieces are so versatile and can take you from a workout to running errands to hanging out at home while being comfortable and still looking great," Williams tells Refinery29 about why she thinks tennis is trending in fashion. "Right now, I think people are leaning more towards effortless closet staples that are not only easy to wear all day long, but also elevate their look - and I love that a cute tennis skirt can do that!"

The just-released Bold collection - made up of tennis skirts, athletic tops, and an exercise dress in can't-miss shades of orange and blue - was inspired by "strong, bold, and fabulous women," according to Williams: "I wanted the collection to embody each woman's essence through bright and colourful designs that make her feel like an 11 out of 10 when wearing these pieces, so she feels confident and empowered to push her limits to be better than her best self."

Having trained in Florida for the last few months, the tennis player says that "being able to stay cool and comfortable all day is what I need to help me perform my best." With that in mind, the collection was made using EleVen Pro-Dri, a technology that makes clothing breathable and quick-drying, and EleVen Ozone, which protects against the sun's rays. "Being a Florida girl, sun protection and feeling cool and comfortable in the heat is always top of mind," she says. "I'm outside most of the day, whether I'm training, doing one of my #CoachVenus Instagram Live workouts or walking my dog Harry, so I have to make sure whatever I'm wearing is supporting and keeping up with me."

In fact, Williams tests every single EleVen piece before it goes to market. "I pour my heart, soul, time, and energy into each collection I design. I put each piece to the test to make sure all the boxes are checked and the fit is perfect - it's extremely important to me that we're delivering nothing but the best," she says. "As an athlete, I design each collection with movement top of mind to ensure the pieces not only feel comfortable and fit well but leave you ready to take on your day."

Williams says that the collection is versatile and comfortable enough to be worn all day. "I love seeing tennis gear go beyond the courts," Williams says of the tennis trend in fashion. "It's always fun for me to see different ways people wear our designs! The pieces are designed to be mixed and matched, so one piece can result in multiple outfits and be perfect for wherever your day takes you - workouts, errands, even happy hours!"

While Williams says it's hard to pick a favourite from the new launch, she says she has been living in the Flutter Skirt. "It is such a fun, colourful print for the summer that I think adds a little flirty flair to any look," Williams says. With that, she hints that more bold colours and eye-catching prints are on the way for EleVen in the future, though she makes clear that the brand will continue to design with "bold, confident, and ready to take on the world" women in mind with every new drop.

"EleVen is more than just activewear - the brand was built on the idea of being the best version of yourself and pushing the status quo. I've always made it my mission to instil confidence in my community, and I personally always feel my best when I'm in a killer outfit. It sets the tone for whatever I'm doing and even changes the way I present myself," Williams says. "I am always aiming to enhance and highlight the incredible qualities of the women who wear my clothes. Confidence and belief in yourself are the key to success!"

Refinery29's selection is purely editorial and independently chosen - we only feature items we love! As part of our business model we do work with affiliates; if you directly purchase something from a link on this article, we may earn a small amount of commission. Transparency is important to us at Refinery29, if you have any questions please reach out to us.

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Tennis Fashion Is Trending - & Venus Williams Has A Launch To Get You In The Game

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For the last few years, tennis fashion has been one of the biggest trends of the summer. Thanks to fans of Wimbledon and US Open, as well as people who've never held a tennis racket in their life, tennis skirts, vintage polos, and the like have risen in popularity off the court.

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How COVID-19 created a new kind of consumer in just 90 days

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After two decades of steady growth, the trajectory of digital consumerism went into hyperdrive when the pandemic changed everything-giving us 'Generation N.'

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They are poised to be the nation's biggest spenders, as they move into their prime earning and spending years, so millennials dominate conversations around product strategy, marketing, and the economy at large. This generation is different, and so brands must see and interact with them as a unique consumer in order to draw their attention and business. Let's take a look at Millennial spending habits and why they buy.

Who are they?

Millennials defined:

They were roughly born between 1982 and 1996, so they're around 22 - 36 years old.

There are 83.1 million millennials in the United States, making them the largest generation in the country's history.

The majority of these young people have less than $1,000 in their savings accounts, and a significant number have no savings at all. They have less credit card debt and car purchases than previous generations, most likely because lenders have tightened the requirements for granting credit and loans. More than 65% of millennials don't have a credit card at all.

How do they make purchase decisions?

Millennials consider social responsibility and environmental friendliness when considering their purchases, so brands face Millennials' significant expectations in terms of shopping and investment dollars. They typically choose to either follow their own instincts or go along with their peers but have become rather wary of financial advice given by parents and professionals in the field. They also prefer personal connections with those who manage their money, who reflect their highly held values of trust, authenticity, and choice.

When shopping, Millennials focus on discounts. They value price over recommendations, the brand's reputation, and even product quality. They follow brands online just for discount opportunities. 66% of millennials would switch brands if offered at least a 30% discount, and only a third see a brand to consider trends or product updates.

Ironically, 60% of millennials state loyalty to brands they currently purchase from if treated well through customer-centric experience. To ensure allegiance, companies include loyalty programs with custom discounts as well as active courtship.

Other values that brands should center upon are authenticity, local sourcing, ethical production, a great shopping experience, and giving back to society. 75% of Millennials consider it fairly or very important that brands give back to society instead of just making a profit.

Where do they spend?

Millennials spend more on comforts and conveniences:

60% of millennials spend more than $4 on a single coffee

70% of millennials will spend a little extra to eat at the hip restaurants in town

69% of millennials buy clothes for reasons beyond basic necessity

Over 50% of millennials spend money on taxis and Ubers while only 29% of Gen X and 15% of Boomers do the same

Millennials spend more per year on:

Groceries

Gas

Restaurants

Their cellphone as nearly all own a smartphone and comprise the highest usage as well

Hobbies, electronics, and clothing

At the same time, millennials spend less than older generations on:

Television-as streaming services have come online, cable is becoming a service of the past

Travel, because they're unable to afford regular vacations and struggle to save for them

Pharmacies

Furniture/building materials

Conclusion

With this being the new financial powerhouse generation, it's important to learn what motivates the purchases and investing of Millennials and to change up marketing to meet their expectations.

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Author Post: Millennial Spending Habits and Why They Buy

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They are poised to be the nation's biggest spenders, as they move into their prime earning and spending years, so millennials dominate conversations around product strategy, marketing, and the economy at large. This generation is different, and so brands must see and interact with them as a unique consumer in order to draw their attention and business.

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Copy of HE Merch calculations exercise sheet

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From gym to dance floor, bodysuits work as the key layer for you to get ready for all occasions throughout the day. The evolution of bodysuit is undoubtedly aggressive. Bodysuits nowadays can no longer be defined as athleisure or lingerie; there are simply too many types of bodysuits with various functionality. Bodysuit is no longer a trend, but an essential staple to stay in the modern world. Think denim and a white t-shirt, they are in everyone's wardrobe. There is always a bodysuit for your needs and wants. The history of bodysuit is a modern interpretation of American classics, a progression of the dancer's leotard since the second half of the 19th century.

The History of Bodysuit

Leotard was first worn by a French gymnast, Jules Leotard, whose name inspired the classic dance suit as "leotard". The earlier versions of leotards were made of wool or silk, loosely fitted with a low neckline and gussets between the legs.

Leotards became popular among dancers in early 20th century when they realised the cutting of leotard can elevate their body alignment and dance movements on stages. Back then, leotard was never considered a styling item, until American fashion designer, Claire McCardell improved the design of leotard in the 1940s and made leotards more accessible. Thanks to Catwoman, who was the key character in the Batman sequel and worn a front-zipper bodysuit, the idea of a one-piece garment no longer seem far-fetched.

Bodysuit- A Symbol of Women Liberation

With French designer, Andre Courreges, bodysuits first emerged in the fashion world around the mid-'60s.

The popularity of bodysuit was further driven by the booming textile production in the 1970s- fabrics made of nylon and spandex blend has given bodysuits a more elastic and soft texture for a comfortable wearing experience. In the 1980s, designer Azzedine Alaia and Donna Karan helped make the bodysuit a fashion item for both men and women since then.

It is Time for Bodysuit to Rise Again

Stepping into the 21st century, bodysuits started to be recognised as an undergarment or lingerie, with lace bodysuits and shaping bodywear gaining popularity in the west, the bottom design of bodysuit also varies, from thong back to cheeky cut, for better compatibility for styling. As a rare bodysuit-focused clothing brand in Asia, our products are constructed for comfort and longevity with your body and happiness in mind. Our designs explore the beauty of women curves with usage of textiles that are timeless and practical. We hope that Annibody will be your style destination for high quality bodysuits that accompany you for a lifetime.

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Bodysuit is no longer a trend, but an essential staple to stay in the modern world. Think denim and a white t-shirt, they are in everyone's wardrobe. There is always a bodysuit for your needs and wants. The history of bodysuit is a modern interpretation of American classics, a progression of the dancer's leotard since the second half of the 19th century.

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Brexit impact on fashion industry

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The British Fashion Council (BFC) continues to emphasise that a no deal Brexit is a scenario that should be avoided. The reality that a no deal could still happen, continues to have a negative impact on our industry. Based on export figures from 2018 it is estimated that switching to World Trade Organisation (WTO) rules would cost the fashion industry between £850 and £900million* (source: UK Fashion & Textile Association).
The UK leads the world in creativity, innovation and business and we need to retain this reputation. As an industry worth £32billion to the UK GDP and employing more than 890,000 people - almost as many as the financial sector, we urge the Government to:

-seek a deal with the EU that would guarantee the healthy and steady growth
of the fashion industry

-give access to funding that would help create stimulus that will ensure British designer businesses continue to remain competitive internationally through trading agreements, access to finance, free movement of talent and
support for promotion

-advise on all the different scenarios and translate them into what they mean to the fashion industry and the best way to navigate global trade challenges

Ahead of London Fashion Week September 2019, the BFC held a seminar for designers specifically around preparing for a no deal Brexit, helping them identify the risks and challenges to their business and help them prepare for WTO rules in the event of no deal being reached by 31st October 2019.

Background:

Following the 2016 EU referendum, the creative industries came together to set out the joint challenges of the industries through the Creative Industries Council and the Creative Industries Federation. The following areas were identified and continue to be a focus for fashion:
Movement of People
Tariff Free Access to the EU
Frictionless Borders
Intellectual Property rules & regulations
Funding post European Regional Development Fund

More precisely, the BFC's main concerns around the impact of Brexit on designer businesses are centred around trade and talent.
Trade
Fashion SMEs are international from day one, with first sales often taking place outside of the UK. Driven by the need to achieve high artistry and creative pieces, designers adopt a global approach in all elements of their business; from sourcing the perfect fabric, through to finding the best pattern cutter in the world to work with that fabric.
Fashion is component goods which traverse borders multiple times before becoming a finished product, and in order to sell, samples are taken during selling season to a variety of international markets and shows. This adds a level of complexity not dissimilar to other component goods industries such as the automotive industry. Below are the main trade concerns the BFC would like to highlight, in case of WTO rules and in a no deal scenario:

*Businesses are having to assess the impacts of WTO tariffs. It is unclear who will take on the additional costs - the businesses or the end consumers

*Understanding of time frames. It is impossible to give 24 hours' notice to HM Revenue & Customs around goods being shipped. To compete internationally, goods need to be shipped immediately

*Understanding around definitions of samples. What will happen to travelling samples and what paperwork will be needed. The BFC already has anecdotal notes of businesses being stopped and asked for paperwork, although not currently required. Tariffs and VAT will apply to samples

*The impact to logistics systems. Despite freight companies preparing, they can't plan properly until they have clarity around new import and export rules. The impact on temporary warehousing. The impact of having to deal directly with brokers at ports, the paperwork associated with this and any delays this may incur.

*VAT issues: businesses will have to do claims across 27 member states rather than to the EU as a whole
Talent
The BFC has been working with the Home Office to tackle existing known immigration issues:

*In 2018, with the Arts Council, it launched the Tier 1 Exceptional Talent visas which will see the BFC become an Independent Assessor for the visa applications in the fashion industry. This will allow to secure a new route for exceptionally talented designers and fashion sector individuals to work in the UK

*In January 2019 new immigration rules laid in parliament covered Tier 5 visas used by models to enter the country, through a new Models Code of Practice

However, these changes and the proposed changes to the immigration system through the government's white paper, would not cover skilled, lower paid workers from machinists, to language experts, leaving concerns about skills gaps for the industry. Of particular concern is the recommendation that the Tier 2 visa has a £30,000 minimum threshold on salary, with skilled roles in fashion manufacturing typically earning less than this. Similarly, the shortage occupation list does not cover any roles required by the high-end fashion industry. The BFC asks that the salary threshold and shortage occupation list are reviewed as a matter of urgency.

The BFC considers essential for the UK to retain its leading position in attracting global talent. It is very important that communications to international students and talent is clear and highlights the fact that the fashion industry still wants them to study here, start businesses here and work here.

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The British Fashion Council (BFC) continues to emphasise that a no deal Brexit is a scenario that should be avoided. The reality that a no deal could still happen, continues to have a negative impact on our industry.

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What is Neoprene fabric?

Originally produced by the American DuPont Corporation, Neoprene is a brand name of polychloroprene, which is used as a substitute for rubber. Among other things, Neoprene is entirely waterproof, which makes it an ideal material for wetsuits and other gear designed to insulate against wet and cold environments.

The history of Neoprene

Like many history-altering inventions, chloroprene rubber was born out of necessity. By the first few decades of the 20th century, a global rubber shortage became a primary concern of industrial giants in the Western nations, and American companies like DuPont began watching leading universities like hawks in the hopes that they'd find the answer.

In 1930, a professor of chemistry at the University of Notre Dame named Fr Julius Arthur Nieuwland gave a lecture that a leading DuPont executive happened to attend. The lecture was on the subject of divinyl acetylene, a plastic material that Nieuwland had developed himself. DuPont recruited Nieuwland to develop a mass-producible compound based on divinyl acetylene, and together with top scientists in the field of plastics, Nieuwland was successful in 1930. Neoprene burst onto the market in 1930, and the rest is history.

As a viable alternative to rubber, Neoprene played a critical role in the Allied efforts in World War II. Everything from Jeep tires to wetsuits were suddenly issued in Neoprene instead of real rubber, and without DuPont's miracle invention, it's possible the war would have gone very differently.

Neoprene today

Since then, Neoprene and generic forms of polychloroprene have found their way into many different niches of consumer and industrial life. This versatile, petrochemical-based material has the following unique benefits:

1. Impermeability

Neoprene forms a solid barrier between the wearer and the elements. While this attribute completely eliminates breathability, it also provides insulation from environmental conditions that would otherwise be uncomfortable or harmful.

2. Elasticity

Despite providing a perfect barrier against moisture, Neoprene fabric is also quite stretchy. It's a good thing, too-otherwise, divers and surfers wouldn't be able to get into their suits!

3. Heat retention

While Neoprene and all other petrochemical-based fibers melt at the slightest touch of heat, this particular synthetic fabric provides excellent insulation against cold. Thanks to polychloroprene, surfers are able to hang 10 in climates that would otherwise be far too forbidding.

4. Formability

While most fabrics are woven, Neoprene is formed. Therefore, it can be pre-made into practically any shape and size, which saves work for fashion designers.

The latest on Neoprene

Neoprene remains the trademark of the DuPont Corporation, and this American industrial icon remains highly active on the world stage. Even though the majority of DuPont's manufacturing has moved to China and other cheap-labor, authoritative East Asian nations, this company's Los Angeles plant remains the world's highest-volume polychloroprene production site.

Chloroprene rubber is made all over the world by hundreds of different companies. Despite the fact that all polychloroprene should be molecularly identical, variations in manufacturing processes play a role in the end result. While there are no clear data to support this supposition, it's likely that genuine Neoprene made by DuPont will offer higher-quality results than knockoff chloroprene rubber. Then again, you might be surprised.

How is Neoprene fabric made?

Neoprene is a petrochemical substance, which means that it is made from petroleum in a factory. Polychloroprene is made with a process called free radical emulsion polymerization, which turns natural chloroprene into synthetic polychloroprene. These two substances are molecularly very similar, but they have very different attributes.

Polychloroprene is usually delivered to textile factories in liquid form. Once it arrives, it is combined with additives to increase elasticity or highlight other traits. Next, it is placed in a mixer and baked in an industrial oven. The hardened chloroprene rubber is called a "loaf," and this loaf can then be sliced into chunks of various widths.

This slicing process is performed by a large industrial machine. There are a variety of widths of Neoprene material available, and the thicker the polychloroprene, the more insulative and waterproof it is. The average thickness for Neoprene is 3-5 millimeters.

The sliced Neoprene is loaded onto pallets and shipped to apparel manufacturers. Upon arrival, patterns are traced on the polychloroprene "slices," and entire wetsuit faces or other apparel items, accessories, or industrial products are then cut from a single slice.

Lastly, the cut slices are sewn together to make the final products. Waterproofing or fireproofing spray may be applied, and then the finished item is packaged and shipped to the retailer.

How is Neoprene fabric used?

This unique type of fabric is used in various sectors:

1. Apparel applications

While Neoprene use in apparel is sparing, it isn't uncommon to see this substance used in summertime womens garments and other apparel geared toward younger women.

2. Accessory applications

Neoprene is commonly used as a material for electronics cases. While this plastic does not absorb shocks especially well, it provides a minimal buffer that protects electronics from scratches and minor drops.

3. Sporting applications

Scuba suits and wetsuits are common applications of chloroprene rubber. Since this substance is waterproof and insulative, it keeps divers warm and dry even in fully submerged conditions.

4. Military applications

From gaskets to wetsuits, militaries and paramilitary organizations around the world come up with endless uses for Neoprene-it helps that DuPont has always been one of the U.S. government's biggest contractors.

5. Industrial applications

Neoprene is commonly used to make industrial machines that require gaskets or other Neoprene products.

Where is Neoprene fabric produced?

Even though China is the largest producer of synthetic fibers in general, the USA remains the largest producer of polychloroprene. DuPont's factory in the Los Angeles area continues to produce more chloroprene rubber than any other facility on the planet, and there are no signs that this trend will reverse any time soon.

How much does Neoprene fabric cost?

Among the petrochemical-derived fabrics, Neoprene is one of the most costly. This textile is relatively difficult to produce, and its beneficial attributes drive its price upward even further. Neoprene costs the least in raw "loaf" form, and it becomes more expensive the further along in the production process it progresses.

If you want to save on Neoprene, it's likely that non-branded polychloroprene made in China might cost less than genuine DuPont Neoprene. The further you stray from the source, however, the more likely it is you'll come across manufacturing defects and mishaps that will make you wish you'd stuck with the genuine article.

What different types of Neoprene fabric are there?

At present, there are two main varieties of Neoprene fabric on the market:

Synthetic polychloroprene

Almost all types of Neoprene on the market are made with petrochemicals, and they are, therefore, synthetic.

"Organic" polychloroprene

Ultimately, there's no way to make Neoprene a fully natural substance. A handful of intrepid textile entrepreneurs, however, have taken it upon themselves to prove that usable quantities of chloroprene rubber can be produced not with petrochemicals but with natural limestone instead.

Limestone-based polychloroprene has only been on the market for a few years, but it's already a smash hit among divers who love the smooth feel of its closed-cell structure. Unfortunately, limestone-based polychloroprene doesn't appear to be any more biodegradable than its petrochemical-derived cousin. Since the Earth is constantly renewing its limestone reserves, however, this form of chloroprene rubber is technically more sustainable.

How does Neoprene fabric impact the environment?

Like all petrochemical-derived fabrics, Neoprene has a significantly negative impact on the environment. If it weren't for this textile's impressive beneficial attributes, it's likely that there would be more of an outcry about its contribution to global pollution.

At the same time, polychloroprene only makes up a tiny fraction of each year's total plastics production, and efforts are underway to make chloroprene rubber production cleaner and more sustainable. Neoprene clearly has a place in the worlds of fashion and industry, and it's only a matter of time until we find out how to make this useful fabric friendlier toward the environment.

Neoprene fabric certifications available

Since it is a synthetic fabric, polychloroprene is not eligible for organic, non-GMO, or other forms of certifications sometimes awarded to natural fibers. Polychloroprene is also not recycled, so it is not eligible for certification from the Global Recycle Standard (GRS) or similar organizations.

Neoprene is, however, available for ISO certification, which provides consumers with some degree of peace of mind. ISO is an organization that verifies the purity of various synthetic substances, and it offers a wide array of certifications based on the intended use of the product.

For instance, polychloroprene is eligible for ISO 9001 certification if it can be demonstrated to have a certain level of purity. ISO 13485 certification is also available for polychloroprene used in medical equipment.

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Originally produced by the American DuPont Corporation, Neoprene is a brand name of polychloroprene, which is used as a substitute for rubber. Among other things, Neoprene is entirely waterproof, which makes it an ideal material for wetsuits and other gear designed to insulate against wet and cold environments.

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Environmental emissions are questioning the daily choices of every athlete. Sportswear is part of fast-paced fashion due to the heavy wear of the activewear garments and constantly changing trends, creating a huge environmental burden. Many brands are little by little taking the transition into sustainable production, and some has already declared themselves completely sustainable. From a customer's point of view, it is still difficult to identify an ethical brand, as many companies use sustainability as their advertising slogan. So how do you identify a high-quality sportswear brand on this jungle of empty promises and advertising? We wrote you a short introduction to the best sustainable materials for sportswear to help you to choose the most sustainable option.

Traditional Natural Materials
Cotton is a natural material we use in everyday life. As a sportswear textile, cotton is not very technical, but works as a soft and comfortable material, for example, in many yoga garments or as part of technical textiles. The functional properties and durability of the cotton garment can be increased by adding some spandex to the textile. Traditional cotton production requires enormous amounts of pesticides that have a huge environmental impact and pose a health risk to those who work around it. Cotton can be breed also more ethically without a massive amount of chemicals, but the process is much slower and therefore not as effective from the business perspectives. The manufacturing process also requires a tremendous amount of water, but many ethical brands have found ways to optimize their manufacturing process to reduce water usage. So always choose organic cotton to prevent extra environmental burden.

Bamboo and hemp are traditional substitutes for cotton and are slightly more ethical than cotton. Bamboo is fast-growing fibre without insecticides and pesticides and does not require replanting. Bamboo also transforms easily into yarn without great water usage and contains natural moisture-wicking properties. Bamboo is often found in soft garments. However, the development of bamboo into soft yarn is a long process in which bamboo often passes through a heavy chemical process. One example of chemically processed bamboo is a material called Bamboo Rayon. The chemical process is commonly used to turn bamboo textile into soft silk-like material. To preserve the natural characteristics of bamboo, some producers have started to use the lyocell technology (brand name TENCEL®) to transform bamboo into a soft textile. The lyocell is known of manufacturing the eucalyptus yarn and has lately been developed to preserve bamboo characteristics also in the bamboo textile production. Bamboo is known as the soft and comfortable material and has often been used in underwear material. For its soft qualities, bamboo can be used in yoga wear, after workout garments, in base layer sets and trekking clothing. Always choose naturally produced bamboo or Lyocell. Read more about bamboo here.

Hemp has been used in the textile industry for thousands of years. It is the most sustainable and durable option also for naturally sourced activewear textiles. Hemp provides natural UV-protection, but also holds its shape, stretching less than any other natural fibre. This prevents hemp fabric used in upholstery, demountable panels, acoustic panelling or as wallcovering from stretching out or becoming distorted with use. Growing hemp is also more sustainable than cotton and bamboo. It grows more densely, needs no pesticides or herbicides and returns almost 70% of the nutrients it takes back to the soil. The manufacturing process of hemp textile can be done organically through a mechanical process that requires no chemicals. Despite that, some companies produce hemp fabric chemically, in a process that is much more harmful to the environment, but faster and cheaper to create. So again, when choosing your hemp garment use only sustainable brands.

Recycled Materials
What comes to the heavy wear of activewear, the most used materials are often made of synthetic fibres due to their long-lasting properties. There are many disadvantages of synthetic fibres. Synthetic fibres are made from synthesized polymers or small molecules, the compounds that are used to make these fibres come from raw materials such as petroleum-based chemicals or petrochemicals. In addition to the environmental burden of petroleum-based chemical production, the constantly changing trends and lack of recycling makes synthetic materials as one of the worst environmental pollutants. Clothing brands are little by little acknowledging the issue with petroleum-based materials creating different alternatives for synthetic materials. One of these alternatives is using recycled materials.

Recycled polyester has boomed in the last decade due to the new innovations. Repreve is a high-quality material made out of recycled water bottles. Some brands are starting to use Repreve in a few of their products, and many smaller brands have established their whole production only around recycled polyester. A generic version of Repreve, commonly referred to as either PET™ or RPET™, is a material that offers a similar fabric content without the brand name.

Another option is Vita™, made by Carvico. This blended fabric is partially made from recycled fishing nets. It's mostly suitable for water sports and as an alternative for lycra used to add elasticity to the fabric.

Other Sustainable Options
The sustainable textile industry is developing with a fast-pace, today we have fabrics made of recycled pineapple peels up to different variations of wood-based materials. There are several brilliant innovations used for transforming waste into durable activewear. One of these is Cupro. It is a regenerated cellulose fibre derived from cotton linter. Cotton linter is the short downy fibre that enfolds the cotton seeds. The unused fibres are not used in cotton production and are usually thrown away, but this fantastic resource can be transformed into Cupro.

Cupro is made in Japan to strict Japanese standards with absolutely no factory pollution. The production process is not releasing anything into the environment using only clean water systems. As a material Cupro is smooth, hypoallergenic, anti-static fabric with great resilience, especially in higher temperatures and can be machine washed and dried with no harm to the structure. The breathable fibre with micropores that quickly absorb moisture and release it to the outside making it a fantastic fabric to regulate body temperature by effectively reducing clinging and transporting moisture away from the skin. This outstanding material feels like a second skin making it a perfect fabric for activewear with amazing technical properties.

Another great alternative is Tencel™, the sustainably sourced natural wood-based fibre. This durable and easy to care material is also soft, breathable, lightweight and gentle against the body. Tencel™ has amazing properties with the balance of softness and great supporting compression. Made from the natural cellulose found in eucalyptus wood pulp. The fibre is economical in its use of energy and natural resources and is fully biodegradable.

Finally, another new fibre, called Micromodal®, is extracted from Beechwood which is sustainably grown in Europe. Beech trees are ecological as they grow by rejuvenation. Meaning that the trees propagate themselves and no artificial irrigation or planting is required. The Micromodal® fibres are produced using Swiss Edelweiss® fibre technology. It is a "symbiotic" production process where the raw material is generated at the same site as the modal fibre itself, in a meticulous closed-loop system. The process conserves energy and is entirely non-toxic process creating a fully bio-degradable thread. Micromodal® is the finest of all the Modal® family, making the most lightweight and comfortable garments. It is super soft and has the breathability of Cotton. Therefore, it often requires synthetic materials to its side to provide more technical workout garments.

Wool Fibers
In some sports, wool garments are also a great addition. Usually, we see wool garments in trecking clothes, winter sports garments and after workout outfits. However, nowadays many brands are using wool also as part of activewear collection, in yoga wear, running clothes or even in a gym workout - this due to the brilliant features of wool. It is breathable, keeps you dry, makes you warm and odour resistant. The natural grease of the wool makes the fibres antibacterial and even dirt repellent. Doesn't it sound amazing? But how about the durability? In more technical wool fibres. Merino, known as soft fibre, has all the features of the wool, but it is also extremely fine fibre, enabling it to bend far more than traditional, more coarse wool fibres. Making Merino fabric naturally elastic, breathable, both warm and even cool due to its moisture-wicking abilities, static resistant, odour resistant, stain-resistant and machine washable. Even finer wool than Merino wool and traditional sheep wool is Cashmere. The stronger, lighter, softer, and approximately three times more insulating than sheep wool, this yarn is the met in some luxury garments, and therefore often a bit more expensive. When looking for woolly sportswear, it is tremendously important to choose sustainable brands to ensure the well-being of the animals.

Naturally, it's more expensive for vendors to produce garments in an environmentally friendly way, as well as pay their workers a fair wage. Many brands are making this possible by optimizing company structures and processes to enable an environmentally friendly way. As a customer it is good to question the sustainability of the brand across the production chain, taking into account the origin of materials and the production process, employee well-being and transportation, and storage. In addition to choosing sustainable activewear, buy only garments you really need and recycle the finished garment correctly to ensure your sustainable habits.

We at Garmendo are doing our best to help you to choose only carefully created, durable and fully sustainable activewear. Please let us know if you have any wishes regarding our selection! View our selection here.

Written by Minna Eerikäinen

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The Best Materials For Sustainable Sportswear

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Environmental emissions are questioning the daily choices of every athlete. Sportswear is part of fast-paced fashion due to the heavy wear of the activewear garments and constantly changing trends, creating a huge environmental burden. Many brands are little by little taking the transition into sustainable production,

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The group started off by going through the requirements of the brief. We chose one fabric each and then started to independetly research fabrics and their properties. I went down to the library to research the future of sportswear.
I believe that the project went really well. The team got along really well and we all had a clear vision on the tasks that needed to be done. We worked independently and communicated with each other through a whatsapp group chat.

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LOVE IT OR HATE it, athleisure is a definitive early 21st century fashion trend. But while the concept has been hailed as revolutionary, wearing comfortable clothes inspired by exercise has been a tenet of American fashion since at least the 1940s, when designers such as Mildred Orrick and Claire McCardell incorporated dance elements into their pieces. One item they zeroed in on was the one-piece stretchy leotard-now known as the bodysuit by the many fans, including Beyoncé and Serena Williams, who've bought one in the past few years. As interpreted by labels from Bottega Veneta to Reformation, this clingy bit of clothing...

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Still Risqué, the Formfitting Bodysuit Rises Again

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LOVE IT OR HATE it, athleisure is a definitive early 21st century fashion trend. But while the concept has been hailed as revolutionary, wearing comfortable clothes inspired by exercise has been a tenet of American fashion since at least the 1940s, when designers such as Mildred Orrick and Claire McCardell incorporated dance elements into their pieces.

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The Fiber & Materials platform supports the development and implementation of an environmentally and socially preferred fiber and materials strategy. We provide:

★ Extensive data, tools and market analytics on key preferred fibers and materials including organic cotton and other more sustainable cotton options, recycled polyester, preferred man made cellulosics, bio-synthetics and responsibly produced animal fibers and materials.

★ Convening spaces and working groups to address barriers to growth and accelerate uptake of preferred fiber and materials.

★ Visibility and market linkages to fiber producers and processors in order to share information on the availability and innovation of more sustainable materials.

★ Market Intelligence
We produce market reports annually. Our extensive database and supply chain connections allow us to produce technical white papers, through to infographics - bringing data alive and making it more accessible.

★ Sector Benchmarking
Our annual benchmarking program encourages companies to continuously improve their performance and uptake of preferred fiber and materials.

★ Material Snapshots and Summaries
We have created a library of material snapshots and summaries. The summaries provide insight into a range of fibers and materials. While the snapshots give a more technical, in-depth, description of process and impact.

★ Consumer Engagement
Our suite of microsites inform, inspire and equip both retailer and consumer with the most credible, up-to-date information.

★ Round Tables
Bring together members of the supply chain to address barriers, share best practice, create new ways of doing business and grow the market.

★ Supplier Visibility
We work closely with farmers and other raw materials providers to raise visibility, promote best practice, and share innovation at the start of the chain.

★ Value Creation Services
We work collectively with all stakeholders and we also offer tailored products and services ranging from strategic advice, training and education, research/analytics, and infographics.

CORE TEAM
Liesl Truscott, European & Materials Strategy Director (UK) - Liesl@TextileExchange.org
★ Amish Gosai , India Program Manager (India) - Amish@TextileExchange.org
Evonne Tan, Data & Creative Specialist (Malaysia) Evonne@TextileExchange.org
★ Jana Busch, Materials Program Assistant (Germany) - Jana@TextileExchange.org
★ Lisa Emberson, Materials Platform Coordinator (UK) - Lisa@TextileExchange.org
★ Nicole Lambert, Technical Analyst (France) - Nicole@TextileExchange.org
★ Simone Seisl , TE Ambassador for Europe (Germany) - Simone@TextileExchange.org

REGIONAL AMBASSADORS
Allen You, TE Ambassador for China (China) | Atila Ertem , TE Ambassador, Turkey, Egypt & Central Asia (Turkey) | Lazare Yombi , TE Ambassador for Africa (Benin) | Leonard Mtama ,TE Ambassador for Africa (Tanzania) | Silvère Tovignan, TE Ambassador for Africa (Benin) | Silvio Moraes, TE Ambassador for Latin America (Brazil)

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The Fiber & Materials platform supports the development and implementation of an environmentally and socially preferred fiber and materials strategy. We provide: ★ Extensive data, tools and market analytics on key preferred fibers and materials including organic cotton and other more sustainable cotton options, recycled polyester, preferred man made cellulosics, bio-synthetics and responsibly produced animal fibers and materials.

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4 ways Covid-19 will change the fashion industry

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Technological advancements like augmented reality, virtual reality, 3D visualisation and 3D printing are increasingly applied in a creative way in the fashion industry. And they should be as consumers prefer trying on garments before buying them - online or offline. This is made easier by apps that have features enabling virtual try-ons, 3D animations and graphics that create virtual fitting rooms; the possibility for experimentation is limited only by the imagination. In order to reach out to tech-savvy consumers, brands are tapping into the online shopping trend with newer, social media friendly, easy-to-use apps on smartphones. FashionUnited has put together ten recent augmented reality features that could potentially revolutionise shopping habits in the near future.

Stay tuned for further updates on new technological innovations for online and offline shopping in the fashion world.
Photo: Asos Virtual Catwalk / Asos

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10 exciting augmented reality features for fashion shoppers

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Technological advancements like augmented reality, virtual reality, 3D visualisation and 3D printing are increasingly applied in a creative way in the fashion industry. And they should be as consumers prefer trying on garments before buying them - online or offline.

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The Next Black - A film about the Future of Clothing

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By Robert Cuffe and Nicholas Barrett

About a quarter of people of working-age - around 10 million people - don't currently have jobs.

In the Budget, Chancellor Jeremy Hunt set out a series of measures designed to encourage people to find work, or increase their hours.

How many people are unemployed?

But the unemployed represent only a small part of the 10 million working-age people (aged 16-64) who aren't in a paid job.

Nearly nine million of them aren't called "unemployed". That's because they're not actively looking for work, or available to start a job.

In fact, more of them say they want a job (1.7 million people) than are officially unemployed.

Who isn't working - and why?

The main reasons for not working vary according to age.

Most of the 2.7 million "inactive" people under 25 are students, according to the Office for National Statistics (ONS). The majority of them don't want a job.

You can see that in the graphic below. Click on the darker border surrounding any age group to see the spilt between men and women.

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Things are different in other age groups.

Among 25- to 49-year-olds, 1.1 million people don't work because of caring responsibilities (about a million of whom are women).

About 940,000 people in this age group are not working because of illness (more evenly split between men and women).

About a quarter of those who are sick or caring say they want a job.

Does it matter that people aren't looking for work?

Many people have chosen to do something else: studying, retirement or caring.

But for others it's not a choice.

Some people can't afford childcare if they return to work, others are too sick, or have given up on finding a job.

As the chart below shows, sickness and caring responsibilities are the most common reasons for inactivity given by those who actually would like a paid job.

The number of people not working has a broader effect.

Since people on benefits generally have less money to spend than those in work, it also means less spending on the high street.

That in turn is bad for businesses and how many people they want to employ.

In turn, that can affect how many jobs are available for those who are job hunting.

How does the UK compare with other countries?

During the pandemic, all major countries saw their workforce shrink.

But while most leading economies have since recovered, the UK still has about 400,000 more people not working than in December 2019.

Since its publication, the number of retirees has fallen back to pre-pandemic levels.

It also said there was a mismatch between available jobs and those that might, for instance, tempt someone out of retirement.

For example, the vacancy rate is highest in restaurants and hotels - an industry often offering shifts, physically-demanding jobs and low wages.

What can be done to get more people into work?

A series of reforms were announced in the Budget to help some people get jobs or increase the hours they work. The measures were particularly aimed at:

older workers

people on benefits

parents and carers of young children

those with health conditions

These include letting people save more in private pensions, extending free childcare and offering more support to help disabled people find paid employment.

Broadening the pool of people given support to return to the job market is key, experts argue.

Helen Gray from the Learning and Work Institute believes job centres should widen their focus and offer more tailored support.

At present, "only one in 10 out-of-work older people and disabled people get help to find work each year," she says.

Louise Murphy from the Resolution Foundation says ministers must look beyond those who left work during the pandemic as many retirees, for example, may never come back.

She says the government should focus on supporting people with disabilities and long-term health problems, as well as parents with children.

Data visualisation by Nicu Calcea

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Unemployment: Who are the millions of Britons not working?

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The unemployment rate is close to its lowest point since the 1970s, but millions aren't working.

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All the Spring 2021 Ready-to-Wear fashion show coverage in one place. Designer collections, reviews, photos, videos, and more.

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Comfort trouser - loose fit

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artistic, floral

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Underwater Garden Mood Board Photoshop Task

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Underwater Garden Mood Board Photoshop Task

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key colours - black, white, navy blue and beige

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Tencel x Refibra sustainable denim

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Mill Memo: Latest Circularity News and REFIBRA™ Denim from Turkey

Since in-person trade shows are still put on hold this fall, Carved in Blue is taking an opportunity to digitally connect with its community.

COVID-19 has created challenges, but it has also ushered in a "Great Reset," allowing companies to pause and accelerate their sustainable efforts.

We touched base with denim mills in Turkey to catch up on their latest initiatives to address circularity and SDG 12: responsible consumption and production. We also got the inside scoop on the newest ways they are using TENCEL™ x REFIBRA™ Lyocell in their creations.

CALIK DENIM

Turkey

Çiğdem Kaçar, product marketing manager
Carved in Blue: How are you addressing SDG 12?
Çiğdem: Within the scope of Calik Denim's 2025 sustainability goals, we have a goal of "increasing the use of organic, BCI and recycled cotton up to 60 percent," which we set in order to contribute to the SDG 12 target. The use of REFIBRA™ is expected to increase in line with increasing customer demands regarding the use of recycled fibers and our goal of using more recycled fiber.

Carved in Blue: What new fabrics have you developed with REFIBRA™ Technology?
Çiğdem: For the last two seasons, as Calik Denim we are developing products with TENCEL™ Lyocell fiber with REFIBRA™ Technology for our collections. As Lenzing's special fiber contributes to the circular economy, it is our pleasure to include it in our products' composition.

In our Retro Soft product concept, which combines ultra softness with authentic denim look, we have fabrics with REFIBRA™ Technology. "Antonie" product family is an example.

KIPAS DENIM

Turkey

Hürriyet Öztürk, product development director
Carved in Blue: How are you addressing SDG 12?
Hürriyet: According to UN development goals, we need to protect marine ecosystems and safeguard clean water. This puts greater emphasis on water used during the production of denim. With Innotech fabrics, we shift to a resourceful way of producing denim fabric where we offer a clean conscience with almost no trace of water during production. Water used during finishing is now a thing of the past. Innotech fabrics do not use water during finishing, and we consume less water during indigo dyeing with the help of ConservBlue technology. Meanwhile, our ConservBlue process enables denim production with less water, less energy, and chemicals during indigo dyeing process.
Carved in Blue: What new fabrics have you developed with REFIBRA™ Technology?
Hürriyet: Resolution is our concept where we employ sustainable fibers. We call it the green hub of sustainable solutions. This is a frontrunner denim line lightened by the frameworks of the circular design strategy. With Resolution, our focus will be on working with nature, in nature, and for nature. There are many TENCEL™ and REFIBRA™ fibers blended with other fiber for better future. For example, we have an article which has 47 percent cotton, 33 percent REFIBRA™, 18 percent Repreve, 2 percent elastane fiber composition. And we produce this fabric with ConservBlue, our green indigo dyeing technology.

BOSSA

Turkey

Özge Özsoy, marketing chief
Carved in Blue: How are you addressing SDG 12?
Özge: We know that we have to do our part even better and stronger than before. We must respect the planet. With our collection, choosing trends and developing our taste to match fashion needs, we are going forward in our mission. So our message is simple: Be more sustainable and this will benefit everybody. Sustainability is an opportunity, it's not a limit.

Starting from 2019, Bossa has begun to use all of its textile wastes in its blend by opening and cleaning them. We believe that this path, which Bossa set out with the zero waste principle, will inspire other stakeholders in the denim industry and the companies making all denim production in the medium term to adopt the zero waste principle. Bossa, which has transparently explained its production figures for the last three years with the "Towards Zero Waste" booklet, will continue to report annually its production values.

Carved in Blue: What new fabrics have you developed with REFIBRA™ Technology?
Özge: In our new AW 21/22 collection, we have two REFIBRA™ blended articles.

One is in our Heritage concept. Article name is Org.Rochester Saveknight. Story of the article is authentic look, comfort stretch, 100 percent sustainable future denim!

Combining sustainable fibers and dyeing techniques, we create the denim of the future. This article has a sustainable combination with REFIBRA™, recycled cotton, organic cotton and recycled elastane.

The pioneering REFIBRA™ Technology involves upcycling a substantial proportion of cotton scraps-for example, from garment production-in addition to wood pulp, where the raw material is transformed to produce new virgin TENCEL™ Lyocell fibers to make fabrics and garments. We use our wastes for recycled cotton, and organic cotton is also the well-known and oldest sustainable project. The main principles of organic cotton are GMO free seeds, no insecticides, no herbicides, no chemical fertilizers. Recycled elastane is 100 percent recycled and GRS certificated. This 100 percent sustainable article is also dyed with a Saveblue technology. 85 percent water saving was achieved in proportion to the conventional dyeing, therefore the same amount of water decrease in wastewater was realized.

The other one is in our Darkside concept. Article name is Org.Urim Saveblack Save OD Black.

Story of the article is towards zero water! This 100 percent sustainable future denim article is dyed with Saveblue+ technology. 85 percent water saving was achieved in proportion to the conventional dyeing and also 71 percent water saving was achieved in finishing process. Therefore the same amount of decrease in wastewater was realized in both dyeing and finishing processes.

This Saveblue+ quality is also Future Denim.

Combining sustainable fibers and dyeing techniques, we create the denim of the future. This article has a sustainable combination with REFIBRA™ and organic cotton.

INDIGO ISTANBUL

Turkey

Roberto Cedolin, marketing and sales manager
Carved in Blue: How are you addressing SDG 12?
Roberto: In order to keep the usage of the water in cotton production under control, we are trying to increase the usage of BCI cotton and organic cotton in our production.

In this period, we are trying to increase the usage of regenerated cellulose fibers TENCEL™ Lyocell and Modal in our production as an alternative to cotton fabrics. We believe that the comfortable structure of these materials may support "stay at home" spirit in this pandemic period with their certified quality.

As an alternative to cotton, we continue our research and developments on the idea of ​constructing ​linen and hemp fibered denim fabrics, which will be less harmful to the environment during production.

KILIM DENIM

Turkey

Elif Karahan, marketing executive
Carved in Blue: How are you addressing SDG 12?
Elif: World's problems are very fragile and require urgent solutions. SDG goals may lead the components of the industry to unite under one roof to create a stronger impact with the opportunity of unification. Under our roof, we have already been working towards for some of the headlines from SDG, and plan to integrate them to our sustainability strategy.

ISKUR DENIM

Turkey

Özlem Özkan, head of research and product development
Carved in Blue: How are you addressing SDG 12?
Özlem:

Management of our common and natural resources is extremely important within the scope of SDG 12 responsible consumption and production.

As Iskur Denim we are summarizing our efforts under Earthsquad concept.

Raw Material:

Cotton agriculture is the biggest user of water, that is why we are being very responsible for the use of cotton.

The cotton we use in our products are manufactured from BCI cotton, cultivated in our own lands, which spans 2,5 million square meters and is also home to organic agriculture.

We have Zero waste policy. Iskur Group has its own Re-Cycle Yarn facility and in this facility, we recycle all the cuttings collected from Group's textile factories. We are able to produce Post Consumer and Pre Consumer Re-Cycle Cotton Yarn.

In order to reduce the use of cotton, we are increasing the use of natural fibers. We recently added Lyocell, Modal, Linen, Soy Protein, Hemp and Cashmere fibers to our Earthsquad collection.

Energy:

We are acting responsibly to use the energy sources.

We are generating energy from our own Solar and Wind Panels.

Our solar panels installed on the roofs of Iskur Group's factories are generated 5,64 GWU electricity per year. That is equals the electricity requirement of 2.800 houses for a year.

Our wind power generates 70 million KWh energy which equals the electricity requirement of 40.000 houses per year

We also have Co-generation energy plant which prevents 11.000 tons of CO2 emission annually. It means 495.000 trees in nature don't have to try consume CO2.

Water:

Water is one of the most critical issue for the world. We developed a water saving indigo dyeing process (WAW). By using this process, we save up to 144.00 tons (95%) of water each year which come across 760 acres of cotton field and 288 tons of bale cotton.

Since 2018, the water performance has been calculated by CARBON TRUST and reported that we reduced water use by 22,3% in all entire factory. Our efforts for reducing water usage is certified and we are able to use Carbon Trust Standard Logo for our production.

ORTA

Turkey

Zennure Danişman, marketing and washing manager
Carved in Blue: How are you addressing SDG 12?
Zennure: What we love about SDGs is that they are inclusive. They are not only for governments or private sector but for every country, every company, every organization and all living creatures on earth. And they are all interlinked. You cannot ignore the importance of climate action while working on quality education or reduced inequalities. At Orta, we have a similar approach. We decided to consider the whole lifecycle of our products while taking into account all parties that are involved in it. That is the main aim when we start a project or a collaboration. And that is why we give great importance to sustainable farming and production practices for both cotton and other fibers. We have been using organic cotton since the beginning of 2000. We are a great supporter of BCI both internationally and locally and using fair trade cotton and finally carbon positive cotton with FibreTrace. And, of course, our collaboration with Lenzing. All of them are important to achieve our goal on SDG 12: responsible consumption and production.

We see a great value at our life cycle assessment studies towards achieving SDG 12. With LCA, we quantify our fabrics' potential environmental footprint, score them and share this info with our customers. We use this assessment during the product development stage as well to assess our design's performance, which enables us to save resources. That is why we see it as a great tool for designing for sustainability. Here we are collaborating with brands as well to transfer these scores to customers as well. Gen Z, the next generation shoppers, they want traceability, transparency, eco-conscious products. But while they do that, they need quantifiable, verifiable and comparable data. And we believe that LCA can give you this information.

The calculator is the cumulation of Orta's LCA studies for each and every newly developed fabric in our past four-season collections. Exclusively based on Orta denim fabric and processes, the tool is the next generation of the Orta Blu sustainability platform with a mission to create a future where denim is designed, produced, consumed and disposed of in radically different ways.

Continuing our commitment to making a real and lasting sustainability impact in the denim industry, Orta has created the Orta Blu App, a proprietary tool developed to differentiate materials and processes that go into ORTA's denim production based on environmental impacts from cradle to gate.

The Environmental Impact Calculator in the Orta Blu App calculates the environmental impacts of denim manufactured by Orta with Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) methodology starting from raw material extraction and following through each stage of denim production-from transporting the raw materials to the Orta mill to the spinning, dyeing, sizing, weaving, finishing, quality control and packaging.

The Orta Blu App calculates five overall environmental impacts, leading with global warming, which impacts climate change. Global warming is at the top of young eco-consumers' concerns. According to the U.N. Environment Programme (UNEP), clothing and footwear production is responsible for 8 percent of global greenhouse gas emissions. The other impacts include eliminating substances to water that contribute to oxygen depletion and water pollution; land use and deforestation; the measure of mineral, metal and fossil-fuel resources used to produce a product; and water usage, which Orta has been reducing by 70 percent with its Indigo Flow dyeing-process standard.

Carved in Blue: What new fabrics have you developed with REFIBRA™ Technology?
Zennure: As Orta, each season adapting circularity into our processes is our priority, and since 2019 we are focusing on Biodesign. We are taking nature's lead and exploring the symbiosis between science and design that promises to inspire a wider variety of visionary processes and systems than any individual discipline could develop alone.

For addressing circularity, we are following two approaches: Using recycled materials in production and creating recyclable fabrics. Material wise, we have blends containing recycled cotton, recycled polyester and TENCEL™ x REFIBRA™.

From our latest Here4Good collection, Blu Narratives concept, pays homage to the denim masters with Denim Tributes in fluid, lightweight constructions, future-retro marble mixes and the resurrection of vintage shapes for every garment imaginable.

Memoria takes the best of Orta's newest vintage characters to a renewed modernity.

From sophisticated grey and green cast vintage in recycled cotton, to marble vintage organic cotton with TENCEL™ x REFIBRA™ to pure indigo marble vintage colors, Memoria is the new throwback for generations to come.

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Mill Memo: Latest Circularity News and REFIBRA™ Denim from Turkey - Carved in blue - TENCEL™

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Since in-person trade shows are still put on hold this fall, Carved in Blue is taking an opportunity to digitally connect with its community. COVID-19 has created challenges, but it has also ushered in a "Great Reset," allowing companies to pause and accelerate their sustainable efforts.

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The quality control checklist should be used while the shipment inspection is done by auditor and quality inspector. In the apparel manufacturing, checking of raw materials, semi-stitched garments, stitched garments, and finished garments is done by internal quality assurance team. The manufacturer aims to pack the quality garments for shipping. But as a buyer, one should not completely trust the manufacturer's inspection report. Therefore, buyer's QA representative needs to do the shipment inspection after complete shipment is packed by the supplier factory.

As a buyer or quality assurance personnel or shipment auditor, you need to follow a quality control checklist for ensuring everything is covered during the inspection process. Assessment of the product quality should be done unbiased. A quality checklist is very helpful in this regard.

In the post, I will show you the quality control checklist those need to be followed for product sourcing. While doing a quality inspection of the shipment, various parameters are considered to ensure the product quality, packaging quality, and product safety.

Quality Control Checklist

1. Workmanship and stitching quality

Through stitching, process fabric is converted into garments. Therefore, the stitching quality must be as per the standards.

The workmanship of the garment is as per the approved sample

Check no open seam

Check for jump stitch

No undesired puckering in the seam lines

In case different fabrics are used in the garment, check fabric quality and color combination is correct

Check whether correct thread size and thread color are used for stitching or not

All trims and accessories (like drawstrings, beads) are attached to the garment as per safety norms.

2. Visual Inspection

In the visual inspection cover following points

Check if the garment is balanced (left and right side of the garment) and falls properly when holding with two hands.

There is no twisting in the garment

Check all labels (main label, size label, care label and special label) are attached as per instruction - at the right place

Text and print layout in the content label and care label are matched with the buyer approved labels.

Size label - Check the garment size and the label is matching

All trims and fasteners are secured and attached right place.

Print and embroidery (if applicable) placement are as per the design.

No undesired stain, oil mark, chalk mark, pressing mark, and soiling is there on the garments (invisible zones).

3. Fabric and raw material quality report

You may also need to check the quality of the trims. For this follow the fabric and trims test report.

All the fabric, lining, and material used in the garments are as per approved design

Compared trims details against the approved trim card.

Check the fabric quality test report (FPT and GPT) for the order you are inspecting - parameters like - fabric GSM, fabric weight, color fastness properties, seam slippage, button pulling strength, dimensional stability, fabric shrinkage user limit (whichever is applicable for the shipment.

Compare the print and embroidery work with the approved samples (swatch)

If you found shade different between garments, look at approved shade band and compared that all shades are within the approved fabric shade bands

Do a visual inspection for any kind of defects

There should not be an iron mark (shiny mark) and should not be an unwanted crease on the pressed garments.

Measurement checking - check the measurement of all sizes of garments. If there is measurement variation in some point of measure (POM) compared to the spec sheet, it must be within the tolerance level

If required check the garment fit in a dress form

In case pattern matching is required (for prints, stripes, check patterns) - check it is under allowance

Check garment hand feels and washing quality (if applicable) are as per standards.

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Quality Control Checklist for Apparel Product Sourcing

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The quality control checklist should be used while the shipment inspection is done by auditor and quality inspector. In the apparel manufacturing, checking of raw materials, semi-stitched garments, stitched garments, and finished garments is done by internal quality assurance team. The manufacturer aims to pack the quality garments for shipping.

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The group started off by planning what each individual was going to work on. I focused on Topshop as I work there and have a good understanding of the brand and their products. I wish I challenged myself more and chose a brand outside of my comfort zone. This is something I will consider in a future project.
Once the group decided what product group we wanted to focus on, we carried out our research independently. We then fed back our research gatherings and collated a presentation. I believe the group project went well as we all communciated in person and over Whatsapp and had a very clear organised strategy.

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In light of Global Recycling Day this Saturday, we thought it was a good time to show off all the pieces at Topshop you probably didn't know were recycled. Our CONSIDERED collection focuses on sustainable and eco-friendly clothing designed using lower-impact materials, innovative production methods and partnerships with certified suppliers. Better still: some of the products in this range are actually made of recycled materials so your wardrobe can be a little kinder to the planet. Scroll through to see our top picks...

For days lounging or to achieve an effortless street style look, a trusty hoodie will always have a place in your wardrobe. Our recycled hoodies come in both grey and ecru and pair best with matching joggers or smart trousers.

2. Underwear

Discover our line of recycled lace underwear that includes dreamy bras, bralettes and knickers that are almost too pretty to be true. Browse the collection and see which sets take your fancy...

If you're anything like us, summer is the only thing on our minds right now. And what better way to spend beach days and poolside lunches than in our recycled swimwear. Whether you like one-pieces or bikinis, we've got you covered...

Another classic staple which is essential to any wardrobe is a good T-shirt. We're sure you already know the drill with this one - pair them with absolutely anything for easy and effortless style.

Soon enough, it will be 'all you need is a light jacket'-weather, so why not make yours recycled? Whether you go for a denim, leather or shacket style, our CONSIDERED collection definitely offers something that'll catch your eye.

You know we've got good denim but it's even better when it's recycled. Our classic Jamie jeans now also come in recycled cotton styles - the same perfect fit, just better for the planet. Plus, there are some denim skirts and dresses to ease us into the brighter months.

7. Skirts and dresses

As spring approaches, all we want to do is prance around in flowing floral dresses and skirts. Get yours now to wear with boots and trenches and swap these out for sandals when the sun starts to come out.

Mother's Day is coming up - The Girls At Topshop HQ Share The Style Tips They Learnt From Their Mums...

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7 Things To Buy At Topshop You Didn't Know Were Recycled - Topshop Blog

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In light of Global Recycling Day this Saturday, we thought it was a good time to show off all the pieces at Topshop you probably didn't know were recycled. Our CONSIDERED collection focuses on sustainable and eco-friendly clothing designed using lower-impact materials, innovative production methods and partnerships with certified suppliers.

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About Stakeholder Engagement & Materiality Sustainable Development Goals Latest News Contact

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An ambitious and creative individual currently studying Fashion Buying and Merchandising at Fashion Retail Academy. I have experience in both garment design, construction, research and the technical side.

Being a sales advisor for almost four years at one of Topshop's Flagship stores has given me a thorough insight into the world of retail. My responsibility is to maximise store sales and profitability by providing excellent customer service and maintain good housekeeping on the shop floor. I also have to deal with any customer queries/complaints in a polite manner. Working on the tills allows me to see a pattern of best sellers, what gets returned and why they get returned. With this knowledge, I am able to feed that into Garment Tech. I process shoe deliveries and use my visual merchandising skills to place new lines onto the shop floor. The skills that I have gained include teamwork, independent work, communication, organisation, problem solving and initiative.
I love to collaborate with people. I want to see a garment I put my blood, sweat and tears into on the cover of a magazine or in the best sellers category. To feel a sense of achievement when my hard work pays off is what drives me. I'm fascinated by future trends and I want to provide the industry with innovative, fashion-forward products. The fast-paced environment is exciting and I want to help a retailer be one step ahead of the game.

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Jasmine Sanders - Sales Advisor (Shoe Specialist) - TOPSHOP TOPMAN | LinkedIn

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An ambitious and creative individual currently studying Fashion Buying and Merchandising at Fashion Retail Academy. I have experience in both garment design, construction, research and the technical side. Being a sales advisor for almost four years at one of Topshop's Flagship stores has given me a thorough insight into the world of retail.

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The world is brimming with clothing manufacturers from the likes of China, Bangladesh, Pakistan, India, Italy, Turkey and numerous other countries. So which country should you choose to do business with? If you're an amateur, you might be tempted to spin a pinwheel and hope for the best. However, we have another idea. We recommend you choose a Turkish clothing manufacturer. Why? Read on to understand!

Background: Turkish Clothing History

Textile production started in Turkey back during the Ottoman period between the late 1200s and early 1600s. It wasn't until the mid 1920s that Turkey elevated itself into a major player in the textile industry. These days, Turkey exports over £6 billion in textile goods every year. These good are produced by a variety of manufacturers - some small, some large. There are in fact over 11,000 individual manufacturers producing clothing goods in Turkey alone.

Reason 1: Powerful Production Capacity

Turkey excels in the production of yarn and woven fabric. This production is due in large part to huge investments that were made in the mid 1900s. Between the early and late 1900s, production of just yarn grew from 670,000 tonnes to a whopping 1.92 million tonnes. Similar growth spurts occurred with wool, cotton yawn and synthetic yawn (polyester, acrylics, viscose, etc.)

Turkey also keeps a very abundant supply of raw materials handy. For instance, it's the sixth largest producer of common. It falls behind only the U.S., China, India, Uzbekistan and Pakistan.

The point is that a Turkish clothing manufacturer is not apt to ever run out of raw materials and fabrics!

Reason 2: Cheap Labor

According to Werner International, average wage rates in the Turkish clothing industry hover around £1.47 per hour. This is admittedly significantly higher than rates in China (£0.26), India (£0.29) and elsewhere. However, it is still much cheaper than hiring UK employees.

The point is that you would save bundles of money by outsourcing your manufacturing to a manufacturer in Turkey.

Reason 3: Fast Transportation

Turkey's geographic location lends itself toward relatively fast transportation times. This means you wind up spending less to get your goods transported all the way from Turkey to your office or retail outlet in the United Kingdom. In fact, Turkey's lead times are significantly shorter than those for its competitors from other countries. Based on our own experiences, the average lead time is 60 days, including 10 days of freight travel.

The point is that you'll save time and money on transportation costs if you rely on a Turkish clothing manufacturer.

Reason 4: National Focus (Passion)

In Turkey, the textile industry makes up a very large chuck of its economy. In fact, the country employers almost 1 million workers throughout tens and thousands of textile companies. Furthermore, textiles make up almost a quarter of all its exports.

The point is that the Turkish people are very passionate about textiles, and passion should count when looking for a manufacturer.

Reason 5: Environmental Safety

Turkey is one of a select few countries that mandates that all its textile manufacturers comply with internationally accepted environmental standards. As an example, unlike many Far East and Asian countries, Turkey bans the use of carcinogenic dyes. This results in more environmentally safe products.

The point is that Turkey is serious about protecting the environment, and this is a definite talking point that you can use in your sales copy.

Reason 6: Low MOQ's

When you're first starting out in the business, you're not really interested in buying in bulk quantities of 1000, 10,000 or even 100,000. Not only is it not feasible on your budget, but it's also full of risk. It's much better to take the time to slowly build your way up to those levels. Along the way, you'll find out if the manufacturer is able to maintain quality with the quantity.

It just so happens that Turkish clothing manufacturers offer some of the lowest 'minimum order quantity' (MOQ) rates in the world. We're talking MOQ's as low as 100 to 300, which is pretty amazing for this industry!

The point is that Turkey is much better suited for fashion designers and artists who are just starting out and thus not interested in bulk orders.

Reason 7: Plenty Of Options

Turkey manufacturers rank higher than many of its admittedly cheaper Far East competitors because they offer a wider selection of goods. In particular, Turkish clothing manufacturers can make t-shirts, sweaters, dress shirts, jackets, jeans, knitwear and more. Furthermore, these goods are offered at very reasonable rates.

The point is that Turkey is equipped to handle the type of 'fancy' gear people are accustomed to in first world countries.

Reason 8: Unified Monetary Policies

Some countries suffer from a severe case of divided government. Take Australia for instance. Each of its individual states and territories abide by a plethora of different rules and regulations. This makes conducting business with Australia a genuine pain in the you know what.

Turkey, on the other hand, utilizes monetary policies and banking systems that are uniform throughout the whole nation. This means that it doesn't matter where in Turkey a manufacturer is located, because the rules will still remain the exact same.

The point is that dealing with Turkey is much easier than dealing with countries where each province, state or territory hosts its own rules.

Final Thoughts: Choose Turkey

We realize that some of you might still be stuck on the wages. They are admittedly higher than the wages in many Far East countries. However, please keep all the other benefits in mind:

An exemplary production capacity.

Short lead times.

Environmental standards.

Low minimum order quantities.

Diverse options.

Unified financial policies.

Overall, you are going to be much better off if you choose Turkey. If you're outsourcing, you're already taking a big risk by putting your trust in entities that exist outside of your border and thus outside of your government's jurisdiction. So if you are going to take a risk, why not minimize your risk by going with a country that ranks miles ahead of its competitors?

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8 Reasons Why You Should Choose a Turkish Clothing Manufacturer For Your Business

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The world is brimming with clothing manufacturers from the likes of China, Bangladesh, Pakistan, India, Italy, Turkey and numerous other countries. So which country should you choose to do business with? If you're an amateur, you might be tempted to spin a pinwheel and hope for the best.

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For a long time in human history, maritime shipping was the best way to transport your goods across the world. About 71% of Earth's surface is covered in oceans. Therefore, transporting your goods on a ship to another continent was a relatively straightforward operation in comparison to land shipping. However, with the advancements in technology, air-shipping has become a dominant form of long-distance transportation. Still, this doesn't mean that maritime shipping doesn't come with its own unique pros that make it a better choice in some cases. Of course, the cons of maritime shipping exist as well.
The pros of maritime shipping
We'll begin by discussing the positive aspects of maritime shipping. As we said, in some situations, these advantages will be enough to tip the scales in favor of choosing maritime freight services.
There's a lot of room on vessels and they can transport heavy goods
One of the biggest advantages of maritime shipping is that ships can carry all kinds of rather heavy goods. You will have to use ocean freight services if you're running a business that imports or exports heavy objects, as airplanes usually cannot transport such goods. And if they can, the cost of shipping will be very high. Automobiles, various machinery, industrial parts, and so on, are just some of the things you won't be able to transport by air (if you don't want to spend a fortune, that is).

Generally, maritime-shipping companies provide their customers with much more space than their air counterparts. Not only can they transport heavy goods, but they can transport a lot of them. This makes for high competitive rates and allows maritime shipping companies to easily take care of large demands. Whether you're transporting heavy goods or a very large amount of lighter goods, maritime shipping is your best option.
Maritime shipping is highly affordable
The fact that there's so much space on cargo transportation vessels means that it's not hard to find the space for your goods. Then, there's also the fact that all businesses whose goods are being carried will share the cost of the specific vessel arriving at its destination. It is primarily because of these reasons that maritime shipping is among the most affordable ways to move your cargo. And when compared with its biggest rival in terms of long-distance shipping (we're talking about air shipping options, of course), maritime freight services are much ( much) less expensive. What's more, with maritime industry reshaping its supply chain, more accurate cost models are now being introduced.
Vessels are more eco-friendly
When compared with aircrafts, vessels also provide much better options for eco-friendly shipping. Aircrafts use a lot of petroleum, leaving a very large carbon trail. This, in turn, damages the atmosphere. Such carbon trails disrupt the ecological balance and contribute to the negative effects of global warming. Even the slight cirrus clouds that form behind aircrafts contribute to impact these negative effects on Mother Nature.

As vessels don't use a lot of petroleum, they leave a small carbon trail. In most cases, this makes them a better option for business-owners who are concerned with helping the planet Earth.
The cons of maritime shipping
Now it's time to talk about the cons of maritime shipping. Depending on the situation, the advantages we've discussed sometimes won't suffice, as these cons could make you choose another form of shipping.
Maritime cargo transportation is slow
If you need to transport your goods quickly, then maritime shipping will prove to be far worse for your needs than air shipping. Vessels usually have a long way to travel and they're much slower than aircrafts. In a situation where an aircraft would transport your goods in a day or two, a ship would need an entire month to do so (and that is if there are no delays). While the situation is improving and maritime shipping is becoming faster, if you need fast shipping - vessels won't do.

The key here is in deciding whether faster shipping will bring you more profit. If a much slower transportation speed won't negatively influence the profits, then opting for much more affordable maritime shipping seems like the right thing to do.
Ocean freight services can suffer from delays
However, keep in mind that ocean freight shipping options can sometimes make your customers unsatisfied, as they're not as reliable as air shipping options. Namely, ships operate on weekly schedules and different problems often occur. There's always a good chance that your deliveries will be delayed. And your customers definitely won't be pleased with that. While you will save some money if you opt for maritime shipping, you better learn how to communicate bad news to your customers.

While their goods won't get damaged, the possible delays will sometimes make your customers choose another supplier. However, if you don't have a strict deadline and you don't need to transport the goods very quickly, then maritime shipping could be the best option for you.
About the author: Originally from New Jersey, Alex Durick has been working for bfslebanon.com for three years now. He specializes in freight services related to relocation and also shares bits of knowledge on his company's blog. Six years worth of experience in the freight business has made him an expert in many areas related to freight shipping, and he's happy to share his findings with anyone who's willing to listen.

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While you will save some money if you opt for maritime shipping, you better learn how to communicate bad news to your customers.

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I believe I chose the most suitable sourcing country for my chosen product. Topshop source their denim from Turkey as they offer a good deal of denim mills. They produce high quality garments at a very cheap rate. There is a quick lead time, which is beneficial for Topshop as they can buy more product in a short amount of time. As the most popular product area is denim, Turkey would be the ideal country to source from.

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The group started off by planning what each individual was going to work on. I focused on Topshop as I work there and have a good understanding of the brand and their products. I wish I challenged myself more and chose a brand outside of my comfort zone. This is something I will consider in a future project.
Once the group decided what product group we wanted to focus on, we carried out our research independently. We then fed back our research gatherings and collated a presentation. I believe the group project went well as we all communciated in person and over Whatsapp and had a very clear organised strategy.