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Cuisine are strongly relating to culture, identity and history

Cuisine Association try to preserve Catalan cuisine as regional or even “national”

Using ancient recipes and old cooking techniques

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Has a reference to Gastronomy, showing the importance of food in Spanish culture

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Has a reference to Gastronomy, showing the importance of food in Spanish culture

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- Cuisine is closely related to tradition and cultural history
- Emphasizes that regional cuisine must be preserved  by promoting traditional recipes and techniques

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It includes the different regional food

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First thing that you see when you enter the website 

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First thing that you see when you enter the website 

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shows how much pride they have in their cuisine

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- The official photo of the website is an image of food
- Advertises the spanish culture and especially their cuisine, attractions and places to visit
-Showing different regions all in the same place= sense of unity?

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The website celebrates and advertises many of Spains diverse cultural regions. It promotes sites, food, attractions and events in various regions of Spain. This no longer a time of cultural oppression; instead Spain's multicultural landscape is allowed to thrive and is shared with the rest of the world

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emphasis on tradition, heritage, legacy

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'Cuisine Association' aims to preserve the culture and roots of Catalonia through cuisine, by promoting ancient recipes or by recovering old cooking techniques or utensils.
- no mention through the website of Catalonia being a part of Spain - independent
- "Catalonia must be enjoyed in five ways. Its culture, landscape, gastronomy, climate and people combine to form a unique identity that attracts people from around the world."

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The website uses many beautifully curated images, depicting vibrant and picturesque sites in Spain to capture the viewers attention.
There is not much text on the home page, it is the images and succinct captions that do the taking.
The site is organised in multiple, small categories that are engaging and relevant. There is a daily weather widget, a travel tips section, an activities section, and a year long calendar of events and an interactive map for travellers that like to plan well ahead.

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The website talks about how cuisine can represent a culture's history. This group aims to preserve regional cuisine and thus regional traditions/history.

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Sophisticated food networks under the umbrella of Catalonia Dept. of Tourism that allows broad exposure and strong identification with the region’s attributes. Melbourne’s effort at this pales into insignificance – only highlighting a few individual places, not sub-interest groups, as the Catalan site does. It highlights the difference in the strength and importance of national and regional identity between the two places.

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Catalonia as a two-way trading network between food produce  and consumers
Catalonia has the power to assimilate dishes of other cuisines
International influences
Two enemies of Catalan cooking
1. Hurriedness (abandoning old dishes)
2. Tourism
Need to reaffirm national unity and national pride
Paradoxical association of gastronomy and industrialization

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Important of preparing food for human history and evolution
Cooking = a universal human language + human activity
Food linked with cultural meanings
Help in self-understanding + understanding relationship with social others
E.g. The feelings French have towards wine, cheese + culture

Food linked with inclusion + exclusion
National pride + xenophobia
The threat of invasion of "filthy foreign food"
E.g. The presence of English settlers + tourists in Catalonia

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Ped La Prik - an example of a fusion dish

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Ped La Prik - an example of a fusion dish

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Lacquered duck in basil and
tamarind sauce — at Lao Lane Xang, a 15-minute walk from the Périphérique
in the 13th Arrondissement’s Chinatown. The dish takes the best attributes of
magret de canard and confit de canard, two classic French dishes, and gives them
a Southeast Asian inflection. The extraordinary crispiness of the duck’s skin is
accentuated by flash-fried Thai basil leaves, a garlicky chili paste and an
incendiary sour-sweet tamarind sauce.

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1. Focus on innovation, foreign chefs, new ideas
2. Less rigidity and more flexibility in food choice as demonstrated by increase in foreign wine consumption
3. Restyling French cuisine to affordable fare and casual dining
4. The Nouvelle Cuisine Movement is a revolution that liberate chefs from classicism - add their own personalities
5. None-French chefs are much more accepted by French Nationals

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- diversity of Parisian cuisine (adopting more multicultural stance)
- multiculturalism
- integration is everywhere (French bistro next to a kebab shop)
- combination of different multicultural cuisines (food integration)
- french food isn't as traditional as it once was (doesn't have to be traditional to be "fine" cuisine)

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An interesting statement that as music led the social revolution of the 1960s, food is leading the social revolution of now. This is very apt for Melbourne, and the change is led by the under 35’s trend-setting restaurant consumers. The demographics of this group I am guessing are similar to those in Paris. Unmarried, no children, high disposable income and high-use of social-media trend-setting.

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Le Chateaubriand
Restaurant is a classical 1950's style bistro that assimilats immigrant cultures into French cuisines as his "daily reality".

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The change of French cuisine:
--- widely use of premade food.
---Young foreign chefs.
---The embrace of foreign wines and ingredients, as well as the foreign cooking techniques.
---Change is not from the kitchen. Instead it is from the restaurants.

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- for much of the 20th century, France did not want outside influences within their food
- however, ''Paris is among the most multicultural cities in the world''
- the ''capital was far more diverse than it made out to be''
- it is ''pluraliste''
- ''you can find couscous on Michelin-starred menus and thinks at traditional brasserie''

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This reading reminded me of another book a friend of mine was reading, about the French way of life. I can't remember what it was called, but essentially, it stressed the importance of enjoying one's life, especially when eating. It stressed eating foods that one enjoyed, and taking one's time to appreciate them. It said that it isn't very French to think about dieting or counting calories but rather, to enjoy things in moderation. It also mentioned that simple food is better, and how fresh bread, vegetables and other produce shouldn't be overly tampered with in order to enjoy them better.

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I never knew that French dining places such an importance on wine. Even in the movie Haute Cuisine, Hortense mentioned that every course would have a different wine complementing it. Therefore, dining seems to be not only include double orality, but triple: eating, speaking AND drinking.

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- French food = meant to be savoured and enjoyed
-> it's a social practice for celebrating important moments (e.g. birthdays/weddings/anniversaries)
-> brings people together

- dishes are selected carefully
-> balance of taste
-> good, fresh, local produce
-> food complemented with WINE
-> beautiful dining layout
-> taking time to SMELL and TASTE

- Meal has a fixed structure
-> starts with an apéritif (drinks before the meal)
-> ends with liqueurs
-> at least four courses:    1. starter,
2. fish and/or meat with vegetables
3. cheese
4. dessert

- Gastronomes = people who possess deep knowledge of the tradition and preserve its memory
- they watch over the living practice of the rites
and contribute to oral and/or written transmission, in particular to younger generations.

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The withering of French cuisine:

-       Restaurants in France were using premade mass products from industrial kitchens

-       Disappearance of raw-milk cheeses

-       The fall in French wine consumption

-       Fast food profitable market

International chefs such as American and Australian chefs opened numbers of restaurants in France and serving French cuisine

Bistronomie

-       A reaction to weak French economic circumstance

-       Remaking French cuisine: from luxury restaurants to bistros

The nouvelle-cuisine movement

-       Make French cooking lighter and more seasonal

-       Revolutionary: liberate themselves from Escoffier classicism

French cuisine embraces international elements and chefs – French cuisine no longer belongs exclusively to the French.

UNESCO designates that “the gastronomic meal of the French” as part of the world’s cultural patrimony.

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Gastronomic meal not only a social occasion, also important part of their shared heritage + cultural identity
It ritualises the process of getting together + enjoying food
The whole process of a gastronomic meal from recipe preparation to inviting guest should a enjoyable experience
It is an experience shared among the whole family
Sharing advice + experience = important
New, foreign ingredients = welcome new discovers
Reflection of French regional + geographical diversity
Parents transmit skills to children
Each course of the meal is served separately and it initiates conversation
The meat/fish is served on the table as symbol of sharing
BUT fear of losing this gastronomic meal tradition in the future if it is not transmitted to the next generation

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- Customary social practice for social events (birthday, weddings, anniversaries) to strengthen social ties.
- People coming together to enjoy eating and drinking; emphasize on pleasure of taste, balance between human beings and products of nature (preferably local products)
- Fixed structure of a gastronomic meal:
Start with Aperitif (drink before meal): champagne, campari to clean the palate
At least 4 successive courses: starter, fish, meat, veg, cheese, dessert...
End with Liqueurs
Gastronomes: people who possess deep knowledge of the tradition, preserve its memory to supervise the living practices of the rites, and pass it on the next generation.

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Parisian cuisine: a new "culinary golden age"

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Parisian cuisine: a new "culinary golden age"

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- 1990s: "struggling to integrate" immigrant population
- today: cultural shift; integration of foreign influences by French chefs:

" different cultures are finding a legitimate place in mainstream food"

- multicultural encounters occur in restaurants; foodscape reflects the "pluraliste" spirit of the city
- stands in contrast to classical cuisine's rejection of foreign influences
- e.g. chef at up-market Le Chateaubriand describes his menu as a "cuisine métissée"  ('mixed-up cuisine') - dishes include buckwheat soba noodles

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Prior to this UNESCO video/article, I understood gastronomy as merely the practice of cooking and eating food.
However, I have learnt that in the French culinary context the 'gastronomic meal' refers to a specific tradition, a "social custom". This includes when this meal is to be consumed (for a special occasion), what is consumed (the choice of ingredients, food and drinks), and how it is consumed (the courses offered). It also involves other rituals, such as table setting, plating/presentation, etc.
The video and article highlighted to sharing of knowledge as well - people exchanging tips in the marketplace, parents teaching their children how to cook.

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There is the emergence in the late 1990s of "bistronomie"- a movement in which Paris’s most talented young French chefs eschewed the quest for Michelin stars in favour of opening simple bistros serving upscale fare at modest prices. During this time France's economy was comparatively weak and so opening expensive restaurants was not feasible. The last time French cuisine changed so much was during the Nouvelle Cuisine movement; where the Nouvelle Cuisine movement was led by chefs, this movement is being led by diners.
The slow success of foreign eateries in France, shows that the nation is broadening its palate.

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"integration is everywhere — at least on the plate "

Parisian food is adopting a more multicultural stance (restaurants are incorporating different types of food from all around the world, eg. Couscous and tagines)

Integration of: Israeli, Chinese, Vietnamese,  "Filipino-Polish", South Asian, etc.

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er- using ready made meals / disappearance of raw-milk cheeses / fall in French wine consumption indicating that France's culinary tradition has been withering
- renewed vigor from young foreign chefs serving French fare or popular French chef who trained in NY
- embracing foreign wines / long line of gourmet hamburgers and acceptance of the idea that non french can make French food as authentic, sophisticated and delicious
- French cuisine no longer exclusively belongs to the French

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This article discusses the change in French chefs from being born and raised in France to chefs from all backgrounds, including Australia and America. It brings forth the idea that these young international chefs are playing a role in re-instating French cuisine back into the world. It also mentions how many French chefs are now opting to move away from michelin star restaurants, opening bistros, whereas the international chefs are opening the fine dining restaurants.

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multicultural place was struggling to integrate its booming immigrant population.

Paris one of the most multicultural cities- 1/3 are immigrants

France limited by its own Xenophobia= dislike of or prejudice against people from other countries

For most of the 20th century, French gastronomy didn't want much to do with outside influences

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BEANS

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- cookbooks are ''cultural tales''
- ''representations... Of class and hierarchy ''
- in India ''the construction of a national cuisine is essentially a postindustrial, post colonial process''
- leftovers are a sensitive notion in Hindu thought, thought to be unclean

- what do cookbooks imply?

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Rice imports increased as the presence of the Chinese increased. Between April 12 to May 6, 1863, the dominant food of the Chinese was rice, where 1497kg of rice was consumed. 

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Rice imports increased as the presence of the Chinese increased. Between April 12 to May 6, 1863, the dominant food of the Chinese was rice, where 1497kg of rice was consumed. 

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The reading, “El Gallo Pinto”, focuses on the social, economic, historical and national importance of rice and beans in the context of Costa Rica. The reading addresses the symbolic importance, rather than the intrinsic significance, of rice and beans within Costa Rican culture. The dish, el gallo pinto, is viewed as a staple within Costa rican households and fulfils the basic norms of courtesy and hospitality.

Rice had been cultivated in Costa Rica since the 16th century, but did not become a staple within the Costa Rican until the late 19th century.

In 1903 the first Costa Rican cookbook was published Juana Ramirez Carrera. It contained 800 recipes but It did NOT contain the recipe for el gallo pinto!

