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Retailers are cancelling orders "across the board" to tackle the ongoing Covid-19 coronavirus outbreak, which is putting pressure on suppliers' cash flow.

Earlier today, Drapers revealed that Monsoon Accessorize, Debenhams and M&Co have extended their supplier payment terms effective immediately.

One high street supplier said: "The extension of payment terms, cancellations and indefinite rephasing of stock will of course put massive pressure on cashflow and will ultimately involve businesses and factories not being able to survive the financial stress of this and going bust."

Earlier this week the government announced a year-long business rates holiday to help mitigate the economic impact of the virus, as well as £330bn of government-backed loans and guarantees for UK businesses. However, at the time, some retailers warned these measures were not enough to ensure businesses survive the pandemic.

"I believe this [cancellations] is exactly what the government didn't want to happen with the announcement of the £330bn bailout on Tuesday, but retailers are seeing customer footfall vanish and are making in some cases knee jerk decisions," said the high street supplier.

"Realistically we are only two weeks into the coronavirus pandemic in the UK, so I dread to think what will happen if or more likely when a full quarantine will be enforced."

Another supplier to multiples said: "There's cancellations and rescheduling across the board. From indies right through to online. And the problem is that it's all happening so quickly, so our position remains unclear.

"It's horrific. It's hitting the entire supply chain. There is not one single customer or company that is not being directly affected in fashion. I only hope and pray that good sense prevails and that drip drip drip of liquidity across that chain is maintained."

A high street supplier with Chinese-based warehouses added: "We spent last week renegotiating all the deliveries with people here because China has started work and now we're changing it all here because they don't want the goods [in the same volume or at this time].

"The world of retailers is moving stock and cancelling. So, the factories that have started [back up again] in China are now slowing right down."

Another supplier said: "A couple of [retailers] have said this is the final straw and have literally turned their businesses off. We've also had some that have said please don't deliver any more stock to me, anything that is outstanding please cancel because I don't have space for it.

"And then we've had a couple that have asked us to cancel or delay their autumn deliveries because they have so much spring stock they need to clear before than can take anything else in."

However, one supplier reported he had not had any cancellations so far, but instead said buyers were "waiting to see" what happens.

"I've had a couple of appointments cancelled but I'm still getting the information from the buyers by email," said the supplier. "The situation will keep changing, I'm sure."

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Retailers are cancelling orders "across the board" to tackle the ongoing Covid-19 coronavirus outbreak, which is putting pressure on suppliers' cash flow. Earlier today, Drapers revealed that Monsoon Accessorize, Debenhams and M&Co have extended their supplier payment terms effective immediately.

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Sustainability in fashion retail is gradually becoming one of the industry's top priorities. With apparel contributing to around 10% of all greenhouse gas emissions, consumer attitudes towards brands are increasingly being influenced by their efforts towards sustainability. This is, in turn, causing many retailers to look to improve their environmental records and explore new strategies to do so. In this article we'll explore exactly what that looks like for the industry, and how RFID (Radio Frequency Identification) can be leveraged to help with this, particularly to improve traceability of items.

Sustainable retail is the priority for more and more consumers

Sustainability in Fashion has been a concern for some time but in recent years consumers, particularly younger generations, who are increasingly concerned with the sustainability of their clothes are forcing major change in the industry. According to the McKinsey apparel CPO survey, there has been a 500% increase in the number of sustainable fashion products launched over the past two years.

This proves that the industry is beginning to move in the right direction, but there is still a long way to go. A report by environmental agency Stand.earth claims that only two major brands are delivering on their commitments to reduce emissions, American Eagle and Levi Strauss, who came out on top of the recent report card.

What does sustainable retail mean for the fashion industry?

So, if most of the work is yet to be done to improve sustainability in fashion retail then which areas should retailers focus on? Whilst key areas like sustainable materials and practises will be crucial, retailers will need to make improvements in several different areas in order to improve the footprint of their businesses. Edwin Keh, CEO of the Hong Kong Research Institute of Textiles and Apparel argues that "There is no silver bullet; rather, there will be a combination of a lot of small innovations and a few radical changes." In the figure below, from the McKinsey survey, we can see the truth in this, as brands are focusing on a variety of methods to reduce their environmental footprint.

RFID and Sustainable Fashion Retail

So, what part can RFID play in all this? There are three key ways retailers can improve sustainability with the help of RFID:

Produce less through leaner inventories

Consumer transparency with item-level traceability through supply chain

Digitise the emerging 'fashion rental' market

The most obvious solution for fashion is to produce less merchandise and prevent wastage of resources. By implementing an RFID inventory system, retailers can have on average 10-15% less inventory in stores, due to the increased stock accuracy and the ability to leverage their stock more efficiently.

Another way brands can use RFID to improve sustainability is to utilise the item-level traceability that RFID tags can provide. As far as sustainability initiatives go, this is a fairly customer-facing use, as brands can leverage the additional data stored within RFID tags to provide transparency about where their products are sourced. Often this will be displayed through customer-facing applications such as the brand app and/or NFC (Near Field Communication) initiatives.

This use case is already being implemented by some retailers, and the majority of RFID-enabled brands seem likely to employ it in the years to come. In the McKinsey survey, 65% of surveyed sourcing executives expect to achieve full traceability from fibre to store by 2025, and the majority of brands plan to use RFID to do so:

The other big impact RFID looks set to make on the fashion sector is in new markets that are only beginning to emerge on to the world stage:

The second-hand clothing market may not be second best for much longer

Due to the large increase in consumer interest in sustainability in fashion retail, something of a sub-industry has developed in the second-hand clothing market in recent years. This is no longer just traditional second-hand clothing outlets such as eBay and charity stores, but also brands that actively trade in used clothing. Chris Homer, CTO of online clothing marketplace ThredUp, says its research found the size of the second-hand clothing market has doubled to $24 billion in the US over the past 10 years, and he predicts the market will overtake fast fashion sales within the next 5-10 years. It isn't just disruptor brands who are looking towards second-hand clothing, as British retail giant John Lewis recently launched a 'buyback' scheme with 20,000 customers to help combat clothing waste.

Could the growing rental-clothing industry be the green alternative to fast fashion?

The other subset of fashion retail that is growing out of sustainability concerns is the rental clothing market. This allows consumers to have access to the same variety and turn-over of clothing that they could have with fast-fashion, but without the waste of resources and impact on the environment. Much like the second-hand market bigger brands are also looking to get involved here, with the international apparel brand H&M having very recently announced a trial of a rental service in their flagship store in Stockholm.

New markets = New challenges

Both of these emerging sustainable apparel markets are yet to truly find their feet, and time will tell how sustainable they are as business models. One of the main challenges we see for such markets is the traceability of items and combating counterfeit returns and losses. In both second hand and rental fashion models, you will be dealing with far more individual and one-off items than in typical fashion retail. As such, keeping track of individual items will be vital, but more challenging than normal. In such models, items will be moving in and out of the store in both directions rather than predominately in one. Strong inventory management will, therefore, be imperative for these businesses to succeed.

Could RFID be the backbone of the emerging used clothing & rental fashion industries?

It seems RFID could be the perfect technology to build these new sub-industries around, as an RFID system would be able to deliver the perfect conditions for second hand and rental businesses to thrive. With each item having a completely unique ID, retailers would know exactly what they have available, and exactly what they have out with which customer (in the case of rental). As RFID tags are unique and can't be forged or copied, retailers could offer these services with full confidence that the right product is being returned, eliminating the possibility of any new illicit markets forming.

Finally, using the real-time digital view of inventory created by an RFID system, second-hand and rental retailers would be able to show exactly what products they have available online making items available to click-and-collect or order online. Without such systems, these new models might struggle to have a digital presence, which would limit their reach and ultimately their success.

Detego develops and delivers a cloud-hosted software platform for retailers, providing real-time inventory visibility, superior process efficiency, omnichannel services and AI powered analytics. Purpose-built with flexibility and user experience in mind, retailers can utilise Detego's software and industry expertise to unlock the power of RFID, from the factory through to the store.'

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SUSTAINABILITY IN FASHION RETAIL | Modern Retail

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Sustainability in fashion retail is gradually becoming one of the industry's top priorities. With apparel contributing to around 10% of all greenhouse gas emissions, consumer attitudes towards brands are increasingly being influenced by their efforts towards sustainability. This is, in turn, causing many retailers to look to improve their environmental records and explore new strategies to do so.

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JD Sports [24 April]: To help cut costs, the group's board and senior management team have agreed to voluntary salary reductions of at least 25% for the current period of disruption. Peter Cowgill, executive chairman, volunteered for a salary reduction of 75%.

Burberry [24 April]: Luxury brand Burberry says it has donated more than 100,000 pieces of PPE to date, after it transformed its trench coat factory in Castleford to manufacture the equipment for medical and care workers.

Marks & Spencer [24 April]: The retailer has committed to paying it's clothing suppliers for the "vast majority" of orders.

Cath Kidston [23 April]: The retailer has agreed to pay three weeks of wages owed to staff who were made redundant when the business went into administration less than a week before pay day.

LK Bennett [23 April]: LK Bennett administrators have extended the company's administration process for a further year, due to "property matters" and other remaining work that needs to be completed.

Studio Retail Group [23 April]: Online retail business Studio Retail Group, formerly called Findel, has accessed various credit facilities in a bid to protect the business amid the coronavirus.

Animal [23 April]: Surf-inspired fashion retailer Animal will reportedly cease to operate by next year, marking the latest blow to the sector amid the coronavirus crisis.

Primark [22 April]: Primark has endorsed the UN International Labour Organisation's (ILO) calls for urgent support of global garment industry workers affected by coronavirus.

Laura Ashley [22 April]: Global advisory, restructuring and investment firm Gordon Brothers has rescued Laura Ashley from administration.

Boohoo Group [22 April]: Revenue and profits soared at Boohoo Group in the year to 29 February 2020, and the fast fashion giant said a strong balance sheet will help it weather the coronavirus pandemic.

Wolverine Worldwide [22 April]: US footwear group Wolverine World Wide has restructured its executive team, to help make the company "more nimble" during this period of economic disruption.

Harrogate Fashion Week [22 April]: The July edition of Harrogate Fashion Week is still expected to go ahead, despite ongoing coronavirus concerns.

Primark [22 April]: Primark will remain a bricks-and-mortar-only retailer despite the temporary shutdown of its entire global store portfolio due to coronavirus restrictions, John Bason, chief financial officer at the retailer's owner, Associated British Foods, has told Drapers.

Mango [21 April]: Mango's retail stores across mainland Europe are poised to reopen as countries begin to relax their lockdown restrictions. Over 600 stores are expected to be open by the end of April.

John Lewis [21 April]: Online sales at John Lewis have g rown 84% year on year between the middle of March and 15 April, amid the coronavirus outbreak.

Cath Kidston [21 April]: The retailer's owner has bought the online, franchise and wholesale business of the brand, leaving its store estate facing permanent closure.

Joules [21 April]: Lifestyle retailer Joules has confirmed the successful completion of a £15m increase to its revolving credit facility (RCF), with Barclays Bank.

Primark [21 April]: Sales at Primark grew 2.2% for the 24 weeks to 29 February 2020, however the value retailer's parent company Associated British Foods warned trading in the second half of the year would be "radically different" as a result of the coronavirus crisis.

French Connection [21 April]: The retailer has appointed wealth management and brokerage firm WH Ireland as its financial adviser and sole broker.

Vestiaire Collective [21 April]: Resale giant Vestiaire Collective has secured €59 million (£51m) in funding to help expand into Japan and Korea and develop its US shipping services.

Primark [20 April]: Primark has committed to paying for all product that was in production, finished and planned for handover by 17 April. This is an additional £370m of product, over the £1.5bn of stock already in stores, depot and transit.

Bonmarché [17 April]: EWM Group is including a pandemic clause into new leases for Bonmarché stores, having rescued the retailer from administration.

LVMH [17 April]: LVMH's fashion and leather goods division recorded a 14% drop in revenues to €4.6bn (£3.9bn) for the first quarter of 2020.

River Island [16 April]: River Island has announced that it has today started despatching online orders again, after temporarily closing operations amid the coronavirus.

Harpenne [16 April]: River Island Holdings-owned Harpenne has decidedly to permanently cease trading.

Next [14 April]: The retailer has re-opened its online operations after closing its distribution centre for more than two weeks due to the ongoing coronavirus crisis. It reached its new self-imposed daily order limit by 8.30am.

John Lewis [14 April]: The department store has introduced virtual services including one-on-one personal styling video sessions.

Moss Bros [14 April]: Moss Bros has delayed the publication of its full-year results from late May until late July under the new temporary relief measures issued by the government.

Debenhams [9 April]: The struggling department store chain has appointed FRP Advisory as administrators.

Arcadia Group [9 April]: Arcadia is seeking to borrow up to £50m against its distribution centre.

Westfield [8 April]: Bosses at shopping centre owner Unibail-Rodamco-Westfield (URW) will donate 25% of their pay to help support the fight against Covid-19.

H&M group [8 April]: H&M Group has signed a new 12-month revolving credit facility of €980 (£862m) to strengthen its financial position through the coronavirus crisis.

Asos [7 April]: Asos group sales dropped 20%-25% amid the coronavirus pandemic, after it achieved record interim profits. Asos said it is finalising discussions to secure a £60m to £80m 12-month extension to its RCF with covenant adjustments to ensure additional operational flexibility through the crisis.

Primark [6 April]: The retailer has introduced a temporary 20% reduction in pay for senior executives, and a temporary 10% reduction for the remainder of employees across its headquarters and office functions for the coming 12 weeks.

Reiss [6 April]: Reiss made the decision to close all of its stores in the UK, Republic of Ireland, US & Canada on the 20 March, immediately furloughing all of its retail team. From 1 April, 50% of the head office team have now also been furloughed, Drapers can reveal.

Debenhams [6 April]: Department store Debenhams has today filed a notice to appoint administrators.

TK Maxx [6 April]: TK Maxx has extended payment terms by 90 days.

Cath Kidston [5 April]: Cath Kidston has filed notice that it will appoint administrators amid the coronavirus outbreak, putting around 950 jobs at risk.

Schuh [3 April]: The footwear retailer reopened its website after temporarily shutting on 26 March.

Ted Baker [3 April]: Ted Baker has furloughed around 2,000 employees, including head office staff.

New Look [3 April]: New Look has written to suppliers to inform them it will be cancelling all orders and pushing back payment terms "indefinitely".

Shoe Zone [3 April]: Footwear retailer Shoe Zone has announced plans to cancel dividend payments.

Lululemon [3 April]: Canadian activewear giant Lululemon has cut senior leadership team salaries by 20% for the next three months, while its board of directors will "forgo their cash retainer".

Debenhams [3 April]: Debenhams is preparing to file a notice of intention to appoint administrators as early as next week, as it continues to struggle amid the coronavirus outbreak.

Primark [3 April]: Top bosses at Primark owner Associated British Foods (ABF) will temporarily cut their salaries by 50%, and will not receive dividends for the current financial year.

Arcadia Group [2 April]: Arcadia Group has furloughed nearly all head office employees across the group, and the board and senior leadership team will take a salary reduction of between 25%-50% amid the coronavirus crisis.

Splash Paris [2 April]: The organisers of Splash Paris have been forced to postpone the premium resortwear trade show, as a result of the coronavirus outbreak.

Asos [2 April]: Etailer Asos has informed almost all employees on fixed-term contracts that it will be ending their agreements early, as a result of the coronavirus outbreak.

Next [2 April]: Next is seeking buyers for its headquarters and three warehouses as part of a mitigation strategy to shore up its balance sheet against the effects of a fall in trade.

UK businesses [2 April]: Nearly half of all UK businesses (44%) will furlough at least half of their workforce over the next week, The British Chambers of Commerce (BCC) have warned. Meanwhile, chancellor Rishi Sunak is reportedly preparing to overhaul the emergency aid scheme for small and medium-sized businesses (SMEs), to help prevent a deluge of coronavirus-related insolvencies.

JD Williams [2 April]: N Brown Group brand JD Williams has cancelled spring 20 orders with some suppliers as the coronavirus epidemic continues to affect the retail industry.

JD Sports [1 April]: JD Sports has witheld rent and service charges for the quarter, amid warnings that the coronavirus crisis will have a "significant impact" on its outlook.

Asos [1 April]: Asos has denied claims from union GMB that its warehouse in Grimethorpe, Barnsley, is unsafe for workers under new coronavirus public health guidelines.

Marks & Spencer [1 April]: Marks & Spencer has offered its frontline team "an additional 15% additional pay reward", and confirmed furloughed colleagues will receive full pay to protect them financially from the coronavirus outbreak.

Next [1 April]: Credit rating agency Moody's has downgraded Next's status from stable to under review as there is "no certainty at this stage as to how long store closures persist."

Anthropologie [1 April]: URBN, the owner of Anthropologie and Urban Outfitters has taken a number of steps to protect its cash reserves, including borrowing £177m and suspending hiring and bonuses.

Moda [31 March]: UK footwear trade show Moda has pushed back the date for the spring season show to September, in response to the rapid spread of Covid-19.

Debenhams [31 March]: Debenhams is deferring all historic concession balances for 30 days, in a bid to mitigate the government's "mandated" shut down of its store estate.

Matalan [31 March]: Matalan has offered all warehouse workers the option to be placed on furlough, after coming under fire for its health and safety conditions amid the ongoing coronavirus pandemic.

Monsoon [31 March]: Monsoon Accessorize is considering a sale of the business as a result of the impact of the Covid-19 coronavirus outbreak.

Zalando [31 March]: Zalando has warned revenue and gross merchandise value growth in the first quarter will fall below analyst's expectations as consumers rein in spending during the coronavirus pandemic.

Oasis and Warehouse Group [31 March]: The Oasis and Warehouse Group has informed suppliers that it will be delaying payment terms, in an attempt to protect the business during the coronavirus outbreak.

Retail Trust [30 March]: Retail Trust, the British Retail Consortium (BRC) and Retail Week and World Retail Congress (RWRC) and have joined forces to raise £10m for retail colleagues who are facing financial distress as a result of the Covid-19 pandemic.

Hammerson [30 March]: As of the end of last week, shopping centre owner Hammerson received 37% of UK rent billed for the second quarter ending 25 March.

Men's Fashion Weeks [30 March]: Men's summer fashion weeks in Paris, Milan and London have been cancelled or postponed due to the ongoing social distancing measures enforced across Europe in an attempt to quell the spread of coronavirus.

Save the High Street [30 March]: Campaign group Save The High Street has l aunched a 12-week Covid-19 support programme, designed to help local businesses survive the ongoing health and economic crisis.

Mothercare [30 March]: Mothercare has announced there has "inevitably been some delays" with its UK franchise deal with Boots due to coronavirus.

Urban Outfitters [30 March]: Urban Outfitters has written to suppliers informing them that it can no longer accept delivery of goods on purchase orders, and will cancel all undelivered orders, in a bid to protect the business during the coronavirus outbreak.

Zalando [30 March]: Zalando is keeping its warehouse and distribution centres open through the coronavirus crisis, while adhering to new government guidelines.

Arcadia Group [30 March]: Sir Philip Green's Arcadia Group has written to suppliers to inform them that it will be cancelling all orders and extending payment terms, in a bid to protect the business during the coronavirus outbreak. It is also planning to defer a series of contributions into its pension scheme in a bid to conserve cash through the coronavirus crisis.

Footasylum [27 March]: Footasylum has approached landlords to request a three-month rent holiday for the third quarter from 25 June.

Net-a-porter [27 March]: The online retailer has halted online trading.

TK Maxx [27 March]: TK Maxx has suspended all online orders.

BFC [27 March]: The British Fashion Council has announced £1m in support to help fashion businesses survive the Covid-19 coronavirus outbreak. Applications from womenswear, menswear and accessories businesses are open until 10 April.

Next [27 March]: Next has announced the temporary closure of its website, warehouse and distribution operations.

The Outnet [27 March]: The luxury online retailer has announced the temporary closure of its warehouses.

Jack Wills [26 March]: Frasers Group has announced the immediate closure of a further 17 Jack Wills stores, bringing the total number of store closures announced over the last week to 22.

River Island [26 March]: River Island has announced that it will be temporarily closing its distribution centre in Milton Keynes, as a result of the coronavirus outbreak.

Moss Bros [26 March]: The menswear retailer has temporarily ceased trading online as a safety precaution to staff. It had shut its 128 stores on Friday 20th March.

Primark [25 March]: Primark is withholding quarterly rent payments, due today, on its leasehold properties in the UK in a bid to prompt "urgent" conversations with landlords over ongoing rental terms.

Asos [25 March]: Asos has paused several incoming deliveries from suppliers and third-party brands as it makes adjustments to manage its stock throughout the coronavirus uncertainty.

Arcadia Group [25 March]: Arcadia Group has written to employees on fixed-term contracts to inform them that it will be ending their agreements early.

Matalan [25 March]: Matalan has asked landlords for a three-month rent break to mitigate the economic impact of coronavirus.

Fenwick [25 March]: Department store chain Fenwick is temporarily halting its online operation, as orders are picked in its stores.

Kingpins [25 March]: Denim trade show Kingpins Amsterdam has announced it is going online, after it cancelled its next edition in April amid health concerns and travel restrictions linked to the Covid-19 coronavirus.

Intu [25 March]: Shopping centre owner Intu is set to slash service charges for tenants in the second half of 2020, to help ease the burden on retailers during the coronavirus pandemic.

Cadogan [25 March]: Chelsea and Kensington landlord Cadogan has deferred rent payments over the next three months for its smaller retail businesses. It has also donated £50,000 to the Kensington and Chelsea Foundation which raises funds for local projects to support vulnerable residents.

New Look [24 March]: New Look has requested a three-month rent holiday from landlords, alongside other immediate actions to mitigate the economic impact of coronavirus.

Oasis and Warehouse [24 March]: The Oasis and Warehouse Group has appointed "Big Four" auditor Deloitte to help conduct a potential sale of the business, amid the coronavirus outbreak.

Frasers Group [24 March]: Frasers Group has U-turned on an announcement that Sports Direct and Evans Cycles stores were to stay open during the UK's new lockdown measures, and will now not open stores until it receives the "go-ahead" from the government.

Mulberry [24 March]: British luxury brand Mulberry has become the latest brand to warn on the impact of the coronavirus outbreak, announcing that it anticipates making a small loss in the second half of the year ending 28 March 2020.

All fashion stores to close [23 March]: Prime minister Boris Johnson has ordered the immediate closure of all fashion retailers as part of new measures to limit the spread of coronavirus.

Next [23 March]: Next is the latest retailer to temporarily close all of its stores until further notice, as a result of the coronavirus. The stores will be closed from 6pm on Monday 23 March.

Debenhams [23 March]: The department store chain has temporarily closed all of its UK and Republic of Ireland stores. It comes as the company continues to engage with landlords asking them to consider further rent cuts and store closures as part of its ongoing company voluntary arrangement (CVA),

Frasers Group [23 March]: The Mike Ashley-owned group has suspended its share buyback scheme with immediate effect.

John Smedley [23 March]: As of today, John Smedley has closed its three London stores on Jermyn Street, Brook Street and New Cavendish Street. The decision to re-open will be reassessed daily.

Crew Clothing [22 March]: Crew has closed all of its 82 stores in the UK until it is safe to reopen them. The brand, however, will accept returns on purchases made before the closures when their stores re-open.

Primark [22 March]: On Sunday of all stores in the UK which represented 41% of sales, all 376 stores in 12 countries are now closed until further notice. This represents a loss of some £650m of net sales per month.

Kurt Geiger [21 March]: Its 55 shoe store across the UK and Ireland stopped trading on Saturday.

New Look [21 March]: New Look has made the decision to temporarily close all of its 480 stores in the UK from 5:00pm today. All the 28 stores in the Republic of Ireland were temporarily closed from 5:00pm on Friday 20 March. Newlook.com is open as usual and deliveries and Collect+ locations remain available. The company has offered its 13,000-strong workforce the option of unpaid voluntary leave, voluntary reduced hours or the chance to use their holiday allowance for the foreseeable future. Drapers can reveal that it has also halted production.

River Island [21 March]: All of its clothing stores across the UK and Ireland are closed until further notice.

John Lewis [21 March]: The John Lewis Partnership has announced that it will temporarily close all of its 50 stores on Monday 23 March for the first time in its 155-year history, as a result of the coronavirus.

H&M Group [21 March]: The group has today decided to temporarily close its stores across the UK. The retailer is currently offering standard delivery and free and flexible returns on all hm.com orders. The returns policy has been extended to 100 days.

Hobbs [21 March]: The womenswear retailer has closed all of its stores from today, until further notice. Shoppers can still order products on the website.

& Other Stories [21 March]: As of today, the company has decided to close all UK stores. Store staff will receive a further two weeks of pay and benefits. The online store will continue as usual, with an extended return policy of 100 days.

Gant [21 March]: From today Gant has closed its stores in the UK until further notice. The online store remains open and is offering free delivery and returns. The return period has been extended to 60 days.

Edinburgh Woollen Mill Group [20 March]: Around 100 employees across the head office and business functions, including those who had received job offers at the company, have been let go. The company has also introduced a temporary ban on further recruitment. Elsewhere, EWM Group has also warned remaining staff that it could reduce salaries by up to 50% for over the coming weeks.Meanwhile, the retailer will close stores from Sunday 22 March until further notice.

Adidas [20 March]: The sportswear retailer has closed all its stores through March. Customers can still purchase products on the website and via the app.

Mint Velvet [20 March]: All of its stores inside the M25 are closed until Easter. All of the other stores will close tomorrow evening until Easter.

Graduate Fashion Week [20 March]: Following a trustee meeting today, where the options of postponement, curtailment, event redesign and a combination of all of the above were discussed and based on the evolving guidance from the World Health Organisation, national government and health agencies, organisers have decided that the GFW event "could not possibly go ahead". It will be launching a series of activities to showcase students' work, with more information on this to follow.

The White Company [20 March]: The retailer has decided to temporarily close all The White Company stores from the end-of-day Saturday 21st March.The online store will remain open. The company has its own warehouse in Northampton, and it has put in place strict safety measures to ensure that the team stay safe at work.

Clarks [20 March]: Clarks has temporarily closed its stores in the UK and US. All of its store employees will receive pay and benefits during this time. Customers can continue to shop online.

Charles Tyrwhitt [20 March]: Menswear retailer Charles Tyrwhitt has temporarily closed its 12 USA stores and 29 UK stores. It's ecommerce site remains open.

Arcadia [20 March]: Arcadia has closed all stores across the UK and Ireland. A spokesman for the fashion retail group, which owns chains including Topshop, Topman, Miss Selfridge, Dorothy Perkins, Evans and Burton, said store staff "have not been made redundant", but the business said it would continue to "review the situation". It stated that all store staff will be paid their normal pay for March plus any outstanding overtime payments.

Gap [20 March]: Starting tomorrow, Gap will be closing all UK stores for the next two weeks. It said it will ensure that impacted employees are supported with continued pay during this time.

Ted Baker [20 March]: The retailer has only closed some stores but says that more will follow "inevitably." It stated that trading hours have been adapted, it has increased hygiene precautions and has switched to cashless payment systems to avoid contamination. The returns policy has been increased from 14 to 40 days and has stopped Click and Collect options.

Harrods [20 March]: The luxury department store will close at 7pm on Friday 20 March, with its Food Halls and pharmacy left open. Its website will stay operational.

River Island [20 March]: River Island is closing stores but offering free home delivery and Click and Collect to local parcel shops on orders over £40, with a £1 fee for those under.

Prada [20 March]: Italian luxury giant Prada Group has warned that the coronavirus outbreak has "interrupted" growth.

H&M [19 March]: H&M has extended its returns policy from 28 days to 100 days both in store and online. Stores in the UK are not yet closed, but the retailer has announced closures in the US, Canada and Germany. The H&M Foundation has donated $500,000 to the World Health Organization.

Dune [19 March]: The footwear retailer has closed all stores until further notice, announcing in a statement on Instagram: "We must pull together and act responsibly if we are to navigate the coming weeks and months effectively."

Warehouse [19 March]: Warehouse stores will close from the end of the day on Friday 20 March. The website remains open and Warehouse has updated delivery options to offer contact-free delivery to those self-isolating. Head office staff at the womenswear retailer are working remotely.

Marks & Spencer [19 March]: M&S has introduced dedicated shopping hours for NHS workers and vulnerable shoppers. It will reserve the first hour of trading for them at all of its owned stores. The first will take place tomorrow on Friday 20 March, and after this, on every Monday and Thursday. In addition, M&S is also introducing a special shopping hour to support NHS and emergency service workers - and this will take place for the first hour each Tuesday and Friday morning.

Timberland [19 March]: The retailer has made the decision to temporarily close all of its stores. In the meantime, customers can shop online with free shipping.

Reiss [19 March]: The premium retailer will close its stores across the UK and Republic of Ireland from Friday 20 March until the end of March, with a view to extending or reducing this timeframe in accordance with advice from health authorities. The website will continue to operate with the brand saying that precuationary measures have been put in place in its warehouses.

Dover Street Market [19 March]: Dover Street Market has closed temporarily with the view to re-open on 28 March if it is safe to do so. The businesses online store remains open and is delivering orders as usual.

Next [19 March]: Next has implemented a stress test for if its sales dip below £1bn amid the coronavirus outbreak. The retailer said it has "reasonable expectation" that the group has adequate resources to continue its operations for the foreseeable future. Lord Wolfson has also outlined a business continuity plan.

Fenwick [19 March]: The department store chain has announced the closure of all of its stores from 6pm on 19 March until further notice. The company said it will continue to run its digital and social channels, including its online store, "for as long as it can".

Joules [19 March]: Joules has said it is taking "prudent" actions to manage the near term challenges whilst ensuring the business remains well positioned to deliver its long term growth plans. These actions include removing cost and non-critical capex from the business. It has also decided to cancel the proposed interim dividend, saving £0.7m of cash.

Burberry [19 March]: Burberry's chief executive Marco Gobbetti has warned the material negative effect of Covid-19 on luxury demand has "intensified", forcing more global store closures. Burberry is now implementing mitigating actions to contain costs and protect its financial position, including renegotiating rents, restricting travel and reducing discretionary spending.

Brown Thomas [18 March]: The company has taken the decision to close all of its Brown Thomas and BT2 stores in Dublin, Cork, Limerick, and Galway from 5pm on 18 March. It remains operational at Brownthomas.com and via its app.

House of CB [18 March]: The company has announced that it will be closing stores from 19 March to 2 April. Its staff will be paid during this time, and it is still working as normal from HouseofCB.com.

John Lewis [18 March]: All shops remain open and the company said it "currently has no plans to close any". At the moment stores are operating their normal opening hours, but this may be subject to change. Currently all click & collect locations are open, and customers can make online deliveries.

Beales [18 March]: The department store has accelerated the permanent closure of all of its 23 stores by two weeks to 19 March. Beales collapsed into administration in January and announced the closure of all of its stores last month.

Department store Selfridges announced the closure of its UK stores from 7pm on Wednesday 18 March due to the spread of coronavirus. It had previously reduced opening hours across the branches in London, Birmingham and Manchester.

Grenson Shoes [17 March]: Has decided to reduce prices by 20% at grenson.com for the next two weeks to keep things moving. This is the brand's first ever mid-season sale. The company is monitoring UK Government advice on a daily basis and will change its policy very quickly where required. For the time being stores remain open on reduced hours: 11am - 4pm.

Columbia Sportswear [17 March]: The retailer has temporarily closed all Columbia-owned and operated European retail stores until further notice.

Bicester Village [17 March]: Bicester Village has closed stores across the outlet centre, including New Balance, Lululemon, Ugg and Timberland.

Nasty Gal [17 March]: The etailer announced that it is running operations as usual.

Hobbs [17 March]: Hobbs stores are currently open, but the retailer will not be holding any in-store events.

The retailer has closed all of its UK stores for the next two weeks [from 17 March]. Sweaty Betty 's online store will remain open, with customers now offered free delivery on all orders. The business has assured that store teams will be given paid time off during this period.

The company's South Kensington, London store will close at the end of this week. Styling and wardrobe-uploading appointments will be made online.

Debenhams has asked landlords for a five-month rent holiday, starting immediately [17 March], as it struggles to deal with the disruption caused by the coronavirus outbreak.

H&M group is temporarily closing all of its stores in Germany from 18 March. In addition, the group is also closing all its stores for two weeks in the US, Canada, Portugal and Belgium from 17 March. It has also asked landlords for rent relief during this "extraordinary period" to manage the disruption of Covid-19 coronavirus on the business [17 March]. It's sales were impacted in the second half of the quarter due to coronavirus.

Jigsaw stores are currently open, and the company said it is "reviewing this". It will only be accepting card payments. In addition, the retailer has cancelled all store events to minimise the number of people in stores at one time. Jigsaw's website is up and running, and it is offering free delivery on all web orders.

Laura Ashley [17 March]: The retailer has filed a notice to appoint advisory firm PwC as administrators after failing to secure an emergency funding lifeline amid coronavirus trading concerns. Despite announcing that it was in "advanced discussions" with a third-party lender to provide £15m investment, Laura Ashley has now said it will be unable to secure the funding "in a timely manner sufficient to support working capital requirements".

Primark [16 March]: As a result of the ongoing spread of coronavirus across mainland Europe, t he value retailer has had to close stores in France, Spain and Austria, accounting for 20% of its selling space and 30% of its sales.

Urban Outfitters [16 March]: Urban Outfitters announced on 16 March that all stores will close until further notice via its Instagram.

Make it British [13 March]: UK manufacturing trade show Make it British Live has been postponed until further notice. The show was due to take place on 17 March at the Business Design Centre in London.

Kingpins [10 March]: Denim supply chain trade show Kingpins Amsterdam has cancelled its April edition amid health concerns and travel restrictions linked to the Covid-19 coronavirus. The show which was supposed to run from 22 - 23 April in the new SugarCity location.

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Coronavirus tracker: how the industry is reacting

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JD Sports [24 April]: To help cut costs, the group's board and senior management team have agreed to voluntary salary reductions of at least 25% for the current period of disruption. Peter Cowgill, executive chairman, volunteered for a salary reduction of 75%.

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The survey found that consumer confidence was at the same level as in the last two weeks of March, which was the biggest fall since records began in January 1974.

The report surveyed 2,000 individuals on 1-14 April.

Joe Staton, client strategy director at GfK, said: "Consumer confidence has stayed at the minus -34 points recorded in our first Covid-19 flash of April 6th. It is impossible to say if this is at the bottom after weeks of adjustment to the reality of lockdown life, or if further falls are to come.

"We are recording a three-point rise in expectations for personal finances for the next 12-months, although it is important not to attach too much significance to this. It's no surprise that the Major Purchase Index remains low.

"Despite households making online purchases of home cooking equipment, freezers, TVs, monitors and other goods, these surges in demand have not compensated for the loss of overall retail sales due to the closure of physical stores. There is no guarantee that the fall in consumer confidence has ended and we are only five points away from the record -39 low seen in July 2008."
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The survey found that consumer confidence was at the same level as in the last two weeks of March, which was the biggest fall since records began in January 1974. The report surveyed 2,000 individuals on 1-14 April.

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A survey by consultancy GfK found consumer confidence was down by 24 points between the first two and last two weeks of March, falling to -34.

All measures decreased over the period, including confidence in respondents' personal financial situation over the last 12 months, personal financial situation over the next 12 months, and the general economic situation over the next 12 months.

The report surveyed 2,000 individuals on 16-17 March.

Joe Staton, GfK's client strategy director, said: "Our Covid-19 'flash report' shows a dramatic result with consumer confidence falling off the cliff in the last two weeks of March. The last time we saw such a decline was during the 2008 economic downturn.

"Our falling confidence in our personal financial situation and the wider economy reflects the new concern for many across the UK. Despite record grocery sales, and recent peaks for purchases of freezers, TVs and home office equipment as people prepared for a long period in the home, the Major Purchase Index is down 50 points - a stark picture for some parts of the retail industry in the short-to-medium term."

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​Consumer confidence 'falls off a cliff'

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A survey by consultancy GfK found consumer confidence was down by 24 points between the first two and last two weeks of March, falling to -34. All measures decreased over the period, including confidence in respondents' personal financial situation over the last 12 months, personal financial situation over the next 12 months, and the general economic situation over the next 12 months.

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As millions of the UK's workforce are forced to sit at home as part of the effort to curb the spread of the coronavirus, it is difficult to imagine a return to pre-lockdown times.

The government announced last week that the UK is to remain in lockdown until at least 7 May, and so it still remains unclear when many businesses will be able to resume trading, or what that might look like.

However, Drapers' latest research makes one thing clear: even once we are through this crisis, business will not just bounce back to normal.

Long-term effects

As part of an ongoing investigative series into Covid-19's impact on fashion retail businesses, Drapers conducted a second survey of the UK and Irish industry to find out how it is handling and responding to the government lockdown - and what the future of retail will look like. The survey was open to fashion-based businesses from across the UK and Ireland, and received 178 responses between 25 March and 12 April.

More than one-third of respondents (36%) believe it will take six months to a year for their business to fully recover from the coronavirus crisis, while 34% say one to two years, 16% say up to six months and 11% say between two and three years (graph, opposite). Only 1% believe they will recover immediately, and 1% say it will take more than three years.

Professional services firm Alvarez & Marsal, which is advising struggling lifestyle retailer Cath Kidston, and economist Retail Economics, described the recovery timeframe for retailers as "uncertain", in their report, Surviving the Cash Crunch: The Impact of COVID-19 on the UK Retail Industry, published earlier this month.

It says: "Assumptions concerning the timeframe for recovery are highly debatable, and dependent upon the duration and trajectory of the pandemic.

"Given the significant shock to the economy in the second quarter of 2020, the prospect for a retail recovery in the second half of the year is highly dependent on the effectiveness of government policy, whether any additional measures will be announced to further support businesses and households, and the duration of the pandemic.

"Until further clarity emerges on when the outbreak will end, the longer-term scale of the negative economic impact remains uncertain and very difficult to quantify."

Those who focus on what they stand for will be the quickest to assume leading positions

Clare Kennedy, AlixPartners

Clare Kennedy, director at consulting firm AlixPartners, concurs: "In terms of duration, it is of course incredibly hard to predict, given the volatility of the situation. What we can say with some confidence, though, is that those who achieve the balancing act and focus on what they stand for, how they engage with customers and the viability of their operating model will be the quickest to assume leading positions, whatever the new commercial environment looks like."

The CEO of one womenswear retailer, who is also a turnaround expert, predicts that most businesses will recover by March 2021: "The retailers that recover will have worked with brands that support them in one way or another, and are well financed enough to stay afloat.

"Those that survive will probably have their business structures sorted out and their sources of supply in place for the second half of spring 21. I can't see 'normality' [returning] until then."

Eventual recovery

Encouragingly, almost all of our survey participants expect their business to eventually recover from the crisis. Nearly three-quarters (68%) say they would "to some extent", 27% said "yes, fully", and just 5% said theirs would not.

Kennedy tells Drapers: "We consider that the 68% of respondents in the camp of 'to some extent' hold a realistic view. What remains to be seen is quite how 'some extent' ultimately defines itself. What is true, though, is that, just as before the crisis, well-run retailers with a constant focus on operational efficiency, who engage with customers via both their brand and purpose, and who constantly leverage data and technology stand the greatest chance of success.

Retailers must start planning a recovery strategy for each country they operate in

Honor Strachan, GlobalData

"The incredibly hard balancing act that retailers hoping to emerge intact and relevant for the new environment have to achieve involves dealing with the 'now' but also looking ahead to the 'then'.

"The decisions and actions that retailers make now to manage the short term will be judged by all their stakeholder groups, and will determine long-term success. This applies to employees, supply partners, landlords, lenders and, ultimately, customers."

Honor Strachan, principal analyst at research consultancy GlobalData, argues that immediate action is vital: "Retailers must start planning a recovery strategy for each country they operate in, taking into account consumer sentiment and confidence, the country's financial stability, consumer propensity to spend on fashion, online penetration, and the time in the season and promotional calendar. All of these factors will impact how and when physical stores should reopen."

Richard Fleming, managing director and head of restructuring, Europe, at Alvarez & Marsal, agrees: "The next few weeks will be critical. Retailers need to ask themselves tough questions and take steps to address underlying operational issues while they still have the chance."

However, several survey respondents have called for the government to help fashion retail businesses with plans for how to proceed after the lockdown, and for long-term survival.

"The government needs to put a plan in place for retail recovery after the lockdown," the director of one London-based shoemaker says.

The co-founder of one Scottish independent retailer agrees: "There needs to be some clear, specific guidance and consideration on what the long-term plan of action for businesses is.

"There are so many conflicting comments coming from the government [about what are considered non-essential operations and who can apply for money]."

Tom Ironside, director of business and regulation at the British Retail Consortium, concludes: "Drapers' second survey highlights the need for continued support from the UK government in the coming weeks and months.

"The one-year respite from business rates and the Coronavirus Job Retention Scheme have both been essential moves by government to protect jobs and livelihoods, but they will need to be supplemented by meaningful measures to support tenants if many firms are to survive."

The government did not respond to Drapers' request for comment.

About the survey

- Carried out online from 25 March to 12 April

- 178 respondents across the UK and Ireland

- Respondents: 31% were fashion brands, 23% independent retailers, 13% fashion suppliers, 13% "other", 12% manufacturers, 12% wholesale brand, 12%, multiple retailer or department store chain, 7% fashion agency, 3% university/further education

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Drapers Investigates: Retail's long road to recovery

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As millions of the UK's workforce are forced to sit at home as part of the effort to curb the spread of the coronavirus, it is difficult to imagine a return to pre-lockdown times.

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Monsoon Accessorize is mulling options for the business due to being severely impacted by the Covid-19 outbreak. The sale of the company is a potential option, with reports that restructuring experts at FRP Advisory are working on the possible scenarios.

In a statement the company said: "Monsoon and Accessorize were trading well until the start of March, ahead of last year and ahead of the financial plan set out at the time of last year's CVA. In common with all other fashion retailers, trading since then has been badly affected by the outbreak of Covid-19, with the company facing significant pressure on revenues after shutting all of its stores."

"As a result the board is looking at a range of options to secure the business's long-term future in these exceptionally difficult times. These options include a potential sale of some or all of the business. No decisions have been made about the timing or nature of any steps the business may take."

Monsoon employs around 3,500 people and is concerned that a significant number of jobs could be impacted by any moves.

The high-street retailer has been struggling for some time and has been operating under a company voluntary arrangement (CVA) restructuring deal. Last year, Monsoon's founder, Peter Simon committed to £30 million in loans to support the business in response to the CVA.
Read Monsoon's profile in our master database of fashion, The Intelligence.

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Monsoon Accessorize considers options due to Coronavirus outbreak - TheIndustry.fashion

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Monsoon Accessorize is mulling options for the business due to being severely impacted by the Covid-19 outbreak. The sale of the company is a potential option, with reports that restructuring experts at FRP Advisory are working on the possible scenarios.

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Last week Next, Quiz, River Island and Fenwick relaunched their online operations, which had been halted for several weeks as a safety precaution against Covid-19. Footwear retailer Schuh reopened its website on 3 April.

Next re-opened online in 14 April in a "very limited" way selling low volumes having implemented extensive additional safety measures including; one way systems and new walkways, changes to the allocation of work to ensure two-metre distancing and providing sanitisation equipment.

The business had reached its new self-imposed daily order limit by 8.30am on the relaunch date, and by 7.45am the following day.

"Next has set a limit on a certain number of units, reverse-engineering its original online distribution model - it's an ingenious idea," Daniel Bobroff, founder of technology advisory firm Coded Futures told Drapers.

"It's a sign of things to come, with retailers beginning to think in different way about their businesses. What Next has done is particularly noteworthy, as you would never have possibly imagined that they would have had to have implemented this strategy."

Retail analyst Mark Pilkington said Next halting orders so soon after relaunching is a positive sign for trading in the weeks ahead: "This pent-up demand indicates that there is still an appetite among consumers for fashion, despite the supposed emphasis on essentials such as food. This impression is supported by the positive trading being experienced by a number of my clients in the ecommerce space.

However, he added: "How long the online companies can keep going in lockdown depends on how well capitalised they are. Next is pretty well capitalised and has said that it could sustain lost sales of 25% without breaching its banking covenants. Other online retailers are not as well financed, and, with venture capital money drying up, we will almost certainly see some bankruptcies or forced mergers."

A few retailers, including TK Maxx and Moss Bros, are keeping their online operations closed.

"Most retailers are still operating online - the ones that aren't are a minority," John Stevenson, analyst at Peel Hunt told Drapers.

" Superdry, Ted Baker, Boden, are all still operational. I imagine most of those who are not will come back online now after Next because they're all stuck on a mountain of spring product that need to go. I don't think many can really afford to keep it. Those retailers that haven't got the balance sheet will need to liquidate everything they can."

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Last week Next, Quiz, River Island and Fenwick relaunched their online operations, which had been halted for several weeks as a safety precaution against Covid-19. Footwear retailer Schuh reopened its website on 3 April.

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Founder Peter Simon has written to suppliers updating them on the business's position. The letter, seen by Drapers, warned suppliers that "some [autumn 20] orders will need to be cancelled and or quantities reduced."

Simon said: "We are reviewing our autumn/winter position on both existing and future orders and will be in touch regarding what we will be able to accept based on the new level of the business post Covid-19."

The fashion retailer noted it has taken receipt of 90% of its spring 20 orders at full price. However, it has now informed suppliers that the remaining 10% not received into its UK distribution centre by 19 March will be cancelled.

Orders already on the water or received by this date will be handled on a case-by-case basis, with the potential consideration of Monsoon Accessorize accepting them with a 30% discount.

Last month, the business extended its payment terms from 90 days to 120 days. This extension will be applied to all orders going forward, with a review as soon as the business sees an improvement in its trading and cash position.

Monsoon Accessorize is currently considering a potential sale of some or all of the business, among other options to secure its long-term future post Covid-19.

In the letter sent to suppliers yesterday, Simon said: "It has become clear from our business review that we cannot emerge from the Covid-19 outbreak without making a range of difficult decisions, including in relation to stock orders. I can assure you that these decisions have not been made lightly and I am intensively aware of the potential implications these may have, for our suppliers who face similar cash-flow challenges from Covid-19 which are currently impacting your own businesses and employees.

"We are committed to working to stabilise our businesses position to ensure that we emerge from the Covid-19 outbreak a strong, resilient business for the future. As part of this strategy we have already explored and used UK government support schemes in certain areas. We have also undertaken a rigorous review of our business, our cashflow and our stock positions and have subsequently implemented a number of cost-control processes to improve our cash position including deferred tax payments and sought rent holidays from our landlords."

Monsoon Accessorize declined to comment.

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Monsoon Accessorize warns suppliers of autumn cancellations

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Founder Peter Simon has written to suppliers updating them on the business's position. The letter, seen by Drapers, warned suppliers that "some [autumn 20] orders will need to be cancelled and or quantities reduced."

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As high streets and shopping centres lie empty in cities across Europe, the usual flow of orders to factories in garment-producing countries has come to a sudden and devastating halt. Among the worst hit by coronavirus cancellations is Bangladesh, whose economy relies heavily on clothing exports. Suppliers, and garment workers, are now struggling to survive.

Disappearing domestic demand has resulted in retailers cancelling orders en masse, putting enormous pressure on the industry in Bangladesh and pushing factories to the brink of collapse. More than 1,100 factories in Bangladesh are currently closed and around $3.08bn (£2.4bn) worth of exports - the equivalent of 964 million pieces of clothing - have been cancelled or suspended during the coronavirus crisis so far, Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association has reported.

In a video published at the end of March, association president Rubana Huq pleaded with international buyers to take delivery of completed orders under existing payment terms to protect people who work in the sector.

"We will have 4.1 million workers literally going hungry if we don't all step up to our commitment to the welfare of the workers. This is a call we all promised to take a long time ago," Huq warned.

"Orders are being cancelled by buyers and retailers at a rate we've never seen before

Mostafiz Uddin, managing director of denim manufacturer Denim Expert

"One thing is very clear: our foremost responsibility is towards our workers. We are a manufacturing country. Our reality and your reality is totally different, but it is not a time to point out differences - it is a time through which we need to work together."

Workers' rights

Millions of factory workers have been sent home, often without legally mandated pay or severance money, the Center for Global Workers Rights reported last month.

"More than half of Bangladeshi clothing suppliers have had the bulk of their in-process or completed orders cancelled, its report found, and more than half of factories have had to shut operations as a result. When orders were cancelled, more than 70% of buyers globally refused to pay for the raw materials already purchased.

"Orders are being cancelled by buyers and retailers at a rate we've never seen before," Mostafiz Uddin, managing director of denim manufacturer Denim Expert in Chittagong and founder of the Sustainable Apparel Forum, tells Drapers. Denim Expert works with high street retailers including Arcadia Group.

"It is crippling the entire industry. If the buyers do not pay the manufacturers, how will the manufacturers pay the salaries to their workers? Without orders, factories cannot remain operational and will go bust.

"Secure work at [garment] factories is a lifeline for millions of families in Bangladesh. How will they survive if the factories do not?"

Simone Cipriani, head and founder of the Ethical Fashion Initiative at the United Nations' International Trade Centre, adds: "Cancelled orders in a country like Bangladesh have a huge social impact - much larger than we can imagine in the setting of Europe or the US.

As a bare minimum, retailers have to be honouring existing contracts

Dominique Muller, policy director at campaign group Labour Behind the Label

"The impact of coronavirus on businesses in western countries has been bad, but there are at least public mechanisms to mitigate the effects on society. In Bangladesh, the lack of a living wage means workers don't have the income necessary to deal with any kind of emergency, not only because of current cancellations but because of employment conditions pre-crisis. Workers have not accumulated any kind of financial buffer."

He adds that desperate workers unable to find alternatives may be forced to find illegal work, including, in some extreme cases, turning to terrorism.

Disease threat

As factories fight to survive, there are also concerns about how densely populated Bangladesh will be able to control the spread of coronavirus, particularly among the country's poorest. Although at the time of writing the number of reported infections and deaths in the country was still relatively low, millions of people live in slums. Cramped living conditions and limited access to running water make social distancing and frequent hand washing to fight off the virus impossible.

One high street supplier who works with factories in Bangladesh tells Drapers: "Somewhere like Bangladesh is not going to be able to enforce social distancing without a huge slowdown in production.

Some factories are also saying they are taking precautions when in fact they aren't

Dominique Muller, policy director at campaign group Labour Behind the Label

"How the country will cope with the virus is a worry. Often in garment factories, workers are a metre away or less from each other.

"The situation also poses challenges for retailers, because one of the key characteristics of the Bangladesh apparel sector is high volumes. Retailers will struggle to switch big orders [to other countries] without incurring huge costs.

"The biggest impact, however, will be on the Bangladesh economy, which will be very badly hit."

Dominique Muller, policy director at campaign group Labour Behind the Label, adds: "This virus affects everyone, and it doesn't discriminate, but how people experience this virus varies hugely. If you're a garment worker living in small room and you lose your job, you'll be forced out on the streets to find work wherever you can and there's a huge risk of the virus spreading.

"From what we've seen and heard, some factories are also saying they are taking precautions when in fact they aren't."

Ethical reponse

To help prevent a humanitarian disaster in Bangladesh, suppliers, charities and apparel bodies are calling on retailers to work with factories to share the burden. A handful of retailers are taking this approach - H&M Group, for example, has agreed to pay for already produced garments and goods in production under agreed terms in all sourcing countries, including Bangladesh. The Swedish retail giant will also not negotiate prices on any already placed orders.

Primark has pledged to pay the wages of workers who were producing orders that have now been cancelled. However, critics, including Labour Behind the Label's Muller, point out that wages do not cover the whole cost of cancelled orders and factories are still left out of pocket.

Muller argues: "As a bare minimum, retailers have to be honouring existing contracts. Some big brands have the power to effectively renege on contracts - they must pay for work that has already taken place. They need to be asking suppliers about employment relations and if all workers are getting legal benefits and compensation.

Brands and retailers should take delivery of the current orders that have already been produced

Mostafiz Uddin, managing director of denim manufacturer Denim Expert

"Now is the time to step up and not just rely on vague codes of conduct. Retailers also need to be ensuring factories are following World Health Organization guidelines to protect the health of workers."

Denim Expert's Uddin agrees: "Brands do not want to lose their supply chains - the world will still need apparel supply chains [after coronavirus], unless we all decide to stop wearing clothing.

"Brands and retailers should take delivery of the current orders that have already been produced or are at different stages of production with the agreed payment terms as per the contracts. Real partnership between brands and manufacturers is now more important than ever, for both sides to support the other and to collaborate to overcome the crisis."

High street retailers and brands talk about the struggle to survive the coronavirus crisis, but this could quickly become a very literal problem for garment workers in sourcing countries like Bangladesh. Many could fall even further below the poverty line if they are left out of work. The wellbeing of workers in sourcing countries is the responsibility of the entire fashion industry.

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'Millions will literally go hungry': coronavirus chaos in Bangladesh

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As high streets and shopping centres lie empty in cities across Europe, the usual flow of orders to factories in garment-producing countries has come to a sudden and devastating halt. Among the worst hit by coronavirus cancellations is Bangladesh, whose economy relies heavily on clothing exports.

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The high street retailer's board is looking at a "range of options" to ensure its long-term future, including a sale, after it closed all its stores in response to the coronavirus pandemic.

A spokesman said: " Monsoon and Accessorize were trading well until the start of March, ahead of last year and ahead of the financial plan set out at last year's CVA. In common with all other fashion retailers, trading has been badly affected by the outbreak of Covid-19."

One former high street CEO said: "I think there will be a number of brands in similar situations and the lucky ones will be the ones that have strong equity and someone will see the value in that. Monsoon, had they been rocking and rolling over the past couple of years, they wouldn't have had to do a CVA so things obviously were not brilliant.

"I think the concerning thing is there's a potential for an orderly sales process to suddenly turn into an administration, and that's what nobody wants to see."

A high street CFO said: " Monsoon Accessorize have been struggling for some time, given their dependence on physical retail. The current situation is just pushing people beyond the brink of what was already a pretty tough time.

"I think the ones that are less developed online or generally a business model that's more reliant on physical retail are going to find it hard to adjust."

Monsoon Accessorize declined to comment further.

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Monsoon Accessorize sale to be 'one of many'

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The high street retailer's board is looking at a "range of options" to ensure its long-term future, including a sale, after it closed all its stores in response to the coronavirus pandemic. A spokesman said: " Monsoon and Accessorize were trading well until the start of March, ahead of last year and ahead of the financial plan set out at last year's CVA.

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In a letter to landlords, the retailer said: "As soon as the situation returns to relative normality, we will return to paying rent and at that time will provide proposals to make up the rent shortfall."

The closures come ahead of an expected announcement from the prime minister tonight that reportedly could require all shops - except supermarkets, food stores and pharmacies - to close.
Read our coronavirus tracker to see how the rest of the industry is reacting.
Drapers revealed last week that Monsoon Accessorize was among retailers to extended their supplier payment terms in a bid to safeguard their businesses against the ongoing coronavirus crisis.

The retailer has extended its supplier payment terms from 90 days to 120 days for goods received into its Warehouse "with immediate effect on all due invoices".

Monsoon Accessorize declined to comment.

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Monsoon defers rent payments due to coronavirus

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In a letter to landlords, the retailer said: "As soon as the situation returns to relative normality, we will return to paying rent and at that time will provide proposals to make up the rent shortfall."

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Named after an Indian tree, the range is made using traditional techniques by artisans in India. It also uses organic cotton and Lenzing Ecovero, which is derived from renewable wood sources.

Techniques used throughout the collection include wood blocking, screen printing and batik - a traditional dyeing technique that uses wax to make patterns.

Key pieces include tiered batik print midi-dresses and a kimono made from Lenzing Ecovero.

Retail prices range from £35 for tops to £75 for dresses.

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First look: Monsoon launches sustainable range

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Named after an Indian tree, the range is made using traditional techniques by artisans in India. It also uses organic cotton and Lenzing Ecovero, which is derived from renewable wood sources. Techniques used throughout the collection include wood blocking, screen printing and batik - a traditional dyeing technique that uses wax to make patterns.

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Launching in February, Monson said its spring collection will showcase "significant" sustainability improvements and that more than half of the clothing will be made from responsibly sourced materials.

It will increase the amount of organic cotton used from 30% to 70%, and viscose from 60% to 65%. Meanwhile, 70% of its jerseys will also be sustainable.

As well as this, Monsoon is launching a 90% sustainable beachwear collection for spring 20, and 65% of its children's beach products will be sustainable.

Looking ahead, the company has committed to making all of its clothing ranges "more than 90% sustainable by 2023".

Caroline Jackson, head of design, said: "Ethical production has always been at the heart of Monsoon and as we move forward, we want the sustainability of our products to become an integral part of our brand DNA.

"We are currently driving an internal revolution to implement impactful changes. By 2023, we want to become the figurehead for sustainability within the UK high street and we are very much looking forward to achieving that goal."

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Launching in February, Monson said its spring collection will showcase "significant" sustainability improvements and that more than half of the clothing will be made from responsibly sourced materials. It will increase the amount of organic cotton used from 30% to 70%, and viscose from 60% to 65%.

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Like many high street retailers, Monsoon Accessorize is facing a number of challenges - with the firm currently undergoing major restructuring plans of its physical stores.

However, the company is also focused on boosting its online presence. Lizzie Newell, social media manager at both brands, says social commerce has become an increasingly important area for the business.

Since joining over a year ago, revenue from social has been a top priority. As a channel, it can be underestimated in driving awareness "and ultimately sales," she says.

Using advanced social commerce technology has increased click through and conversion rates. The retailer uses tools from visual commerce company Curalate, including Like2Buy, which enables Instagram feeds to be shoppable, and Fanreel which pulls in user-generated images to a brand's website and applies image recognition to tag products to show they are easy to buy.

Natural fits

In spring 2019 the firm decided to do more work with "micro-influencers" - rather than people who seem "unreachable," says Newell. That strategy is complementing its use of social technology.

"The micro-influencers content sits seamlessly next to fan snaps in the Fanreel gallery." People enjoy seeing their images on our website mixed in with influencers, which also strengthens brand loyalty.

"Of course, there is still a place for top-tier Influencers; the younger end of the Accessorize audience especially still react well to 'glamorous' people we can all be 'in awe of'.

"We've got a few girls with larger followings who have become true brand ambassadors and friends. We generally amplify their more polished content through paid social," she adds.

Brand difference

Monsoon tends to have an older customer base. Inspiration around 'how to wear' items typically appeals more than influencer and celebrity content.

The Fanreel gallery gives Monsoon customers a place to browse how clothes look in real life, not on models. "The user-generated content we get tagged in demonstrates the wide variation of age and personal style within our audience," she says.

Although Instagram is still important for Monsoon, it also sees high engagement and clicks through from Facebook. "It is on Facebook that we use Showroom links to create easily- digestible capsule collections to a 'theme' or 'trend' to help educate our consumer on key products per season, for example."

The main challenge for Monsoon social is to keep attracting a new, younger audience, while retaining loyal repeat-purchasers, she says.

"The brand is transitioning and introducing trend-led pieces, but we have to tell that story on social in a considered way and still represent our classic styles with a strong 'pay for quality' message."

For Accessorize, a lot of time and resource is dedicated to Instagram - growth, content, competitions, paid social. "It is our heartland, and where our most engaged target audience can be found."

The biggest change from over the last year has been the huge increase in the output of Instagram stories, she says. "We challenged ourselves with four stories a week and added numerous highlights to cover all aspects of brand story-telling, including behind-the-design content, charity and ethical narratives and key events (e.g. Pride, #MentalHealthWeek)."

Following the launch of its social shoppable function, Monsoon reported a 29% increase in website dwell time. Meanwhile, Accessorize reported a 65% conversion rate uplift.

As tough high street trading conditions shows little sign of abating, using new channels to boost online growth seems more important than ever.

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Monsoon Accessorize on using social to boost sales

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Like many high street retailers, Monsoon Accessorize is facing a number of challenges - with the firm currently undergoing major restructuring plans of its physical stores. However, the company is also focused on boosting its online presence. Lizzie Newell, social media manager at both brands, says social commerce has become an increasingly important area for the business.

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Monsoon Accessorize has announced its trading has been "badly affected" by Covid-19 and as a result is mulling a potential sale of the business.

The company said it had been trading well up until the impact of the coronavirus pandemic took its toll on the industry, indicating that the Company Voluntary Arrangement (CVA) it launched last year after a period of poor trading was starting to show positive results.

The retailer currently employs around 3,500 people.

A spokesperson said: "Monsoon and Accessorize were trading well until the start of March, ahead of last year and ahead of the financial plan set out at the time of last year's CVA. In common with all other fashion retailers, trading since then has been badly affected by the outbreak of Covid-19, with the company facing significant pressure on revenues after shutting all of its stores."

Monsoon Accessorize feels Covid-19 impact

The spokesperson continued: "As a result the board is looking at a range of options to secure the business's long-term future in these exceptionally difficult times. These options include a potential sale of some or all of the business. No decisions have been made about the timing or nature of any steps the business may take."

The company has reportedly called in restructuring experts from FRP Advisory to look over potential options for the business.

In July 2019, Monsoon Accessorize won approval from its creditors to seek rent cuts in over half of its stores as part of a restructuring plan.

As part of the strategy, founder and owner of the business Peter Simon provided the company with a 30 million pound. The company also offered landlords up to 10 million pounds if it turned back to profit in the future.
Photo credit: Monsoon, Facebook

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Monsoon Accessorize mulls sale as Covid-19 takes toll on trading

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Monsoon Accessorize has announced its trading has been "badly affected" by Covid-19 and as a result is mulling a potential sale of the business. The company said it had been trading well up until the impact of the coronavirus pandemic took i

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Before the coronavirus crisis set fashion spinning, sustainability was the industry's biggest buzzword. Be it big-name brand pledges, collaborative innovation, the rise of new business models or calls for government intervention - the hot topic of conversation was the damaging environmental side-effects of fashion retail.

That conversation has now drastically changed, as retailers focus on the battle for survival. Could sustainability be in danger of falling off the agenda? Or will a post-coronavirus shake-up trigger a renewed business and consumer focus on the topic, as we settle into new habits of working, living and shopping?

Research agency GlobalData says that, in the short term, the cash crisis retailers face after coronavirus could reduce investment into sustainable innovation.

Analyst Emily Salter explains: "Making changes to materials, logistics and production processes to improve the sustainability of products and operations will slow, as sustainability is no longer top of retailers' and consumers' agendas. Long-term adjustments are costly. Many non-food retailers will be financially unstable as they emerge from this crisis after a significant period of low or no sales."

The issue of single-use plastics, which was an early focus for sustainability concerns, also looks set to fall out of focus. Rigorous health and safety standards demand the use of a higher number of single-use items, such as plastic garment bags to prevent the spread of infection, as well as protective plastic gloves for warehouse workers.

"Sustainability and single-use plastic will be less important to many consumers in the short term where hygiene and cleanliness is more of a priority to prevent the spread of the virus," says Salter.

Burberry aw19

The build-up of unsold stock, and how retailers choose to dispose of this, could also pose a sustainability challenge. As demand for new product drops and retailers are forced to close stores for weeks, piles of clothing will lie unsold. Retailers will need to decide how best to dispose of these items, and doing this is an environmentally friendly manner will certainly be a challenge. The backlash Burberry faced when it burned unsold stock indicates that retailers will have to think carefully about their decisions.

As of yet, no retailers have rowed back of initiatives combatting these issues, but looking ahead, they may be less of a focus for future investment as balancing the books and preserving core functions becomes a priority.

Elsewhere, there are also concerns about the human impact of the crisis. In the UK and around the globe, hundreds of thousands of people have already lost their jobs because of the crisis. The sudden cancellation of orders from retailers including Arcadia, New Look, Urban Outfitters and JD WIlliams has hit workers in clothing manufacturing hard.

For example, as Drapers reported earlier this week, more than 1,100 factories in Bangladesh are currently closed, and around $3.08bn (£2.4bn) of orders have been cancelled or suspended, the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association reports. The human cost for those now unable to earn a wage is vast.

"There are millions of people being laid off in fashion, both in the consumer facing side and in supply chains. It's tragic the circumstances that people find themselves in," says Tamsin Lejeune, CEO of sustainable fashion network Common Objective. "In recent years, the focus on sustainability has ramped up, but the discussion has mainly been around the environment. The social issues have been less relevant. The two are entwined but we've overlooked the human side. We can't do that now."

She continues: "Our fashion system has supported millions of people, and the two sides of the coin need to be looked at. We need to look at the environmental impact and how the industry is structured - how you build a business model that protects everyone involved."

While big business sustainability efforts draw headlines, small businesses are equally as instrumental in conversations around sustainability. Many have built business models, products and concepts with sustainable principals at their heart.

Annick Ireland, founder of sustainable multi-brand ecommerce site Immaculate Vegan, works with more than 100 small brands and notes that these labels brands are facing significant challenges to keep up operations: "A lot of the conversation around sustainability is led by a large number of small brands, and small businesses face a real challenge in the short term. We are still selling, but there is less demand and so there is no cashflow for us or for the brands we sell."

Ireland explains that, although all small companies are vulnerable, sustainable brands may face even greater pressures: "Sustainable businesses in particular already have tiny margins, because so much money goes into to creating a sustainable product, innovating in the business and into things such as ensuring the fair payment of staff. Running a sustainable business is expensive - we don't have huge cash reserves, and when the cashflow stops, then that is a huge challenge."

While these hurdles are significant, Ireland believes they are "short term", and hopes that, in the longer term, the conversations prompted by the crisis - regarding approaches to consumerism and the importance of making considered purchases - could lead to wider change in future

Common Objective's Lejeune agrees, and adds that the economic fallout from the crisis has already highlighted the instability of current business models - with fast fashion businesses stumbling as sales drop, unsold clothing piles up and suppliers bear the brunt of cancelled orders when clothing turnover falls.

"People are recognising that the origin of this crisis [in terms of the impact on business] results from our current business models and set up," she says. "It makes the conflict between our economy and the environment clear and demonstrates that there is something very wrong with the system."

Lejeune is hopeful, however, that the dramatic global impact of the crisis could lead to drastic rethinks of current set-ups, leading towards more sustainable operations in the future: "There is an opportunity for this to reset how we do business. The trend up until now has been that fashion is taking on board that things need to change: people want to make a difference. So far, the majority of this has been done by looking at the quality of processes within current business models - but that only touches the tip of the iceberg. Really, it is about how you build a business model that protects everyone involved."

While the scale of job losses and furloughing in fashion has been vast, Lejeune sees a silver lining in the situation, and notes that new enquiries to Common Objective have been high, with many new businesses seeking advice on creating sustainable businesses.

"Many people who have left work or are in furlough are now pursuing new ambitions," she says. "The majority of new businesses we see starting up are building sustainability into the core of their models. So, looking ahead, we will see a groundswell of sustainable businesses emerging after this crisis."

The crisis also looks set to shift consumer perceptions on sustainability. Cora Hilts, founder of sustainable ecommerce site Rêve en Vert, believes that as consumers are forced to slow down by the lockdown, they will have the time to consider issues of the industry.

"Before, consumers heard about sustainability, but they were so busy that they didn't have the time to contemplate what it really meant," she says. "People now have the time to engage and feel angry and upset."

Although she is concerned that sustainability may be placed on the back burner as businesses seek to recoup losses after the crisis, she is hopeful that changing and forceful consumer demands will hold businesses accountable for their decisions when normal life resumes.

"On one hand it makes me very angry, but I wonder how consumer attitudes to brands will change," she says. "If people stopped shopping at certain places, then the businesses would have to change - it will be led by the consumers, and I will be interested to see how different companies respond to consumer pressure."

As with so many aspects of the coronavirus crisis, the long-term impact is impossible to divine. In the short term, small brands and retailers with sustainability at their core will take a hit, and bigger brands may choose to delay their focus on the issue to preserve their businesses. However, the changes to consumer mindsets, and the huge economic upheaval could irrevocably alter attitudes to business and fashion on all fronts - paving the way for a more sustainable industry in years to come.

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Coronavirus and sustainability: how will fashion respond?

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Before the coronavirus crisis set fashion spinning, sustainability was the industry's biggest buzzword. Be it big-name brand pledges, collaborative innovation, the rise of new business models or calls for government intervention - the hot topic of conversation was the damaging environmental side-effects of fashion retail.

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CEO AGENDA

REDESIGNING FASHION'S BUSINESS MODEL

The current model has served as a powerful engine for global growth and development for the past 100 years, but we believe there is a compelling business case for those who invest in long-term social and environmental sustainability, beyond short-term financial incentives. While we acknowledge that changing established practices is not an easy feat, we also remain convinced that the fashion industry can act as inspirational forerunner.

Already today, the fashion industry finds itself in a transformational state where company owners and shareholders seek to protect the long-term viability of their investments and acknowledge clear business opportunities by devoting themselves to sustainable development. A great opportunity for long-lasting and purpose-driven value creation is apparent, calling for creative leadership to champion change management and forward-looking approaches to progress by redefining measures of success and decoupling growth from resource constraints.

We urge you as industry leaders to investigate new business models outside current market mechanisms to drive change, implement innovation and tap into collaborative business opportunities. This is not only essential to future-proof your business, but it is also crucial for humanity to operate within planetary boundaries and to meet the needs of future generations.

The current model has served as a powerful engine for global growth and development for the past 100 years, but we believe there is a compelling business case for those who invest in long-term social and environmental sustainability, beyond short-term financial incentives. While we acknowledge that changing established practices is not an easy feat, we also remain convinced that the fashion industry can act as inspirational forerunner.

Already today, the fashion industry finds itself in a transformational state where company owners and shareholders seek to protect the long-term viability of their investments and acknowledge clear business opportunities by devoting themselves to sustainable development. A great opportunity for long-lasting and purpose-driven value creation is apparent, calling for creative leadership to champion change management and forward-looking approaches to progress by redefining measures of success and decoupling growth from resource constraints.

We urge you as industry leaders to investigate new business models outside current market mechanisms to drive change, implement innovation and tap into collaborative business opportunities. This is not only essential to future-proof your business, but it is also crucial for humanity to operate within planetary boundaries and to meet the needs of future generations.

2020 SPOTLIGHT

BIODIVERSITY

The CEO Agenda 2020 shines a light on biodiversity among the existing priorities and provides further guidance for fashion brands to take action. Biodiversity is integrated within the core priorities Supply Chain Traceability, Reversing Climate Change, Efficient Use of Water, Energy and Chemicals, and within the transformational priority Sustainable Material Mix. To ease navigation, the bee icon indicates where you can find more information on biodiversity.

Biodiversity is the term given to the variety of life on Earth and the natural systems it forms and includes the variability among living organisms as well as the diversity within species, between species and of ecosystems. It represents the life support system of the Earth, with human livelihoods also directly dependent on genetic, species and ecosystem diversity and function. ¹

Not only does all economic activity depend on services provided by nature ² but the fashion industry's increasing demand and utilisation of energy, land, water and natural resources results in grave loss of ecosystems and species as well as microfibre pollution to name a few. Biodiversity, along with the conservation and restoration of nature should therefore urgently be taken into account for the industry moving forward.

Core priority for immediate implementation

Supply chain traceability

Trace tier one and two manufacturers ³

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87 Lancaster Road
London W11 1QQ
United Kingdom

Company Perspectives:

The Future: Monsoon's dedicated team are committed to the continuing development of the Monsoon product ranges. They plan to grow the company further through continuing expansion in the UK and Ireland, combined with careful expansion overseas, involving joint ventures and co-owned outlets. A key factor in Monsoon's success to date is that it is both people and product focused. The Monsoon team believe that this approach will continue to be a strategic driver in the future and are determined to maintain this distinctive company orientation.

History of Monsoon plc

Monsoon plc is a leading women's clothing and accessories retailer in the United Kingdom, operating three retail store concepts. The company's flagship retail store is its chain of some 150 and growing Monsoon clothing stores, nearly all of which operate in the United Kingdom in Ireland. Monsoon has built up a loyal following in its core U.K. market, which represents more than 90 percent of company sales, with its Asia-inspired designs and colors offering customers what Monsoon calls 'delux bo-ho chic.' Monsoon's fastest-growing chain is its Accessorize retail store and in-store boutique formats featuring home designs and other goods inspired by the company's clothing collections. Launched in the mid-1980s, Accessorize has overtaken the Monsoon chain in number of store openings, reaching more than 130 stores; many Monsoon stores also feature Accessorize in-store boutiques. Accessorize generates some 40 percent of the company's annual sales. Monsoon's third store concept is Monsoon Home, launched in 1999. The company plans to open a series of stand-alone stores under this format, as well as including Monsoon Home boutiques in its larger stores. To accommodate its growing variety of goods, the company has been moving a number of its key stores to new and larger locations. In a difficult retail climate, Monsoon also has been attempting to shore up sales growth by refining the Monsoon format, cutting back on the number of items available in order to increase the stores' clarity. The company also has suggested that it intends to double its network of U.K. stores by 2002. At the same time, Monsoon has been targeting an ambitious international expansion in order to secure its future growth, favoring a franchising concept over extending its company-owned stores. The company intends to achieve this foreign expansion through lower-risk franchise agreements, in a number of primarily smaller European markets, including Greece, Iceland, and Malta. In October 2000, the company set up a joint venture with the United States' Charming Shoppes to bring the Monsoon and Accessorize names to that market. The company is seeking similar franchise and partnership agreements in order to enter the larger European retail markets as well. Monsoon continues to be led by founder, chairman, and majority shareholder Peter Simon and managing director John Spooner.

Hippie Retail Magnate in the 1970s

Peter Simon began his retail career as a fishfinger salesman at a stall in the Portobello Road market in London during the waning days of the Woodstock era. A self-described hippy, Simon was also a traveler, and it was during a trip to India that Simon decided to turn toward the retail clothing market. Returning from that trip, Simon brought with him a supply of clothing. The quick turnover of brightly colored designs encouraged Simon to look for more clothing fashions from the eastern and Asian markets. On a trip to the island of Gobo, near Malta, Simon discovered the 'shoat,' a cross between a sheep and a goat. Working with locals, Simon began producing coats made of the shaggy wool and importing them to his London stall.

Sales of the shoat coats inspired Simon to quit the marketplace and open a full-fledged retail shop in Beauchamp Place in the Knightsbridge area of London in 1973. Simon chose the name of Monsoon for his company, recalling his own birth during a monsoon in Sri Lanka. In addition to the shoat coats, the new store featured other clothing items imported from primarily Asian sources. The company also began designing its own fashions, sticking to Asian-inspired designs and natural materials, while developing its own distinctive styles and colors and incorporating techniques ranging from embroidery and batik to beading. The company caught on with London customers, and Monsoon began opening new stores, at first in London and then later throughout the United Kingdom and Ireland.

Changing fashion trends led the company to adapt, moving its growing number of stores into a more up-market bracket and evolving its clothing into more sophisticated designs. The company was later to describe its fashions as 'deluxe bo-ho chic.' Yet the company's ethnic-inspired origins remained the centerpoint of its designs and retail ambiance. At the same time, Monsoon remained committed to using natural fibers, while also being among the first retailers to adopt stricter requirements from its producers for their working conditions.

Monsoon's growth led Simon to expand the company's management, bringing in Andrew May, who became the company's finance director, in 1981, and John Spooner, who joined the company in 1984, becoming managing director. Monsoon was ready to extend its retail offerings with a new retail concept. Launched in 1984, Accessorize offered a new product range, featuring home furnishings, accessories, and jewelry, incorporating Monsoon's ethic-inspired design feel. The first Accessorize opened in Covent Garden Plaza in London. Its quick success among shoppers led Monsoon to open more Accessorize stores, while adding Accessorize boutiques into some of its Monsoon stores.

The second Accessorize opened in 1986, on famed London fashions street Carnaby St. After adding several more Accessorize stores in the London area, the chain was ready to follow the Monsoon retail chain into other markets in the United Kingdom. In 1992, the company opened an Accessorize store in Manchester, its first outside of London. In that same year, the company proved the flexibility of the Accessorize format when it opened a shop at Gatwick airport. By then, the company's Monsoon chain had neared 60 stores.

International Expansion for the 21st Century

Monsoon's mood was buoyant in the early 1990s, despite the extended economic recession of the period. In 1992 the company prepared a new and massive expansion program that was to transform the company into a leading retailer in the United Kingdom. Monsoon stepped up its rate of store openings, boosting both Monsoon and Accessorize formats. The latter received extra attention from Monsoon, with the company opening some 16 Accessorize stores per year starting with the 1992 year. Parallel to the company's expansion was the sale by Simon of two-thirds of the company's shares to an investment trust, Sycamore Trust, based in Malta.

Into the mid-1990s, Monsoon continued to build up its retail empire. The Monsoon chain continued to lead the company's revenues, as the number of stores reached 84 in the United Kingdom. Monsoon also made its first international moves, opening company-owned stores in the United States, Iceland, Gibraltar, Australia, and a number of European markets. By 1996, the company had 13 foreign stores, a number that was nearly to double in less than a year. Accessorize's growth paralleled the Monsoon chain, reaching 52 stores by mid-1996. The company also had seen steady gains in sales growth, reaching £62.1 million for 1996, and had more than a decade of unbroken growth in its profits.

Monsoon then announced that it would seek a listing on the London stock market by the end of the 1996 summer. The purpose of the listing, which was to take the form of a placement among institutional investors, was to enable the company's majority shareholder, Sycamore Trust, to cash in on some of its shares. Simon himself was not selling any of his remaining one-third of the company's shares. Yet the listing quickly derailed. Claiming that it was unable to determine the identity of the beneficiaries of the initial public offering (IPO)&mdash Sycamore Trust refused to give out information about itself--the IPO's broker, BZW, pulled out of the proposed listing, amid Simon's assertion that he had no connection with Sycamore Trust. Nevertheless, Simon admitted to the Daily Telegraph, 'Myself and my family were not beneficiaries. But there were certain circumstances under which me and my family could have benefited from it.'

Monsoon continued expanding both of its retail networks as it prepared a new attempt at a stock listing. By the end of 1997, the company had boosted the Monsoon chain to 127 stores, including 24 foreign stores, while the Accessorize chain jumped to 76 stand-alone stores and another 103 Accessorize boutiques located within most of the Monsoon stores. With sales continuing to increase, jumping from £79.56 million in 1996 to £107.9 million in 1997, and with net profits growing to £15 million, Monsoon was ready to try again for a public offering.

The company finally came to the London stock exchange in 1998, after the Sycamore Trust's stake in the company was acquired by trusts set up in Guernsey by Simon and his family. Now holding 96 percent of Monsoon, Simon raised eyebrows anew when he admitted that the listing was being made despite the fact that Monsoon was not seeking to raise new capital for expansion--its growth, traditionally, had been financed organically. Many analysts complained that, as the Daily Telegraph suggested, Simon had 'failed to come up with a convincing reason for selling his shares.' Others proposed that Simon, worried about possible downturns in the retail climate, hoped to cash out on some of his shares while the retail market was still at its peak. Undaunted by these criticisms, the company's flotation went ahead, fetching a premium price of 198.6 pence for each of the 44.6 million shares on offer--worth about 25 percent of the company, and, at a massive multiple of 18, valuing the company at nearly £350 million. Simon's gain from the offering, which took the form of a placement among institutional investors in February 1998, was valued at £88 million.

Less than one year later, Monsoon's shares had dropped some 75 percent of their value. While the company's share fortunes were battered by a growing pessimism about the United Kingdom's retail climate (many feared the advent of a new recession as economic crises rocked the Asian, Russian, and South American economies) Monsoon itself added to its troubles at the end of its 1999 year when it announced its first profits slip in 13 years. Despite growing sales, to £132 million, the company's profits had dropped to £20 million, from £27 million one year earlier.

To improve its sales, Monsoon set out revitalizing its stores, streamlining the Monsoon stores' product offering to add more clarity for its customers. The company also began a series of moves to transform its clothing designs, moving toward higher quality tailoring and closer-fitting garments, while also extending its range of sizes to attract a wider customer base. After rolling out its first Monsoon Home the company also began targeting international expansion of both the Monsoon and Accessorize brand names as a company priority. Seeking to avoid the costly capital investment necessary to establish its own stores internationally, however, Monsoon announced its intention to seek partners for its existing foreign stores and to concentrate future international growth through franchise and partnership agreements. A first Accessorize store, which opened in Athens, Greece, showed the company's international promise, outperforming all of the company's U.K. stores.

Monsoon attempted to bring its successful retail formula to the World Wide Web in 2000, opening an e-commerce-capable web site. The company hoped to build up yearly sales to that of one of its bricks-and-mortar stores. Yet the site's sales quickly proved a disappointment, as the company recognized that its customers preferred the physical experience of in-store shopping. By the beginning of 2001, the company announced that it was pulling the plug on its e-commerce operation, using its web pages instead as a promotional site.

Nevertheless, Monsoon closed its 2000 year with renewed growth in its net profits and continued revenue gains. By the beginning of 2001, the company was promising to continue to build up its strong Monsoon and Accessorize brands, doubling its number of stores in the United Kingdom and Ireland over the next two or three years. At the same time, Monsoon hoped to establish its two brands as leading retail names throughout the world. A major part of this goal got under way in October 2000 when the company formed a joint venture with the United States' Charming Shoppes to open 20 Monsoon branded stores in the U.S. market.

Principal Subsidiaries: Monsoon Holdings Ltd; Monsoon Accessorize Ltd.; Monsoon of London Pty Ltd (Australia); Monsoon Coordination Services Ltd (Hong Kong); Monsoon Twilight Inc. (U.S.); Monsoon SARL (France); Monsoon Accessorize ApS (Denmark); Brands Exploitation Ltd (Malta).

Principal Competitors: Arcadia Group plc; ASDA Group Limited; Debenhams plc; The Great Universal Stores plc; Harrods Holdings; House of Fraser plc; James Beattie plc; John Lewis Partnership plc; Marks and Spencer plc; Matalan plc; N Brown Group plc; New Look Plc; NEXT plc; Otto Versand Gmbh & Co.; Selfridges plc; Storehouse plc.

Chronology

1972: Peter Simon begins selling ethnic clothing.

1973: First Monsoon retail store opens.

1984: Company launches Accessorize stores.

1986: Second Accessorize store opens.

1992: Company steps up store expansion; opens first international stores.

1998: Company floats shares on the London Stock Exchange.

2000: Company forms joint venture with Charming Shoppes in the United States.

Additional Details

Further Reference

MacAlister, Terry, 'Monsoon Launches in US,' Guardian, August 1, 2000.Menary, Steve, 'Monsoon Outlines Fresh Strategy to Revive Sales,' Financial Times, January 26, 1999.'Monsoon Postpones Pounds 250m Flotation,' Financial Times, July 11, 1996.'Monsoon Pours in Millions to Extend Reign,' Birmingham Post, January 23, 2001, p. 19.'Monsoon Rains Supreme,' Scotsman, August 1, 2000.'Monsoon Sees Strong Sales Growth at Xmas,' Investor's Chronicle, January 22, 2001.

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Monsoon plc - Company Profile, Information, Business Description, History, Background Information on Monsoon plc

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87 Lancaster RoadLondon W11 1QQUnited Kingdom The Future: Monsoon's dedicated team are committed to the continuing development of the Monsoon product ranges. They plan to grow the company further through continuing expansion in the UK and Ireland, combined with careful expansion overseas, involving joint ventures and co-owned outlets.

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Some 43% of consumers say they will be more likely to support a fashion brand or retailer post-lockdown if they have treated their staff well during the crisis.

A new study carried out exclusively for TheIndustry.fashion of 2,000 fashion shoppers of all ages across the UK also shows that 32% will also make more of an effort to support small, independent brands moving forward.

The COVID Consumer: How Fashion Shopping is being Changed for Good report also features data on who is buying fashion while in lockdown, what they are buying and what they intend to buy once restrictions on non-essential physical retail are lifted.

Almost a third of consumers (31% overall) say they have bought adult clothing during lockdown, but when the data is broken down by age group it shows that 45% of 16-24 year old have purchased clothing online since the shops were shut down and along with 40% of 25-34 year olds.

Once lockdown is over, however, 30% of consumers overall say they will buy fewer clothes but those brands and retailers who will win out are those that have behaved ethically during lockdown.

Information about a brand or retailer's approach to staff welfare is the second most requested form of communication at this time (18%) after discounts and special offers (30%).

"The enthusiasm among young consumers for fashion even while in lockdown will go some way towards explaining the robust performances from ASOS and Boohoo, which have been recently revealed. But older consumers can still be tempted to buy with the promise of a discount, as our study shows.

"However, while a unprecedented level of discounting seems almost inevitable when the shops do re-open the importance of brand values and behaviour will also be at the forefront of consumers' minds, so now is the time for brands to work on their communications," says TheIndustry.fashion Editor in Chief, Lauretta Roberts.

Research for the report was carried out by expert agency Savanta from 1-5 April 2020. The full report can be downloaded FREE of charge here.

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Post lockdown shoppers will reward brands who treat staff well during crisis - TheIndustry.fashion

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Some 43% of consumers say they will be more likely to support a fashion brand or retailer post-lockdown if they have treated their staff well during the crisis. A new study carried out exclusively for TheIndustry.fashion of 2,000 fashion shoppers of all ages across the UK also shows that 32% will also make more of an effort to support small, independent brands moving forward.

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British fashion and accessories brand Monsoon has announced "significant sustainability improvements" on all of its spring/summer 2020 collections, stating that more than 50 percent of its clothing range will be sustainable.

The admission coincides with the launch of its sustainability report, which reveals that 30 percent of all Monsoon cotton currently uses is organic, this will increase to over 70 percent for spring/summer 2020, while viscose use will also increase from 60 to 65 percent.

In addition, 70 percent of all Monsoon's jersey pieces will be sustainable, while more than 50 percent of its denim is made using sustainable materials, an area it added "keeps improving" and 50 percent of polyester used in Monsoon's knitwear is recycled.

As well as this, Monsoon is launching a 90 percent sustainable beachwear collection for spring 2020, and 65 percent of its children's beach products will also be sustainable, as part of the brand's ongoing commitment to sustainability by investing in better practices with immediate effect.

Caroline Jackson, head of design at Monsoon, said in a statement: "Ethical production has always been at the heart of Monsoon and, as we move forward, we want the sustainability of our products to become an integral part of our brand DNA.

"We are currently driving an internal revolution to implement impactful changes. We are delighted to confirm that over 50 percent of our SS20 range will be sustainable. We are also incredibly excited to be launching a 90 percent ethically sourced beach and denim collection next year."

Monsoon pledges to make all of its clothing 90 percent sustainable by 2023

Monsoon has also made a long term pledge - committing to make all of its clothing ranges "over 90 percent sustainable by 2023," as it looks to introduce new and innovative ways to reduce its environmental footprint and have a positive impact for future generations.

Jackson added: "Looking ahead to AW20, we will be using sustainable sequins and trims on our products and focusing on how we can improve all parts of the design and production process."

Sustainability has always been at the heart of Monsoon's DNA, added the brand in the report, which was highlighted by its first-ever collection made in Indian villages using hand-loomed cotton fabrics, organic vegetable dyes and artisanal block-printing techniques.

The British high street brand has launched a number of initiatives in recent years to demonstrate its dedication to working in a more sustainable way, including S.E.W, a sustainable range launched in spring/summer 2019 that was created using sustainable fabric alternatives, including responsibly sourced organic cotton and Lenzing Ecovero, a planet-friendly alternative to viscose, and denim with a reduced environmental impact in jackets and jeans, as well as trend-led midi dresses and tops in all-natural cotton.

For autumn/winter 2019, this collection has increased further to become part of the brands main range and continues to grow, and for spring/summer 2020 over 50 percent of Monsoon's main range will be made using sustainable fabrics, highlighted by the S.E.W product labels.

The Monsoon Children S.E.W range is also set to increase as the brand looks to encourage children to think sustainably from the start with its 'Love Me, Wear Me, Pass Me On' campaign, encouraging children to enjoy the clothes they wear while looking after them properly, so that they're all set for a second life once they've been outgrown.

Another initiative is 'Clothes For Life', where Monsoon encourages customers to donate clothes with the incentive of money off for their next purchase, in the hope to prevent unwanted clothes going to landfills. Unwanted Monsoon items are accepted in any Monsoon stores in exchange for an exclusive 10-pound gift voucher to spend on new purchases of 50-pound and more. The donated clothes are given to charity or recycled, with all profits going towards Newlife, a charity dedicated to changing the lives of disabled and terminally ill children across the UK.

"We are proud of the progress we have made so far. By 2023, we want to become the figurehead for sustainability within the UK high street and we are very much looking forward to achieving that goal," added Jackson.

Image: courtesy of Monsoon

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Monsoon places spotlight on sustainable for SS20

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British fashion and accessories brand Monsoon has announced "significant sustainability improvements" on all of its spring/summer 2020 collections, stating that more than 50 percent of its clothing range will be sustainable.

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We breakdown the reasons as to why loungewear is having a moment and shine a spotlight on the key trends in products and promotions.
Looking to incorporate loungewear into your assortment? The EDITED Retail Decision Platform can help businesses demystify this category by taking the guesswork out of planning, pricing and phasing assortments. Get in touch here to see EDITED in action. Why's the market growing?
* High fashion adoption as we see the likes of Gigi Hadid featured in i-D's January 'Rihannazine' and British Vogue's Editor Sarah Harris spotted at London Fashion Week sporting a tracksuit. The Kardashian and Jenner clan are poster girls for the off-duty look, where Kim Kardashian-West worked loungewear into her SKIMs brand.

* The 'Netflix & Chill' generation are less about FOMO and more about JOMO - the joy of missing out. Meme-focused Instagram accounts frequently feature posts poking fun at never wanting to go out and avoiding socializing. This goes hand-in-hand with mental health-focused conversations as people are happy to label themselves introverts and simply stay in versus going out.

* The Scandi Hygge movement has resonated over the past few years and remains an influence as well-being takes center stage.

* With relaxed shapes, loungewear lends well to the idea of genderless products. This aligns with the gender-neutrality movement - a subject that Calvin Klein resurrected in its CK1 Everyone campaign. Matching sets also appeal to those in relationships who are prone to sharing 'couple goals' or 'twinning' posts.

* Nostalgia plays a role, ranging from the laid-back tomboy side of '90s sitcom characters such as Rachel Green or pop-icon Aaliyah. There is an overlay with sportswear and logos, where branding is important.

* John Lewis saw a spike in loungewear sales in 2019 and cited working from home as a factor. Growing flexibility in the workplace will continue to drive this further.

How's the category being communicated?

Analyzing communications and stories with the Visual Merchandising feature of the EDITED Retail Decision Platform identifies growth in the mentions of 'lounge'/'loungewear' in emails across the US and UK.

Other related terms:

'Relax' was mentioned at 72 retailers

'Chill' was mentioned at 60 retailers

'Lounge/loungewear' was mentioned at 55 retailers

'Comfy' was mentioned at 52 retailers

'Cozy' was mentioned at 45 retailers

The biggest loungewear trends

Two piece co-ords/tracksuits: Rising 10% YoY across the US and UK combined, Missguided and Anthropologie are the biggest investors. The trend has encouraged consumers to buy sets rather than separates. Tracksuits are an easy starting point and are likely to already be in your offerings.
2019 Top Movers:
Cashmere: A fiber that transcends categories, retailers increased their investments in cashmere during Fall 2019. With the emphasis on self-care across loungewear, luxurious fabrics are essential to the 'treat yourself' motto. Cashmere was key for joggers and sweaters with Marks & Spencer, Jigsaw and J.Crew as the top stockists.
2019 Top Movers:
Slippers: Furry slippers have been trending on social media since the lead up to Christmas. Arrivals remained consistent YoY for fall, with Dillards and Marisota as the key investors in each region. Slider and mule shapes were the top performing styles, but also consider bed socks as an entry-level buy-in to this category.
2019 Top Movers:
Cardigans: Spurred on by Katie Holmes' viral moment wearing a Khaite cashmere bra and cardigan set, this item is a must-have within loungewear assortments. Zara's version of the cardigan saw its first sell out within three days of launching and has inspired mass retailers to invest in the trend. Look to soft colors such as oatmeals and pastel shades.
2019 Top Movers:
Joggers: The classic cosy style rose 18% YoY last season, heavily backed by mass market retailers in both drawstring and elasticated styles. Emulating Kanye West's Yeezy collection, muted tones of beiges and greys are favored. For a more directional story, popper details add '90s cred while bike shorts are emerging as an alternative.
2019 Top Movers:
Teddy: Borg and teddy textures continued to be strong in outerwear and are trickling into loungewear. The KKW Skims Cozy Collection, which included robes, shorts, tanks and sweatpants in four colorways, has inspired retailers such as Fashion Nova to incorporate fuzzy fabrics into their lounge assortments.
2019 Top Movers:
Robes: Seeing particular investment in the US market, the dressing gown is a staple within loungewear. To elevate the item, look to luxe fabrications such as silk and cashmere to offer products at a more premium pricing interval.
2019 Top Movers:
Silk: In the lead up to Christmas, silk pajamas and robes flooded the market as it was promoted as an essential gift. Advertising luxury with ease, Everlane launched a machine washable set in two colorways. To add this material at a lower price point, consider it for trims or eye masks.
2019 Top Movers:
Micro trends: While the adult onesie trend from the '00s is yet to stage a comeback, bodysuits and unitards are noted in this space. Missguided frequently styles its bodysuits with joggers, emulating the look to wear loungewear clothes to go out. Last year, Emily Ratajowski added ribbed cotton bodysuits to her Inamorata collection, which bordered both loungewear. Oversized tees and shirts are another avenue to promote 'sheets to streets' dressing. Look to the ethical brand, The Sleep Shirt as its hero product is designed to be worn both day and night.

The velour verdict

Although retailers such as Missguided and Free People backed this fabrication last fall, velour tracksuits and loungewear didn't return to their former glory. Velour loungewear only experienced majority sell through after seeing a reduction where the US and UK market closed the year with 63% and 44% of its fall/winter styles reduced at an average of 40-45% respectively.

However, as nostalgia continues to lend itself to fashion trends, velour tracksuits have been promoted in Nike and Fashion Nova's communications. As mentioned earlier, new jackets and sweaters have arrived at Topshop and & Other Stories. Watch this space.

Sustainable efforts

In the mass market, loungewear that promotes environmental and ethical practices are minimal. Brands that have sustainability woven into their ethos, such as Everlane which tap into this category through pajamas and sweats, stand out as the leaders here. Last year, Nasy Gal launched a range of recycled loungewear.

Cult brands to note include Australian brand Boody, which sell everyday essentials from organically-grown bamboo for the whole family, as well as Pact, a certified B Corp that offers 100% organic cotton products and works to promote transparency across its entire supply chain.

Opportunity for airport dressing

An aspirational styling aesthetic for consumers, many celebrities often share images of their airport outfits and in-flight style on Instagram. The likes of MissPap, boohoo, Free People and Banana Republic all sent airport-themed edits in their 2019 vacation communications offering a prime chance to promote loungewear. Missguided and Topshop even included this as a category in menu drop-downs last summer.

Utilize this messaging to promote loungewear pieces not usually aligned with summer months and vacation edits - think jersey basics, joggers and tracksuits. Other products also featured chunky sneakers, sliders and sunglasses.

Fall 2020 runway inspiration

The Fall 2020 collections offered plenty of loungewear inspiration. Duvet dressing was a prominent story to emerge with voluminous silhouettes and quilted, padded fabrics central to the theme. Layering has been a key styling aesthetic, alongside tonal dressing which can work well for two-piece lounge suits.

Also suited to lounge and nightwear, there's been a renewed interest in capes and ponchos from designers including Sies Marjan, Rag & Bone and Burberry.
Contributions by Katharine Carter, Kayla Marci and Rebecca Milne.

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Generation 'Netflix & Chill' and the rise of loungewear | EDITED | The Retail Data Platform

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We breakdown the reasons as to why loungewear is having a moment and shine a spotlight on the key trends in products and promotions. Looking to incorporate loungewear into your assortment? The EDITED Retail Decision Platform can help businesses demystify this category by taking the guesswork out of planning, pricing and phasing assortments.

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Federal states will decide on realisation of exhibitions on basis of hygiene and distance regulations The German federal states will decide in future, as of when exhibitions can be realised, if guidelines for hygiene and personal distance are fulfilled. Government and federal states agreed May 6th 2020 that simultaneously, exhibitions will no longer be regarded as mass events.

Jörn Holtmeier, managing director of AUMA - Association of the German Trade Fair Industry - says: "This is an important step in direction of rebooting the trade fair industry. As exhibitions are plat- forms for innovation and cooperation, they will stimulate the recov- ery of the German economy in the short and medium run." The German exhibition organisers and AUMA, too, are prepared to pro- vide the responsible authorities with expertise and experience con- cerning the realisation of exhibitions. For this purpose, AUMA has already prepared recommendations that meet the high demands for hygiene and personal distance.

The step-by-step reopening of hotels and restaurants, planned by the federal states, is an important signal for exhibitions, says Jörn Holt- meier. The reopening of borders and the resumption of transna- tional business traffic, too, are crucial for the success of exhibitions in the second half of the year.

Pictures: https://www.auma.de/en/media/reports/press-2020-17

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association of the german trade fair industry

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German politics sends first signals for trade fair restart

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Please click here if you are not redirected within a few seconds. Partner | Federal states will decide on realisation of exhibitions on basis of hygiene and distance regulations The German federal states will decide in future, as of when exhibitions can be realised, if guidelines for hygiene and personal distance are fulfilled.

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In order to survive in the lockdown, UK fashion retailers will have to show they can adapt to changing consumer needs. With clothing sales likely to decline even after restrictions are lifted, how can the fashion industry best adjust to this 'new normal'?

A strong decline in sales

Next's latest trading update highlights t he severe impact that COVID-19 is having, and will continue to have, on the UK fashion sector. The retailer has warned that the retail sales decline has been faster and steeper than it anticipated, and that it will lead to significantly lower performance in both the first and second halves of the year. Next's 32% fall in full price online sales was clearly impacted by its decision to close its warehouses and halt online sales for 18 days. This, however, gave it the time to re-organise its warehousing to ensure safety and social distancing, and has allowed it to be more prepared for the surge in demand it has seen since it reopened its online site on 14 April.

As one of the biggest clothing retailers in the UK, Next's sales results act as a bellwether for the UK fashion market. Many retailers can expect sales to continue to decline heavily, even once the full lockdown has been lifted, due to the disruption from continued social distancing and the economic consequences of the crisis, as it might take time for customers to return to their normal shopping habits. While Next is in a secure financial situation, many other fashion retailers in a less stable position will also have seen a similar drop in sales, and based on an expected prolonged decline that will last for at least the rest of the year, they are likely to find it much more difficult to recover.

Retailers need to adapt

As people continue to work from home, fashion is less likely to be seen as a spending priority. Fashion retailers will need to proactively approach the upcoming months and efficiently manage inventory, as sales drop and consumers prioritise essential items. Certain categories, such as loungewear and nightwear, are likely to benefit as people seek out more comfortable clothing to wear around the house.

Independent retailers could offer customers a more bespoke online service and may be able to be more flexible at a time when large online deliveries may be disrupted. In China, we saw sales assistants setting up social media WeChat groups with VIP customers for exclusive online fashion shows, and there is scope for higher-end fashion stores and luxury brands to offer something similar in the UK via WhatsApp.

Retailers need to spread their supply chains

Once the lockdown is over, retailers are going to struggle to sell Spring/Summer stock, so there is likely to be heavy discounting to encourage people to buy. However, many retailers have cancelled future orders and this will inevitably have a huge impact on global supply chains and could push factories in developing countries to the brink of collapse. This could impact availability of Autumn/Winter 2020 fashion, although many of the large retailers have spread the risk by having factories in different parts of the world and so can shift manufacturing.

Luxury fashion brands are most likely to see their supply chains impacted as many rely on textile suppliers and garment manufacturers in Italy, which has been in complete lockdown for a prolonged period.

Brands can show they are helping society

There is a growing need for some businesses to shift manufacturing and investment into supporting wider society. We are seeing some fashion businesses responding to these demands. LVMH, the parent company of luxury brands including Louis Vuitton, has started producing hand sanitiser to deal with the shortage. Dolce & Gabbana has partnered with Humanitas University to fund a coronavirus research project, while Giorgio Armani, Prada and luxury group Kering have all donated money to hospitals and to help the fight against the virus. In the UK, womenswear brand Three Graces London donated all of its net sales between 18 March and 1 April to homeless charity Crisis to help the most vulnerable amid the COVID-19 outbreak.

Consumers care how brands act, with Mintel research showing that most consumers would think twice about buying from a designer brand that acts in a way they disagree with. Mintel Trend On Displa y highlights how, in the digital world, brands have to become aware that all of their actions are magnified.

Brands that show empathy and support consumers during these unprecedented times are likely to be viewed favourably once the COVID-19 outbreak has passed.

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COVID-19 is putting huge pressure on UK fashion

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In order to survive in the lockdown, UK fashion retailers will have to show they can adapt to changing consumer needs. With clothing sales likely to decline even after restrictions are lifted, how can the fashion industry best adjust to this 'new normal'?

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About YouGov

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At the heart of our company is a global online community, where millions of people and thousands of political, cultural and commercial organizations engage in a continuous conversation about their beliefs, behaviours and brands.

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About YouGov At the heart of our company is a global online community, where millions of people and thousands of political, cultural and commercial organizations engage in a continuous conversation about their beliefs, behaviours and brands.

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Multiple retailer store closures in the UK rose by 79% in 2019 to almost 6,000, the Centre for Retail Research reported. Director Joshua Bamfield attributed the closures to high costs, low profitability, and the rapid growth of online, and cited the lack of investment in stores coupled with weak forward planning.

As store portfolios continue to shrink, and shoppers turn increasingly online, retailers have to change their strategy to keep bricks-and-mortar shopping appealing. Drapers speaks to leading retail design agencies and retailers, and finds that conveying purpose, creating community and embracing digital will be central in weathering the changing climate.

Give it a purpose

Shoppers want to buy from a brand whose values are aligned with theirs, and this is becoming more relevant as issues such as sustainably shift further into the public's focus.

"Stores give a brand the opportunity to demonstrate its purpose - something that's increasingly important with today's savvy and demanding consumer," says Paul West, strategy director at retail design agency Dalziel & Pow. "Brands are putting less emphasis on the right flooring and lighting options and more emphasis on telling their authentic story."

Adam Brinkworth, CEO of retail design agency Brinkworth, agrees: "The most significant change in the role of store design in recent years is the increased need for brands to build relationships with their customers and to offer [a space] that allows the customer to have a meaningful connection with both the brand, and each other."

Timberland's "purpose-led", sustainable store on London's Carnaby Street (pictured above), which opened last November, does just that. Designed in partnership with Dalziel & Pow, the 2,594 sq ft space brings Timberland's CSR strategy to life with towering pillars in store referencing the brand's use of recycled materials, community projects and technological innovations within its products.

Other features include a transparent "community table" in the centre of the store, which gives examples of how small actions have driven notable change in the communities such as the "urban greening" practice of planting trees in cities.

Alison Cardy, managing director at retail design agency HMKM, says the "long-overdue embrace of sustainability is the most striking trend" in store design for the coming decade: "Our recent project with [US] charitable fashion brand Olivela is a good example of how to best allow customers to see in sharp detail the direct impact for good that each item in store can have in the world. As a customer picks up key products, a focused digital point of sale describes the product provenance."

Olivela contributes funds to girls' education and other charitable causes with every purchase, and the store in Aspen, Colorado, also creates an "Instagrammable" moment in which a wall projection thanks the customer by name and displays the number of school days paid for.

Retailers should consider also consider "brand frustration" to give their store portfolios longevity, says Adam Devey Smith, managing partner of creative design agency The One Off: "Valuable insight gained from customers [during work with Frasers Group] enabled us to really understand brand perception and frustration, meaning we were able to implement a strategy that would evolve the brand for a new generation of consumers.

