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Build Your Own Laptop - Guide

When it comes to laptops, a good number of consumers choose to build their own laptops instead of purchasing a pre-assembled model. There are obvious benefits to this. For starters, you can pick the parts you need. This allows you to have a system that is perfectly designed for your individual use. Since you're not spending money on components you didn't really want, you'll also save a few dollars while you're at it.

It doesn't matter if you're a tech enthusiast who's up to date with the latest hardware, or a casual user trying to get a little more value for their money. Our simple guide will help you build your own laptop, and explain the process along the way.

Building a Laptop vs Building a Desktop

Before we begin, you should know that there are a few key differences between laptops and desktops. Each component in a desktop computer is designed to fit a common standard. Often, they are physically interchangeable.

Laptops aren't quite like that. Because of their compact size, manufacturers custom make many of the components for each individual model. So, you might not physically assemble every component of a laptop, but you do have the ability to pick and choose exactly which parts you want when you decide to build your own laptop. If you do want the experience of putting everything together yourself, you still have the option. But how much control depends on where you get your laptop, and what brand it is.

Typical "bare bones" kids have most of the components installed, leaving you to add a few extras. Generally, this will be your memory, , and wireless networking card. Other systems offer interchangeable graphics cards. Finally, in rare cases, you're even able to install the CPU on your own.

There are three main companies that manufacture bare bones computers. The two most popular are Sager and . These two companies are the only manufacturers that allow their systems to be interchangeable with common parts. Many companies that allow you to build your own laptop purchase these computers in bulk and keep an inventory of all compatible parts. When you order, you can pick and choose the components you like, and they'll assemble the complete system for you. There are also a few manufacturers who offer customizable laptops, although these vary from model to model.

Generally, this is only recommended for experts. Compact systems cannot be self-built, as they need to be assembled in a factory with precise tooling. But this doesn't mean that you can't customize them. This guide will help you choose the components, so you can build the exact laptop you want.

Selection Criteria When Building Your Own Laptop

When you're building your own laptop, the main focus will be on what components are used inside. All computers are made up of several different components, each of which have their own benefits in terms of price and performance. You can choose your processor, memory, storage device, graphics card, and network card. These parts are generally interchangeable between notebooks, so you can afford to be selective.

Then, there are a few non-component criteria that are not interchangeable. Screen size, design, and other elements that are embedded in the case only change model to model. When you're building your laptop, the first thing you're going to want to do is to pick the components you want. Then, you can choose a platform that suits these components. Let's start looking through the components one by one, so you can find the parts that best suit your needs.

Your Laptop's Processor

Also known as a CPU, the processor is essentially the brains of your computer. For the most part, your entire PC is built around this one little chip. It determines how power efficient your system will be, and what other parts you can choose. There are five different categories for mobile processors.

Low Power Laptop Processors

These tiny chips are the most power efficient processors on the market. They are used in systems that need long battery life, and only offer performance suitable for the casual user. From slowest to fastest, you've got the Intel Atom, Core m3, m5, and m7. Generally, these CPUs are soldered onto the board, and not found in custom built laptops.
Our Recommendation: Xiaomi Air 13 [Readers' Favorite]
The Intel Pentium, Celeron, and the AMD E-series processors are designed to be affordable above all else. These are found in low-end systems, but offer performance acceptable enough to complete basic office tasks. If you don't need much from your computer, many manufacturers will sub one of these in for a mainstream processor.

Our Recommendation: Acer Aspire One

Most laptops will have one of these processors installed. From intel, you can choose between the i3 and the i5 series processors. The i3 is quite basic, although it offers snappy performance for office use. The i5 is a little more multi-media centric and even lets you play some basic games. AMD also has the less-popular A series processor, which sits somewhere between the i3 and i5 in terms of performance.

Our Recommendation: Asus ZenBook UX330UA-AH54

Whether you're looking for a cutting-edge media machine or a polygon-crunching gaming system, the performance category is where you find the best systems. The Intel i7 is currently the best performance CPU on the market. In its 6 generation, the i7 is available in a dual-core 'prosumer' model for those who need a little extra power. Or, you can elect for one of the HQ or K model processors which are quad-core but use much more power.

Our Recommendation: Xotic Sager NP8156

Your Laptop's Memory

The RAM is where your laptop build stores all the data it's currently working with. You can think of it like the desk that an office employee sits at to do his work. Imagine trying to deal with hundreds of pages of paperwork on a small, cramped desk. This is what it's like to use a laptop with low memory. There are two ways you can measure the performance of your ram.

Size Of Memory

The most obvious measurement of memory is the size. Some laptops ship with as little as 2GB, while others have 32GB installed. For most people, you'll want at least 8GB for daily web browsing and computer use. Power users will likely want to step it up to 16GB of memory, the current sweet spot between price and value. Heavy gamers or multimedia users may consider 32GB, although there are limited applications that can use this much memory. Fortunately, most laptops allow you to configure the ram size.

Your memory is clocked to be in sync with your processor, so you often don't have a lot of control over this aspect. Laptops come with either DDR3 or DDR4 memory. If you're unsure of which one to get, check the specifications for your processor. It will give you the appropriate reading. The only exception to this rule is the few who wish to purchase a K-series i7 processor and overclock it. But overclocking is rare in laptops and certain to void your warranty.

Your Laptop's Storage

This is where your laptop keeps all of its files. There are a few different types of internal storage on the market to consider when you want to build your own laptop, and which one you can choose depends a little on the platform you're using. The three metrics you're going to use to measure your internal storage are type, interface, and size.

Storage Type

There are two types of local storage you can choose from for the laptop you're building, Solid state (SSD) or Hard Drive (HDD). These days, there are very few reasons to choose a hard drive. This old technology is very inexpensive and can hold a large amount of data. However, it is incredibly slow. These drives are only suitable as a secondary backup drive to a primary storage device. SSDs, on the other hand, are very fast and very reliable.

Both hard drives and solid state drives are commonly sold in a 2.5" SATA format. However, we are seeing more of these being sold as an M2/PCIe style. M2 is a small connector that gives access to the high-speed PCIe bus. When you want to build your own laptop, you'll want to use this format if you would prefer to keep your 2.5" space free for additional storage.

SSDs are available in sizes ranging from 128GB up to 1TB. Hard drives can be purchased in 500GB to 2TB sizes. We recommend a 256GB or 512GB SSD for most use. However, if you need additional storage and have space for an M2 SSD, you can supplement a 1TB HDD in quite inexpensively. While not fast enough for daily use, it's perfect for storing your media files.

Graphics

Depending on how you use your laptop, your graphics cards either do a lot or a little. This is one of the biggest areas you can increase your laptop's performance if you're doing demanding tasks. They can be broken into three main categories

Integrated Graphics

The latest Intel i-series CPUs actually have a graphics card built right in. This is known as onboard graphics, and it's actually quite impressive! For day to day use, and even a little light gaming, integrated graphics is enough for most people.

For Laptop Gamers, the only option is an Nvidia GTX series mobile graphics card. There are two generations on the market right now: Pascal, and Maxwell. Pascal is the latest, including the top of the line GTX 1080. These cards come at a price, so many gamers choose to sacrifice 10 to 20% of the performance and save 40 to 50% of the price with a Maxwell based GTX 980.

The Nvidia Quattro graphics cards are based on a similar architecture as their gaming cards, but they've been tweaked for professional use. These cards are used for video editing, 3D rendering, and mathematical simulations. Even though it's the most expensive on the list, there is no reason to buy it unless you really need it.

Although it's not a component you commonly think about, your display has a huge effect on how much you enjoy your computer. You spend most of your time looking at it, so picking the correct one is important. There are two main things you want to look for, size and resolution.

Display Size

Laptops are sold with displays ranging from 10" up to 17". Once you pick your laptop, you won't be able to change the screen size later. Often, if you're not happy with the display size in a particular model, the only option is to choose a different one. Right now, the sweet spot for displays is 13" for portability, or 15" for performance. 17" displays are very nice to use, but should only be selected if you're not going to be carting your laptop around with you all the time. Large displays also use more power to light, so you can expect a drop in battery life. On the other side of the equation, 10" and 11" laptops are often sold as ultraportable or convertible tablets. Generally, these systems are so compact that you won't have a lot of configuration options.

Resolution refers to the number of pixels in your display. When you see apple advertising their laptops as 'retina,' this just means that the pixels are so dense you cannot tell them apart. There are many laptops on the market that have 4K displays, which are equivalent to the retina models used in Apple's computers. Most computers, however, ship with 1080p displays. Not only are they affordable, but most software is designed to run on a 1080p display. If you're gaming, the lower resolution means that you'll see higher frame rates.

Most self-built laptops have a number of other features that you can pick and choose from. Things like fingerprint readers, large touchpads, and memory card readers are often included. For the most part, these components are not user installed. You need to ask the manufacturer for them if they are an option. The one thing you may need to install yourself is a network card. You're going to want to get one that supports 802.11ac. This is the latest networking technology and gives you the fastest performance on any wireless hotspot.

Laptop Build Recommendations

If you still haven't found a laptop system you like, we've got some recommendations. All of these systems come pre-configured but if you're only looking to building your own laptop, these systems are completely ready for you to customize. Remember, you have two options. Most consumers will want to choose all the components themselves and have assembly completed by the manufacturer. Alternately, you can do the assembly by ordering them without RAM, storage, or networking interfaces and installing these components separately. Not every manufacturer allows this, but it can be an option.

Affordable Custom Laptops [Readers' Favourite]

Generally, custom laptops are sold to people who want the highest performance possible. But that doesn't mean you'll have to pay top dollar. Our recommendation is the ENZ K36 Gaming Laptop .

What This Laptop Comes With

This system comes with a 15.6-inch FHD IPS display, an Intel Core i7-6700HQ processor, and Intel HD Graphics 530 + NVIDIA GeForce GTX-960M. It's a great gaming machine, and it's very well equipped to handle anything else you throw at it.
You Might Also Like:
Sager NP8177
This intel i7 based computer gives you a bigger display. You can choose a better graphics card and up to 16GB of memory.

MSI PE60
MSI designed this system for people who might want to do a little light gaming. It's got an Intel Core i7 processor and can be used with a high-speed M2 SSD.

Most Powerful Custom Laptops

If you want a top of the line computer, then you've come to the right place. Most custom build laptops cater to the high-end crowd. Our recommendation is the .

What it Comes With

This laptop build has a massive 17.3″ 4K QFHD screen. It takes the latest i7 processors and is recommended for the quad-core model.

What You Choose

It has interchangeable graphics cards and can be configured for SLI (dual cards) if you like. With four ram slots, you can install up to 64GB of 2400 MHz memory. There are two 2.5" slots, and one M2 slot, so you can have up to three storage devices.

You Might Also Like:

Asus G70
This laptop has a thinner profile but can support the latest Nvidia GTX 1080 graphics card. It has two M2 SSD slots, so you can have more SSD storage than any other computer on the market.

This laptop is designed for professionals. It comes pre-installed with a Quadro M5500 graphics card and can support up to 64GB of ram, Dual M2 SSDs, and a 1TB HDD.

If you're looking to build a laptop that meets your exact specifications, there are hundreds of options to choose from. To narrow it down, all you need to do is find out which components best suit your needs, and find a model that meets those requirements. We've made some recommendations throughout this guide, and hopefully, that will narrow down your choices.

Until next time!

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Build your own laptop computer: a guide for everyone

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When it comes to laptops, a good number of consumers choose to build their own laptops instead of purchasing a pre-assembled model. There are obvious benefits to this. For starters, you can pick the parts you need. This allows you to have a system that is perfectly designed for your individual use.

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While it can feel daunting to build a PC, the ability to choose your own components is more than worth the time investment. Because building a computer is potentially overwhelming, we've crafted a step-by-step guide to help you through the process.

We'll tell you everything you need to know about staying safe and organized while you install all the elements of your PC in the proper order. Get ready to step back in pride as you power on your own custom-built computer.

Getting started

This guide is all about piecing components together to create a functional machine. If you haven't selected and purchased all the required hardware, make sure you do that first. It's also a good idea to purchase (or craft) your case last so you can make sure everything will fit inside it.

Have your parts? Good. Let's build a computer!

There are a couple of safety issues to discuss before we actually start ripping open those boxes.

Safety first

There's an invisible risk when building a computer that can crush the most powerful system: Static electricity. The same force that lets you shock your friends when you wear wool socks can also fry components in a heartbeat. Fortunately, static is easy to all but eliminate with a few simple steps.

One simple solution is to purchase an anti-static wristband. One end wraps around your wrist, and the other clips somewhere on the computer case, keeping the wearer constantly grounded. Touching the case frequently with the PSU plugged in and powered off achieves the same effect.

This guide serves as a general overview of the process, and the instructions packed with your parts may vary from our suggestions. When they do, default to the included instructions and use our guide as a road map for the overall project.

Opening the case

Preparing the case is the easy part. Instructions for the specific case you purchased should introduce you to its basic layout as well as list special instructions regarding component installation.

Lay down the case in your work area and remove the side panel. For most PC cases, this means the left-side panel when viewed from the front. This panel provides access to the case interior.

Also, remove anything that's dangling inside the case. If it's attached, push it aside. Many cases have permanent internal wiring that becomes problematic later on.

Before we start putting everything together, we'll first install the power supply and then set the case aside for a few minutes.

Step 1: Install the power supply

The first component to make its way into the case should be the power supply (PSU). It is typically located at the rear of the case, usually in the bottom or top corner.

When in doubt, the slot is easily located by searching for a square opening with screw holes in at least two corners. The PSU sits in this opening with its power switch and a female socket facing out from the case's back panel. Consult your case's manual if you have trouble finding the proper location.

There are two main power supply variants: Standard and modular. There's a hybrid semi-modular type too, but we don't need to worry about that for now.

Modular PSUs have cables that detach from the main unit to avoid clutter. They're ideal for smaller cases and neat freaks. If you have a modular PSU, it's best to leave the cables out for now and run them as you install each additional component.

If the PSU's cables don't detach, carefully bundle them so they're hanging out the case's open side panel. This temporarily keeps them out of the way while we install the remaining components.

Step 2: Install the processor

Next, prepare the motherboard by installing the CPU, cooler, and RAM before fitting it in the case. They're a lot easier to install now rather than after the motherboard resides in the system.

In fact, depending on your case and cooler, you may not be able to assemble your system with the motherboard already installed. That's because many after-market coolers use a backplate to provide the tightest fit possible. It is, of course, attached to the back of the motherboard. You won't be able to install it unless you have a case with a cut-out that aligns with the backplate's location, a feature typically found only in high-end enclosures.

There are numerous pins on the CPU and motherboard, and bending any one of them could render that component kaput.

Carefully remove the motherboard from its anti-static bag and set it on a hard, flat, non-metal surface such as a wooden desk, or the top of the motherboard box itself. Also, make sure there are no sources of dust or liquid nearby.

Even though installing a CPU is an easier task now than it was in previous years, it's still one of the most precarious. There are numerous pins on the CPU and motherboard, and bending any one of them could render that component kaput.

That said, the process isn't designed to be difficult, and as long as you follow the instructions clearly and keep an eye out to ensure the chip is fully seated before you clamp it in place, you'll be fine. However, there are some subtle differences in the process depending on who made your CPU.

Instead of jutting from the processor, pins now reside in modern Intel sockets on motherboards, making CPU installation easy. This part of the socket is called the contact array. Absolutely do not bend or touch these pins!

The square metal bracket holding the CPU in place is the load plate, and it's raised and lowered using the load lever. When clamped down, the end of the load lever tucks under a hook to keep everything in place.

First, open the load plate. Do this by gently pushing down on the load arm and moving it out sideways from under the hook, and then raising it up all the way. The hook's lever action opens the plate, which you can easily flip up. If it's a new motherboard, there may be a plastic or foam filler in the socket, which you can gently remove.

Use the load arm on the side to lower the plate over the chip, then push down and re-clip the arm under the hook once again. This requires a fair amount of pressure, so make sure the chip is properly seated before pressing down.

Remember, the notches in the processor should align with those in the socket. If in doubt, start again and double-check.

Unlike Intel's design, pins jut from AMD's CPUs. These pins insert into holes embedded in the motherboard's CPU socket. The load arm on the socket slightly shifts the holes underneath, gripping the pins on the processor when pressed all the way down.

If it isn't already, raise the arm so that it's pointing straight up, and then rests a little farther back. That ensures the holes for the pins are wide open.

Instead of using notches, correctly line up the processor in the slot using a triangle engraved in gold on one of the CPU's corners. All you need to do is line that triangle up with a second triangle cut into the slot.

Once the processor sits comfortably in the slot, simply press the arm down until it clicks into place and locks in. This last step can be intimidating since it requires a fair amount of pressure to lock in place.

Step 3: Install the RAM

System memory, or RAM, doesn't require any careful goo placement or wires. There are just two important factors, assuming you've chosen compatible RAM: Direction and slot choice.

The direction is easy enough. Each memory stick has a notch in the contacts lining the bottom edge that lines up with a block in the motherboard's memory slots. If you hold it just above the slot and the two line up, it's facing the right direction. If it doesn't line up, spin it 180 degrees.

Slot choice depends on a few factors, one of which is how you purchased RAM. If it's just a single stick, install it in the A1 slot and move on with your life. A diagram in the motherboard's manual should label the slots if it isn't printed directly on the PCB.

However, you likely purchased two identical RAM sticks, a common package called a dual-channel configuration. The system can use both sticks as if they were a single block of RAM but accesses them individually, providing a modest boost to memory performance.

You should install these sticks in channels (slots) with matching colors, usually labeled A1 and B1, though sometimes A2 and B2 are preferable. Check your motherboard's manual to confirm which are best for your system.

Now that we know the proper slot and direction, the next part is easy. Push the plastic wings at either end of the slot down and outward (some motherboards only have one) then place the stick in the slot sticking straight up. Push down firmly until the RAM clicks into the slot, and the plastic wings click back in and clamp the ends of the sticks.

We put together a more detailed guide for how to install RAM if you need additional information.

Step 4: Install the motherboard

Installing your packed motherboard is easy enough, but it can't just sit in your case. Most modern cases have built-in, non-removable spacers between the back wall and motherboard, known as standoffs. They act as a ground for the motherboard while preventing the connections on the back from shorting.

Some cases have removable stand-offs you must manually install. They're easy to identify because they look unusual - essentially screws that have another screw hole on top instead of the typical screwdriver notch. They're usually copper or gold in color, making them easy to pick out.

If not, you may need to wiggle the motherboard slightly to make sure it snaps properly into the I/O shield and the stands-offs align. This may require some effort, but it shouldn't require much force. If you're forcing the motherboard, double-check how it's aligned, as it may not be properly positioned. Be firm but gentle.

Don't go wild while tightening screws, as you might damage the board if you put in too much effort.

Depending on the case and motherboard combination, pairing the two requires between six and 10 screws. You may find that not all holes match up with standoffs underneath. Drop a screw into a hole to see if it threads right away.

Like every set of screws, the first step is seating the screws and giving them a couple of precursory turns. Then, proceed in a star pattern, tightening each screw a little at a time. Don't go wild while tightening as you might damage the board. You only need enough torque to hold the board in place without wiggling.

Once the motherboard seats comfortably in the case, there are a few necessary connections.

First, the motherboard's power connection is a wide, two-row cable that fits snugly into a similar looking spot on the board itself. This 20-28 pin connector powers both the motherboard and the CPU. However, some boards have a second 4-pin or 8-pin connector for the processor, which resides near your CPU, typically in the top corner. If you have it, you'll need to plug that in, too.

Second, connect the case plugs and buttons to the motherboard. A double-wide row of pins - the location of which will be noted in your manual - runs the USB ports, buttons for reset and power, and activity LEDs for power and storage.

These small cables run in a bundle from wherever the ports reside in the case. Proper installation can be difficult, however, due to their size. If you have a magnifying glass or a set of tweezers, now is a great time to use them. Some motherboards include an adapter that bridges these jumpers to the right connections on your motherboard. Otherwise, installing them is as simple as matching the labels on the pins with the labels on the connections.

The USB header connecting to your front-facing motherboard ports will be on its own. This connection is around eight by two pins, and they're enclosed in a larger plastic housing. This header has a notch on one side that should clearly indicate which direction it plugs in.

Step 5: Install the CPU cooler and/or heat sink

With the motherboard now tethered to your case, you can wipe the sweat of concentration off your brow. Now it's time for the CPU cooler or heat sink!

Installation is simpler when using the CPU's packaged cooler. The process varies, however, given the different brands and generations. You'll need to refer to the included instructions for specific details. The same is true for third-party coolers, which use a proprietary installation bracket. Following the included instructions is crucial to your PC-building success.

Every cooler needs thermal paste. It's an excellent thermal conductor, allowing heat to transfer from the chip to the cooler with ease. Without it, your cooler won't work very well, if at all. If you aren't sure what type of thermal paste to use, it's well worth doing some research, and we have a list of the best thermal pastes for you to choose from, too.

AMD and Intel apply it to their coolers in the factory, but third-party coolers require manual pasting. Unfortunately, rubbing goo on an expensive CPU isn't as straightforward as it sounds.

When directed by the instructions, simply apply a single silver dot - about the size of a small pea - right in the center of the chip. After squishing the chip and cooler together, try not to wiggle or twist too much, to ensure a smooth, full connection.

For basic heat sinks, you're now finished; just wait for the paste to cure. But the full fan system still needs power. Plug the wires from the fan into a four-pin connection on the motherboard, which should be close to the processor and labeled "CPU_FAN."

Step 6: Install your graphics card

Not every system needs a dedicated graphics card (discrete GPU). If you want a stand-alone chip for graphics, like PC gaming, installation couldn't be simpler. We're also assuming for this step that the card you chose is appropriate for your case size, capabilities, and power supply.

Modern graphics cards use a PCI-Express (PCIe) slot. It's a long, thin connector located on the rear of the motherboard, below the processor. To seat the card in that slot, you'll need to remove a rectangular backplate from your enclosure. It's one of many thin metal brackets lined down the back of the case to keep it sealed up.

You'll need to remove one or two, depending on the card's width. Do this by removing the screw that secures the backplate to the chassis. Once removed, the plate should slide (or fall) out freely. Keep the screw as you'll need it in a moment.

After removing the brackets, make sure the switch on the motherboard's PCIe slot is pushed outward. Then, with the ports facing the empty spot where the backplate used to be, carefully line up the long series of contacts on the card with the appropriate slot on the motherboard. Once it's lined up properly, a solid push on the top of the card should cause it to snap into place as the switch clicks back in to hold it.

You don't need excessive force, but if you encounter a great deal of resistance, take another look at the backplate and PCIe slot to make sure both are clear and the motherboard is properly aligned. Also take note if there is a push-pin that locks the card in like your memory slots, as some motherboards use it as a safety measure.

Use the screws pulled from the metal brackets to fasten the back of the card into the same spot in the case. Again, they don't need to be extremely tight - just enough to hold the card firmly in place.

The connector is designed to prevent improper installation, so if the connection isn't easy, double-check your alignment to make sure it's correct.

Most video cards need extra power apart from what the PCIe slot provides. If your card needs extra juice, you'll see a PCIe power connector on the card's side facing away from the motherboard or, in some cases, on the side facing the front of the case. This connector is a group of square plastic pins numbering six or eight.

The most powerful cards may have two such connectors. Find the appropriate connector on your power supply, typically labeled VGA, and slot it in. The connector's design prevents improper installation, so if the connection isn't easy, double-check your alignment to make sure it's correct.

If you need additional help, we have a detailed guide on how to install a graphics card with additional information.

Step 7: Install any additional expansion cards

Graphics cards aren't the only components that use PCIe slots. Other add-in cards include wireless networking, sound, video capture, and even storage. Their installation is no different than adding a discrete GPU.

First, remove the metal bracket in the back of the case that corresponds with the PCIe or other expansion slot playing host to your add-in card. Keep the bracket screw handy so you can use it to secure your new card.

PCIe slots have a small switch at the interior end, which you push down and outward to open the slot. After that, line up the row of contacts on the card with the slot and firmly push down. Once you properly seat the card, the switch flips up. Securing the card in place is as simple as screwing it into the back of the case and attaching any necessary PCIe ports.

There are a few different types of PCIe slots. Many expansion cards use the "PCIe 4x" slot, which is much shorter than the full PCIe slot used by video cards. A quick check of your motherboard's connectivity, and the size of the connector on your card, will make it obvious which slot is appropriate. If in doubt, refer to the expansion card's manual.

Step 8: Install your storage drives

There are three different storage drive sizes you're likely to encounter, and they all mount and connect differently. Generally, hard disk drives (HDD) are the larger 3.5-inch size, while newer solid-state drives (SSD) adopt the smaller 2.5-inch size. There's also the even smaller M.2 format and PCI-Express drive format, which tend to be thin sticks with bare chips measuring around 1 x 3 inches.

We'll start with 3.5-inch data drives, which are usually mounted up high at the front of the system. Your case is almost guaranteed to have at least one slot dedicated to this drive type. Installation depends on the enclosure, however, as most cases have a simple hard drive cage. Installing a drive means slotting it into a mount on the cage and aligning the screw holes on the drive's sides with those on the cage. Make sure the drive's power and data connectors face inwards, toward the motherboard. Once aligned, screw the drive into place.

Modern cases quite commonly enjoy a "tool-less" installation system. As the term implies, this design should mean it's possible to install the drive without a screwdriver. Usually, this means placing the drive into a cradle or cage that slots into the case. Refer to your enclosure's instructions for specifics, since the technique varies from one brand to the next.

For 2.5-inch drives, the mounting process and location vary. Some cases have a cage, similar to the 3.5-inch mounting, where the SSD can just slide in - no rivets, screws or brackets needed. If it doesn't, the SSD requires an adapter so it can sit securely in a 3.5-inch bay.

You can mount this drive in one of two ways. Either the larger bracket provides holes inside so you can screw the drive into the middle, or the case includes a bracket that adds extra girth to the 2.5-inch drive.

Hard drives require two connections as well: One for power and one for data. The good news is that both are L-shaped, so it's hard to plug them in the wrong slot or the wrong direction.

For those with a newer M.2 drive, you'll want to look for a small slot that matches the width of your stick-shaped drive, and a screw located a few inches away. Remove the screw, insert the contact end into the slot, and then push down gently until you can use the screw to hold the drive in place once.

Finally, you can mount PCI-Express storage drives just like you do with graphics cards in an available PCI-Express slot.

Step 9: Make the final connections

Before you get too excited and hit that power button, it's worth running back through the system to make sure everything is properly seated and connected. Let's start with the components.

The motherboard is usually easy to spot if it isn't plugged in. Most PSUs have one wide cable that's obviously intended for this slot, with no other connections attached. It should plug into your board somewhere near the PCIe slots, but the location will vary.

Your motherboard is also likely to have a second, four-pin (or eight-pin) connector that powers the processor. You may need to look through your power supply's available connectors with a keen eye to find it given it resembles a PCIe power connector. But don't worry - a PCIe connector won't fit, so improper installation isn't possible.

The CPU cooler also needs power, but that flows from the motherboard. Its power cable doesn't need to go far, as most motherboards keep the plug close to the socket. The little wire is just three or four sockets and connects to a set of four pins on the motherboard.

The hard drives need power too in the form of L-shaped SATA connectors (unless it's a PCIe drive). Typically, a string of three or four lines run straight from the power supply using unique connectors. You can't install them the wrong way, either.

Finally, high-powered graphics cards need dedicated power connections, usually in the form of a black rectangular connector with six or eight pins. These plugs are brightly colored and easy to spot and only fit in the interior end of the card in one orientation. If they aren't plugged in, the fans on the card won't spin, and it won't produce any video output.

Step 10: Power on

Now that you've double-checked everything, switch on the power supply and press the power button on the front. A lot of systems don't boot correctly the first time, so don't get discouraged if you need to go back and check connections again.

Once it does boot, you'll need to install an operating system (OS). Luckily, we've built a handy guide that clearly walks you through the process. If you don't have another PC around to download the ISO, you can purchase a USB thumb drive from Microsoft with the OS image ready to go.

After that, you may need to install drivers. Windows 10 already supports modern chipsets and automatically downloads and installs the remaining drivers in most cases. Check the Update & Security menu in the Settings pane for more information regarding this process.

If that doesn't work, the chipset driver for your motherboard will handle most connectivity and onboard features, though this varies greatly based on motherboard and component manufacturers. Remember to check component boxes for install discs and other information before throwing them out with the trash.

Typically, only discrete graphics cards require you to manually download and install the latest driver. Check out the AMD page for Radeon drivers or the Nvidia page for GeForce drivers.

With some luck and a lot of attention to detail, you should have a fully operational system. Make sure to keep an eye out for any error messages, and hold your hand outside the case fans to make sure air flows and isn't too hot - at least for a few weeks.

If something breaks or needs an upgrade, you're fully equipped to deal with it. Just watch out for static.

Editors' Recommendations

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How to Build a Computer | Digital Trends

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While it can feel daunting to build a PC, the ability to choose your own components is more than worth the time investment. Because building a computer is potentially overwhelming, we've crafted a step-by-step guide to help you through the process.

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Buying a new laptop or desktop PC can be quite confusing. Many people find it difficult to compare prices, features, processor types,etc to find the right choice in accordance with their requirements. In this post we will tell you the top 10 things to consider before buying a PC.
10. Usability
It is important that you first consider the tasks that you will be performing on your PC. If you wish to buy a computer for simply browsing the internet and using some online services than it might be better to buy a single core computer which satisfies your minimum requirements. On the contrary if you require using it for heavy video editing and professional work, then it might be better to buy a system that has enhanced multimedia options.
9. Price
This brings us to our next consideration of price. There might be some very fancy features that you want in your new PC. However, if you don't have the cash to pay for lets say a graphic card with 1GB memory, than you might be better off choosing suitable alternatives.
8. Operating System Type.
Users with minimum requirements may be better off buying a Windows Starter or Home Premium version e.g. of Windows 7. For users who wish to take advantage of more enhanced features and require more effective tools such as connecting their PC to a domain are naturally better off buying a Professional or Ultimate Edition. Having said that the cost of a Windows 7 Ultimate Edition can be as much as 219$.
7. Size
Some people prefer buying larger laptops for a better display screen, whereas other prefer smaller and more portable sizes. If you are setting up a server which will be placed in a server room then size considerations will not mater much as large servers with multiple SCSI drives are normally quite big. Whereas, for people with weak eye sights a laptop with a larger display screen might be worth the price.
6. Peripherals
Peripheral devices such as printers,scanners,etc can significantly increase or reduce your price for buying a new PC. It might be better off buying a system with a DVD combo drive if you do not require writing data to DVDs.
5. Brand
Some brands offer better warrantees, whereas others offer software packages that come with the system. For example, a Dell laptop with the same specifications may be cheaper than a Sony Vio. The reason is that Sony provides many of its own softwares with their laptops which saves the users cost for buying software, e.g. a DVD burning. However, if you already have many such licensed or freeware software available, then it might be better to go for a cheaper brands. Acer for instance is known for its low cost laptops that provide more enhanced spcs like hard disk space and RAM as compared to its competitors.
4. Hard Disk
Hard Disk considerations might not mean much to a lay user, nonetheless, having the right amount of disk space and disk type might be the necessary for the efficient management of regular tasks for a professional. A common user may merely have to decide between buying a 120GB or 320 GB hard disk system. An IT professional on the contrary might have to decide between a SCSI or a Sata drive. As a scuzzy or SCSI(Small Computer System Interface) drive might be required for Raid configurations.
3. RAM
It is obvious that for more professional tasks and to run a Xeon Server there will be more RAM required than for merely using a PC for browsing the internet. Moreover, the RAM type may matter more than many people might consider. For example, there are not many applications currently available that can take advantage of DDR3 RAM types, one may be better of saving some dimes by buying a system with a DDR2 RAM.
2. Processor
The Processor is one of the most important parts of a system and can mean the difference between a system that frequently hangs and the one that runs smoothly. Some people might think that going for the low cost single core or Dual Core processors is a good idea but I would not recommend either of them for anyone who requires using a system for more than basic usage. Moreover, one might be better off buying a Corei3 system instead of a Core2Duo as the later might be more expensive and less efficient than the former. A Corei3 can cost up to 113$ whereas, a Core2Duo can cost 130$. For more demanding professionals, it might be better idea to buy a corei5 (if not a Core i7), as the core i5 uses Turbo Boost technology other than Hyper Threading.
1. Warranty
Warranty makes up the most important consideration for people when buying a system. Having one covered with the right kind of hardware warrantee is essential and should be unconditional. I still remember when Sony had to recall several Laptops due to a battery fault because of which their Laptops caught fire. I'm sure none of us would like to have a Laptop that we can fry omelets on without the guarantee of replacement.

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10 Things To Consider When Buying A Computer

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Buying a new laptop or desktop PC can be quite confusing. Many people find it difficult to compare prices, features, processor types,etc to find the right choice in accordance with their requirements. In this post we will tell you the top 10 things to consider before buying a PC. 10.

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Desktops no longer make up the bulk of new PC purchases, but many people still like the idea of a fixed system. Here's some advice on finding the right system.

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Types and features

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Shopping for a computer? Read about types, features, and other must-know topics in our computer buying guide to make an informed choice.