Stereotypically, rice and beans is considered a staple dish within Spanish cuisine. Thus, it is interesting to learn that rice in particular only rose in popularity in the 19th century when it was being sold as street food. “Bottom-up approach”

To what extent did migrants to Costa Rica, notably Chinese, impact the perspective of rice as a component of a staple meal?

Like “La olla Podrida, “El Gallo Pinto”, is a national dish that is representative of all the nation’s citizens due to the accessibility and availability of the key ingredients to all classes of Costa Ricans.  It maintains a sense of practicality, rather the opulence as seen within French cuisine within the same era. This concept of a national dish and what it symbolises to the Costa Ricans, have strong correlations to Spanish society during the same time period.

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The reading, “El Gallo Pinto”, focuses on the social, economic, historical and national importance of rice and beans in the context of Costa Rica. The reading addresses the symbolic importance, rather than the intrinsic significance, of rice and beans within Costa Rican culture. The dish, el gallo pinto, is viewed as a staple within Costa rican households and fulfils the basic norms of courtesy and hospitality. Rice had been cultivated in Costa Rica since the 16th century, but did not become a staple within the Costa Rican until the late 19th century.In 1903 the first Costa Rican cookbook was published Juana Ramirez Carrera. It contained 800 recipes but It did NOT contain the recipe for el gallo pinto!- N/AStereotypically, rice and beans is considered a staple dish within Spanish cuisine. Thus, it is interesting to learn that rice in particular only rose in popularity in the 19th century when it was being sold as street food. “Bottom-up approach”To what extent did migrants to Costa Rica, notably Chinese, impact the perspective of rice as a component of a staple meal?Like “La olla Podrida, “El Gallo Pinto”, is a national dish that is representative of all the nation’s citizens due to the accessibility and availability of the key ingredients to all classes of Costa Ricans.  It maintains a sense of practicality, rather the opulence as seen within French cuisine within the same era. This concept of a national dish and what it symbolises to the Costa Ricans, have strong correlations to Spanish society during the same time period.

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The reading, “El Gallo Pinto”, focuses on the social, economic, historical and national importance of rice and beans in the context of Costa Rica. The reading addresses the symbolic importance, rather than the intrinsic significance, of rice and beans within Costa Rican culture. The dish, el gallo pinto, is viewed as a staple within Costa rican households and fulfils the basic norms of courtesy and hospitality. Rice had been cultivated in Costa Rica since the 16th century, but did not become a staple within the Costa Rican until the late 19th century.In 1903 the first Costa Rican cookbook was published Juana Ramirez Carrera. It contained 800 recipes but It did NOT contain the recipe for el gallo pinto!- N/AStereotypically, rice and beans is considered a staple dish within Spanish cuisine. Thus, it is interesting to learn that rice in particular only rose in popularity in the 19th century when it was being sold as street food. “Bottom-up approach”To what extent did migrants to Costa Rica, notably Chinese, impact the perspective of rice as a component of a staple meal?Like “La olla Podrida, “El Gallo Pinto”, is a national dish that is representative of all the nation’s citizens due to the accessibility and availability of the key ingredients to all classes of Costa Ricans.  It maintains a sense of practicality, rather the opulence as seen within French cuisine within the same era. This concept of a national dish and what it symbolises to the Costa Ricans, have strong correlations to Spanish society during the same time period.

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New cookbooks encouraged and perpetuated Anderson's "imagined community", connecting the middle class housewives with recipes that were accessible to each and every one of them, thus, effectively creating a widespread food culture, and therefore a national food identity.

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It is national dish heavily influenced by migration. Only among the black peons working in fruit companies was both the combination of rice and beans widely eaten together. A popular Caribbean dish is rice, beans and coconut milk. Substitute the coconut milk for chilli and you have Gallo pinto.

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Ferguson says that cuisine and form bring together regions and nation
, left & right, old and new. Almost as an evolution of an ideology. It raises an interesting question about Australia and why we do not have a national cusine

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Collective imaginary defines El Gallo Pinto as a national dish but was not acknowledged as such in any official legislation.

Spains most popular newspaper, La Nación, reported that 92% of Puerto Ricans identified El Gallo Pinto as "being Tico" (2006)

Rice and beans have become the common foundation of various Latin American countries including Nicaragua that claims the El Gallo as it's national dish as well (under the same name!).
It is the rituals and forms of preparation and serving that vary from country to country.

At the end of the 19th century, the national dish was considered to be the indigenous black bean served with tortillas - until rice became more affordable and less foreign, thus spreading its consumption to all social classes.

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Recipes are not just about producing foods, they are stories of identity, family and tradition. Not only do books give food and identity and place of origin but allow that to be spread throughout the world.

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- Recipes indicate identity
- Cuisine and food are tied to place even in a modern society where food can be transported/flown great distances
- Indigenous cuisine these days promotes tourism and exports
- Culinary countries need to balance the traditional with the modern (innovation)
- The further away from a place you are the more likely you are to associate a dish more broadly (country vs region)

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El Gallo Pinto - Rice and Black Beans (Group 5) 

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El Gallo Pinto - Rice and Black Beans (Group 5) 

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* Costa Rica created complex symbols to distinguish them from other nations - national identity - flag, emblem, national anthem, tree, bird, etc.
* Gallo Pinto  - embraced as a national dish in Costa Rica

* Dish signifies workers filling their daily food/energy requirements
* Circumstances of the Great Depression (1930s) led to middle class acceptance of the simple dish - growth in demand for rice and beans

* The dish was so popular in rural and urban households (nutritional and inexpensive) led to recognition as a national dish.

* Today, offering a dish of rice and beans to a house guest in Costa Rica fulfils norms of hospitality and courtesy. Adding meat or other condiments completes the banquet and the host is considered more gracious

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Why did the textualization of culinary practices in India occur so late in comparison to other complex civilisation?
Food was linked with social and moral status of the individual/group
Food believed to create relationship b/w men + gods, and b/w men themselves
Food = moral + medical + spiritual
BUT!
Gastronomic issues (eating) = important
Culinary issues (cooking) = not important
Most of the cooking process is not observed/is missing in traditional thinking
Hindu culinary traditions --> pass on orally, domestically + regionally
--> It was informal, fragmented and minor in importance
NO GOOD FOR DEVELOPING WRITTEN RECIPES!

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https://www.jamieoliver.com/recipes/eggs-recipes/gallo-pinto/

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The position of women in a Hindu-Indian society and the social pressures placed on women
1. Responsible for earning part of the household income
2. Cater for their families, relatives + friends
New cookbooks succeeded because it targeted middle-class housewives who needed recipes that were useful, efficient and economic.
E.g. How to work with leftovers (which was considered to carry the risk of moral degradation, biological contamination and loss of status)
E.g. Cookbook "Tasty Dishes from Waste Items"

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Pampille truly believed “culinary consciousness” as a “tradition defender” in France. She collected different dishes across class and region, thus made “the local” became “the national.”

-       “Cuisine and food, it would seem, whatever the form, bring together regions and nation, left and right, old and new. The “natural” culinary supremacy of France is one of those ideological constructs that have become so much a part of our lives that we take them for granted.”

-       Food in France > French food. This national identity exists outside of history and other boundaries. “The hegemonic, absolutely conventional culinary discourse constructs a nation without history, without politics, a nation rooted in terroir and tradition.”

Culinary Nationalism has become even more visible. Now we associate the food with the nation rather than the region.

“Authenticity” > dilemma of national identity: Does authenticity mean tradition?

Contrast with Pampille’s insistence on defending tradition: “Culinary countries must balance innovation and tradition, individual creativity and time-honored conventions, the singular and the collective.”

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Cookbooks highlight the link between a meal and its place of origin. Through cookbooks we learn about the food culture of that place.
Authenticity is a subjective concept.

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Rice and beans are means to validate existing social relations, be it at home, migrants or staples sold in the markets.

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Regional cuisines play important role and the national cuisine does not seek to hide its regional ethical roots as India is a country that values their tradition and customs.
Cookbooks represent the culinary expression of a dynamic of cultural formation. They allow women to explore tastes of another , represent their group to another and establish a modern way of sharing. Cultural tales such as Hindu festivals and customs, guides for dining etiquette and diversity in culinary process, budgeting grocery expenses and structure of domestic ideologies were included.
Exchange of recipes leads to controlled interethnic dining, loosening social classes' boundaries and refined culinary stereotypes of the other.
The difference still exists among different audiences for every cookbook, as it marked the stigma for the social classes and the caste system.

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Writer's opinion:
1. Recipe is the primary indicator of identity.
2. Essence of culinary countries exists in unpretentious, familiar dishes in ordinary kitchens.
3. National culinary become part of the construction of national identity.

Culinary Nationalism today:
1. traditional geographical and political boundaries habe been abolished by modern transpotation and technological innovation.
2. Countries must balance tradition and innovation.
3. Reason why French cuisine holds its reputation around the world: structure  a system.
4. Gastronmy makes connection between the culinary places and the varied world of food.

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The Plebeian dish of Black beans and rice turned into a symbol of Costa Rican national Identity- the combination was introduced by Afro-Caribbean migrant workers

Beans have been a staple in Central America since Pre-Hispanic times

Rice planted C16th, became significant C19th

The Great Depression helped gallo pinto gain middle class acceptance

Lower class foods became central to national identities

All Latin american countries have a common heritage with frijoles- beans, but rice was only introduced during the early days of the Spanish conquest- before only maize/ tortillas

Gallo Pinto (signified a hybrid cultural expression) was only available to those of high status- 1st 3 decades of C20th= social and gastronomical distinction- because of some scarcity

Decline in food supply- C19th= imports of rice, beans, maize were required

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- Recipes are a primary indicator of identity, and they point toward practice and tradition.
- Cook books tie food to place.
- Pampille is an emblematic figure, perceiving herself as a
defender of tradition under siege in a rapidly modernizing
world.
- Pampille's work casts women as the guardians of  traditional culinary practices.
- Today, national cuisines are more recognised than regional cuisines

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Culinary Nationalism
-cook books and recipes tie food to place more than the actual dishes do bc one can be reading unlimited amount but his stomach has a boarder.
-Pampille as a female, link the image of female to a defender of tradition by recording family&friends' recipes, instead of being "innovation"
-She also assigns location along with class towards dishes by emphasizing the important link between specific region and ingredients.

Culinary Nationalism Today
-with increasing communication and the development of tech, world are tight tgt and more cuisines come to us
-nation, rather than region has become more recognised by ppl
-infused cuisine makes its way in modern dining, people argueing what is authentic and what is not (is a california roll a legit kinda sushi?)
-french cuisine and cooking style remains top notch, still considered as a high standard and the way to train new chef
-Bocuse d’Or represents a new era of cooking competition

Le Grand Chef

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Pampille aka Marthe Allard Daudet
- preserving France's tradition through the rapid modernisation
-  recorded what friends and acquaintances have passed on and what she herself has observed
- aim to define France through its cuisine, expanding from the extravagant creations of the celebrate (male) chefs of modern restaurants
- the local becomes the national

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- restructured the kitchen (brought in a hierarchy)
- implemented scientific methodology in recipes
- print media -> democratisation of recipes/accessible to everyone

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- The gendered issues relate to the hierarchy mentioned in Video C- how men were considered above women, similar to an executive vs sous chef
- Reading A talks about the creativity, similar to how men are considered to be the innovative ones compared to women who are more 'traditional'
- Natalija

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- The role of women in constructing a national cuisine (cuisinière républicaine)
-reforms to culinary guilds
-public cooks amid the revolution
-gender and domestic service
-post revolutionary gender ideals

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- Dominance of males over females in the kitchen
- Republicanism
- Potatoes
- Economy = poor
- Cooks (women) vs Chefs (men)

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- by introducing 'scientific principles', for example exact measurements, ingredients and a method, Escoffier created the first recipes ie. He ''codifies the cuisine''
- by writing these recipes down, Escoffier made them accessible to everyone. For this reason Escoffier is seen as the person who ''democratized access to French cuisine'' - Nathan Myhrvold (author)

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He also had a theatrical background which allowed better expression of his sensual and gastronomic style. His guide to the astronomic arts allowed the bourgeois to experience haute cuisine.

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The difficult political and social situation in 18th and 19th century France forced cooking styles to become as low-cost as possible.

The cookbook, “La cuisinière Républicaine” was allegedly authored by a woman. The book equated republican virtue with thrift and instructed female citizens in how to do their political duty (for e.g keeping costs down) by cooking potatoes (cheap staple food). As such, women became the silent advocates for low-cost cooking.

Potatoes became a substantive food to consume during times of shortage. The recipes in the aforementioned cookbook discouraged extravagance in favour of simplicity, a premise facilitated by the frugal nature of potatoes.

In cuisine, masculinity connoted aristocracy and luxury, while femininity symbolised simplicity and economy.

By the end of the Revolution, female cooks signified the deprivation of the war years more than they represented the simple, natural and republican cuisine of the early 1790s

Needlework and decorative arts were identified as trades suited to women however by 1776 culinary trades throughout France made culinary opportunities and masterships available to women.

Between 1789 and 1805, nine cookbook titles were published, most of which stressed economy to a greater degree than had any publications of the previous decade.

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The publication 'La cuisinière républicaine' represents a cultural shift from a male dominance in the preparation of french cusine to a more understated female participation.

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Claw at the table by Cathy Kaufman can be broken into two sections. Firstly about Grimod's life story, how his family and struggles have shaped him in adulthood. This provides an insight into why his humour is so dark. The second part of the writing explains how his book the Almanach influenced French dining and cusine. While working, Grimod notices the lack of knowledge French have about food and how unwisely they spend their money. Seeing this Grimod decides, "what the public really needed was a reliable guide
to the gastronomic arts, if only to help them spend their money wisely while maintaining
the standards of haute cuisine..."

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The Old Regime (Ancient Regime) based on idea of elite male chef

Revolutionary - we see female cooks  - Republicanism (although, women still predominantly in seen only in private kitchens, as public kitchens, restaurants, etc remained male-dominated)

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Grimod was clearly a unique character in the culinary scene. This was probably due to his dysfunctional upbringing and deformity. However his influence on French cuisine was one that cannot be dined. His book Almanach played a role in changing the way the French dined. He wanted the chefs to prepare the meals fully so waiters did not have a large role, removing them from the conversation at the dining table.

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Escoffier brought an order and methodology to French cooking that was previously inexistent. From implementing a hierarchy within industrial kitchens, to reforming the way in which French people approach cooking, focusing on precise measurements that would allow for consistent outcomes. This is interesting to me because it is a more scientific approach, and is somewhat removed from the traditional home-cooking experience (e.g. Grandmother's recipe -> just add a bit of this and that/add as much flour as needed -> not specific at all, more to do with feeling and allows for a more improvised approach). Which produces the best results? Is consistency better than spontaneity?
It also makes me wonder if French cooking has been transformed because of Escoffier's influence, that is, if recipes have become more intricate due to his introduction of scientific elements?

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"Where you have your grandmother saying, 'Oh just put a pinch of this and a pinch of that', Escoffier was the one who would go, 'It's a quarter teaspoon'."
From my knowledge of French cuisine, particularly in the realm of pastry and desserts, I have known recipes to very precise without little room for error - macarons, for an example. Ingredients need to measured out to the gram, the consistency of the batter has to be perfect in order to yield a good cookie, and some people even count the amount of folds they make to achieve the right consistency. French pastry cooking is often viewed as the most difficult culinary practice. I wonder if this is a product of Escoffier's more precise recipe system...

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"Escoffier was the first one to just canonize everything, and to put down on paper everything that there was in cooking. Before him, there were no recipes."

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A brief biography of Grimod de la Reynière from his infancy to the dining table.

-       Grimod was born with deformed hands.

-       The funeral supper was hosted.

-       Travelling around France (and Europe) as a salesman

-       Writing food reviews including purveyors, restaurants

-       The Almanach got published.

How Grimod influenced the system of modern French cuisine.

-       The way in which French meals served was formatted by Grimod in order to “allow uncensored discussion of the foods.”

-       Some terms related to food reviewer did not mean the same back to the old times.

What were the purpose of the funeral supper and all those controversial entertainments? To disgrace? Was it disrespected for food as a food critic or a bon vivant?

The presentation of the funeral supper Grimod hosted somehow reminds me of the manner and the hierarchy in Chinese dining table. For an instant, the elders should sit at the place far from the door to showcase the respect while the host should sit next to the elders. Also, Grimod used food to express his personal feelings, I believe personal emotions can be shown in the dishes, whether the way it got cooked or how it tasted like.

Gastronomic criticism or food criticism is very common nowadays with the rapid development of the Internet and smart phones. But what do people prefer? Some “authorities” like food critics and famous chefs or just normal people commenting on Zomato? Does a “reliable guide to the gastronomic arts” still exist nowadays?

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This article can be divided into basically two parts: his life story and how he influenced French food culture.
He was born in a dysfunctional family and the right hand 'looked like a pincer'. His father even dropped 'de' from Grimod's birth certificate and made him a bastard under French law. His sad and  tragic childhood becomes the source of part of his character: dark sense of humour.

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This collection of recipes demonstrates the politicisation of food culture - its purpose was to "instruct good citoyennes in how to do their political duty by cooking potatoes". The book only had potato recipes.

Other points:

No author but male editor

Potato seen as symbol of new economic order/agricultural regime - frugality, healthfulness

"daily chores... held deeper political import"

Notion of 'Republican cooking' - food as a means of constructing a national identity during a time of change

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How was Escoffier's system of measurement perceived at the time, especially by the older French generation?

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During French revolution, texts argued food consumption needed to move away from extravagant cooking targeted at elites--->  more simple and economic food aimed at the public (e.g. potato). Texts (with male voices), argued women could  make this change (women= traditional and economic).  However, this did not translate in revolutionary reforms. Reinforces idea of women= cooks and men= chefs  

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During French revolution, texts argued food consumption needed to move away from extravagant cooking targeted at elites--->  more simple and economic food aimed at the public (e.g. potato). Texts (with male voices), argued women could  make this change (women= traditional and economic).  However, this did not translate in revolutionary reforms. Reinforces idea of women= cooks and men= chefs  

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Saying that women are tradition cooks and men are innovative is touching on the whole perception of gendered issues and the expectations of the role as a man vs woman

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The contributions of Auguste Escoffier to French cuisine + modern cuisine

"Father of modern cuisine"
Author of "Le Guide Culinaire"
Recording recipes in print --> democratised, made French cuisine accessible to anyone
Incorporated a scientific method of measurement into cooking
A systematic method of cooking (like a set of rules) which allows the recipes to be replicated at any time
Created "Brigade de cuisine" --> a system of hierarchy to organise kitchen staff
Allowed for the mass production of food
"Regularity" --> each staff allocated to a position, a task and a direct leader to report to

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In the Almanach Grimod provided a guide to gastronomy , as well as reviews of local restaurants. Grimod encouraged revolutionary ideas of dining, like 'a la russe' service.

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'Gastronomic meal of the French' UNESCO http://www.unesco.org/culture/ich/en/RL/gastronomic-meal-of-the-french-00437

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Gastronomic meal of the French - intangible heritage - Culture Sector - UNESCO

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Website of the Convention for the Safeguarding of the Intangible Cultural Heritage

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Gollner, A. 'The New Nouvelle Cuisine' New York Times

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Steinberger, M. 'Can anyone save French food?' New York Times

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Roser I Puig, M. 'What's cooking in Catalonia?'

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Official Spanish Tourism campaign http://www.spain.info

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Tourism in Spain |Tourist information about Spain | spain.info USA

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Tourist information in Spain: art, culture, museums, monuments, beaches, cities, parties, tours, cuisine and nature in Spain | spain.info USA

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The Catalan Generalitat website http://www.catalunya.com/what-to-do/savour/gastronomy-with-a-past-with-the-cuisine-associations

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Appadurai, A. 'How to make a national cuisine: Cookbooks in contemporary India'

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Vega Jimenez, P. 'El Gallo pinto: Afro-Caribbean rice and beans conquer the Costa Rican national'

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'The Birth of the Recipe' National Geographic https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=leamWS368L8

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The Birth of the Recipe | National Geographic

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Davis, J. 'To make a revolutionary cuisine: Gender and politics in French kitchens 1789–1815', pp. 301-310 only

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