"The nature of fast fashion and sport as a sector means that any one store design can no longer stay the same. Cookie-cutter stores will not stand up, and a flexible element is crucial to ensure successful future-proofing for the Sports Direct brand."

Build it and they will come

With brand purpose also comes a focus on community for the next generation of retail stores.

" There has always been a strong need to socialise as part of a store visit - beyond just going through racks of garments - but today, stores are not always providing this experience, particularly in the high street," says Carlos Virgile, director at retail design specialist Virgile & Partners. Looking forward, as "the mere existence of physical stores seems to be challenged" Virgile explains store design will play a bigger role in "creating a new type of environment that provides stronger emotional interaction and create a sense of community."

"A major factor for us is creating stores with a 'neighbourhood' feel," Paul Horne, head of store design for H&M in the UK and Ireland, tells Drapers. "We want our stores to integrate seamlessly into the locations they exist in, and, most importantly, we need to make sure that they deliver on what a specific customer is looking for."

This means being more selective in stock allocation, he explains: "It's no longer about how many products we can fit into a store. It's much more important to streamline what we make available and make it easier for the customer to find the things we think they'll really want."

The bigger a brand gets, the more beneficial it is for them to act smaller

Paul West, Dalziel & Pow

An example of this is the refit under way on H&M's Oxford Street East store. The new concept will be a global first to focus on a younger customer group with emphasis on its Divided collections.

It follows the relaunch of the retailer's Hammersmith store at the end of 2018. The concept store in Kings Mall tested initiatives such as garment repair service Take Care, interactive fitting room screens and a warmer tone for the fit out with greenery and a wrought iron staircase in the place of escalators to give "the look and feel of a modern neighbourhood store".

For global heavyweights such as H&M, it is becoming increasingly important to approach store design in this "glocal" way, says Dalziel & Pow's West: "The bigger a brand gets, the more beneficial it is for them to act smaller, offering a more personalised and localised brand experience."

Anthropologie has taken this approach under managing director of international, Peter Ruis. In April, the lifestyle retailer unveiled its new local store strategy which will open doors in strategic, smaller "neighbourhood locations". Since debuting in Tunbridge Wells in April last year, the concept has been rolling out across the UK with an opening in Winchester in December and an upcoming Oxford launch.

It is a change that has been driven by ecommerce, says Ruis: "In a world where you can get everything online, and your website is your bestselling store with your biggest amount of choice, you have to change your retail strategy to bring your stores and experience to people so that it feels like a part of their normal life, as opposed to a designated shopping trip into a specific place."

Anthropologie's new stores also embed local heritage into their design. In its Winchester store, it has incorporated the building's history as the town's first "talkie" cinema with vintage chairs and projections.

"There tends to be a local artist involved in some way in every single store," says Ruis. "We build all the windows and our seasonal changes by hand using old-fashioned techniques like collage and papier mache. Historically, we would ship materials in from the US for the shop fit, but now we design all the stores individually and locally, so we are able to adapt to the architecture much more."

Value retailer Primark is also focusing on the local. The retailer's massive 160,000 sq ft Birmingham store has Brummie slang plastered on the walls, alongside maps of local landmarks, and customers can bag locally inspired products made specifically for that branch.

Online partnerships

To survive the rise of ecommerce, retail store design should collaborate with digital channels, rather than compete.

Adidas's London flagship on Oxford Circus is a good example of physical, human and digital integration, says Tahira Taylor, strategy director at retail and brand consultancy Fitch: "The wider shopping experience is digitally integrated to make shopping in store feel better than it would at home. The changing rooms use RFID (radio frequency identification) technology to recognise products, and the store's 'Bring It to Me' feature uses in-store geolocation tracking to provide an uninterrupted browsing experience from the store to your app."

The flagship also acts as an important source of marketing for new launches through features such as the current front-of-store takeover to celebrate the latest release of its Predator 20+ Mutator football boot, which was produced in partnership with Fitch.

"Today, stores are not only a vital tool for building trust and positive human relationships - they can also be used to drive traffic to online," says Dalziel & Pow's West. "Modern brands and retailers should be joining the dots and achieving connectivity across physical and digital channels. The most effective way to drive traffic online is by creating an environment that reflects the brand and gives people the right desire to discover."

To futureproof their stores, retailers must cash in on customers' desire for a sense of belonging and their new local shopping habits. Community-focused and detail-orientated designs will build lasting relationships and nurture omnichannel customers.

"To me [a retail store] is and always will be the perfect invention," says Anthropologie's Ruis. "It will obviously adapt and develop, and there might not be as many as there used to be, but I think it plays a really important life in the social fabric of every single town in Britain."

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Change in store: future-proofing bricks and mortar

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Multiple retailer store closures in the UK rose by 79% in 2019 to almost 6,000, the Centre for Retail Research reported. Director Joshua Bamfield attributed the closures to high costs, low profitability, and the rapid growth of online, and cited the lack of investment in stores coupled with weak forward planning.

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Britain has been in lockdown for eight weeks.

April experienced the worst like-for-like retail sales in history, falling by 19.1%, showed the British Retail Consortium's (BRC) and KPMG's monitor, which started in 1995.

Unable to visit stores, ecommerce is for now the only channel open to fashion shoppers until stores slowly start to reopen from 1 June, but even digital has taken a hit. While online retail sales as a whole reached a 10-year high in April, up 23.8% year on year in the latest IMRG Capgemini Retail Index, clothing sales plummeted by 23.8%. Footwear and menswear sales were particularly badly hit, slumping by 31.1% and 33.5% respectively.

People have learnt to live with the bare essentials and will realise they don't need clothes all the time

Chloe Collins, senior retail analyst at GlobalData

The population's spending power has been reduced by widespread job losses, mass furloughing and reductions to working hours.Covid-19 will cause the value of the UK clothing and footwear industry to contract 34% in 2020 to £35.5bn, predicts GlobalData, based on the reopening of stores from 1 June.

But there is hope. British knitwear brand WoolOvers unexpectedly doubled sales in April, which CEO Mike Lester attributes to communication with customers, and demonstrates shopper demand for both human contact and product. (Read WoolOvers Comment: "We invited customers to give us a call and have a chat ")

And in markets that opened in mid-May, eager consumers queued up to start spending. On 11 May - the day retail reopened in Belgium - there were queues of shoppers outside Brussels branches of Primark and Zara. Shoppers also lined up outside at Inditex owned-brand's shops in Paris, Lyon and Bordeaux. Luxury label Louis Vuitton attracted a queue at its Champs-Élysées store when it reopened in the French capital on the same day.

Emotional attachment

But there is hope. Fashion as a form of escapism and comfort will be a key factor of emotional recovery after the coronavirus, argues Isabelle Szmigin, professor of marketing at the University of Birmingham and deputy dean of Birmingham Business School.

People are quick to forget when trauma happens and want the same comforts they had before

Chana Baram, senior retail analyst at Mintel

"The majority of people will go back to normal, if they can afford to. They will want to forget what has been happening and shopping is a way to express this.

"Consumer culture is too ingrained for this crisis to make much of a difference - although, doubtless some people will become more mindful in their consumption."

Chana Baram, senior retail analyst at Mintel, agrees that fashion purchases may provide some comfort for consumers once the crisis subsides: "People are quick to forget when trauma happens and want the same comforts they had before.

"Consumers will get back to normal very quickly, but some changes will stick. Shoppers are questioning what the essentials are and therefore buying more basics or classic items rather than trend-led pieces, which may continue after coronavirus."

Glen Tooke, consumer insight director at Kantar Worldpanel, concurs: "The longer the lockdown lasts, the more consumers' need for new clothes increases. But there is also more potential for consumers to realise they can make do with what they have."

Top priorities

Drapers' own coronavirus survey asked participants how much of a priority fashion spending will be for consumers after lockdown. More than half (57%) said it will not be very important, while 11% said it will not be important at all.

The owner of one fashion retailer says: "There will be a huge re-evaluation of what is necessary, financial and ethical concerns, and global consequences."

Spending on experiences, rather than clothes, is likely to be consumers' priority once the lockdown is lifted, believes Chloe Collins, senior retail analyst at GlobalData: "Consumers will want to go out and won't want to spend time shopping. They will have realigned priorities, such as social events and holidays. Fashion won't be one of them.

There will be a huge re-evaluation of what is necessary, financial and ethical concerns, and global consequences

Fashion retailer owner

"People will want to make sure that they have savings behind them. They have learnt to live with the bare essentials and will realise they don't need clothes all the time. Consumers will want to go out [socially] and won't want to spend time shopping. Plus they will still be cautious of crowded areas such as high streets and shopping centres."

Emily Gordon-Smith, director of consumer product at trend forecasting agency Stylus, believes sustainable shopping habits will "gain momentum": "Who hasn't been excited reading about the lower levels of pollution and nature having some respite during the lockdown? It's potentially the only positive outcome [of coronavirus] and this will drive the sustainability agenda forward."

Mashu is a London-based handbag brand that uses sustainable materials such as Piñatex, which is made from pineapple plant leaves and hemp. Founder Ioanna Topouzoglou agrees that there will be less of a focus on consumption.

"Being isolated at home has made everyone, including myself, more appreciative of everything we once took for granted. Perhaps simpler times lie ahead, where we realise we don't need to consume as much as we did before, and that we can live with less. I am hopeful that we all become more mindful consumers after this."

Mark Dransfield, owner of independent department store Sandersons Boutique Store in Fox Valley, Sheffield, thinks consumer spending will be "more cautious", adding: "But the fashion industry is incredibly resilient and a huge part of the economy. Shoppers are already starting to look at more sustainable fashion and less of the throwaway brands, and at Sandersons that's something we're very keen to champion."

He adds that while consumers may be wary of venturing into physical shops at first, "essentially social animals and that human contact is incredibly important ... I think a return to 'normal' shopping patterns will most definitely be gradual and there will be measures in place for the foreseeable future that will affect how people shop and visit centres like ours."

Shoppers are already starting to look at more sustainable fashion and less of the throwaway brands

Mark Dransfield, owner of independent department store Sandersons Boutique Store

Gordon-Smith continues: "More consumers will have learnt how to appreciate what they have and cut back - people might have lost their jobs so people will buy less stuff. I think we will see the ongoing impact of people buying less, there will be less spend and less money around."

Careful spending is a theory echoed by Mintel's Baram, who thinks consumer confidence will be low as the pandemic would have been "financially devastating for many": "Shoppers will think twice about buying something they only wear once, but the younger demographic will still buy from fast fashion brands."

Szmigin agrees that shopping mindfully might not become prevalent among the younger, under-25 demographic: "Many of them will have been effectively locked up with no opportunity to physically be with their peers, so there may be a short period at least, of quite hedonistic shopping for those who can afford it."

She continues: "There may actually be a resurgence in the high street. People will want to be out, socialising and doing things they have not been able to such as browsing, looking, feeling the texture of things."

Shops with good customer experiences and service will "stand out", says Baram, adding that "people will miss going into the shop and having it [their purchase] the same day".

Businesses who are acting like nothing has changed may well see a change in consumer loyalty and brand perception

Mashu founder Ioanna Topouzoglou

Retailers that have joined the relief effort will be the benefactors of consumers' spending resurgence. Stylus's Gordon-Smith argues that "philanthropic enterprises from brands will resonate going forward".

This is already tangible.

In April and May so far, Mashu sales have grown 20%, which Topouzoglou attributes to the brand's support of charities, as well as consumers' desire to shop from small businesses.

Mashu is donating 15% from all sales of its products to two charities that are helping in the wake of the coronavirus. The beneficiaries are Help Them Help Us, which is assisting NHS staff by delivering meals and PPE equipment, and Bankuet, which helps stock food banks across the UK.

Milan-based vegan footwear brand Yatay announced on Instagram on 3 April that will donate a pair of shoes to the city's Humanitas Research Hospital for every pair sold. Founder Umberto de Marco says online sales rose by 70% in the four days following the announcement.

He tells Drapers: "Coronavirus had consequences on consumers shopping habits, but not all necessarily negative: I'm hoping that we're going to see an improved consumer sensibility in buying better and longer lasting products"

From 1 April, sustainable footwear brand Toms is giving one third of its net profit to its Covid-19 Global Giving Fund, which has partnered with multiple charities, including WaterAid.

Chief giving officer Amy Smith says: "We have seen how rapidly things are changing because of this global health crisis and have speculated what it means for the longer term. Because we are in the heart of the crisis, it is difficult to really know how individuals and businesses will need to adjust once we are on the other side of this.

"Our customers have always been part of the Toms mission of using business to improve lives."

Topouzoglou says: "Businesses who are acting like nothing has changed, and not acknowledging the current crisis, may well see a change in consumer loyalty and brand perception.

"Every business and service is supported by consumers in some way. In a time like this, consumers are looking to brands to return that support and help their communities in a way that matters most right now."

Baram predicts that consumers will turn their backs on flashy, expensive luxury goods, as they did in the 2008 recession: "It became distasteful for people to have big brands."

There will always be a need for clothing - consumers will still want to treat themselves

Gordon-Smith concurs that the luxury market willsee a "more reserved approach"that "feels more appropriate in a post-pandemic climate." She forecasts that there will be a shift away from logos in favour of a more modest, minimalist trend.

Sustainability will be key for the future of the fashion industry, but the supply of continuously new product will continue, thinks Szmigin, as there will be demand from manufacturers and consumers to "get back to the old normal." She also predicts a "big return" to advertising as it will be an even more competitive environment.

Recovery for retail

As for consumer spending habits, "there won't be one behaviour", states Tooke, "It very much is a case-by-case basis - a lot would depend on every household's personal financial situation."

But the frivolity and feel-good factor of fashion is a potential advantage for the industry.

"There will always be a need for clothing - consumers will still want to treat themselves," Tooke continues. "If eating out is one of the first sectors to open, consumers will still want to dress up to do so."

The road to recovery for retail will be long. GlobalData forecasts that the UK clothing and footwear market will rebound by 43.5% in 2021 to a spend of £50.9bn, but this will still be £2.9bn less than 2019 when the market was worth £53.8bn. Brands have to fight to win what could be a limited amount of consumer spend. Fashion retailers that have been considerate to the crisis will benefit from shoppers' trust, as will sustainable products.

On the other hand, bricks-and-mortar retailers may experience a rush when housebound shoppers are finally able to flex their legs - and wallets. Fashion will endure, thanks to the desire for consumers to comfort themselves with exciting new purchases.

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What will post-pandemic shopping patterns look like?

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Britain has been in lockdown for eight weeks. April experienced the worst like-for-like retail sales in history, falling by 19.1%, showed the British Retail Consortium's (BRC) and KPMG's monitor, which started in 1995. Unable to visit stores, ecommerce is for now the only channel open to fashion shoppers until stores slowly start to reopen from 1 June, but even digital has taken a hit.

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Sitting in empty shops and piling up in distribution centres, excess stock has become a multibillion-pound problem for fashion retail as the coronavirus pandemic continues to decimate trade.

Last week, Next revealed that a "fast and steep " drop in sales has left the business with "a lot more stock" clogging up warehouses than previously anticipated. It warned this could inhibit operations and prevent it from being able to take in new product.

To mitigate the risk, Next has started to use third-party storage facilities and is holding some stock in source countries, at an estimated additional cost of £2m. It has also cancelled £450m of orders.

The industry is facing the largest stock clearance in a century

Chris Griffin, CEO of flash Sale site SecretSales

Primark owner Associated British Foods has written down the value of the chain's stock by £284m to reflect realistic pricing when stores reopen.

A key question for fashion retailers now is what to do with all that excess inventory.

Cancelling orders and carrying unsold stock over into future seasons is one solution to the stock conundrum. Next has identified £330m worth of spring 20 stock - mostly basic products, such as summer T-shirts and chinos - that can be carried over to next year.

However, retailers are still likely to be left with a glut of seasonal, trend-led product that has a short shelf life, and many fear this will lead to aggressive - and potentially brand-damaging - discounting.

"The industry is facing the largest stock clearance in a century," warns Chris Griffin, CEO of flash Sale site SecretSales and former director of ecommerce at Superdry.

"The longer the lockdown lasts, the larger the stock issue becomes. Retailers need to find a way of clearing stock that enhances, rather than damages, their brand equity. Constant discounting on your own platform devalues your brand and your full-price stock.It becomes a spiral.

It will be a Sale to remember for consumers, but the questions facing retailers are very difficult

Raffy Kassardjian, founder of Parker Lane Group

"Retailers need to take a strategic approach that spans different geographies and not flood a single international market with product, particularly as this is likely to be an issue that affects several seasons."

Raffy Kassardjian, founder of Parker Lane Group, which works with retailers to redistribute unsold stock, agrees: "It will be a Sale to remember for consumers, but the questions facing retailers are very difficult. How much stock are you going to be able to shift in a few months when you have missed the peak of the season?

"Warehouses are beginning to fill up with autumn 20 product, putting logistics and warehouse capacity under pressure."

Discounting routes

Selling through off-price channels is one option. A report on the impact of coronavirus on retail by management consultancy McKinsey & Company last month points to the benefits for off-price retailers such as The Outnet, Yoox and McArthurGlen.

The report also argues a new wave of discount digital players will emerge to seize the excess stock opportunity. At the end of April, Chinese ecommerce giant Tmall launched an online outlet, Luxury Soho, which is aimed at premium and luxury brands.

The size of the Chinese market is just vast and there's a real opportunity there

Sarah Curran-Usher, entrepreneur and a non-executive director at French Connection,

Some brands are also launching their own off-price platforms and flash Sale events to move excess stock. This prevents discounted product sitting side by side with full-price inventory.

Contemporary womenswear brand Ganni, for example, launched a six-day pop-up digital Sale at the end of April offering discounts of up to 70% on 400 items. The brand will donate 20% of profits to UN Women projects that support female health workers on the frontline of the pandemic.

Fellow womenswear label Lazy Oaf has relaunched its "Oaflet" discount channel, where it is offering customers up to 80% off.

Selling unwanted stock in other countries is another avenue. Although coronavirus has hit nations around the globe, some international markets have been less affected or are recovering more quickly than the UK.

Business partners Sarah Curran-Usher, entrepreneur and a non-executive director at French Connection, and Nicola Mathews, a former brand director at Ted Baker and Pentland Brands, are collaborating with John Lau, founder of Chinese commerce specialist Ecargo, on a project to help brands and retailers move unsold stock from the UK into the Chinese market.

"The size of the Chinese market is just vast and there's a real opportunity there," explains Curran-Usher.

We teamed up with some other sustainable brands to order some of the abandoned stock

Dea Baker, founder Aqua Rock

"I have been on the other side of the desk as a retailer myself [Curran-Usher was previously managing director at Very's designer discount channel Very Exclusive and founded My-Wardrobe] and know how big the stock challenge facing retailers is. When moving unsold stock to other countries, retailers have to think carefully about matching the stock to the right retail partner and the right consumer - you don't want to end up just transferring the problem."

She adds that in the long term, the pandemic could provide the industry with a valuable opportunity to rethink its approach to stock: "The reality is the industry has not necessarily bought [according] to consumer demand and has been left with excess stock season after season. This could force the industry to look at how to buy more efficiently to reflect the fact that consumers are much more about 'buy now, wear now', and to rethink old patterns."

Mathews adds: "You need to keep that stock moving to be able to pay your teams and your rent. Stock is a huge asset and if you can't find a way to turn into cash then it becomes a ticking clock."

Parker Lane Group's Kassardjian points to opportunities in closer markets: "Some markets have been less affected by the pandemic than others - north African markets, such as Egypt and Tunisia, are easing restrictions, and there's also been interest in unsold stock from eastern European markets, such as Poland."

Donating products to good causes is another option for those left with too much stock, argues Ronen Lazar, co-founder and CEO of Inturn - a platform that helps retailers manage their inventory.

Even before the pandemic, some brands were choosing to support charitable causes and move excess stock. Burberry, for example, has donated product to Smart Works, which provides free clothes and training for unemployed women with an upcoming job interview. Boden has donated more than £770,000 of clothing to 15 NHS trusts across the UK.

"Donation is an interesting option," says Lazar. "These are tough times for everyone, so rather than letting inventory sit and incurring costs to hold it, retailers could donate product to those who really need it. It may not be at the top of retailers' minds at the moment, because of the current challenges, but the sustainability issue will be even more pronounced coming out of pandemic. Retailers will need to double down on reducing waste."

Buying power

Excess stock is providing opportunities for some. Debenhams has been purchasing discounted stock unwanted by other retailers to help fill gaps in its seasonal ranges, although the department store would not confirm whether the stock comes from new or existing suppliers and brand partners.

Some smaller brands are also finding innovative solutions to help mop up excess stock in the market. Sustainable brand Aqua Rock, which usually produces womenswear and accessories made from waste plastic, has created a range of T-shirts made from cancelled stock produced by factories in Bangladesh. All profits will go to charities that support the NHS.

"The yarn we use in our normal product range comes from a supplier in Spain and a supplier in Italy, both of whom have had to temporarily stop operations," explains founder Dea Baker.

"We teamed up with some other sustainable brands to order some of the abandoned stock - it means that the factories are able to pay workers and it helps us survive what is a very difficult time. We hope that other brands will join us and that we can expand the project, which has had a great reaction from European boutiques now able to resume trading in Germany and the Netherlands."

Retailers have a relatively short window to sell spring and summer stock in a period where demand is likely to remain low due to the economic impact of the coronavirus pandemic.

Heavy discounting is inevitable, but risks perpetuating the already-vicious cycle of constant promotions in fashion. Retailers should look to the opportunities in off-price and international markets, to clear some of the stock without damaging their brand equity.

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What can retailers do with their spring 20 stock mountain?

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Sitting in empty shops and piling up in distribution centres, excess stock has become a multibillion-pound problem for fashion retail as the coronavirus pandemic continues to decimate trade. Last week, Next revealed that a "fast and steep " drop in sales has left the business with "a lot more stock" clogging up warehouses than previously anticipated.

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Not since 1939 have the worlds of fashion and luxury so completely ground to a halt. Stores are closed, orders cancelled, factories shut or repurposed to make PPE. The summer fashion shows have been called off, and it looks increasingly unlikely the September fashion weeks will go ahead - brands such as Saint Laurent and Tory Burch have already cancelled their shows.

No question, the Covid-19 pandemic has ushered in a reckoning for the £2.2tn fashion and luxury industries - much of it around sustainability (and fashion's lack thereof). What will emerge? Could a more responsible sector - one less damaging to the environment, that goes further to ensure the welfare of its workforce - materialise in its wake?

Environmentalists are certainly hoping so. The fashion industry has been making far too much for far too long. Clothing production has become so cost-effective at scale that brands would rather over-manufacture by 30 to 40 per cent than risk running out of stock. Much of that excess ends up incinerated or in landfills - Burberry famously burnt £28.6m in bags, clothes and perfume in 2017 to prevent them from being stolen or sold for too little (a practice it has since halted).

Since Europe went into lockdown, designers and executives from Giorgio Armani to Vetements' Guram Gvasalia have been calling for change. They want their peers to produce less and less often. They want customers to buy more at full-price, and are petitioning retailers to realign the sales calendar so that summer sandals and dresses are discounted at the end of the season, in late September, rather than June. (Right now, flush with excess inventory, they are holding sales earlier than ever.) They are asking for an end to retail contracts where designers are given no order deposits and no security, and which leave designers financially liable for what stores can't sell at full price.

Many of these demands are wishful thinking. Independent designers will not secure better terms with retailers, who will be more beholden to creditors and big brands - and less able to make risky bets on lesser-known names - than before. Nor will suppliers obtain better terms with designers - with so few orders coming in, brands will be asking for discounts, and they will get them. Garment workers will in turn find it even more difficult to secure a living wage.

Changes under way prior to the pandemic will accelerate. The big luxury brands, backed by even bigger conglomerates - namely LVMH and Kering - will rebound first and capture even more market share. The few globally recognised names that maintained their independence in the wake of the 2008 crisis - Prada, Ferragamo, Burberry, Tod's - may take a look at their balance sheets and reconsider. Department stores will continue to consolidate and disappear - not just in North America, but perhaps also in Europe, which is more dependent on tourists.

Chinese shoppers, who were already shopping more at home following VAT cuts and a crackdown on daigou (personal shoppers who import luxury goods into China without paying duties), will be more likely to buy an Hermès bag in Shanghai than Paris or Hong Kong. Brands will close stores in capital cities and tourist destinations as a result.

It won't be all doom and gloom. Fashion's impact on the environment - the amount of carbon it produces, the millions of litres of dye that pollute the world's waterways, its contributions to soil erosion and biodiversity loss - will drop sharply this year. Labels will produce fewer, smaller collections over the next few quarters, even years. Having seen the risks of a global supply chain, American brands will reinvest in local manufacturing, furnishing new jobs and skills.

Seasonal trends will continue to disappear as designers focus more on classic items that can be worn year-round - and stay on store shelves longer. The shift to more restrained, timeless pieces will ultimately give way to exuberance and excess - just as wartime fabric rationing paved the way for Dior's New Look in 1947, and the 2008 financial crisis set the stage for Alessandro Michele 's Gucci debut in 2015.

Fashion shows will get a much-needed overhaul. Already, the volume of resources poured into 10-minute shows - sometimes involving two full days of travel to see a single collection in Rio or Marrakesh - felt outrageous amid a climate crisis. They are also boring to watch online. Instead, brands will experiment with digital presentations and live interactions with designers. Storytelling around brands and collections will improve as a result. It already has.

Fashion weeks will be smaller. Many designers won't be able to afford to host them. Nor will magazines have the budgets to send editors to attend them. Deep-pocketed brands will fill seats with more influencers, exerting yet more control over third-party coverage. Unable to host showroom appointments, brands will invest in better showroom software, leaving buyers with less reason to travel in the long-term. This will be good for the industry's carbon footprint.

Shopping habits will change. With less disposable income, consumers will be more conscious of what they buy, treating luxury items as investment pieces that will serve them for years - or at least hold their resale value. The shift in spending from high-end handbags to health - skincare, supplements, boutique fitness classes - already on the rise pre-pandemic, will continue. Online shopping will become more of a habit. Similar to the 2008 recession, there will be more support for buying second-hand and directly from small businesses who manufacture responsibly. Others will turn to fast fashion for cheap thrills.

Ostentatious purchases will be out - athleisure, which was losing its appeal, will be back in. To quote GQ, we are living in the age of sweatpants and are never going back.
Lauren Indvik is the FT's fashion editor

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Light after the lockdown - the future of fashion

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Not since 1939 have the worlds of fashion and luxury so completely ground to a halt. Stores are closed, orders cancelled, factories shut or repurposed to make PPE. The summer fashion shows have been called off, and it looks increasingly unlikely the September fashion weeks will go ahead - brands such as Saint Laurent and Tory Burch have already cancelled their shows.

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The war on plastic pollution was one of the earliest sustainability issues to really take hold of consumer consciousness, as high-profile media coverage such as Sir David Attenborough's 2017 BBC Blue Planet II documentary fuelled awareness of the damage it can do to the environment.

With its reliance on plastic and paper throughout the supply chain - from polybags in factories to plastic packaging for online orders and plastic carrier bags in stores to paper return labels - fashion has work to do in order to clean up its act.

Sustainability organisation Ellen MacArthur Foundation says plastic packaging is estimated to make up 26% of the total volume of plastics created a year, and 72% of this is thrown away.

Fashion relies on plastic and paper throughout the supply chain - from polybags in factories to plastic packaging for online orders and plastic carrier bags in stores to paper return labels. The industry has work to do to clean up its act.

However, some retailers and brands have started taking note, and innovative solutions and meaningful projects are making an impact, reducing waste and CO2 emissions while simultaneously meeting the demands of increasingly conscious consumers.

As part of Weird Fish's sustainability strategy, the brand announced in November that it would be introducing eco grass paper bags into its 17 stores in the UK, replacing plastic bags. Grass paper is made from wood pulp and a minimum of 30% grass fibres.

John Stockton, managing director of Weird Fish, notes that the production of the bags emits 75% less CO2 than standard paper bags and the switch will significantly reduce the company's carbon footprint. The cost difference between grass paper and plastic bags is negligible, he says, and the introduction of was relatively straightforward.

"We implemented a running change to ensure that existing stocks of packaging were phased out as they were used," he explains. "We didn't want to needlessly dispose of any packaging already in stock. As a smaller company with the agility to implement change relatively quickly, we were able to transition efficiently as we moved from the spring 19 collection to autumn 19."

Cornish lifestyle brand Finisterre's approach has been to introduce a new kind of plastic packaging. Working with polymer manufacturing company Aquapak, it has developed a 100% water-soluble, compostable and biodegradable plastic bag.

Customers have told us they want us to help them reduce their impact on the planet and that reducing and recycling packaging is key for them

Stephen Cawley, head of sustainability at John Lewis

Niamh O'Laoighre, product development manager at Finisterre, explains that the brand collaborated with Aquapak over 18 months to develop the eco-friendly polymer, which can be used to create "plastic-like" bags to be used in ecommerce deliveries. Eventually, O'Laoighre says, the idea is to make the technology open source so that other businesses can also utilise the polymer - helping to reduce the amount of non-compostable plastic materials sent to landfill or finding its way into the oceans each year.

Currently, the bags are around two to three times more expensive to produce than conventional plastic ones, but O'Laoighre stresses that as production, supply and demand increase, this will drop.

"We know fashion is a massive contributor to the issues around sustainability, and we're trying to find a way that we can counteract that as best as we can," she says. "We take our commitment really seriously as a business, and we're doing what we can to ensure we have the least impact possible. We know that plastic is a huge issue in that conversation."

Other examples of eco-friendly, biodegradable packaging are popping up across the market. For example, sustainable sourcing platform SupplyCompass launched a range of biodegradable garment bags for retailers, made from a corn-based biopolymer.

"Polybags are lightweight, effective and cheap," says Flora Davidson, co-founder of SupplyCompass, "but, unfortunately, their most common iteration is 100% plastic [which is] difficult to recycle."

Big names are also taking action. John Lewis and Zalando are just two retailers to have recently announced plans to rethink packaging in a bid to enhance their sustainable credentials.

In October 2019, John Lewis launched a trial at its Oxford store encouraging shoppers to adopt a "reduce, re-use and return" approach to packaging. Initiatives include removing all plastic bags from the store and encouraging shoppers to bring their own bags, saving an estimated 5 tonnes of plastic a year, as well as introducing re-usable click-and-collect bags made from 100% recycled materials.

"Our customers have told us they want us to help them reduce their impact on the planet and that reducing and recycling packaging is key for them," says Stephen Cawley, head of sustainability at John Lewis. "We will listen to customer feedback on this blueprint before deciding what we should introduce to other shops."

In its sustainability strategy announced in October 2019, German ecommerce giant Zalando pledged to be single-use plastic free by 2023 and focus on designing packaging with circularity and waste reduction in mind.

We consider packaging as one of the most strategic topics in the ecommerce landscape

Uwe Streiber, team lead warehouse consumables at Zalando

The retailer already uses 100% recycled boxes, with shipping bags made from 80% recycled material and polybags made from 60% recycled materials.

Uwe Streiber, team lead warehouse consumables at Zalando, says that the benefits of solving the packaging problem are multifaceted. "We consider packaging as one of the most strategic topics in the ecommerce landscape. There is a strong brand-building potential, as packaging is one of our main touchpoints to customers with the unboxing experience. We see a high innovation potential with regards to new materials and logistics processes.

"Our leverage is also high: we can influence the type of material used and adjust processes to reduce consumption. The potential environmental impact is also great: by tapping into this topic we are impacting two issues: CO2 and waste."

Cutting down on the paper involved in packaging and labelling can also have an impact, says Patrick Eve, managing director of returns management solution ZigZag Global.

"Thousands of retailers print millions of returns labels each year and the majority of them never get used, costing retailers millions of pounds in printing and wasting tonnes of paper in the process. Small changes like removing these labels and packing slips from their outward parcels and digitising the process, can make a big difference to the environment."

ZigZag now offers a paperless returns solution for retailers via Hermes, Royal Mail and CollectPlus and others in the UK. It directs customers online where they can generate a returns label without requiring a printer.

"ZigZag has helped a number of major UK retailers save over 2 million paper labels from being included needlessly in outward parcels since switching to our paperless solution, with the retailers estimating that they have reduced their paper wastage by around 60%," says Eve.

As consumers continue to demand change, with innovation taking place across the spectrum of fashion retail, packaging is thankfully moving towards of a plastic-free revolution. With heavyweights like John Lewis and Zalando on board, change across the industry should become cheaper and more easily accessible for all as the ripples of their influence filter across the industry, helping retailers dramatically reduce their waste output and CO2 emissions. Now is the time rethink your plastic use.

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The war on plastic pollution was one of the earliest sustainability issues to really take hold of consumer consciousness, as high-profile media coverage such as Sir David Attenborough's 2017 BBC Blue Planet II documentary fuelled awareness of the damage it can do to the environment.

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The business is preparing to file a notice of intention to appoint administrators as soon as tomorrow. Advisory firm FRP Advisory is lined up to handle the process.

Drapers understands various parties have already shown interest in the business. Potential offers vary on the inclusion of the business's 220 store portfolio.

The group, owned by entrepreneur Peter Simon, employs around 3,500 people across the UK.

It comes less than a year since the company successfully launched a Company Voluntary Arrangement (CVA), that saw rent cuts and around 40 of the 258 stores that Monsoon had at the time permanently closed.

Sofie Willmott, lead retail analyst at GlobalData, said: "Monsoon Accessorize was one of the many retailers looking unsteady on its feet prior to the COVID-19 pandemic, with its CVA launched in July 2019 not enough on its own, to secure the long term future of the business. Monsoon's focus on occasionwear has left it particularly exposed to the slump in demand. A significant proportion of Monsoon's range is designed with weddings and other special occasions in mind and with social gatherings on hold for the time being, it is at a disadvantage and cannot leverage other categories like loungewear and activewear, as other clothing specialists have done.

"The retailer is reportedly planning to ask landlords for rent-free deals over the next few months to increase its chance of survival but Monsoon is unlikely to be a retailer that clothing shoppers rush back to. With social distancing set to remain throughout 2020, special occasions will be pushed back and Monsoon will struggle to encourage spend."

Monsoon Accessorize declined to comment.

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Monsoon Accessorize on brink of administration

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The business is preparing to file a notice of intention to appoint administrators as soon as tomorrow. Advisory firm FRP Advisory is lined up to handle the process. Drapers understands various parties have already shown interest in the business. Potential offers vary on the inclusion of the business's 220 store portfolio.

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There are few jobs that are as unpredictable and dangerous as that of a garment worker. When things are going well and orders come in, it means time pressure, piecework, verbal and physical abuse at the workplace and still no living wage. When things are not going well, it means cancelled orders leading to job loss, no severance package, no social or financial net. In other words, the road to poverty.

After the global coronavirus outbreak, things are not going well, quite badly in fact, for many garment workers around the world, but especially in low-wage garment producing countries in Asia. As fashion stores in developed markets have had to close temporarily, demand for clothing has fallen accordingly. Brands and retailers have reacted quickly and cancelled or postponed their orders. In many cases, they have even refused to accept and pay for goods that have already been produced for them.

Thousands of factories closed; millions of workers let go

Suppliers in those countries have been hit hard: According to a research report by Penn State University's Center for Global Workers' Rights (CGWR), thousands of garment factories have already shutdown partially or completely and millions of garment workers have been sent home, often without the legally-mandated pay or severance.

A CGWR online survey of Bangladesh employers, administered between 21st March and 25th March 2020, reveals the "devastating impact" the cancellation of orders has had on the factories and their employees: "Crucially, it illustrates the extreme fragility of a system based on decades of buyers squeezing down on prices paid to suppliers: factory closures, unpaid workers with no savings to survive the hard times ahead, and a government with such a low tax revenue that it has very limited ability to provide meaningful support to workers and the industry," states the research brief.

The survey revealed that more than half of Bangladesh suppliers have had the bulk of their in-process, or already completed, production canceled since the coronavirus pandemic took hold. This is despite the fact that buyers have a contractual obligation to pay for these orders. "Many are making dubious use of general force majeure clauses to justify their violations of the terms of the contract," finds the report.

Buyers abandon suppliers

The survey further revealed that more than 72 percent of buyers refused to pay for raw materials like fabric and others that had already been purchased by suppliers. More than 91 percent of buyers also refused to pay for cut-make-trim costs. As a direct result of order cancellations and lack of payment, 58 percent of the factories surveyed reported having to shut down most or all of their operations.

Another consequence is that more than one million garment workers in Bangladesh have already been fired or temporarily suspended from work. The survey also clearly showed that almost all buyers (98.1 percent) refused to contribute to the cost of paying the partial wages to furloughed workers that the law requires. Consequently, 72 percent of the workers had to be sent home without pay and more than 80 percent without their severance pay. This despite the fact that many brands have "responsible exit" policies, in which they commit to support factories in mitigating potential adverse impacts to workers should they decide to exit.

The report concludes with recommendations by the CGWR, which do not only apply to Bangladesh but all garment-producing countries. It points to the fact that the crisis has hit the bottom line and cash reserves of brands and retailers but that not all parties are equally situated to find the liquidity needed to cover their expense. Thus, the report sums up, "the hit on supplier factories, who generally operate on paper-thin margins and have far less access to capital than their customers, is that much more extreme. And the burden on workers - who very rarely earn enough to accumulate any savings and who still need to put food on the table and possibly cover unforeseen health expenses - is enormous".

Recommendations for buyers

Thus, the CGWR recommends that companies with the greatest ability to procure loans and benefits from government bailouts share those with their suppliers. Suppliers, for their part, must also ensure that payments received from buyers are used to cover all legally mandated wages and benefits, including severance payments to dismissed workers.

At the same time, the governments of garment-producing countries, for example Bangladesh, should continue to mobilise all the resources at their disposal to subsidize suppliers and provide wage support to all workers during the crisis.

Looking at the future, buyers should learn from this crisis to revise purchasing practices to ensure proper social and environmental sustainability. This includes order stability that allows for proper planning, timely payments of orders and full respect for workers' rights as well as a costing model that covers the full range of social compliance including living wages, benefits, severance pay, building safety, etc. In conclusion, the CGWR reminds the industry that trillions of dollars are currently made available in aid for businesses and workers in developed countries and that the cost of maintaining the income for the world's garment workers represents only a small fraction of this.

Big fashion company show solidarity

On the buyers side, some appropriate steps are currently being taken. For example, Swedish fashion group H&M has committed itself to stand by its manufacturers: "We will stand by our commitments to our garment manufacturing suppliers by taking delivery of the already produced garments as well as goods in production. We will of course pay for these goods and we will do it under agreed payment terms. This is in accordance with our responsible purchasing practices and not only the case in Bangladesh, but in all production countries," said H&M in a statement on Tuesday.

What effect the actions of individual buyers can have can be seen by the response to H&M's commitment: Since then, other major fashion groups such as Inditex, Marks & Spencer, PVH, Target and Kiabi have also decided to maintain their current production orders. Hopefully, other apparel companies, fashion brands and retailers will follow.
NurPhoto via AFP

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Abandoned? The impact of Covid-19 on factories and garment workers

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IN DEPTH There are few jobs that are as unpredictable and dangerous as that of a garment worker. When things are going well and orders come in, it means time pressure, piecework, verbal and physical abuse at the workplace and still no l

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With the COVID-19 pandemic provoking a global health and economic emergency, the OECD's Dorothy Lovell looks at how OECD guidance on responsible business conduct can help governments and business address the impacts of COVID-19 in a way that mitigates harm to workers and supply chains in the garment sector.
The COVID-19 crisis has caused immediate and devastating impacts to many workers and supply chains, perhaps nowhere more so than in the garment sector. Retailers have experienced an instant loss of footfall as they had to close stores and a drop in demand has also hit online sales, creating direct shocks in producing economies. An ITMF survey of 700 textile companies worldwide revealed that globally current orders dropped by 31% on average. Separately, 959 factories in Bangladesh have reported demand shocks linked to COVID-19 representing 826.42 million pieces worth USD 2.67 billion of export orders either cancelled or held up by global buyers, according to Fair Wear. In addition to halting new orders, buyers are also asking suppliers not to ship clothing that has already been made and deferring payments (). In these cases, manufacturers have already incurred costs and may be in debt to their raw material suppliers. Even while some companies are repurposing their supply chains to produce personal protective equipment for medical purposes (Human Rights Watch), this may not be practical for many manufacturers and it will not provide enough jobs for all those laid off. The ramp-up and re-structuring of supply chains under incredibly short lead times may also carry other risks for workers such as excessive overtime and health and safety considerations for those risking infection by working at the height of the pandemic.

While reappraisal of stock levels and orders by fashion retailers is inevitable in the medium to long term, the cancellations that have been reported are devastating an already fragile supply base, forcing factories out of business, sending millions of workers already in precarious employment into even more dire straits, and jeopardising the resilience of the industry to turn production back on after this crisis has passed.

In terms of how companies should act responsibly in this climate, the OECD Due Diligence Guidance for Responsible Supply Chains in the Garment & Footwear Sector serves us well, providing a good basis for helping us think through these issues.
1. Responsible purchasing practices
The OECD Garment Guidance says that companies should address their purchasing practices as part of their due diligence.

We know that poor purchasing practices, such as unfair contract clauses, inadequate technical specifications, impractical leadtimes and ever lower prices, undermine suppliers' efforts to meet minimum social standards for their workers. Research by the ILO made this link, and highlighted the role that buyers can play, by imposing extreme pressure on suppliers' price quotes. For example, 52% of textile and clothing suppliers in the study reported to have accepted orders whose price did not allow them to cover their production costs. In Bangladesh particularly, in real terms, the price per garment unit has dropped by 1.94% over the past five years for imports to the EU (source: Eurostat) while wages and raw materials costs have gone up.

The OECD Garment Guidance specifically advises that companies should:

Engage in two-way dialogue with suppliers.

Develop pricing models that account for the cost of wages, benefits and investments in decent work.

Track relevant indicators of practices, such as prices and percentage of orders placed late or changed after the order is placed.

Develop procedures for purchasing teams to follow in instances in which practices could contribute to harm. For example, in instances in which orders are changed after order placement or orders are placed late.

Collaborative initiatives which provide tools for businesses to assess and monitor their purchasing practices, such as ACT on Living Wages, Better Buying and Fair Wear can be part of the solution and could lead to a more resilient future for the industry beyond wafer-thin business margins and wages that do not meet the needs of workers and their families. These needs include the provision of social security, which should be consistent with ILO standards including medical care, sickness, employment injury and unemployment protections.
2. Ending supplier relationships responsibly
The OECD Garment Guidance requires companies to consider carefully the consequences of ending a relationship with a supplier (disengagement), including weighing the leverage (or ability to effect change) that the company has with the potential harm to workers caused by disengagement. Companies are encouraged to first exhaust all possible means to prevent, cease and mitigate harm to workers in the supply chain before ending a relationship. These principles also apply to the COVID-19 pandemic. Even though the pressures retailers are under are not to be underestimated, companies should prioritise paying for products for which suppliers have taken on liability (raw material stocks, labour and freight costs) as an absolute minimum, while engaging in two-way dialogue with the supplier to discuss how best to mitigate the loss of future orders. Collaboration with other retailers, manufacturers and unions, to find meaningful solutions which avoid workers losing their income overnight, is necessary, as is taking a proactive and transparent approach. This could mean: i) assessing the socio-economic impacts of various contingency options, as well as the availability of any loan or emergency relief packages and support; ii) consulting with workers or their representatives, including at a global level, on the contingency options, and iii) seeking out donor support or other aid to mitigate the socio-economic effects of cancelled business. Companies who can help their suppliers weather the storm will be better placed to restart more quickly during the recovery period (see the OECD note on COVID-19 and responsible business conduct).
3. The role of governments
We know that companies are looking to governments in terms of solutions. What the role of governments should be can't be answered universally, and will depend on the government. Of course since the 2008 financial crash company bailouts have been less and less attractive and justifiable to the general public. Many governments are already taking action to preserve jobs through paid furlough schemes. In the finance sector, the European Central Bank urged lenders to stop dividend payments and share buybacks until at least 1 October in order to give banks a financial cushion to support businesses and households. In the garment sector, Bangladesh, which has seen more than USD 2.8 billion worth of orders canceled or postponed since the start of the coronavirus crisis, announced a stimulus package worth USD 590 million on 25 March, to spend on salaries for workers (). In South Africa industry and government reached a deal where the 80,000 garment workers would be guaranteed full pay for six weeks during and after the government's COVID-19 lock down (Ecotextile). The EU has extended EUR 5 million to support workers and SMEs in the garment sector in Myanmar (Global New Light of Myanmar). These rescue deals provide immediate lifelines but won't last long and efforts are needed to: i) extend wages and protections through the period of shutdown, ii) carefully consult on plans for reopening factories to prioritise the safety of workers, and iii) to ensure that post-crisis a new level playing field is set to ensure garment workers are paid wages that meet their needs, comprising the full gamut of social security protections, according to ILO standards. Governments can play a role to legislate, facilitate multi-stakeholder dialogue, and lead by example in their public procurement practices.
Prospects for mid to long-term recovery depend on responsible action now
The COVID-19 crisis is extraordinary and has exposed the cracks in an already-fragile economic system undermined by ever lower per unit prices and other problematic purchasing practices. Companies should engage with their suppliers and adopt fair and common sense approaches to mitigate losses from current and future orders, based on a commitment to responsible business conduct as laid out in OECD Guidance. It may seem difficult in the immediate reaction to take RBC impacts into consideration, but doing so will play a role in reducing the devastation in the short term, while buying time for a clearer picture to emerge of the medium term needs of the sector, and positioning companies better for recovery. Governments should step in to honour social security commitments, and facilitate medium term support for the sector, while directing policy efforts to ensure these protections are built into the economic system in future. Without this, the resilience of the sector and chances for mid to long-term recovery are in doubt.

Applying an RBC approach in the response to this crisis will enable businesses to minimise the adverse impacts on people and the planet, but it will also help them to build more long-term value and resilience, and improve their prospects for recovery in the medium to long term.
Download the OECD note on COVID-19 and responsible business conduct Find out more about Responsible Supply Chains in the Garment and Footwear Sector

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How can fashion brands mitigate the negative impacts of the COVID-19 pandemic on garment workers?

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With the COVID-19 pandemic provoking a global health and economic emergency, the OECD's Dorothy Lovell looks at how OECD guidance on responsible business conduct can help governments and business address the impacts of COVID-19 in a way that mitigates harm to workers and supply chains in the garment sector.

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The business is preparing to file a notice of intention to appoint administrators as soon as tomorrow. Advisory firm FRP Advisory is lined up to handle the process.

Drapers understands various parties have already shown interest in the business. Potential offers vary on the inclusion of the business's 220 store portfolio.

The group, owned by entrepreneur Peter Simon, employs around 3,500 people across the UK.

It comes less than a year since the company successfully launched a Company Voluntary Arrangement (CVA), that saw rent cuts and around 40 of the 258 stores that Monsoon had at the time permanently closed.

Sofie Willmott, lead retail analyst at GlobalData, said: "Monsoon Accessorize was one of the many retailers looking unsteady on its feet prior to the COVID-19 pandemic, with its CVA launched in July 2019 not enough on its own, to secure the long term future of the business. Monsoon's focus on occasionwear has left it particularly exposed to the slump in demand. A significant proportion of Monsoon's range is designed with weddings and other special occasions in mind and with social gatherings on hold for the time being, it is at a disadvantage and cannot leverage other categories like loungewear and activewear, as other clothing specialists have done.

"The retailer is reportedly planning to ask landlords for rent-free deals over the next few months to increase its chance of survival but Monsoon is unlikely to be a retailer that clothing shoppers rush back to. With social distancing set to remain throughout 2020, special occasions will be pushed back and Monsoon will struggle to encourage spend."

Monsoon Accessorize declined to comment.

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Monsoon Accessorize on brink of administration

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The business is preparing to file a notice of intention to appoint administrators as soon as tomorrow. Advisory firm FRP Advisory is lined up to handle the process. Drapers understands various parties have already shown interest in the business. Potential offers vary on the inclusion of the business's 220 store portfolio.

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How the COVID-19 pandemic could change the retail industry

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If there's a silver lining to the coronavirus crisis, it's that the National Health Service has become more than just publicly funded healthcare; it's officially the coolest brand in Britain. Of course, the NHS isn't a brand - nor is it a charity - but with celebrities and influencers sporting fundraising merch created by brands big and small, it's evolved beyond a much-loved institution into the only name to label yourself with on lockdown.

Britain's love for the NHS runs deep. Since its founding in 1948, every single person in the country has been touched by it in some way; from the maternity wards to end-of-life palliative care, NHS workers' love and compassion is woven into the very fabric of our lives. In the 1980s, Margaret Thatcher's attempts at privatisation prompted national uproar, which led her former chancellor, Nigel Lawson, to write in his memoirs years later: "The NHS is the closest thing the English now have to a religion."

So how exactly did the NHS - our underfunded but beloved health service - achieve Supreme-levels of cult cool? It all started with Sports Banger. Back in 2015, the tongue-in-cheek bootleg brand riffed on the instantly recognisable NHS logo, pairing it with a Nike swoosh tick on a T-shirt designed to support junior doctors. Sports Banger's garms mash political statements with '90s sportswear nostalgia - think tees reading "The Met Police Are Targeting London Venues", a response to Fabric nightclub temporarily losing its licence in 2016, plus flipped Reebok logos and homages to the founder of Slazenger - so its playful homage to the NHS seems fitting.

Streetwear's revival centres on its '90s roots, the decade in which the NHS logo we know and love today was created. Before the introduction of the unmistakeable blue and white design (Frutiger Bold font in 'blue lozenge' Pantone 300, FYI), the various arms of the health system ( it only really started being widely referred to as the 'NHS' in the '90s, too) had their own regional visual identities, as the service wasn't formed from the ground up but by pulling together existing hospitals and services. Now with uniform branding nationwide, the NHS emblem is as ingrained in Britain's visual lexicon as that of the BBC or London Underground.

"i was born in the NHS
my mum worked for the NHS
the NHS tried to save my brother's life
the NHS saved my life
the NHS saved my dad's life
the NHS tried to save my mum's life
the NHS saved my best friend's life
the NHS saved my other best friend's life"

The latest drop of NHS merch to hit your Insta feed comes courtesy of graphic designer Victoria Boyle and DJ and Origins Sound founder Armândo Mehrkar, who have collaborated on ultra cool football scarves emblazoned with galvanising messages. "We've wanted to team up and create some original merch for quite some time," they explain, "and when the UK moved into lockdown we thought it would be the perfect opportunity to create something that conveyed a strong message and would help support those people who are risking their lives every day for us." Similarly to Sports Banger, Boyle and Mehrkar are teaming up with London eateries to put 100% of every donation towards food drops for hospitals across the capital, from King's College to Hammersmith.

Football scarves have been used to demonstrate loyalty to more than just your local team in recent years, with everyone from Vetements and Y/Project to House of Holland serving up a slice of fashion fandom in past seasons. Boyle and Mehrkar looked to the NHS' own branding for design inspiration; their blue and white scarves read "Made in the UK", "Since 1948" and "Saving Lives". "The reverse of the scarves showcase an inverted colour palette highlighting the status quo: 'SOCIAL DISTANCING' and 'WASH YOUR HANDS'," they explain. The result is a cult buy which the V&A will no doubt be looking to acquire as a reflection of the current zeitgeist.

Once again, Brits' unique love for the NHS is apparent here: taken out of context, these sentiments - "Made in the UK" - could come across as nationalist thanks to the co-opting of our country's identity by Brexiteers and the far right. Yet when applied to our treasured NHS, national pride is celebrated far and wide. "We feel that anyone that regularly uses the NHS services appreciates it, but it's often easy for people to take it for granted," say Boyle and Mehrkar. "The events of COVID-19 have really shown everyone how vital they are and this appreciation must continue going forward. All healthcare professionals (doctors, nurses, surgeons, porters, cleaners etc.) should be treated like heroes."

Slick design is what separates these cult cops from the equally well-meaning but often naff tees we typically associate with charity fundraisers, something creative platform Everpress understands intuitively. "There are always a number of charity-focused campaigns popping up on Everpress at any given time," head of creatives, Nick Law tells me, "and we also run our own dedicated fundraising campaigns such as 50/50." An ongoing initiative, 50/50 enlists 50 artists to create 50 T-shirt designs in support of various organisations: 2019's was community-led Justice4Grenfell and the year before that, Amnesty International. Now, Everpress' NHS-blue-and-white 'Together' tee has emerged as the biggest drop of the crisis.

"It's an homage to an OG Everpress classic, called ' Utopia', designed by Adam Tickle for the 2018 50/50 campaign with Amnesty International. We always loved the power in simplicity of that one, but given that we're hardly living in utopian times right now, we asked Adam to repurpose it with a more relevant sentiment," Law muses. "After the initial videos showing people elbowing each other out the way for bog roll, it does seem like COVID-19 is uniting Brits generally; there have been some incredible stories of compassion and kindness coming to light. At the heart of this has been the NHS workers, whose dedication and bravery throughout this has been mind-blowing, and an inspirational lesson in selflessness."

There's a quote by stand-up comedian Henning Wehn circulating on social media right now: "We don't do charity in Germany. We pay taxes. Charity is a failure of governments' responsibilities." As NHS devotees, of course we're all more than happy to donate; lack of control is defining our existence right now and pulling together as one big community to support the ultimate triumph of Britain's welfare state is heartwarming, particularly when the country has felt so utterly divided in recent years. As Josh Glancy, a Brit living in an equally divided America, noted in his Times column last weekend, our fierce loyalty to the NHS has brought together those who have been diametrically opposed on the political spectrum of late in a way he's not seeing in the USA. Boomer or millennial, conservative or liberal, city-dweller or countryside-resider - the NHS unites us all.

We should all contribute and volunteer whatever money and time we can afford during this crisis but we mustn't let the government off the hook by allowing it to continue to neglect the NHS. After all, it wouldn't need our donations if it hadn't been ravaged by years of austerity. Post-pandemic, our voting power will matter more than ever; may the crisis electrify us into future action. In an influencer-centric world, thank god that it wasn't a celebrity or a cult label but the NHS that became the coolest brand in the country at a time of global crisis. Let's hope our hero worship lasts forever.

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How The NHS Became The Coolest 'Brand' In Britain

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The NHS isn't a brand - nor is it a charity - but with celebrities and influencers sporting fundraising merch created by brands big and small, it's evolved beyond a much-loved institution into the only name to label yourself with on lockdown.

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Notes

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https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/82057/page/3

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https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/85835/page/4

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For decades, the traditional seasonal calendar has served the industry well. Designers put their spring/summer collections on the catwalk in September and then showcase an autumn/winter drop six months later. While pre-fall and pre-spring collections have always been moneymakers for brands, the buzz has tended to exist around these two shows, where designers bring forward their ideas for a new season.

However, as the reality of the climate emergency sets in, you could argue that we're moving past the need for this traditional model; designers may no longer see fit to create under these same strict boundaries. During the most recent shows, we've seen unexpected products and trends for the season (boots in spring, lightweight coats in winter) and we've also seen designers move away from trends in favour of putting timeless pieces on the catwalk that play into the consumer's new desire for clothing that will serve them well for years to come.

"We have definitely noticed a shift in the way in which designers are approaching the traditional seasons," Rebecca Tinker, womenswear buyer at Selfridges tells us. "Collections are more seasonless than ever, as brands take more of a considered approach to the longevity of a collection. We have seen more classic silhouettes and less reliability on prints dominating the market. This is strongly resonating with our customers who seek pieces that they can keep in their wardrobe longer than a season."

At MyTheresa, fashion buying director Tiffany Hsu has noticed a similar movement: "We saw boots in spring, while during the winter shows, there were sleeveless coats and trenches instead of heavy wool outerwear, and short-sleeved knits in favour of the more traditional styles."

This has been happening for a few seasons, Libby Page, senior fashion market editor at Net-a-Porter, explains, and is something that they've intentionally bought into for the coming spring.

"There has been a more seasonless approach to fashion, as we're seeing pieces like boots, that would traditionally be worn only in winter, paired with midi dresses in the summer. Trench coats are also layered over thicker jumpers and under vests in the winter, making a traditionally spring item work all year. For spring/summer 2020, we will have over 50 options of turtlenecks, as they help transition from season to season and work as a great underpinning for all looks."

Natalie Kingham, fashion and buying director at Matches Fashion agrees: "I think designers are being more mindful, as they're conscious that their consumers are looking for more information about where their collections have come from, and they are also aware that their customers are wanting to invest in pieces that have longevity."

At Browns, head of womenswear buying Heather Gramston has noticed that these seasonless pieces have dominated on many catwalks, while her team has also found that many brands are turning to a more modern delivery model.

"Seasons are definitely not as clearly defined as they used to be in the past and we are continuing to see them blend together. This is partly as designers are starting to recognise the commercial benefit of offering customers the option of 'see now, buy now' pieces and readdressing delivery schedules. It was evident on the runways over the past two seasons, where trans-seasonal styles were at the forefront and layering has become the nouveau."

The idea of the 'see now, buy now' model is not brand new - Burberry unveiled this approach in 2016 and it soon became something of a trend in itself with the likes of Ralph Lauren, Tommy Hilfiger and Tom Ford following suit. But, while this initially focused on the idea of shopping straight from the catwalk, the approach now seems to be more about blurring the lines between the seasons.

"Brands are starting to think more and more about incorporating a 'see now, buy now' business model, which means that we often find outerwear, knits and heavier fabrics in both cruise and high summer," Page says. "On the flip side, Giambattista Valli's autumn/winter 2020 collection was filled with pastel pinks and floral details that would be traditionally reserved for spring."

And, while there have been some unexpected trends, perhaps an even more telling sign that we are moving past this seasonal model is the lack of so many obvious, 'one-hit-wonder' trends or novelty moments that now emerge from the catwalks. For spring/summer 2020, designers showed plenty of white, while for autumn/winter, classic black silhouettes dominated, with some major brands sending the first 10 looks down the catwalk, top-to-toe in the hue.

"I believe that designers organically create pieces that make noise, not necessarily designing with a particular trend in mind," Tinker says. "But, as a wider concept, they are much more conscious of the longevity of a purchase and design to cater for this. Over the past few seasons, we have seen that our customers are making more considered purchases, choosing to invest with a long-term view as opposed to on impulse. The modern woman now purchases to complement a capsule wardrobe and brands are aware of this, creating pieces that are an effortless addition to existing options."

"Spring/summer 2020 was one of the most wearable seasons that we've seen in recent years, as it was full of great wardrobing and pieces that will last through the seasons," Page adds. "There is a growing awareness - conscious consumption is more important than ever to consumers, which means that when it comes to fashion, the focus has slowly started to shift from quantity, to quality. Fewer, high-quality pieces that are loved and worn in multiple ways are now the preference as these pieces have a timelessness to them, that often make them seasonless. As a buyer, the approach now is less about the season and more about where in the world the product will be delivered so, in a way, we do have a less season-led approach to buying."

"People are no longer buying and planning their wardrobes season by season, which I do feel is an important consideration for customers as they look at buying less but buying better," Gramston says.

So, if there is a movement away from creating catwalk moments or seasonal trends - where a particular piece becomes immediately associated with a particular season or time, and therefore dates faster - what does this mean for the creative process for designers?

"We have seen a shift away from 'trends' and designers are now embracing what their brands stand for," Gramston explains. "Take Gucci and Prada, who have most recently been referencing their brand's heritage and reinterpreting the past to create something new, such as Prada Sport. And then there are designers such as Christopher Kane, who are also evolving each collection as opposed to starting a new story each season."

Page agrees, arguing that there is a now a new way to be creative, designing for longevity while still managing to create that buzz around newness.

"Daniel Lee of Bottega Veneta is a good example of a designer who is using the codes and heritages of the house and translating them into modern and unique designs that are, at the same time, timeless. He pushes boundaries, while still managing to create a wardrobe of looks and accessories that include classic core pieces that can be worn in multiple ways, across the seasons."

You could even argue that this less rigid structure actually allows designers to be more creative and to put out collections in a more authentic, organic way.

"Sustainability has allowed us to design the way we have always wanted to design," Amy Smilovic, founder of New York Fashion Week favourite Tibi, told us. "In the past, you had a merchandising team and a department store demanding that you create hundreds of styles, often so they could choose just a handful. I was always resistant to this but it was an exhausting argument. Now, there is no more argument. It's understood that it's the smart way to do things. And if you are going to be tight on your collection, when pieces can be worn across different continents and different seasons, it's even more imperative. I've always sold to Australia and to America in the same deliveries, so I've always had to have a strong eye towards seasonless."

In many ways, designers are gearing their collections towards no season at all in response to what consumers are now looking for - with exceptions of course (we haven't forgotten that opera gloves were all over the catwalks last month). And, much of this is a direct result of climate change and sustainability, but could a more global customer also have had an impact? Tinker thinks so.

"We recognise there is a new level of global accessibility and this may play into why the seasonality element of a collection is no longer a priority. As a business with a huge international customer base, we understand that the European seasons don't necessarily reflect on the rest of the world and therefore we buy with this in mind."

Gramston agrees, arguing that online shopping has led to customers having the chance to get whatever they want at any point throughout the year, wherever in the world they are - for this reason, designers want to cater to it.

"As we become more global and have access to online shopping with brands shipping internationally, consumers are becoming used to being able to buy product all year round - from swim to outerwear - meaning that seasonality is blurred."

What seems apparent is that, for a number of reasons, designers are gravitating towards putting timeless pieces on the catwalk, those that may traditionally have not had a place in that particular season. Consumers are looking for their wardrobes to work harder, to work year round, and are steering away from buying something to wear for only one season. In many ways, this presents a unique opportunity for designers where they are free to create under fewer restrictions.

It seems likely then that we will see a continuation of the movement towards seasonless collections, but will this eventually impact the actual seasonal show calendar? Well, that is another question in itself.
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Are we seeing the end of seasonality in fashion?

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For decades, the traditional seasonal calendar has served the industry well. Designers put their spring/summer collections on the catwalk in September and then showcase an autumn/winter drop six months later. While pre-fall and pre-spring collections have always been moneymakers for brands, the buzz has tended to exist around these two shows, where designers bring forward their ideas for a new season.

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Landscape of Fashion & Retail Presentation Pitch - Luisa Mule