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See link to H&S document

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See link to H&S document

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See Bespoke Tailoring folder

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See Bespoke Tailoring folder

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*Also in reflective journal on notes page

- stretch fabrics, such as jersey/knitted
- sheer and fine fabrics, such as georgette, silk, chiffon
- printed fabrics, such as striped fabric
- speciality weave fabrics, such as plaid, check, jacquard
- fabrics which are decorated with beading, sequins etc
- fabrics with a pile or nap, such as velvet, corduroy

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Up to two people are needed in order to load the roll of fabric onto a spreader.

One person is then responsible for spreading the fabric over a large table and checking for accuracy - by matching the selvedges and assuring that the fabric lies flat before spreading the next layer.

See video below:

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a) Manual:

For a manual lay process, fabric is loaded onto a spreader and is then moved up and down the length of the table by the person responsible.

Each time the fabric is spread along the length of the table the fabric is checked to assure it is accurate (selvedges match and the fabric lies flat).

b) CAD/CAM:

For CAD/CAM fabric laying, the roll of fabric is loaded onto an automated machine which spreads the fabric along the table. This process is can be faster than manual spreading. The person responsible for controlling the machine will check the fabric as it's spread to assure the fabric is lying flat.

See video below:

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Loading and starting spreading with a Gerber spreader XLs50

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a) stretch:

First identify whether the fabric is 2-way stretch or 4-way stretch. If it is 2-way stretch the fabric will curl along the edges (4-way stretch will lie flat).

2-way stretch fabric:
Must make sure that the fabric lays parallel to the selvedge, because the fabric is has more stretch in one direction than the other. For this you could use
- lengthwise fold
- double fold

4-way stretch:
The stretch is even therefore you are able to use
- lengthwise fold
- double fold
- crosswise fold
depending on your pattern pieces.

b) velvet

When cutting from velvet, you must first determine the direction of the pile. Mark on the back of the fabric which direction this is going in. Pattern pieces must be cut so that the pile is going in the same direction. Therefore you must either use
- lengthwise fold
OR
- crosswise fold
if the pattern pieces are too large for a lengthwise fold, fold the fabric crosswise (to the desired amount to incorporate the pattern pieces) and then cut across. This top layer must then be turned around so that the directional arrows of the pile are facing the same way.

c) check

First you must determine what kind of check the fabric is, whether it's uneven or even. To do this fold the plaid diagonally through the centre of a repeat. A repeat is one complete, four-sided design in the fabric. An even plaid has coloured lines and spaces that are the same in both the lengthwise and crosswise directions. An uneven plaid has lines and spaces that will not match in either one or both directions. See photo.

even plaid:
- lengthwise fold
- crosswise fold
- double fold

uneven plaid:
- must be cut as a single layer

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For this exercise, we determined the fabric to be 2-way stretch. Therefore we chose to fold the fabric lengthwise, however it was clear that we would be able to save a large amount of fabric if we partially folded it. As the fabric is stretchy it does not need pinning.

The patterns were then positioned, measuring from the selvedge to the grain line.

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First we marked on the wrong side which direction the pile was. Then we chose a lengthwise fold for our pattern pieces. We considered a few different positions before we were happy with the layout that was most economical. Then we measured from the selvedge to the grain lines to assure they were laid accurately.

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For this exercise we determined the  fabric to be an uneven plaid. Therefore we must position the pattern pieces on a single layer of fabric. Plaids must be matched at seam lines to form a continuous design around the body. To match plaids, pattern pieces need to be aligned on the fabric. The important thing to remember when matching plaids is to match stitching lines rather than cutting lines.
- Place the pattern on the fabric and mark the position of the stripes on the pattern.
- Mark the check pattern onto adjoining pattern pieces and match up on the seam line, not the cutting line
- Mark stitching lines on your pattern tissue in a few kay places. Simply measure in from the cutting 5/8 inch and draw a stitching line. Then line up corresponding pieces on the same colour bars of the plaid.
- Try and match visual focal points on garments, such as centre front and back, at side seams and the front part of set-in sleeves. Match the back of the collar to the centre back.

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Spec sheets help to produce accurate samples, which improves turnaround time and simplifies communication during all stages of manufacturing and quality control. Spec sheets include detailed technical diagrams, construction notes, finished garment measurements, fabric yields and material and trim details.

See below for example:

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Visual examples given in 3.4

There are particular thing so to consider before applying a lay plan. These are:
- Determine tolerance levels for seams
-  Placements of style details / trims
- Tolerance levels for finished sizes
- Hem width
- Thread direction
- Pattern direction
- Nap
- How to minimise wastage when placing the pattern pieces

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Example of cloth fall out, found on 4 way stretch jersey: